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I didn't really inspect those, I kinda just gave up on it, put the truck away and hopped on the motorcycle LOL!! I'll make sure my gauges are okay, the fittings/schraders are tight. It has to be something stupid. It takes about an hour for it to start showing a real change in the needle. I thought maybe I'll just put a can of leak detector and just charge it up and see how it works. At this time I just want to see it work. Maybe it will hold a charge?

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Find someone with an electronic Freon sniffer, evacuate your system with your pump, put one can of R134a in, and use the sniffer. The Freon is heavier than air so check each fitting by starting at the bottom of it. You could even have a leak in the evaporator coil or condenser. Check the evaporator by sniffing at the condensate drain. Could even be at a factory crimped fitting line or the compressor itself.

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Just happen to have a buddy stop over this past weekend and he told me he had a sniffer somewhere. Might have to have him dig it up? I think I will just charge it up this weekend(if I have time) and see how it holds. Might put a can of dye in it just as a "Might help" kinda thing.

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Well, I did it. Yesterday I charged the a/c. I pulled it down for about 45 minutes and then put a spot of dye in the line and hooked up my tank of 134a. It WORKS!! Pretty chilly actually. It was only about 60 degrees in the cab to start with, I got it down to 48* with the air running. I'll be curious to see how it handles 90* sun and running down the highway. I'm thinking I need to seal the doors up a bit.

Question: Can I use R model door rubbers in a B model groove? Mine are shot and dried and missing, etc. Likely why the doors are drafty doing down the road.

My low buck sniffer also showed up, so I can check if I do have leaks. Got it from Amazon for $20, the feedback was pretty good on it. Going to play with it on my pickup and see why it leaks down within a few weeks.

Little bit of rewiring had to be down on a/c. I had the fan for the condensor wired to come on with unit. Well, what I found out was it only came on with the compressor. It cycled on/off and would not cool it much. I had to pull another wire back through the loom I installed, dismantle the a/c unit and find the power wire going to the thermo switch for compressor. Hooked to the hot side inside of switched side. Now fan comes on and stays on as long as the unit is "on"(any fan speed). They don't really give you any insight in the instructions for wiring and it would be nice if they had a lead out with the rest of the wiring to just hook to. They give you a fan and no place to wire it correctly(unlike how I had it the first time). Guess I'm asking too much?

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I am pretty sure it wood the R door seal is sticky side 3m on a D shape seal. I bought from Jim Carter Chevrolet the actual same type of seal that was on it apparently GM used the same style on the truck in the 50s also, only thing you have to use adheasive to secure it. If you check my old posts I have the part number/invoice posted from them.

They have 10% off if you buy online in April the code is SP15., http://www.oldchevytrucks.com/ you could also check LMC and Chevy Truck parts of America for pricing on the seal once you locate the part number.

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I have used the D shaped hollow R model door rubber in a B model Larry. it works. does make the door close a little differently than the solid foam core that was originally in there. most restoration places sell the foam core. its 3/4 wide by 1/2 thick I believe.

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Well, with the temp at 78* Sunday, I had some work to do in the garage. I got the race car put back together and loaded back up. The truck was still a mess from last weekend and the birds took their toll on it sitting outside all last week. I gave it a much needed bath and with the temp inside the cab at 90* sitting in the sun I thought I would try the a/c out again. I put a thermometer inside the cab and started the a/c. First think I noticed was the belt was slipping(squeaking) with clutch engaged). I tightened it a touch and things went back to good. I pulled the idle up to about 800 rpm and let it run for awhile while I washed it.

I checked the temp inside the cab and it was down to 70*. Hmmm, that's better. I shut the truck off and finished washing it. I then decided to take it for a quick spin in the country to run it up tto 55 mph and see how it worked. I put 25 miles on it, the temp inside the bunk was down to 65* and I had it on low. I think it will work just fine come warmer weather and though it might not freeze me out it will surely be nice on muggy evenings coming home from a day at the track.

Also having the windows closed keeps the noise level down inside the truck.....and that is a good thing anymore.

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No leaks yet? My bet was the vacuum pump itself was the leaker.

Really nice work. I'm always skeptical of folks who want to use an old truck to move their other old stuff around. Most of them are too cold, too hot, too small, and ride like a stone. It takes someone like you to make it civilized enough to be comfortable for the long haul.

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Yup, still holding good pressure. Put the gauges back on it yesterday just to see. I agree, I pulled/reinstalled the schrader valve from the input hose attachment point on gauges and that seemed to help. I put a touch of PAG oil on it also to lubricate the seals.

I also pulled the system apart on my daily pickup. It has leaked down for the last 5+ yrs since I put a new compressor/hoses on it. I think I found the bad o ring, so replaced it and charged it. Will be happy to see if it holds up like it should.

That cheapo HF air/vacuum pump seems to work just fine. Though it is kinda rough on the compressor for the near 1 hr I run it. I have a 6hp/60 gal that keeps up overall, but does run a lot trying. The pump is kinda noisy, only as it boils the water out, it gets to whistling like a tea kettle!! A really LOUD tea kettle. But for $9 I can't complain.

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