joes mack Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 i have been trying to get the brakes fixed on our ford f700 fire truck for almost a week it has a new master cyl not rebuilt i have bled ever bleeder screw on the truck and still getting air in the system and still have to pump the brakes a couple times to get a good pedal. you can hold the pedal down and it does not leak off but if you let it set for a couple mins the pedal will go back to the floor. this thing is driving me nuts and i need help figuring the brakes out on this thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joes mack Posted March 16, 2012 Author Share Posted March 16, 2012 come on some one has to have an idea on whats going on with this thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MidniteMechanic Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 Try vacuum bleeding them. They take ALOT of fluid to bleed all the air out. I spent a couple hours bleeding one wheel end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joes mack Posted March 16, 2012 Author Share Posted March 16, 2012 we put 3 quarts of fluid through it today and still cant get it. how do you do the vacume bleeding thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
609albert Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 also you have to bleed in the correct rotation usually the shortest ones first (front then rear) the best way is with the vaccum pump a cheap one is about $30. and follow the instructions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joes mack Posted March 16, 2012 Author Share Posted March 16, 2012 ok thanks i know one thing this master cyl change has been one big pain in the butt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn Barrett Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 also you have to bleed in the correct rotation usually the shortest ones first (front then rear) the best way is with the vaccum pump a cheap one is about $30. and follow the instructionsThats backward....Start at the farthest corner in the rear and work to the closest to the master cylinder.Did you "bench bleed" before you put it on the truck?Also a fella I know suggested to me that you can top off the cylinder and let the bleeders open and let them "gravity bleed"....just dont let the master drain completely or you are screwed. The tedious nature of that scared me and I've never been in deep enough that I needed to try this to get results but he is a very reliable source. Mechanic for many years.I know that information is probably very disconcerting for you also but beside trying a new master cylinder....I cant imagine what would cause that problem considering all the time you spent on this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lmackattack Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 The mytee vaccume bleeder worked good on the cars I used it on. cheep tool and works great.If I recall I put vaccume on the master cyl thru the cap, put a hose on the farthest brake cyl and hang it in a bottle of fluid, crack open the nipple and the vaccume pulls in the fluid and moves the air into the top of the master cyl, shut the nipple and move to the next wheel.do this a few times and all the air is out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joes mack Posted March 16, 2012 Author Share Posted March 16, 2012 yea i bench bled the master cyl. ive done everthing that i know to do except crack the bleaders and let it gravity feed and of course i havent used a vac bleader on it ive changed the master cyl on everyone of our fluid brake trucks at one time or another and this one is the only one ive had trouble with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lmackattack Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 I had a car that was impossible to bleed with a helper. I bought the vaccume bleeder and had it done in less than an hr by myself Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joes mack Posted March 16, 2012 Author Share Posted March 16, 2012 where did you get it from Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olivetroad Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 Like they said, you need to get a power bleeder. Our local Napa carries them. They are simple to use and sure beat having two guys farting around with it for hours. On hard ones to bleed in the past, it has helped to drive it around the block a few times and then back in the shop for more bleeding. This sounds like a horror movie, all this bleeding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joes mack Posted March 16, 2012 Author Share Posted March 16, 2012 it has been a horror ive threatened to set fire to the fire truck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lmackattack Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 got it at napa or some other auto parts store they are fairly cheep $20-$30 for a standard model bleeder with all the attachments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joes mack Posted March 16, 2012 Author Share Posted March 16, 2012 ok thanks i guess i will try and get one sounds like the best option Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speweik Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 Did you bleed the booster first? On my 59 Chevy, you have to bleed the booster first, then go to the farthest point and work back to the booster- all with no vacuum (I.e. engine not running and no vacuum in booster). I also use and recommend the MityVac. Will save you countless hours. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olivetroad Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 it has been a horror ive threatened to set fire to the fire truckThat sounds like a new country song!"Joe set fire to the fire truck, he burned what he had been fixin" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fxfymn Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 When I did the 52 I thought that I had screwed something up as it took several hours and quite a bit of fluid to finally get them bled. Patience is a virtue!Make sure the booster is bled first, than do the wheels, furthest away from the master first. If you replaced any lines make sure there aren't any "high" spots in them that will trap air.I used a clear line attached to the bleeders so I could watch for air bubbles as the fluid drained into a collection jar. If the truck has dual wheel cylinders make sure you are bleeding both and start with the rear/bottom cylinder first on each wheel. And of course make sure your helper does not release the pedal until you have re-tightened the bleed screw. Quote Money, sex, and fire; everybody thinks everyone else is getting more than they are! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joes mack Posted March 17, 2012 Author Share Posted March 17, 2012 picked up the mighty vac bleeder just a few mins ago and will try to get this thing fixed tomorow. the truck has the dual cyls but the bleeders are on the bottom cyl we have never replaced them on this truck so it must be factory but most ive ever seen the bleeders were on top to get all of the air out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MidniteMechanic Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 I'm wondering if this thing has hydraulic release parking brakes. If so bleed the parking cylinder last. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joes mack Posted March 17, 2012 Author Share Posted March 17, 2012 no its got the park brake band on the back of the tranny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bulldogboy Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 That sounds like a new country song!"Joe set fire to the fire truck, he burned what he had been fixin"Kind of reminds me of the Bob Seger song, "Fire Lake"; you know "Joe's run off to Fire Lake". Hope that you don't need to burn it, I like oldFord fire trucks. bulldogboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joes mack Posted March 17, 2012 Author Share Posted March 17, 2012 i like it too. its still a good truck just rust in the front boxes of the fire body and a couple of jb weld places in the tank. its the first actual fire truck that our dept bought. my papaw paid $10,000 out of his own pocket for the dept to have a good truck back in 1985 when the dept was just getting on their feet and it has alot of value to the dept. when the brake issue is fixed we will still use the truck as needed until we can get it refurbished with a newer body and hopefully a alum tank. it might take a while to get the body and tank done as the local trade or vocational school is getting redy for summer break. but on the bright side all it will cost us is the material to have it done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olivetroad Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 on the bright side all it will cost us is the material to have it done.Plus you are helping boys learn a useful trade - I am a big fan of tech schools Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bulldogboy Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 Joe: Good idea having the local vocational school do the body work. I've seen that done on brush trucks. Good training for the students and a good deal for the department. bulldogboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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