The Heinz

There usually is, and them leaking isn't too uncommon. Our shop calls them the "oil pan bungs." Below is the lookup for a Volvo D13 (same as an MP8) I had open already, the orings are the highlighted numbers.

Several drivers at my last job ran their own CB antennas on the towel bar behind the cab. The cable running through the headliner to the mirrors was broken, so they just went that route with great results. Mack made it difficult to remove everything just for a rubbed cable...

I don't even know of a spring shop, and I'm only able to get the whole spring pack unfortunately.

This is PAI's listing for E6/7 fuel supply pumps and primers, are either one of these like the one you need? I have to match these up all the time for my older truck owners, but I've never searched for an E9 (sadly).

Transource Greensboro shows to have one, but I'm not sure if that's for shop use or for purchase, but I doubt you'd be able to borrow it.

We usually quote the V/C gasket when we're pulling them apart for a long time, like for injectors, camshaft, timing gear repairs, etc, but we usually just reuse them for an ePRV delete. You're not wrong, those things are EXPENSIVE!

We would be right at the same for two hours of labor and the parts. It's a shame you have to have a program performed, because the work isn't too difficult.

Cummins would be 33, because the Cat-powered Superliners I have VIN's for are RW753's.

It's still somewhat common for some applications, we've had a local customer order some trucks with dead rear axles, as well as several other companies with the same. I know a fuel hauler that had CXU's with MP7's and dead rears, but they were constantly being towed in and out all the time. Never knew what issues they were facing, other than someone that worked there previously saying they cheaped out on them.

I see that Norfolk Western caboose back there, can't hide that from me!

The VIN I have shows it at the top, so I'm confident it can be in both places and work just the same.

The problem is, there are several exhaust temp sensors in the system. There's one specifically for the EGR, and several in the DPF/SCR area. With the truck being a 2013, there should be three in the emissions system alone.

Looked up the VIN for a 2015 CXU and it appears to be mounted near the ECM, to the left of it if standing looking at the engine from driver's side.

Not sure if Volvo discovered I was trying to help someone without producing a bill first, but ESV just won't work for me anymore. Hopefully Joey can answer your questions Troy.

I'd love to have a rotary phone in my house, just for the giggles.

I think the ESV is down or something, I couldn't generate the schematic to retry. I'll try again later.

Thanks for the read. I had seen and heard old timers giving advice on people looking for older trucks with the older Cummins in them, and to be wary of anything with the "Low Flow" coolant system. Had no clue why.

Ground Distribution_Ground Distribution_2003_CV_volvo.pdf

I've never delved too deep into the ESV, so this might be a struggle... What section are you looking at? These are my options per a 2004 VIN I have saved:

Seconding this, we only use red 50/50 extended life in our shop, that's what Mack/Volvo specs with these trucks.

We've had a couple ETECH's with weak injector seals that let fuel mix with oil, if I remember correctly. Been a while since that happened. The only internal leaks we've seen were coolant and oil from a cracked liner. I'm struggling to imagine a cracked block on an ETECH mixing fuel and oil...

You say you checked, but I just want to say in case this helps someone else or might be your problem, but the most constant boost leak on the MP engines is the blue boots on the hot CAC pipe, the turbo-CAC pipe. Things go bad all the time.

That tube with the two sensors is called the EGR Mass Flow Tube/Assembly, using those terms with a parts person SHOULD get you the right part the first time.

If it's an mDrive, and it hasn't had transmission work done previously, it likely will soon. I wish I could be more positive about them, but we see a lot of failures even on brand new trucks with little miles, and I don't want to see anyone, especially a BMT member, get the short end of the stick. If this is the kind of truck you looking into, just be ready for that downtime and cost. If you notice an air leak in the bellhousing area, get that thing into an equipped shop ASAP, or you will have an even bigger bill than before. PRO TIP for any DIYers or anyone with one of these trucks, there's a little metal clip that holds the air line going from the solenoid to the clutch cylinder. We have found that replacing that clip and putting a couple of zip ties on the hose keeps the truck from being as much of a repeat customer. Number 7 down below, part number 1521975.