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Bigen, Late getting back to you!! Left an e-mail. I've ran Salt River in a Semi more than once and it ain't no fun!! If you are out there sight-seeing, take the old road down Oak Creek Canyon. Then on the next trip, take the road from Prescott to Congress Junction!!! Only time the tires are lined up with the frame is as you come out of one corner and into the next!! Cottonwood to Jerome, to Cordes Junction??? WOW!!!! Packer

http://fschnell.net/WordPress/?p=1094 Cool!! Packer

Glad to see there is another 'Garth' in the system!!! We're few and far between!!!! There may be a reason!! LOL Packer (aka Garth)

Not only fast service but right at the top of the system!! Nice!! Packer

Good job to the both of you!!!! Packer

Sounds like an air volume issue. Kinked line, junk in the air line, maybe a stuck valve?? The brakes should all be working with very litle lag in them. VERY little! Look for a dent or kink that reduces air flow to the rear brakes. If flex hose is involved, you may have the inner lining peeling back and plugging the line. Are the linings wearing the same? Has this issue just started or has it been there awhile?? Air brakes are the best system trucks have. Electrical and mechanical are the ones that pop up the most. I think that you will find that the problem will be simple and easy to fix. Finding it may take a bit. Packer

Wait too long and you might "Look For" me driving it to Wyoming!!!! Nice looking truck! Packer

Thanks Guys, But at my age forgeting IS an option!!! laffin Packer

I've seen some 'Training Wheels' that bolt on to Goldwings - - - I'm sure you can get them for most anything. Might be good to help transfer weight outboard?? Kinda take a bit from the rear tire. Think of it as a tag axle!!!! Packer

Most tachs have a drive cable off of the pump. Looks like a speedometer cable. The inner cable gets twisted in two and the tach won't work! Pull the end off of the pump and grab the end and give a bit of a pull. If you get the thing to slide out, the drive cable is broken. You'll have a nasty looking end. Most parts stores have access to the cable and ends. Putting the thing back together requires a bit more. It has to go through the tach end first. The cable needs to be lubed as it goes in. I use Luberplate 105 to lube the cable. There is some lubes that are for speedo and tach cables. Use whatever but use something. And one more thing - - - make the cable about 1/4 to 3/8 inch shorter than what you took out. They stretch longer as they twist up. Packer

Are your differantal gears front load or top load???? And what are the ratios?? And don't scrap anything!!!! Someone somewhere will need it!! Packer

Yes!! Same system! Packer

Might try a cheap flasher first. They do go bad! Pull one out, push the new one in, and see if they work. There are two types. 1)The bi-metal type (VERY cheap, $2-3.00 last time I bought one) 2)Mechanical type. (Better, last longer, but more bucks - - - $25-30.00) Both are plug in, so the cheap one is the best for trouble-shooting. Once you put in in, just leave it. If it works, life is good. If not, use the old one for a spare and start looking deeper. Packer

If I remember right, the "B Model Store" has them. Packer And yes,If the king pins are tight, we can work a deal. Need a 60 gallon 'R' Model alum tank also. Got the straps, etc. just need the tank!

Try Watts Mack. I sent the only one I had to them and got some made. Barry made me a great deal! Don't know where they were made, but at one time they had some, so I'm sure more are availible. Give him some lead time and I'm sure Barry can fix you up. As I remember, the cost was about $70.00 a pair. I've been down this road, and this is all there is. When you put those new ones on, you'll have a bit of old Wyoming on your truck. Should make it run a little faster and ride a little smoother!!! Packer

Just hit the local 'Car Quest' store. They have a sale on air govenors for $10.00 each. I guess the last I bought were $12.00 each (or two fre $25.00) And all is forgiven!!!! Packer

Som times the parts get gummed in setting that will not let things work as they should. I have seen trucks that will do the same thing, and as you run them, they self-heal themselves. Last air gov I bought was $25.00 (or maybe 2 for $25.00)?? Anyway, pretty cheap! Rob hit it on the air gov. you might try resetting the gov and see if that gets you going. Replace first chance you get. Packer

Haven't been in trucks since 1980 BUT - - - At that time, there were several differant size fans in the system. NOTE: This was PRE- viscus fans!! Air fans were the big thing than. Woldn't have a clue where to look, but I'm sure a bigger non-factory fan is out there somewhere. Another thought. Viscus fans are betterfor milage and give you more useful horse power but for years the fan turned with the motor. Worked good and you only bought a fan when the truck was new. ZERO maintance! (But you ran one gear, or 300 RPM slower in the hills) These new fangled fans are something else - - - ya gotta be in the Gezzer class to even remember non-thermal/viscus type fans. Packer

Cutting a pop can to about a 2 inch strip, then wrapping with 'Duct Tape' (I only use name brands), then using hose clamps to secure the tape will make a 100,000 mile repair. Cover with a bit of old grease and a handful of road-side dirt will complete the project, and might even get you through an inspection. Than again, maybe it won't!!! LMAO Packer

Looks like I get to show off a couple!! My B-61 and B-73 with 'L' cab! Packer

I tuned up the first Mack I owned and drove it home. 1959 B-421 with "Baby Quad" with over-drive. Chained up the front axle, singled out the rear axle and got 5.5 mpg. This is at 6,000+ above sea level, and some hills. (Western hills!!!)LOL So - - - no load, no tire friction, tuned up (new plugs, plug wires, re-built carb, and clean oil-bath air cleaner),and an easy shot home (49 miles). Thought I did good!! East Coast has all that air, so you might do a bit better. Packer

I stand corrected!!!! Didn't factor in Mack vers 'Other' diff's. Knew it wouldn't last long but I did have to toss it out! Been too long since I worked in a truck shop and still have OLD views on things and my mind being what it is - - -!! LOL That Herb guy is sharp!! Packer

Most were frame bolts - - - just a funny story!! I've got a Snap On 3/4in torque wrench and 600 pounds is a lot of pulling!!! I hope that's all I ever need! Packer

I worked in the SLC, Utah Mack Dealership in the late '70's. Some of the bolts were 1900 foot pounds of torque. The shop foreman would pick the right number of guys and we would hang off of a cheater pipe. "Yep, that's 1900 fp - - - go back to work" I'm still laughtin'!!!!! Packer

I'm going to stick my neck out a mile and say that unless the power divider is locked in, gear ratios won't be the issue! IH at one time had a system that had two, 2 speed axles. The first up-shift was in one axle and the next shift was the second axle. Meaning the truck was running with two differant axle ratios at the same time. May not sound right - - - just how it was!! This is a good time for someone to stomp me into a mud hole - - - Have at it Guys!!!! I'm just pitching a differant train of thought and someone may, or may not, find fault!! This in maybe the reason an alias comes in handy on the forum!!!!! LMAO Packer