Vladislav

Thank you. I sure will put punch marks on everything I can. But always prefere to track down the correctness of assembly and further operation by understanding of principles. Takes long but pays back. You know what I mean and seems you know that better than me.

That's an interesting thought on the output shaft to be removed with the box in the chassis. Not almost sure but possibly. On the other hand my most trouble was removing the Pitman arm. Taking the box out wasn't easy task too but we were 3 men crue for that deal. Thanks for taking attention to my question Bob.

Well worthy advices. Thanks. I'm not almost sure on the initial correctness of the top cover fit. A portion of bolts were already loose and that bracket for U-joint intermedial shaft was partially hanging in a wind. Definitely its correct position wasn't clear to me. Somebody tried to fix the leak I guess, tried removing the cover and than something went out or order. Do I understand right I could figure orientation of the cover by position of the relief valve pin? It must point to the relief ball right? Also I'd like to investigate the condition of the Pitman arm shaft seal as I noted previousely. Honestly for the best scenario I would like to disassemble the unit completely, cover mating surfaces with steel lazer cut covers, sandblast and paint the housings, regalvanize hardware than put everything back together with new OEM seals. But the irony is I have one more Mack power steering box which is supposed to pass along that described path and that's a plan for distant future. And that yellow DM is wanted to be movable in the nearest couple of months.

That could be my way to go if I knew the design of the insides than. But those spare units put me onto wrong rails. Also DM has the box inside the frame so I haven't seen the whole thing until pulled it out. So far my idea is to take the unit apart carefully and investigate the insides. Input shaft outside seals are needed definitely but seems they could be located just by the size. High pressure seal is another story. So seems I already have something more to put my hands on. Many thanks for the info support.

And it doesn't lock at a certain speed. It provides special torque distribution at any (?) speed.

Yes, about that. Interaxle diff full lock was an option. Interaxle power divider (which actually is an interaxle differential of unique Mack design) is a standard feature of all Mack tandem bogies starting from early 40's years. It doesn't lock up two drive axles completely but acts specially providing 3 times (or up to 3 times?) greater torque to the non-slipping at the moment axle. Common diff provides 50:50 torque distribution. As long as you haven't found any switch with a tag of "interaxle lock - out" I suppose the truck doesn't have any. What is very common. To answer your question exactly you need to crawl under the chassis to observe the front portion of the diff housing of the front rear axle. In the area the prop shaft from the tranny comes to. There's a long housing to accomodate the pinion shaft. RR diff has it shorter since FR accomodate that power divider in it either and RR doesn't. So if the full air lock divider takes place you'd see a housing offset of the main housing with air line attached to it. If no of such and the pinion housing is simple cylindric shape that's standard Mack power divider (also called by people as automatic PD)

Upps, I'm wrong. No balls in the thread in Sheppard. Even much simplier design. Those balls are the most of headach assembling Benz boxes.

Also there's a bit of results of on-line search. Repair kit for 592 is represented by Automann (China or Turkey?) 465.4024 or (possibly) another option here: https://suntransmissions.com/products/complete-gear-seal-kit-transtec-rh-sheppard-592-series-3-4-5518091-8305?srsltid=AfmBOorts27v7nDsEdYNOaM7l9WNbOqG15ELRbp1TAigeXZKWd2O1K_U Do those kits look as what could/should be put into 592?

Many thanks! Now I'm not blind! In general this style of power steering gear is familiar to me. I rebuilt a few integral units for Mercedes cars and G-wagens. Also a shaft with semi-round threads and circulating balls. Still not sure on rightness of identification of my box. I could locate the stamping today. There in the triangle near the adapter plate. 87H1540 and ST5 is written there. Also cast text can be read as 592S5-6 what may be count as 592-something. Does this guess seem correct?

Bob, no, no leftovers. I suppose you used all needed parts and I also suppose I will need the similar ones exactly. A question I'd ask regarding that haven't you saved the parts order or the invoice? I could use the seals ## from there and maybe a few other items.

Looks very similar. Could you locate any spairs for it? I just missed that part in your whole long story. Even tried to rifle through but ran outta time.

Or at least loudly say over the world they would. I sure don't know for sure. I haven't seen any bombs there in person.

I had an issue with that steering gear when purchased the truck. But put myself into even larger issue due to lack of attention. Originally there was obviouse damage to the input shaft seal. And also the top cover bolts were partially removed and those which hold the joint bracket too. So looked like somebody tried to fix the leak but hadn't. After I fired up the engine and drafted some fluid into the reservoir the seal (or the place it supposed to be) started spitting oil if I spinned the steering wheel. I drove the truck for 20-30 meters to get it into my property from the street. Than parked for better times. Recently a need showed up to relocate the truck. I had a couple of similar gears off R-models in a shed and figured to just swap the unit. We put plenty of efforts to pull the Pitman arm off the shaft and have extracted that darn weighty piece of iron from the chassis. And only when it was off I could find out although general look was very similar the DM unit appeared notably larger than those I had off R's. This way there's a need to swap the seal at least or revise it fully (that's preferrable). One moment I dislike we had to heat up the Pitman arm by torch since it didn't go otherwise and I now worry on the condition of its shaft seal either. The shaft hasn't become really hot and I saw no smoke from that spot but seems reasonable to make the check or a swap. So the questions are: Can anybody identify the model? I haven't found any serial number/stampings. Cast digits only. Is there repair manual avalible? What are the part## for both input and output seals? Thanks in advance, any input is very appreciated.

Since that's 4x4 and you need to shift the transer case to Lo sometimes and that's air operated shift it looks like there's a reason for the input shaft (the output from the tranny) to spin longer. So my bet is it's a flywheel indeed. Not a balancer. Although a balancer could work as a flywheel too. Very interesting subject you discowered, thanks for sharing. As for the truck itself late Mike Harbison (Superdog) purchased it from somewhere. He was offering it to obtain a new home for some coins but at a certain time resolved to donate it to the Museum. I may be wrong on the story but that's how I remember the chain of events. RIP Mike.

Looks as nice as a Barbie house on the picture. I may be too seriouse on a concrete basement but from the look you will be in need of some strong sheet material to put close to the net walls at the inner side and sunk into the ground 4-5". Otherwise chickens would make a tunnel really soon and enjoy freedome until meet a fox or the dogs.

That's one definitely good thing you did. Before reading that I honestly was going to advise you to go on foot. No fuel is needed and you could be right at time to the event if start today or tomorrow.

I expect you to provide a portion of concrete jobs soon. Chickens use to dig and are especially skilled doing that about making passages below fences. My neighbour used to farm some and from time to time I have been called to allow him to go to my property for catching an escapee. Besides that the coop turned out great!

Looks like I should say sorry for a kind of propaganda. Those newspapers I lay on a table were printed by Russian Communist party to a certain election event. They were spread for free and my mom grabbed a stack somewhere to give me for my garage means.

Update on the deal. Since I found no data from Bendix on how to torque conn rod cap bolts I resolved to use the figure I've taken when was getting those bolts loose. The compressor I took them from was NOS and looked like nobody touched its insides after the factory. That time I grabbed my late granddad's torque wrench and checked out the release force. The reading was 200. That old thingy had been calibrated in kg-cm so the figure was equal to 2 kg-m or about 14.5 ft.lb. What I noted the threads of bolts had some yellow color stuff on them which appeared as thread locker. So the reading could be higher than actual torque limit. If I fit a common steel bolt into a steel/iron boss I'd grease the threads. In that case I didn't want grease to not make the point loosier but wanted something for the thread to spin easier. Thought about thread lock but got worried on even higher loose torque increase in a case I ever remove the bolts again. So ended up using silicone gasket maker I use alot over different spots and was very familiar with its properties. So "greased" the threads by sealer and applied torque carefully tracking the increase of the force. Turned out I was easily achieving those 200 digits and maybe a tiny bit more after which further turn of the wrench made no increase to the torque. Which meant alu thread's deformation. Again, I kept very high accuracy so that overtorqueing became 5-10 degrees no more. No worry for the thread's damage I guess. All 4 bolts showed similar scenario after which I closed the bottom cover (a kind of an oil pan) and finished assembly of the cylinder head.

Double thanks Paul and Paul! I'm always fine in your company!

Thank you. I will try. Just when I get myself to the task. Currently have to offset my activity to another project.

Yes, I understand. And what you're telling makes sence definitely. To explain my case I should take the manual and research the starter electrc schematic. But that needs time and attention of which I recently am very short. I will keep the subject on my mind since it's very remarkable and well new to my "modern car" experience. Also it sounded very surprizingly of a generator to be able operating for both polarities if pre-magnetized. I have a generator for that same truck I'm going to put my hands on either but didn't so far. The voltage regulator is mechanical too and I recently reassembled it with body painted and terminal nuts/washers galvanized. But the inside looked so virgin I saw no reason to disturb it. It needs to be tested though but my current plan is just to install both the regulator and generator on the vehicle when it's ready to start the engine in the chassis and look for actual work. If a trouble I'm on here asking help

That's very interesting point on the upcoming Hajj time as a reason to end up the conflict. On the other hand the conflict barely limits Hajj procedure on my mind since Mecca is far away from the gulf and Iran didn't hit Saudi Arabia facilities excepting those US-related (at least as they publically said). There was an interesting moment regarding China recently. A couple days back the gulf countries put a resolution at UN (initiated by Kuwait?) with attempt to legalize power salvation of the Hormuz pass blockage. The resolution was blocked by Russia and China (with a few more neutral votes including Pakistan). Russia had interest for the blockade since gets profits from higher oil costs that's clean. But China could be expected to have opposit interest on that. And they acted protecting Iran instead. Maybe they worry on possible damage to Iranian oil terminals with perspective to not purchase Iranian oil at all?