The Heinz

Thanks Joey, been wide open today, so far this week, and probably tomorrow. I might get to rest Saturday, maybe.

Valve spring washer is 20510743, keepers are 20510747 (individual pieces, not a set of two). We always recommend replacing the rocker bolts, but your truck, your decision. If you replace them, you need QTY 1 20412482, QTY 12 21344778.

It's the same engine, slight updates I think.

The picture I see on the website looks like the same cab as the current MD, and we haven't heard anything stating otherwise. HOWEVER, we have yet to see a single MD electric, so I can't be 100% certain.

I've seen some high mileage EPA04 MP7's around here, and they've always interested me. These guys aren't steering you wrong!

I've been told it's 24v at least in Europe, no idea on the rest of the world. I've heard Europeans singing high praises to the European Volvos elsewhere on the internet, so I'd imagine that they're pretty good.

Didn't mean to spark any arguments, but you are correct. 24v systems have been standard for the rest of the world for a while, and should have had a bulletproof launch here in the US. Except Volvo tried to overcomplicate the system for whatever reason and is probably going to pay for it. I don't have a problem with 24v systems, I mean how long has it been standard on our construction equipment? It's just the way Volvo has done it that has made such a problem.

Big Cam III 400HP, Fuller RTO14613, 4.10 Rockwell/Meritor rears. Their fault for providing a VIN haha.

Haven't heard of this yet, but I can see it happening. We apparently sold the first VHD cement mixer on the East Coast, hurray. The 24v system in the new Volvo's has been an absolute tragedy that has to end in a lawsuit from somebody. The batteries go dead all the time, so you better have a 24v charger, because a 12v will take eight hours to jump the truck off! Because apparently the EPA demanded there be X amount of modules controlling things, and one of them is in control of the batteries! THE BATTERIES HAVE A CONTROL MODULE. And it's gone bad in several different instances! I'm not having a fun time with it if you can tell.

Probably the oil thermostat itself, they're a very common failure point. Part number should be 23871486, located in the oil filter housing. It's the horizontal one.

I've never been able to recommend any aftermarket electronic on a Mack/Volvo, but ECM's I know very little about. I myself couldn't trust it, maybe someone else can tell you if it's worth the risk or not.

We got around 3" at home, but I took a long weekend to Asheville area and had a blast with the maybe 8" they had in Weaverville. Didn't have any problems getting around or out of there, just being a good driver handles that no problem. Had no clue it would hit -2F real feel though, that was fun! Coldest temps I've ever experienced, but I'd love to experience again with better clothing.

I sent him the part number for his harness via PM, but I figured I'd put the part number for the oil wicking kit in public view in case anyone needs it. The part number is 85137983, available from your local dealer. Comes with everything needed to prevent the harness from wicking oil.

They were calling for an absolute ice-maggedon here, just for it to sleet most of the time. Do not get me wrong, I'm thankful for that, but man, it got everyone here panic buying everything! I know a lot of other places got hit hard, so I'm thankful we got off easy this time. It is really cold though!

What expansion tank and sensor did you use? I haven't had too many bad experiences with aftermarket tanks, but the sensors are often times tricky in the aftermarket.

I agree about the coolant, I feel like I remember reading a service bulletin about the ASET motors having a bad tendency to have cavitation in the water pump or something... Regardless of that, coolant is in my experience one of the most overlooked parts of any vehicle, because if it isn't overheating, it's working just fine, right? I didn't service the coolant in my previous pickup like the manual suggested, and I cracked the radiator cap one day and found it full of rust. Never could flush it all out no matter how many times I tried. Ended up losing the radiator and water pump, both honestly because of miles more so than the rust, but I wanted out from under that truck because I didn't feel like replacing the head gaskets on a Hemi any time soon. Lesson learned, CHECK YOUR COOLANT YA'LL!

The correct boost pressure sensor for a 2006 ought to be old number 64MT446A, new number 25100873, or PAI number FSU-0486/FSU-0486E. I checked this using a 2004 AC460 and a 2006 AC427, both had the same sensor numbers.

I think the primer pumps are the same size, I haven't run into a situation where someone had one that was different. Here's a visual of the pumps from PAI that I use for customers all the time; number 11 on there seems to be universal.

EGR hot pipe probably isn't seated well, it's an absolute pain to get it correct. It's always recommended to replace the gaskets at the minimum when you pull it off, it's that much of a pain.

ETECH uses 690's if I recall right, which I should since my research problem back then is what led me here.

The OEM engine brakes for those years of E7's are Jacobs 680B models. You can usually find used ones for sale online, as I'm not sure if you can get new assemblies since Cummins absorbed Jacobs.

I don't think there is, since neither transmission should have an ECU of any type. Someone else might know exactly, but it should be pretty cut and dry.

I may be a dealer, but aftermarket has never worked well when it comes to emissions parts. Maybe someone makes a good aftermarket EGR valve, but I'd be wary of it.

We don't even rebuild them, if the gears themselves require replacing, it's a short transmission at a minimum. Truth be told, the actual rotating assembly is pretty bulletproof, it's the mechanization that causes all the problems.