jakebrake86

When I rebuilt my first R model, it had 34k springs and I went back with new 38's. If memory serves me right, they torqued to 1650 lbs. I used a 4 to 1 multiplier and a 400 lb torque wrench, then put a big break over on it and put one last lick on it.

Happy birthday, good buddy!

That's so awesome. Thanks for sharing!

I've put a few hours on a 1066 rolling rice levees on my uncle's farm in Brinkley. Good old tractor, for sure!

I've got a 5" bull hauler tip on mine, mainly because it sticks out far enough to get past my dump bed. Doesn't look bad, in my opinion. If it were just a tractor I think I'd go with a curved tip.

I've pulled a complete 2 valve 350 and a 2 stick 6 speed together before. Wasn't bad at all. I used a rolling A frame and a heavy duty chain hoist.

Sure it's not a 237 and a 5 speed?

Yes sir, door seal weatherstrip is brand new. Hinges, latch, and striker plate are about two years old but they've vibrated since new.

Cool, I'll give that a try, Trent. Never thought about it. I guess I'd also need to make sure the cab floor is level when I do it. I'd sure like to have one of those door bending tools. I guess it would have to go on the inside of the door to work? I bet the wheel would need to go all the way across to keep from just pushing a dent in the panel?

Nice! I wish I had one of those. It'd be nice to be able to keep the greasy side clean!

Thanks for the replies, guys. It really seems to vibrate all the time when the truck is moving, but especially whenever you hit a bump. I do know that the man that owned the truck before me rolled it over once. Insurance paid for a new hood, two doors, an air cleaner, and one fuel tank. Maybe the cab got tweaked a little? You can't tell by looking at it.

Yeah, there's the two that are out in plain sight, then there's one way back in there that you need a socket and extension to get to. I've thought about taking everything apart and putting clear silicone everywhere that parts bolt together. I just hate to let it keep vibrating and ruin a brand new door.

I wonder how long it will be before they refuse registration for old trucks? I hope to still be running R models 40 years from now, but I doubt the federal tree hugging government lets that happen.

Ok, I've owned my RD for going on 5 years. When I got it, the driver's door vibrated pretty bad. I replaced latches, striker plates, door hinges, door seals, everything I could think of. The passenger side is as tight and vibration free as can be. Finally, the top half of the door split in two. I painted the truck last week and put a brand new Mack door on it. I even put Dynamat on the inside. Still vibrating. Of all the R and DM's I've owned or driven, I've always been able to adjust all the kinks out of the doors. I'm thinking about getting the driveshaft balanced or replacing the harmonic balancer, or both, but I can't figure out why it's just the driver's side? Has anyone else ever had this problem?

That's awful. I moved a lot of dirt back in the day with a double barrel TS 14. Great machines. I guess they blew it up for fun right before they scrapped it. What a waste.

Looks good! Forgive my ignorance, but what is a Riker muffler?

I usually paint my Daytons with gloss white Rustoleum. It holds up really well.

I'm not a big FL fan but they did make a great looking cabover.

Good deal, I'll know who to call when the old RS starts leaking. Thanks for sharing.

My cousin has a couple of '94 Freightshakers, I believe they're FL 80's, triaxled out with 17' 24 yard Rogers beds with 8LL's and 8.3 Cummins engines. Sounded to me like a lot of truck for such a little motor. I've driven them, and don't get me wrong, they're hideous and I don't like them, but those little 6C Cummins will carry the mail.

Yeah that was my dad. He came up to help me put my RD back together. Been painting it all week.

Forgot to mention I waved at you when you drove by my neck of the woods. I should've gotten a pic but I was talking to you on my camera. Lol

I had a 4" straight pipe on my '87 R and loved it. I put a 5" straight pipe on my '96 RD but it kind of looked out of place. I had flex pipe running up behind the cab, then a 4" to 5" reducer, then about a 48" chrome pipe. I couldn't figure out a way to make the factory RD pipe work, because of the sharp 90 degree bend it makes right before the muffler. I ended up just putting it back factory for looks, mainly. I loved the sound.

Were you with the Seabees, Mr. Terry? I almost joined up several years ago, and I wanted to be an operator or a mechanic but I was afraid with my luck I'd end up being a dang cook or the guy that cleans the bathrooms. Lol I wish I would have now. I'm 29 and too broke up for it now. Doubt I'd pass the inspection. Thank you for your service!

I hate to bad mouth folks, but has anyone else noticed how they, let's say, "exaggerate," truck specs? For example, they might have a '76 R model with a 237 and a 5 speed with a 12k front and 34k rears, but their ad will read," 1976 Mack R690, 350 Mack engine, 8LL trans, 20K front, 46K rears, HEAVY SPEC! 200,00 miles, oil changed every 10K miles." Bullshit, I say. I think if you type in macktrucksnigeria.com, it links to their website. Just another sleazy exporter.