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possibly a bad oil cooler?


Keffer inc

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Sending an oil sample out soon, the oil started to get a little grey streaks in the oil. I checked the coolant by removing the filter and it looks normal. So it looks like I facing an in-frame engine rebuild for $3,500 doing it myself. But there could be a chance its only the air compressor. Whats a way to test the compressor? I figured maybe drop the oil pan and pressure the cooling system and check both, the air compressor and sleeves at the same time?

The truck runs normal, same amount of power, but can condensation over time make the oil turn grey over time of constant condensation? Thanks for the input.

And the truck is run 400 to 600 miles every work day (mon-fri)

What is the difference in an in-frame rebuild vs an overhaul? (besides overhaul is outside the truck) what parts would come in addition to an in-frame kit?

Edited by Keffer inc
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Are you loosing much water? We have had some seep out of the big pipe plugs on top of the heads on the right side under the rocker arm, i think there are 2 in each head. Pull valve covers and look at them if leaking they will have a crusted stuff built up around them. Also if you have the long round oil cooler we had one we pulled the oil cooler and pressured check it and it showed good. We pulled the oil pan and pressured ck for sleeves leaking and showed nothing leaking. finally we pulled the oil cooler and pressured ck it again and took a rubber hammer and hit it a few times and it show bubbles around the oring end. We replaced it and it corrected the problem, i think after the truck was turned off the radiator still had pressure on it for a while and only leaked water in to oil. This truck would only loose a quart of water on a 1000 mile trip but would steam out overboard breather and have a grey milkshake on oil cap, but we also have had them leak around sleeves too. Good Luck

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dropping the pan sounds good to me , it still could be a oil cooler but as stated before it generally goes both ways , but can only leak coolant also the comp could do this as well as a liner or head, so instead of chasing ghosts I would pull the pan and if necessary rocker box covers. the inframe vs. overhaul is front and rear seals, cam, front and rear housings gaskets every thing else can be done with out pulling the eng. or rad. but if you don't find that leak soon you will be doing a overhaul because the crank will spin a bearing and that generally requires crank removal to remachine ! $$$$$$ better find your leak.

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Are you loosing much water? We have had some seep out of the big pipe plugs on top of the heads on the right side under the rocker arm, i think there are 2 in each head. Pull valve covers and look at them if leaking they will have a crusted stuff built up around them. Also if you have the long round oil cooler we had one we pulled the oil cooler and pressured check it and it showed good. We pulled the oil pan and pressured ck for sleeves leaking and showed nothing leaking. finally we pulled the oil cooler and pressured ck it again and took a rubber hammer and hit it a few times and it show bubbles around the oring end. We replaced it and it corrected the problem, i think after the truck was turned off the radiator still had pressure on it for a while and only leaked water in to oil. This truck would only loose a quart of water on a 1000 mile trip but would steam out overboard breather and have a grey milkshake on oil cap, but we also have had them leak around sleeves too. Good Luck

I figured replacing smaller stuff and work my way up. Your story makes me feel a little more comfortable about trying it. That with a fresh oil change, hopefully that does it. The oil condition gets a tiny streak of grey once and a while, then goes away. Did that seem to be your case too?

I recently did change my valve cover gaskets on both heads, and didn't see nothing strange. (I was looking to)

I loose about the same amount of water too, but that is also some external leaks too. I leak a tiny bit under me water pump pulley.

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