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BERTRAM

Tire/ Rim Question

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Question 1. 

     I have 2 B61s and I have been switching to tubeless radials and rims as I find them. What can I do with the old tube tires and split rims? Is there any market for them? They have good tread and look period correct on an old truck. I also have 2 Goodyear tube type 10-20 radials.IMG_2192.thumb.JPG.bf2f6a49ca6c8dfe9bed9d16b84d69ff.JPGIMG_2193.thumb.JPG.978bc110bba1a528385832999cd07c02.JPG Or do I just check them in the dumpster?

Question 2.

     One of the rims on the rear of my wrecker spins on the rim. Due to my less that perfect driving skills, I popped the clutch and the rear outer rim spun past the little bumps that are supposed to stop that and broke off the valve stem. I got the valve replaced and tightened everything back up. A few months later the same thing happened. This time it happened starting up normally. Could there be something wrong with the rim and/ or clamps? I tightened them by hand with a breaker bar.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

IMG_2191.JPG

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Could be a combination of worn spoke, or clamps, the old school remedy was a small spacer that went with the original wheel spacer, think i still have a couple hanging in my garage.   terry:D

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If those rims were here in Ohio, I would buy them. I want to run 20's on my truck but my rims are too rusty. I would think you could sell them on Craigslist.

On your spinner, do the wedges tighten all the way down to where they touch the hub? If so, you've got worn parts. There should be daylight between the hub and the wedge when the nuts are tight.

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The spacer between the rims also gets worn, over tightened, and smushed skinnier.     If that happens the wedge will bottom out and and not properly clamp the wheels tight.      My personal guess is start by checking the spacer.   Maybe measure both sides see if the  one side is narrower.  

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yup, some of these B's still have the original spacers. id start with replacing the spacer, then maybe takin a little off the heel of the wedge with an angle grinder if you have to. you want the angle part of the wedge to hit before the heel bottoms out.

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Thanks for the advice guys. I'm pretty sure the clamps are bottomed out. I'll take a closer look this weekend. Too bad, the nice powder coated rims are all scratched up now.

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What we do with duel Wobbly, Spider, Spoke Wheels

Not sure wot U do with the steers other than braze n up the spoke to add a bit of meat

 

wheelspacersi.jpg

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measure the spacer to. most Macks except the ones that came with true 24 inch rubber, had 3 5/8's spacers from the factory

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Umm... I'm no expert on split wheels, clamps, and spoke hubs, but since there are no moving parts to wear, welding a 1/4" rod to the spacer doesn't seem like the way fix something that should not be happening. If something weakens from fatigue after 50,000 miles it probably should be replaced/repaired. Maybe that's the case with the spacer(s) getting... crushed??? But it seems like if something fits correctly after being fully seated, (and isn't a wear item) the wheels or hubs or clamps or... something ??? is weakened and stretching (studs, clamps), getting crushed (weakened spacer) or flexing ??? 

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KeithS

RE: clamps, and spoke hubs, but since there are no moving parts to wear

Sorry to disagree 

but all them bits wear a tuch ovr time.... eye'm talking older trucks th@ have many wheel changes

we have many wheels and sum have had a 1/4 to 3/8 rod welded on wheel spacer

Butt there again ............. eye bin playn with truck wheels (spider/spoke, Wobbly wheels) for more than 60 years

so guess all new parts could solve the problem 

cya

§wishy

 

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