Vladislav

A pump needed to fill up the torque converter. Normally the front one does that driven by the crankshaft of the engine. I'm familiar with Mercedes auto trannies only and there's (was) additional pump put in the rear of the unit driven by the output shaft. So when you make a rope start getting the car rolling about 25-30km/h you need 30-50 meters for the oil to fill the converter so spinning of the wheels gets transmitted to the crankshaft. As long as engine gets fired up and the front (main) pump develops pressure that pressure pushes a plunger shifting off the additional pump drive deactivating it. That was a handy setup Mercedes kept in production unitil 1990-1991. Than they eleminated the pump putting just a cover in its place. I once had a funny situation when I test drove a freshly rebuilt tranny. After driving fine for 2-3 km I got to a wide paved spot to make a U-turn. Had to stop to pass traffic and when pressed gas pedal found no car movement. Figured my shop guy mismatched front pump drive coupling when was installing the tranny and ruined it. We had that done multiple times with those cars (W126 S-class of 80's-early 90's). Usually a car doesn't move initially after transmission installation but there were 2-3 times when it drove for some while and quit later. That was one of those cases. The spot I used for the U-turn was at a top of a hill and my way back to the shop was downhill. So I bit the bullet managed wide enough interruption in the traffic (needed to cross he opposite lane), pushed the car by hands a bit to get it slightly rolling downhill and in a hundered or so meters switched to D. I was rolling about 25 km/h at the moment and the engine was running. Pressed gas and felt good reaction. Drove 3 km back successfully and luckily needing no stops. The first one turned out in front of the shop gates already and there we had to push in by hands. Transmission removed front pump swapped.

Welcome to the groupe! The truck looks great! I wish you good luck to get it ready hitting the road soon! Vlad

During WW2 under Lend-Lease some handful of IH KR-11 dump trucks were supplied to Soviet Union. None of those known survived and even not many photos of them in service here too. Would be cool to find a similar one and import. But that's out of my capabilities at the moment.

Two wooden barrels put at the front of the bed right behind the cab would add country look. And could be used as luggage compartments perfectly.

Joey, step by step makes long ways covered. I remember you mentioned this project multiple times in other threads and it's a good idea to compile everything at one place. I'm going to keep my eye for updates. The truck looks like in a very good solid shape which means excellent potencial. And once the mechanics/electrics are ready you might put efforts to the paint or maybe just clear coat or even maybe some other unusual artificial solution. I picture the truck with flat bed body maybe with stakes or with a long narrow tank or maybe some special type of structure which would bring look and help using it to drive to a grocery shop sometimes. Good approach to the electrics. Modern stuff should not be seen on a classic rig but it can make its job done.

Is that the wind with the tail and two ears or just an old photo? The beer distributor has impressive look no argue but my highest bid would be for the Sand and Gravel. Hope Zina enjoys the pickup and can handle manual steering. As we know desire means more than capabilities.

Nice! I like the look of these IH's. Maybe you know Russia produced ZiS-150 trucks after the war with design grabbed from the IH. But slightly reworked with wider cab and flat head engine. Just wonder how can you find the time t work on this project?

Happy B-lated B-day Brocky!

Hi and welcome to the group! Answering your question. I honestly don't have the particular point. The most vehicles I have ever dealt with (probably same to you) the oil gets up to the filling hole. But service manual for my 1945 Mack truck (tandem bogie though) prescribes to fill up to a level of one inch lower than the filling hole. There's a nuance that truck has wheel bearings separated from the banjo and they're greased don't get any oil from the differential. Your bearings get oil from the banjo I guess so I'd keep the level up to the edge of the hole. There could be an option to check if you remove one wheel hub and see the level in the banjo the oil starts leaking from the jack shaft tube to where the bearings are expected to be. That would be a required minimum to my understanding but seems easier to just fill up to the plug. Hope this may help. Vlad

Do you like this? Just go to the top of the page. https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/collections/item/867-h65/?tab=comments#comment-194

And I doubt there are many (any?) chances to find a factory single axle R with air ride at the rear. B's are out of that point definitely. There were converstion made by owners though.

Bob, how did they look in Allied Van lines colors those days? Bright orange all over? I like the look of them H's.

H-65 - a non-sleeper cab? Or am I wrong?

Well I see well enough that the grass is green and the dogs are pretty but hell where's that wagon with the rocks?? Ain't any unknown Winfall lady accured/adopted them for any reason?

Thanks for the service Barry. I hope we will survive after one more software update

That's exactly that state that may be described as happiness. I'm sure you know it. Just can't confess until the truck is ready to go.

Happy B-day Joey! Best wishes!!!

Yes, very clean job with clean welds. And as I noted multiple Mack trucks had tranny mounts made similar way from the factory. Hope you was able to count out desirable position of the engine well enough.

Did it suit? Looks like partially out Congrats on the big step up!

Happy Birthday Bob! 40 people - wow, that's a gang! Wonder might anybody from them be interested in helping fixing the DM as a weekend activity?

Thank you. I sure will put punch marks on everything I can. But always prefere to track down the correctness of assembly and further operation by understanding of principles. Takes long but pays back. You know what I mean and seems you know that better than me.

That's an interesting thought on the output shaft to be removed with the box in the chassis. Not almost sure but possibly. On the other hand my most trouble was removing the Pitman arm. Taking the box out wasn't easy task too but we were 3 men crue for that deal. Thanks for taking attention to my question Bob.

Well worthy advices. Thanks. I'm not almost sure on the initial correctness of the top cover fit. A portion of bolts were already loose and that bracket for U-joint intermedial shaft was partially hanging in a wind. Definitely its correct position wasn't clear to me. Somebody tried to fix the leak I guess, tried removing the cover and than something went out or order. Do I understand right I could figure orientation of the cover by position of the relief valve pin? It must point to the relief ball right? Also I'd like to investigate the condition of the Pitman arm shaft seal as I noted previousely. Honestly for the best scenario I would like to disassemble the unit completely, cover mating surfaces with steel lazer cut covers, sandblast and paint the housings, regalvanize hardware than put everything back together with new OEM seals. But the irony is I have one more Mack power steering box which is supposed to pass along that described path and that's a plan for distant future. And that yellow DM is wanted to be movable in the nearest couple of months.

That could be my way to go if I knew the design of the insides than. But those spare units put me onto wrong rails. Also DM has the box inside the frame so I haven't seen the whole thing until pulled it out. So far my idea is to take the unit apart carefully and investigate the insides. Input shaft outside seals are needed definitely but seems they could be located just by the size. High pressure seal is another story. So seems I already have something more to put my hands on. Many thanks for the info support.

And it doesn't lock at a certain speed. It provides special torque distribution at any (?) speed.