2006Largecar

Anyone have an idea why just the outside gauges (circled in the pic) will not work? Wiring looks fine going into the gauge cluster. Im assuming the gauges have some type of brain, like the icu in a kenworth. Could that be a problem if some gauges don’t work? I was thinking if that was bad, all the gauges wouldn’t work. Im kind of leaning towards a wiring issue, but Im not sure where to start.

I too used the feeler gauge, and it seems to have worked.

Its funny you mention that. On eaton’s website i read last night that the clutch brakes are designed to operate with grease on them, and it does not negatively effect the performance.

Hey, i know this thread has been dead a while, but if any of you guys are sanding aluminum, I’ve found an airway wheel that works very well when used at low rpm’s. I’ve been polishing longer then I’ve been trucking, and this wheel saves lots of time. I found it on renegadeproductsusa.com. Under the metal restoration category, they sell a “satin airway” wheel. Its almost like a scotch brite material that puts a satin finish on the aluminum. I used it on tanks and wheels with great success. I use it as a more aggressive sanding and follow up with 320/400 grit and higher paper. The wheel greatly speeds up the time finishing the contours of a wheel. I use a buffer and run it at 3000 rpm or less. The 6000 rpm grinder will just destroy the wheel in a hurry. They’re a little pricey, so you don’t want to do that.

I thought that’s how i would do it. I usually mix up some dish soap and water. I then squegee it, and work any bubbles out, but I was not sure if that would work with this vinyl. I guess I’ll experiment and see how she goes.

Looks great. I may have to try that vinyl out on my international. Any secrets on applying it so as to not get any air bubbles?

Well, i got the clutch brake working properly, its about the bottom 1/2” inch of the pedal, and i have about an 1-1/2” of freeplay( i don’t like much more than that). So I guess i did it right. Im going to do a little more reading tonight, and see how she goes. Thanks

The truck did also have problems shifting out of first and reverse at a stand still. Im hoping all of this is related to the adjustment of the linkage. The previous owner of the truck had passed away, so Im blind when it comes to the trucks history. Oh well, Im sure we’ll get to the bottom of it.

Also, i see that with the freeplay out of the equation, i should have about a half inch between the throwout bearing and the clutch brake.

The truck had an automated greasing system on it. Someone has since cut the line to the throwout bearing and has put a standard zerc fitting on it. As far as hard starting, the truck does have an issue, but I assumed it had something to do with the electrical system. As you turn the key, it will crank and almost die out like the batteries are shot, but if you keep the key in the cranking position it will fire. As far as the adjustment on the clutch arm, I assume you loosen the jam nut and turn the square head bolt clockwise to give more clutch brake? Do i have to loosen the other bolts attached to that arm? The shaft going into the trans to the clutch release arm has a piece on it with two nuts and a type of a sliding adjustment, kind of like how you would tighten up an alternator. Im not sure if that all has to be loose before adjusting linkage, or just the jam nut and square headed nut? I know when my buddy and I did the clutch on my peterbilt with an eaton 18spd, we used a piece of paper to get the clutch brake set. Is that how you guys do it? I was reading on eaton’s website they mentioned using a 0.010 feeler gauge. Im just killing some time until my assistant’s foot gets here. Thanks

Im going to try and look at it sometime this week with the holiday coming up. The clutch has freeplay, and the clutch brake looks like its been replaced with one of the slip on jobs. However the clutch brake doesn’t seem to do its job. Im currently driving another truck, but I have to get this figured out before I can put someone in that truck. I’ll get back to you guys once I familiarize myself with it again.

Anyone know what the service procedure is for properly adjusting an air assist clutch? It acts like the clutch brake is bad, but its not. I read once before on here, that guys recommend installing a clutch cable and removing the air setup. I’d like to just fix what I have, but if I need to convert it to a cable setup, I can do that as well. What do you guys think? The truck that I am working on is an 08’ cxu 613 with an eaton fuller 18 spd. Any information will be appreciated. Thank You, Chris

You guys are comparing apples to oranges when you compare China's passenger rail to that of the US. First off, you forget that in America, liability and safety practices greatly limit efficiency and productivity. Lets not forget the wreck in 2011, where Chinese officials tried to literally cover up the wreck. Pieces of the wreck were buried on site. Can you imagine if we still did that today? I know that is how things used to get done in America, but not anymore. Today there are a line of Lawyers surrounding the accident site. When China wants to build a new line, they just do it; they don't care whats in the way or what it costs. New Jersey transit has been trying to expand a line by only a few miles by my mom's house. They've been fighting to reinstate a section of track that operated in the seventies. The fight has been going on almost as long as I have been on earth. They finally got approval, started clearing the trees, and dumping stone. They even started laying concrete ties and new rail, only to be stopped again by people who are complaining about the death trains running through their backyards. For the past number of years the line acts as a highway for dirt bikes and quads. My brother is an engineer between Washington and New York. At the end of the day, American passenger rail is capable of higher speeds, and tighter scheduling, but God forbid there is a wreck of some sort. Amtrak has been dumbed down, and they wouldn't know what a real passenger train experience is. US railroads are spending billions of dollars in signaling systems to try and prevent wrecks. When half the problem can be attributed to guys who are a poor excuse for railroad employees. Its just like trucking, they design the new stuff so any idiot can run it, and that's exactly what you get. The day when a railroader took pride in his job, is gone. I can go on and on, but for what ever reason, that's the way it is.

Well, I know its been a while since I last posted. I ended up getting my tip turbine back together. I couldn't find the bearings at Mack, but like Mr. 41 Chevy said, Napa was able to help me out. Thanks