2006Largecar

Anyone have an idea why just the outside gauges (circled in the pic) will not work? Wiring looks fine going into the gauge cluster. Im assuming the gauges have some type of brain, like the icu in a kenworth. Could that be a problem if some gauges don’t work? I was thinking if that was bad, all the gauges wouldn’t work. Im kind of leaning towards a wiring issue, but Im not sure where to start.

I too used the feeler gauge, and it seems to have worked.

Its funny you mention that. On eaton’s website i read last night that the clutch brakes are designed to operate with grease on them, and it does not negatively effect the performance.

Hey, i know this thread has been dead a while, but if any of you guys are sanding aluminum, I’ve found an airway wheel that works very well when used at low rpm’s. I’ve been polishing longer then I’ve been trucking, and this wheel saves lots of time. I found it on renegadeproductsusa.com. Under the metal restoration category, they sell a “satin airway” wheel. Its almost like a scotch brite material that puts a satin finish on the aluminum. I used it on tanks and wheels with great success. I use it as a more aggressive sanding and follow up with 320/400 grit and higher paper. The wheel greatly speeds up the time finishing the contours of a wheel. I use a buffer and run it at 3000 rpm or less. The 6000 rpm grinder will just destroy the wheel in a hurry. They’re a little pricey, so you don’t want to do that.

I thought that’s how i would do it. I usually mix up some dish soap and water. I then squegee it, and work any bubbles out, but I was not sure if that would work with this vinyl. I guess I’ll experiment and see how she goes.

Looks great. I may have to try that vinyl out on my international. Any secrets on applying it so as to not get any air bubbles?

Well, i got the clutch brake working properly, its about the bottom 1/2” inch of the pedal, and i have about an 1-1/2” of freeplay( i don’t like much more than that). So I guess i did it right. Im going to do a little more reading tonight, and see how she goes. Thanks

The truck did also have problems shifting out of first and reverse at a stand still. Im hoping all of this is related to the adjustment of the linkage. The previous owner of the truck had passed away, so Im blind when it comes to the trucks history. Oh well, Im sure we’ll get to the bottom of it.

Also, i see that with the freeplay out of the equation, i should have about a half inch between the throwout bearing and the clutch brake.

The truck had an automated greasing system on it. Someone has since cut the line to the throwout bearing and has put a standard zerc fitting on it. As far as hard starting, the truck does have an issue, but I assumed it had something to do with the electrical system. As you turn the key, it will crank and almost die out like the batteries are shot, but if you keep the key in the cranking position it will fire. As far as the adjustment on the clutch arm, I assume you loosen the jam nut and turn the square head bolt clockwise to give more clutch brake? Do i have to loosen the other bolts attached to that arm? The shaft going into the trans to the clutch release arm has a piece on it with two nuts and a type of a sliding adjustment, kind of like how you would tighten up an alternator. Im not sure if that all has to be loose before adjusting linkage, or just the jam nut and square headed nut? I know when my buddy and I did the clutch on my peterbilt with an eaton 18spd, we used a piece of paper to get the clutch brake set. Is that how you guys do it? I was reading on eaton’s website they mentioned using a 0.010 feeler gauge. Im just killing some time until my assistant’s foot gets here. Thanks

Im going to try and look at it sometime this week with the holiday coming up. The clutch has freeplay, and the clutch brake looks like its been replaced with one of the slip on jobs. However the clutch brake doesn’t seem to do its job. Im currently driving another truck, but I have to get this figured out before I can put someone in that truck. I’ll get back to you guys once I familiarize myself with it again.

Anyone know what the service procedure is for properly adjusting an air assist clutch? It acts like the clutch brake is bad, but its not. I read once before on here, that guys recommend installing a clutch cable and removing the air setup. I’d like to just fix what I have, but if I need to convert it to a cable setup, I can do that as well. What do you guys think? The truck that I am working on is an 08’ cxu 613 with an eaton fuller 18 spd. Any information will be appreciated. Thank You, Chris

You guys are comparing apples to oranges when you compare China's passenger rail to that of the US. First off, you forget that in America, liability and safety practices greatly limit efficiency and productivity. Lets not forget the wreck in 2011, where Chinese officials tried to literally cover up the wreck. Pieces of the wreck were buried on site. Can you imagine if we still did that today? I know that is how things used to get done in America, but not anymore. Today there are a line of Lawyers surrounding the accident site. When China wants to build a new line, they just do it; they don't care whats in the way or what it costs. New Jersey transit has been trying to expand a line by only a few miles by my mom's house. They've been fighting to reinstate a section of track that operated in the seventies. The fight has been going on almost as long as I have been on earth. They finally got approval, started clearing the trees, and dumping stone. They even started laying concrete ties and new rail, only to be stopped again by people who are complaining about the death trains running through their backyards. For the past number of years the line acts as a highway for dirt bikes and quads. My brother is an engineer between Washington and New York. At the end of the day, American passenger rail is capable of higher speeds, and tighter scheduling, but God forbid there is a wreck of some sort. Amtrak has been dumbed down, and they wouldn't know what a real passenger train experience is. US railroads are spending billions of dollars in signaling systems to try and prevent wrecks. When half the problem can be attributed to guys who are a poor excuse for railroad employees. Its just like trucking, they design the new stuff so any idiot can run it, and that's exactly what you get. The day when a railroader took pride in his job, is gone. I can go on and on, but for what ever reason, that's the way it is.

Well, I know its been a while since I last posted. I ended up getting my tip turbine back together. I couldn't find the bearings at Mack, but like Mr. 41 Chevy said, Napa was able to help me out. Thanks

Thanks for the part number. I haven't called my guy at Mack yet. I will let you know how I make out.

Anybody have a parts breakdown on a tip turbine? I've got mine apart, and Im wondering where I can find a new set of bearings for it. Im located in NE PA. Im going to try mack in morning. I just can't see any numbers on the bearings. Thanks in advance, Chris

Hi, my buddy is interested in your truck, and would like to check it out. I gave him your number, he said he called but did not get a return call. He's been screening his calls. So, if the truck is still available, shoot him a text at 908 619-1609. If that doesn't work, you can give me a buzz at 973 270-7017. Thanks, Chris

Hey, sorry for delay in my reply, I've been pretty busy. Anyway, I'm currently still working on the cruiseliner. I should be running it in a few weeks. It still needs a lot of work, but its a fun project. If anyone is interested in the rears, let me know, they're located about 40 minutes from Mccungie. Thanks

I will do that Doug. Im hoping to be there some time Monday. I'd like to see somebody use it.

I have a cutoff from my 79' cruiseliner. Im not a huge mack guy, so everything is to the best of my knowledge. Its got a 34k camelback suspension (rubber bushings) 3.65 ratio, and its got a manual slide fontaine fifth wheel. I was running the truck and I decided to airride it when I broke a spring. Its been sitting for almost a year. The pinion bearing and peanuts were changed just prior to me parking it. Its also setup for bud wheels. I will try to post pictures, but I just wanted to see if there was any interest. Im open to reasonable offers. Located in Phillipsburg, NJ. I may be able to ship by the end of the month when my job ends. Thanks Chris

I have four used inside polished alcoa 22.5 x 8.25 rims. Asking $725 for the set of four. There are some knicks and pitting that do not show up in the pic. Located in Poconos PA. I switched over to hub pilots so i do not have use for these anymore. Thanks

If it was me, i would put the truck on a level surface. I would then use a level or an angle finder to measure the pitch of the frame rail. Take a measurement from a spot on the frame somewhere over the steer axle to the floor. Then jack the front of the truck so it has the desired pitch, and take another measurement from that same point you used earlier. Then subtract the two, and that should give you a pretty good idea of what block would be the best fit.

Well, i am by no means a professional, or an engineer when it comes to an air ride steer axle. But whether it is right or wrong, i know guys that remove leafs when they airbag the steer axle. Most guys are really doing it so they can dump the air when parked and be low. I do know some guys who are running a single peterbilt/kw spring to locate the axle. However, if it breaks you have big problems. My buddies, factory kw air ride has what i would call a leaf and a half. Its got a single spring with a half of spring that runs from the front pin and goes back and serves as the base for the airbag setup. I believe his has a leveling valve on each side, but im not certain. A lot of guys use a pressure regulator to charge the bags, that way they dont need a leveling valve. Some guys i know run a crossover line between the regulated bags, while other guys i know have individually charged bags. There is always a debate over what rides better and which setups are more stable in the corners. I personally like the kenworth 8 bag airbag with the pressure controlled from in the cab. I haven't made my mind up on the crossover or not. Bottom line, if your thinking about doing it yourself, you have to be a guy that likes to experiment. If not, you just have to stick with the factory setups. I hope that helps a bit Quickfarms.

Ive been working on a peterbilt that i have, for over a year now. In fact, the reason why im a mack owner as well, is because my peterbilt project has taken me quite some time, and i had to keep my customers happy. Anyway i airbagged my steer axle with a home built setup. Unfortunately, i haven't gotten it on the road yet. A bunch of my buddies have done it with alot of success, although there are a few varying opinions on the way to do it. Ive driven a few, as well as a factory setup on a kenworth 660. The kenworth has four bags with a leveling valve, where as mine is pressure controlled by me from inside the cab. (Probably similar to the setup you are looking at). In my experience, they ride well and smooth out the bridge joints. All setups that I am talking about have the bags mounted over the axle as a helper bag. A lot of guys use the airbag from the kenworth 8 bag suspension.