The Heinz

They were calling for an absolute ice-maggedon here, just for it to sleet most of the time. Do not get me wrong, I'm thankful for that, but man, it got everyone here panic buying everything! I know a lot of other places got hit hard, so I'm thankful we got off easy this time. It is really cold though!

What expansion tank and sensor did you use? I haven't had too many bad experiences with aftermarket tanks, but the sensors are often times tricky in the aftermarket.

I agree about the coolant, I feel like I remember reading a service bulletin about the ASET motors having a bad tendency to have cavitation in the water pump or something... Regardless of that, coolant is in my experience one of the most overlooked parts of any vehicle, because if it isn't overheating, it's working just fine, right? I didn't service the coolant in my previous pickup like the manual suggested, and I cracked the radiator cap one day and found it full of rust. Never could flush it all out no matter how many times I tried. Ended up losing the radiator and water pump, both honestly because of miles more so than the rust, but I wanted out from under that truck because I didn't feel like replacing the head gaskets on a Hemi any time soon. Lesson learned, CHECK YOUR COOLANT YA'LL!

The correct boost pressure sensor for a 2006 ought to be old number 64MT446A, new number 25100873, or PAI number FSU-0486/FSU-0486E. I checked this using a 2004 AC460 and a 2006 AC427, both had the same sensor numbers.

I think the primer pumps are the same size, I haven't run into a situation where someone had one that was different. Here's a visual of the pumps from PAI that I use for customers all the time; number 11 on there seems to be universal.

EGR hot pipe probably isn't seated well, it's an absolute pain to get it correct. It's always recommended to replace the gaskets at the minimum when you pull it off, it's that much of a pain.

ETECH uses 690's if I recall right, which I should since my research problem back then is what led me here.

The OEM engine brakes for those years of E7's are Jacobs 680B models. You can usually find used ones for sale online, as I'm not sure if you can get new assemblies since Cummins absorbed Jacobs.

I don't think there is, since neither transmission should have an ECU of any type. Someone else might know exactly, but it should be pretty cut and dry.

I may be a dealer, but aftermarket has never worked well when it comes to emissions parts. Maybe someone makes a good aftermarket EGR valve, but I'd be wary of it.

We don't even rebuild them, if the gears themselves require replacing, it's a short transmission at a minimum. Truth be told, the actual rotating assembly is pretty bulletproof, it's the mechanization that causes all the problems.

Oof, yeah you're right. Might be a little hard to bend that haha.

May still be available under the old Euclid number, E-4868. Courtesy of Meritor.

The OEM number for the T310M synchro kit is 85148828, PAI is 806803 so that would be correct.

Yes, the new Volvos and Macks are 24v, and it's already a crap show. There's an updated procedure to jump the trucks off correctly THAT DOESN'T WORK. Customers have tried, we have tried. And nearly every time a truck gets jumped off, it fries the module that regulates the charging system. Yes, that's right, there's a module right there with the batteries! There's a module for EVERYTHING on these new trucks.

The Pioneer seems more oriented as an OTR type truck, and the Anthem is seemingly a bridge between that and say a Pinnacle. Still, we've seen a couple day cab Pioneers that were ordered in, so I feel like there's an overlap of the two models. I think one difference would be technology, as the Pioneers have the option for the digital mirrors among other stuff. There's probably some other details like tuning and such, but for the most part they seem almost interchangeable. I will also let everyone know that the new air systems are going to be wonderful to deal with, because they thought that brass fittings were so last year and went to plastic style that requires a tool to unplug. Add on a super complicated air dryer system that has a computer module JUST for it and BOOM; already had several brand new trucks have issues. Don't get me started on the also complicated 24v battery system!

There's a way, I'm just not sure how. Something probably using Tech Tool.

Did you use OEM NOx sensors? Any time we used aftermarket when availability from Volvo was NIL, they would fault after a few drive cycles.

I've been hearing the same about Freightliner and Western Star, but I don't have anyone that can help prove that. I have noticed a lot of the Western Star X series dump trucks popping up around here. For a truck that isn't a pre-Volvo Mack, they look pretty good.

What's your fuel tank look like? You could have gotten some bad fuel or something if there's residue in the tank. We've seen it happen locally around here; an entire fleet was having some fuel issues (all newer trucks), and it turned out to be a batch of bad fuel at the local fuel station all their drivers were going.

Funny story about diff vents: we had a rash of brand new trucks that had oil seepage from the wheel seals on the forward drive axles. We found there were dirt daubers building nests in the vent tube, IN EVERY TRUCK! They had been parked next to each other at some point before being delivered to us, so there must have been some of them flying around searching for a nesting spot.

It originally came with a Fuller FRO16210C.

A 1998 E7-427 shares the same crank as a 1992 E7-350, so I'd say you might be fine. I would wait to get a second opinion from someone who knows a little more than me.

Inner bearing set - SET413 Outer bearing set - SET409 Wheel seal 3202039 (Stemco number) Spindle nut 21AX790 / 20705159 available from Mack.