mechohaulic
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Everything posted by mechohaulic
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783F5395-B9F1-487A-A93A-B7A5363FCDFE.jpeg
mechohaulic commented on Jaws612's gallery image in BMT Member's Gallery - Click here to view our member's albums!
what a beautiful majestic piece of equiptment NO plastic -
valve lash !!!!! my last employer ; a major soda company Co-a Co-a had a fleet supervisor that questioned why the starter was so high up on the engine;; might have something to do with he was looking at the AC compressor. and he was serious think he was in his 30's. in charge of transportation. other side of coin;;; WAY back my foreman at Mack knew Macks and the mechanical world better then anyone; a little known secret was he couldn't read . I learned more and had the most respect till this day for him. had to read to him one day the instructions on a paint can. what a changing world.
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i'm back!! longer road call then should have been . wrong cover. the four bolt cover was for the interaxle divider lock out on the front end.
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hate to leave mid-steam just got phone call ; retired i'm still doing road calls. hopefully back in couple hrs. didn't want you to think i just left.
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i feel like i'm part of a TV awards show 😀. honored my name was included. THANK YOU.
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take a clean pail ; pull gear oil sample from front rear. both axle shafts ?? both from rear rear or all 4 from both rear ends. no big pieces in banjo i would check the front rear axles. as earlier stated jack up one side at a time on front = spin the wheels. have seen axles break clean like machine shop did it. broken axle shows up, you know the "broom handle technic' for axle removal ? saves dropping the broken pieces in housing hopefully eliminating pulling chuck.
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clean around the small side cover plate (4bolts) remove cover . activate the switch== fork should slide . might have to jack up one wheel AFTER you block tires ;;spin the drive shaft. the rear rear drives the truck . auto divider ( has the wedges inside) takes hold when the rear rear spins . have seen the cog slider in the auto dividers split ;; 1 -you don't have an auto divider;;;2- noise would definately be heard.
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air operated power divider. did you take the line off to see if air is coming through?? did you flip dash switch to send air through??? yes on both questions ; possible set screw backed off on slide fork.
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the yoke dirt seals are in the same category as brake drum dust covers. one app they keep out stones; another they hold too much heat in. as mentioned yoke seals have pos/neg depending on app. yoke is being removed for seal replacement, take the dirt seal off if needed don't cut .
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there were many good things being involved in trucks and HD equiptment then. i 'm reading the post of E7 shutting down ; goes back to what i said about the simpler mechanical operation back then.
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you sure know how to make a guy feel old LOL . i was wrench pushing on the day of your birth. 😁😁 each generation guess sees changes . unfortunately the coming changes don't seem positive. remember trucks were way simpler then. there's more wires in one new "junk" then 5-6 B models had. i truly enjoy reading these forums ; just find it difficult to see how the trucks have become like cars with all the electronics. most accessories were able to be in house rebuilds. injection pumps could be tinkered with on limited scale. when factory stated a MB fire truck couldn't have a jake brake, little tinkering had one ,, NO vin number or computer needed.
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way back in the day, most customers didn't need to even put the part on a counter. walk in tell the counter guy what you want for what truck he walked back and returned with the RIGHT part. ask for brake blocks ( use to reline your own), counter guy might ask what grit you want. beyond different today.
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no more likes allowed , do next best thing😄😃😀
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now this topic is waking some dormant brain cells. air clutches use to have basically two treddle pedals on the floor. older UPS F models didn't have a clutch pedal ; treddle pedal for clutch. think i have to confer with another source ;;; hey jack jack daniels .. LOL
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auto slacks first came out , it was critical to have all matching. is it not necessary now? the slacks had a color coded tye wrap . miss match might have one adjusting faster than another. replaced one last week on trailer suspension = couldn't find a color code. correct spline and ctr distance.
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I all too well remember the days of the extended pipe on a breaker bar; every morning i wake up as a matter of fact. my thoughts of the video :1 -no never seize on the bolts on install;2- not even an impact socket on torque multiplier 3- no gloves or back brace; without a doubt a job for pros
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if i'm seeing correctly, the picture is of the rear/rear. not seeing a dif lock housing, shouldn't have air in the rear/rear.
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after clean up, drop the drive shaft , remove hold down bolt , take off the thick "flat washer" replace the hold down bolt leaving very small gap between yoke and bolt. no puller available I kept the excess threaded shaft from brake cans and made pullers or this case a pusher . using fine thread nut or two welded together. heavy flat plate with 4 holes bolt plate to yoke, 5/8 hole in center of plate with threaded rod through. threaded rod pushes against the hold down bolt. i always had the yoke pullers ;;just case ones not there. seal removers saved alot of time also. no need to pull the cover, unless worn parts show.
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i would recommend checking up/down end play (slop) before taking things apart.you can have better idea if it's just bad seal or worn internal parts. second thing ;; cleanliness is Godlyness . clean completely around yoke before attempted removal.won't do any good having the dirt in the bearings. never know i've seen yokes slide off with slight "tapping".
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stated he greased it before =no problem, maybe last grease job was in warm summer weather with a different tube of grease. just sayin, air assist set up doesn't have the return pressure as manual . can't be totally messed up if he moved linkage by hand;; afterwards felt the pushing pressure .
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# 1- a 2021 with 22K is there warranty still there? #2 - as you stated a ok till grease job; what did you use for grease based on the temp in chicago ? wrong heavy grease causing the throw out to drag .
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Based on Your post, is it possible to connect with a museum type organization that can hold/ display this truck till many details You must have can be put in order. I don't think anyone on this forum would want to see any negative happen to You or the vehicle. scammers are always on the prowl for victims. as you stated, your knowledge is limited in terms of the truck with sentiment / emotion making a sell way more difficult. if it were put on display, you can see it and others will appreciate it . then when the moment is right (never actually) it can be sold to the proper new owner.
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Also Sorry for Your loss. i wouldn't want to be in your position, TJC is correct in his statement. value is what someone is willing to pay. when an item has personal ,emotional sentiment how can a dollar value seem fair. after my Father passed and the "clean up" started, a $10.00 item was worth $$$$.yet reality it value was $5.00. tough call for many who have to go through it.
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the red gauge is cycling due to the air leak. far as the vent leak i'll take a shot at the solenoid is malfunctioning . not to knowledgeable on the new truck systems. when shut off the electrical system for ac should be off; fan still works, i'd say system live and shouldn't be. to cycle the system must be large leak.
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707 gas engine rings breaking
mechohaulic replied to mackdump600@yahoo.com's topic in Engine and Transmission
updates are always a positive. one thing i've noticed on this site is with so much helpful information being shared ; rarely see updated messages letting the responders know results of their help.
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