
Geoff Weeks
Pedigreed Bulldog-
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Everything posted by Geoff Weeks
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Old truck= old fuel hoses. I have chased my tail looking for a problem only to find the hose was porous and would allow air in but not fuel out. When in doubt, I would replace the suction hoses from the tank to the lift pump before going further. Funny thing is they can leak air and not show a drop of fuel from the outside.
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BTW you front hubs have the correct large "wedges" to be used on wide rims, 8" flat based (tube type) or 9" 22.5 tubeless rim. The wide rims need the long triangle wedges to keep the rim from breaking the studs.
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1979 cabover tilt ram
Geoff Weeks replied to RS Disposal's topic in Exterior, Cab, Accessories and Detailing
I had two cabovers (IHC's) that had powerpacker pump and "over center" long cyl. They had the cross checks, and I had one leaky cyl, so had to often add fluid, and I found if it was wet petroleum product, it would work. I would use anything and it worked. ATF, PS fluid or 10W-30. never had any opperational problems because of fluid type. -
8.25 rims are generally limited to 7k lbs, so if you want the full weight capacity of the tire size, you need the wider rim. Most often tires have a "spec" rim size and "acceptable" rim size which is often 1 size narrower or wider than the spec rim. So if you aren't going to load the rim above its limit, then 8.25 is fine if it is shown as an acceptable rim. I ran 295/80 22.5 steer tires, they are the same size (diameter) and just a hair wider, then a 11r x 22.5 and can be placed next to them in a set of duals, but have a higher weight capacity and to use that extra weight, you need to use 9" rims. Before someone says "those aren't the same , they are low pro 22.5," look up the tire size exactly as I wrote it. They aren't the more common 295/75 x 22.5
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10x20 is equal to a 11x 22.5, 11x 20 is equal to a 12x 22.5 Not sure what you are asking, 22.5 tubeless rim fits a 20" spoke. So a 11x 22.5 and a 10x 20 both have the same outside diameter, width and load carrying capacity (assuming the same load range or ply rating). The sidewall on a 20" tube type is taller, the outside diameter of the tubeless and tube type are the same. Tubeless require a drop center rim, (unlike the flat base of a tube type) so the rim is larger in diameter to allow for the "gutter" in the center of the drop center rim. On a tube type the rim comes apart to slide the tire and tube into place, a tubeless doesn't come apart so there must be a gutter to allow the beads to be forced over the rim.
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No, what I am saying is to go from tube type to tubeless and STAY THE SAME, in terms of size in every measure, you must add 1 to the size and 2.5" to the rim diameter SO a 11x 20 is equivalent to a 12x 22.5, not a 11x 22.5, which is the same as a 10x 20. If you downsize make sure the load capacity of the tire can handle the load, it will also throw off the speedo.
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1979 cabover tilt ram
Geoff Weeks replied to RS Disposal's topic in Exterior, Cab, Accessories and Detailing
doubtful the viscosity of the fluid is causing you problem, The gravity down is the problem, that should not happen on a modern (somewhat) truck cab system. It can trap a man under the cab and crush them if something goes wrong. Somewhere in the system there needs to be a cross-check valve that will not allow gravity to move the cab, it should require pressure from the return side (the side of the piston that is "retracting") to open the check and allow fluid to return. -
Again, when changing from tube type to tubeless, you add one to the "size" so 11 tube type becomes a 12 tubeless and you add 2.5 to the rim diameter. So a 11x 20 becomes 12 x 22.5 to remain the same. 20" spokes can have 20" tube type (flat based) rims or 22.5 tubeless drop center rims.
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Alcoa stud pilot front wheel lug nuts
Geoff Weeks replied to SuperB's topic in Driveline and Suspension
Here are some choices, note the "heavy duty" flange head for front or single aluminum wheels 100AB.pdf -
1979 cabover tilt ram
Geoff Weeks replied to RS Disposal's topic in Exterior, Cab, Accessories and Detailing
As you have said, it really doesn't matter what form of RTV is used, some are worse than others, but the fact it can glue the cones in place. I used to buy the gaskets 25 at a time, and still have some on my wall, after retirement. IHC and a few others use 3/4" studs through straight holes (no cones) and those you can use RTV, but I still use gaskets. -
1972 Loadstar , my love for loadstars continues .
Geoff Weeks replied to 85snowdog's topic in Other Truck Makes
Same with the Fleetstar A, it was a closer match to the A series, but the floor pan, firewall dash and roof were different stampings. Early Fleetstar's and Loadstars were more closely related. Look at/to the lower outer corner of the windshield, and the difference will be more evident. -
1979 cabover tilt ram
Geoff Weeks replied to RS Disposal's topic in Exterior, Cab, Accessories and Detailing
Problem is, the blue goo can be forced up the stud when the flange is tightened and "glue" the cones in place. I know it happens, but the correct way is a paper gasket. If you ever have to pull one that someone used a whole tube of RTV on, you'll never install with goo again, and always use a gasket. I know one that took 3 hrs of digging to get the cones out so the axle would come out. Paper also saves you from having to clean the old blue goo off the parts. -
1979 cabover tilt ram
Geoff Weeks replied to RS Disposal's topic in Exterior, Cab, Accessories and Detailing
Aurgh, too late now, but NEVER use goop with the taper cones, it make getting them out the next time a real chore. Use a gasket. When you remove the nuts, you should just have to give the flange a rap with a hammer and the cones will pop out. When blue goo is used they stick in the hub and don't release. Blue goo can be used on axles with straight studs and plain nuts (no cones), but I used to stock the gaskets and changed every time the axle was pulled. -
1972 Loadstar , my love for loadstars continues .
Geoff Weeks replied to 85snowdog's topic in Other Truck Makes
I saw one with 44,000lb GVW, tandem drive and juice brakes! 392 and stick. Vacuum PDL -
12x 22.5 would give you the same tire size (circumference, load and rev/mile) as 11.00 x20) Likely need 9" width rim to run that size. 11x 22.5 would be one step down in size and load capacity. Going to be expensive buying rims and tires. Neither are all that common either, but still easier to come by than 11x 20's.
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1979 cabover tilt ram
Geoff Weeks replied to RS Disposal's topic in Exterior, Cab, Accessories and Detailing
Air in the system can cause the safety check to lock. Basically, the cyl is double sided, fluid on both side of the piston, so for the ram to move oil has to go in one port and come out the other. So if there is no pressure (air) coming out, it slams the ports shut, preventing the ram from moving either way. There should be a bleed procedure somewhere in the manual. -
Wet tank 1st after the compressor is where most of the moisture will be found. You could put them on all, but shouldn't need too. Air driers replaced the need for them.
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I've made friends with a good small machine shop, He can make just about anything as long as it doesn't need a annealing oven to ether harden or anneal. His prices are too low for the work he does, and I always throw a few bucks extra when I pay him. Worth it to me.
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The issue/question is NOT will one bad battery pull the others down, it will in both cases, The question was if replacing just one, will it damage the others, and there the answer is no, but all will be better in a parallel bank than a series bank after the bad battery is replaced. A series will be held to the capacity of the weakest battery Lets say you put an 8D and a lawn tractor battery together to crank a diesel, In parallel, you get the full current of the 8D and a little help from the lawn tractor battery, in series you are limited to what the lawn tractor battery can pass.
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Paul I will have to disagree, not about the least resistance, but the state of charge in the battery. With the way they are charged in parallel, all the batteries see the same charge voltage, the current will flow to each as they all charge, the current may vary on how it is divided, but all will be raised to the same voltage. On in the pack that had a bad cell would get hot, and the current draw wouldn't taper to zero, but the other batteries in the pack will fully recharge. As for charging in series, it limits to all in the string. Li batteries and super capacitors are monitored and balanced individually even while being charged in series, to prevent damage from cell imbalance. It was not possible in days gone by and not economic with systems like trucks to have an active battery management system, but it would benefit from one. It is precisely why 24 volt start 12 volt run, just don't leave all the batteries in series and pull the 12 volt load off the tie between the batteries ( battery balancers or dual output alternators are used).
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How did they reply to it being a Mack engine? "Oh I mean we are a Volvo dealer"?
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Yes, it is a hard sell to make, BUT, as I said, if you are considering replacing your 24 volt start/ 12 volt run with a full 12 volt system, you are going to need new cables, new starter and likely new batteries. Add up all that, and the cost of only the Maxwell unit isn't as dear as it first looks. I can attest to the advantages, having a 12 volt unit, the 24 volt would only increase those advantages. Hard to justify on a "hobby" truck, more easy to on one that is out earning its keep daily.
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No, it is the other way around, you can't be sure of bringing cells in series to an equal charge. All batteries in parallel "see" the same voltage, but those in series are dependent on those below and above them in the stack. In an ideal world, you would charge each cell of a battery individually, then place them in series for the work needed. That, of course is not practical, so we charge them in groups of 3 or 6. The reason they say don't just replace one battery in a series group, is it's condition will be effected by all the other in the series group. In other words, the weakest link in the chain will determine how strong the chain.
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I don't know if you can still get them, but before I spent a lot of money on that system, I would look into a 24 volt Maxwell ESM. Keeps the 24 volt cranking and cables, allows you to use the two best 6 volts for the rest of the 12 volt system, and Maxwell will recharge off the 12 volts. Not cheap, but if you are planning to change to 12 volt, you have to change the starter and cables, plus a set of 12 volt batteries, that makes the Maxwell more competitive.
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