mechohaulic

look for the obvious first. tracing the cables not only looks for a problem but can also be a learning experience to see what makes the truck run . either way, hope there is a follow-up to let the members here know the end results. was a response given as to the unit having a generator or alternator ?

I never gave that a thought . All the older series =B's, L's, some very early R's etc had button start. another factor is in the day a key was on/off ONLY. no acc position. key was one wire in one out. newer key switches gave the acc position no need for button start . B's didn't need acc position to turn on the AC !

ALL the pictures are fine.. can't post anymore "likes" so my approval is there. the use of disc brakes on such a large unit better in todays world ?? another example of changing technology i'm guessing. did brakes on daughters car couldn't believe the tiny little brake pads.

a series parallel switch is (WAS) the big bulky switch located between seats in cab under a metal box (B-models). later units had some mounted in battery box. ALL the battery cables went to the S/P switch. key on- push button; power (12 volts) went to the S/P, internally the switch took the two sets of 12 volt batteries connected them in SERIEs ---- 2x12 = 24 volts to starter. truck starts ; coil in the S/p clicks off unit is a 12 volt with 24 volt starter. the S/P was basically the same as soliniod on a starter. large power to it , small power source to click it on. like the use of 55 rears many things in the good days were "over kill". todays electronic world it only takes 2 0r 3 batteries in PARALLE to start things.

i second the motion!! motor oil dripping should have the "wet look". spring had the heavy gear oil (steering box) mix with road dirt etc. i would concentrate on the oil pressure. might be within spec. even oil gotten complicated. and $$$$$ . wifes car runs 0-20. who the hll ever heard of 0-20. higher vis oil might help the pressure on this unit with shorter intervals . nothing else shorter intervals might show improvement. no improve go back to 200 + hrs.

looking at the first picture, doesn't seem to show the white milky color on the cable or spring assy that would indicate coolant mixture . post also didn't say using coolant , as with many post, not being there to physically observe challenges. inside of vent tube should have milky film. i've seen brand new trucks with blow-by. not saying it's ok just lesser of the two evils.

what type of maintance are you doing to it in terms of oil change intervals? blow -by not an issue . possibly shorten the oil change interval up grade oil type with hopes of raising oil pressure.

don't remember for sure , i think on those "new trucks"LOL ground cables go from batteries to frame rail. at engine area short cable goes from frame to starter. not like older units that ran a cable entire length from batteries to S/P switch. corroded cable end behind battery box usually first place to check. enough of connection from frame and cable too get very little voltage possible

back to original situation, i would consider a faulty S/P if all cables are ok. NO S/p switch just two sets of batteries; a connection seems likely. a cable ::1 would still carry voltage; 2 - putting a charger on it shouldn't make a difference having a bad cable . power can go from charger to starter, should go from generator/alternator to battery set . was a voltage check done at both battery boxes AND off the gen/alt output.

all right answers ; just said in different ways. two 6's per box cabled together in series + of one to - of other equals a X factor= 6x2=12volts per box.purpose of series parallel switch take the four big sixes(12volts each per set) put the two sets in SERIES making it 24 volts to starter ONLY. the unit should be 12 volt positive ground. does it have a generator or alternator??? one set when a S/P switch involved always gets less charge not that noticeable like your though. with all the new stuff today 12 volt start . batteries parallel to each other + to+ to + can go on endless no matter how many connected its still same voltage.

A '59 B61 was it converted to negative ground. you stated the neg goes to starter ground. positive ground was common then

must be me and old school way of thinking. when ever someone started a truck with manual trans, always push the clutch down and check shift lever for neutral so clutch pedal could be let go. not condemning any situation ; maybe 15 speed was in stock . never had air problems with the quad. i know it's just difficult to accept these new air transmissions and many other "advancements". but then the all manual trans have short comings (rarely). while 3 possible buyer watched ; myself and another mech were in the process of tow-starting a H67T one cold day . he had the wrecker, i had the H67. -with a twin stick duplex. no air built up and only a hand brake (found out it didn't work) . he stopped quick i let up the clutch-- BAM right into the boom of the wrecker. point is ALWAYS make sure both sticks are in gear, compound was in neutral LOL

might be interesting to hear the meaning behind "I broke my 1070 12speed. " misuse , old age , bad shift ????? . 12 speed broke what's stopping the 15 from breaking after all the change-over. just wondering . i know things break; that;s what kept me with a pay check for 50 yrs.

it's amazing how there are those that put time vs quality on a job. do it right the first time makes more sense ; then there won't be a second time for the same situation.

i said many times i'd rather have a welder in my hands than wrenches. no limit to the fun and experience working with welding. in the days of my small shop, i had 5 welders. from a little 120 wire feed . two 220 buzz boxes, 1 wire feed and the big lincoln I mounted to an air compressor chassis and towed behind the F 350. as discussed in another topic;;;;DON"T forget ear plugs. i always wanted to spend more time with a TIG machine, there was one in plant maintenance where i worked, never enough free time

Your not getting too old it's just time is going by too FAST.

a short version of a comical story. years back working for waterbury Mack, we took two new trucks to new haven truck rental ; picked up two for warranty work , i took the DM611 with quad heavy 24 in rubber frame rails half way to center of the radiator R model other guy had. he was behind me pulling out of driveway. unfortunatily i have to mention he was half shit housed from the beer he bought on way down. point is i was still teaching myself the proper way of shifting a quad, no brakes coming to stop sign;; downshifting instead. dopey behind me didn't see brake lights - he put the DM frame rails into the R's radiator. so there comes a time when shifting ALL the gears has a side disadvantage. LOL

If the old timers were still involved with the purchasing at O&G Mack might have stood a chance in todays world. we all know new england hasn't been Mack country unfortunately for yrs. you should have seen the look on my bosses face when i delivered the new DM to O&G. the guys were trying every way to open the hood. i walked up and said" guys hold on this isn't a horse on the hood it's a bulldog. every part of this truck is functional. " i walked over grabbed the bulldog and said " you pretend this dog is your boss, put your hand around his neck and pull. " thought i was going to be fired on the spot. think i was saved due to the large amount of laughter. all honesty, would you consider a mack today over other brands?

i had the misfortune of team driving in NYC with a "gent " that didn't know how to shift (or drive). empty trailer aiming down hill he had to start out in first and attempt every gear, 10 speed. the trailer weight pushed the unit ; more grinding then i could bear.

way too often is an under statement. one guy i worked for had a 40's merc sled and a late 50's ford van panel truck. wish i had a dollar for every time some one wanted to buy them. He passed away, son told me when they went to move the vehicles both frames buckled in half . such a waste of history.

as with many objectives in life, the best teacher is experience . the 6 speed that was introduced back then for construction vehicles was to give the low hole start out. many drivers were making them 10 speeds. was it right ; NO but it worked for some. you weren't suppose to split shift each main. even the quad had a pattern , didn't mean it had to be followed every shift, do what works for the moment providing clutch wasn't burning .

Alot of truth behind the story of O&G with the switching brands due to a calendar picture. it was huge money back in the day to buy an entire fleet. Mack could have at least put both fleets in. realize there are only 12 months/ pictures and a lot of fleets nation wide . glad it wasn't me that made the decision LOL

there's four names that bring back the memories =St. Johnsbury,Wooster,Holmes -i could see the tractors in my head ,couldn't remember the name. and Adley. my wife was a secretary there . building the first gear b model new england fleet i had 5 Adley combos. like it's been said= as you age can't remember yesterday but can remember yrs back. in todays world who the H--l wants to remember yesterday yrs back was without question better memories

I didn't say go buy one due to fact wasn't aware they are made . that should be an easy fix. would look better also.

hardware store -buy a length of door screen fab a custom "bug screen" that would give you access with a small broom . don't think it's possible on the new iron to do like bulldozers /construction equipt and turn the fan around so it blows air out . more than likely the truck has a plastic fan besides. larger dozers use to have spring loaded blades. remove one section of iron fan shroud to gain access , push down- rotate each blade. air out for summer = air in for "cab heat". NO you didn't turn the AC on in summer; wasn't any! dozer had same AC as the B model. LOL