JoeH

Completely different mounting surfaces. No go.

My e7-350 makes peak horse power at 1800 according to the engine plate, pretty sure it's governed higher than 18, never really took notice of governed speed though. Disregarding governed speeds, would this make an e7 pull like a maxidyne? Can the e6 injection pump put out enough fuel to run a 12 liter engine? I believe the maxidynes run a higher oil pressure than typical diesels at low rpms, which allows them to turn so much power as low as 1000 rpm without causing damage from "lugging" the engine. My '79 endt676 makes between 60-90psi at idle. Don't think the e7 makes this kind of oil pressure, that would be a modification required if one wanted to put a maxidyne pump on an e7...

Can an e6 maxidyne fuel pump be mounted on an e7? Just curious, would be nice to capitalize on that extra liter of displacement in the e7. Not sure if an e6 fuel pump can put out enough fuel to make an e7 run like a bigger maxidyne

Try a truck junkyard...

Start by pulling the axles. Splines could be stripped on one. Assuming Mack rears, they have side covers that you can pull off and look inside the differential... If you see metal bits you know where your problem is... If you put the body up and watch the driveshaft does it spin when it's in gear? (Aka is your problem in the tranny)

1/2 inch cable has a min break strength of 21.4k lbs. Not sure what winch is good for, but if you need more strength run a 2 part line.

We usually get "wow that's old. Must be well taken care of to still be running!" They check lights, brake adjustment and we're on our way...

A good reason to have the book! But the forum can be just as good!

Noted; we operate a 15-20 mile radius from our yard, truck only occasionally sees 60mph. It's a '95 with about 245k miles on it. Pads look dry rotted more than anything, but I'll see that we check things over.

It's a 44k bronze bushing. It'll just get cribbed up and the rears lifted off the springs enough to pop the new ones in. I don't expect to be touching the U bolts or bushings. Is that website the Atro pads?

Google Mack engine book 5-101. It will have everything you need to know and then some for that motor. Mine is out in the garage, won't have access to it for a few days to look up the procedure. Not sure if that engine uses flywheel markings or damper wheel markings. We always write with a marker on the damper wheel and put 1/6, 2/5 etc by the corresponding mark. We find TDC by feeling which set of exhaust/intake valves are loose at a given mark. Never pulled an injector out to find TDC.

My '79 does the same thing, always has in the 10 years I've been driving it. It's a pain crawling at an idle, but I don't know of any fix.

Engines normally have marks around 0° for cylinder 1, can be hard to see though with surface rust and dirt buildup. Wire brush it and spray some penetrating oil or something on it to try and get the numbers to pop. Mechanical engines kinda need to have marks to set the fuel timing advance.

Crawled under the truck, shows signs of right intermediate axle sliding on the spring. Looks like the truck is getting elephant pads this spring when the cash flow starts up again!

Sequences are always start in the middle and spiral your way out. Can't help you on torque settings.

Looked at a heavy spec triaxle tractor hooked up to a low boy a few weeks ago in Telford, PA. Truck was in real nice shape, rd688s, etech motor with exhaust side computer tuned to close to 500rwhp. Rebuilt rears and an 18 speed trans in it. L&W Clearing 215) 799 -4092

Wont let me upload pictures. Windows 7 Gives me an error code -200

Year? Model? Engine? Transmission?

Exhaust manifold? Not sure how the mp7 is set up, but on our old e6 motors we just loosen the exhaust manifold nuts and on the new gaskets we cut out the bottom of the bolt holes so they're a horseshoe instead of a full hole. We scrape out the old gaskets as best we can, then drop the new modified gaskets in, all without having to remove exhaust manifold. Manifold gaskets for our e6 engines have a metal layer, a pair of dykes or sheet metal shears works well to cut through. When we bought our e7 350, we had an exhaust manifold leak. Manifold itself had rusted at the gasket surface. Had to take it off and use cast iron welding rod to fill the rust area back in/grind it smooth to fix the leak.

Thanks for the fix! That'll help someone in a few years whos digging for answers!

Unless all your hauling is local

Etech motor? Buy Mack book 5-106 for the mechanical repairs, and book 8-211 for the vmac III codes/repairs/diagnostics. You can hold down the set/decel button (with key on/engine off) to cause it to spit out active fault codes in a 2 digit format. One request spits out one code, hit set/decel for another code. I wouldn't be afraid of it, pending it passing a thorough visual inspection and checking for fault codes, and a test drive. But 350 hp for a tractor is a bit soft IMO...

I think you mean PoorlyBilts and InterTrashionals...

I've never worked on one, I'll have to get the books out to see how they're constructed. I've had problems with wheels spinning in the past, (spoke hubs) but I have them tightened well right now. We've replaced a couple hubs on this truck with broken spokes. Elephant pads look pretty worn out IIRC, so broken dowels as a potential cause caught my attention. It got new torque arms put on when we bought the truck, so I expect it's not them. Plus it doesn't do it all the time.

Not particularly, we never change all 8 drive tires all at once. Only ever do one set of 2 at a time. We've been doing it this way for 30 or 40 years.