davehummell

On my B I did upgrade the truck to help the ride and steering with my injured back and shoulder on my 31 Model A coup I added led tail and turn signal lights for safety and upgraded the steel brake drums to cast drums and modified the stock engine a bit to keep up to traffic on the road. My 32 Ford pickup has disc front brakes upgraded suspension plus a 9 inch Ford rear 302 and a C-4 trans it stops pretty good and it also will keep up with traffic also led turn and taillights

When I installed the newer engine in my B I bought the dry type air cleaner that was a copy of the original oil bath I ordered it from Watts

A good friend's dad had a ford model jeep he restored. When I was young, I used to go camping with the neighbors and they had an old flatfender jeep two of my friends have flatfenders they still use them another neighbor has one stored in his barn for way over thirty years. When I was taking auto repair in tech school I rebuilt an engine from an old flatfender jeep did an 8 N Ford tractor engine too.

I have a new style five gallon plastic gas can and it is the biggest pain to try using I have some older ones that are probably 20 years old, and they work so much easier just a simple spout and a separate vent. Last year I bought a cheap battery powered pump and it real helps at my age putting fuel in my Kubota loader backhoe the fuel filler cap is on top of the hood area and lifting five gallons of diesel up over the steering wheel isn't getting any easier

Many years ago my uncle and I was restoring an old hit and miss engine and the cylinder was rusted really bad so I clamped it onto the carriage of my American lathe and with a boring bar I made I bored the cylinder out and we used a heavy threaded rod and a couple of plates I turned and we pulled the liner in place it would of went easier if we froze the liner I didn't want to move the engine block until I bored the new liner to size for the cast iron piston it turned into a long day time we got done. My one worker did two cycle engine liner replacements I used my freezer and oven on those jobs. I did liner job on an old air cooled Gallaway hit and miss engine we stood it up on my bridgeport and bored it the liner was about 10 or so inches long I was a little tense doing the boring on that job

We used dry ice when needed when I was still at Cleveland brothers many years later I was restoring my Velocette Thruxton motorcycle and I bought a ruff cast cylinder head and I got all the machining done and I went to a guy I knew, and he dipped the valve seats in nitrogen and we stuck them in the aluminum head worked quite well

When I transferred the title over into my name and purchased the antique tag it was an easy process I have Hagerty insurance on the Mack and my 31 model A and my 32 ford hotrod pickup the state quit asking for photos but Hagerty wants the photos of the vehicles in their garage every spring I haul mulch in on the Mack and use it to haul round bales for my goats.

Back when I was still working I noticed most hydraulic fittings brand name ones made in China my friend runs a car repair business and he claim's the parts are spotty for holding up and most rotors you can't cut anymore they are too thin. When I was building my 32 hotrod I went up to Cleveland Bros to get a can of cat cement while I was there, I visited with a guy I used to work with, and he said they changed the formula some time ago and it wasn't as good as it used to be I wanted it for glueing the valve cover gaskets on the ford 302 engine it worked but not as good and it was quite expensive

Back in the early 70's I worked on some International trucks and it was real interesting trying to get the right parts owing to how their system was set up I had better luck ordering parts for Cat equipment. later on, I had really good parts guys to help me get parts for the trucks I worked on I really depended on the guys a Cooks for about 20 plus years plus they were a Mack parts dealer which helped me with the Macks I worked on.

I find it seems the guys that really knew the parts they were selling are long gone and most of the parts pushers don't have a clue and don't care that are at the counters now but one number wrong can be a big problem I remember a guy at Cleveland Bros that ordered a part for a tractor in the dirt shop and got in a track frame for a d-9

Larry I remember back in the dark ages when I first started at the place that ran all R's and F models and one or two had the three filters. My 260 hp was made in 1980 and it had a cartridge filter I swapped it out for the filter setup off a 285 hp and a little bigger pan off another engine that was setting in the junk yard the junkers put a big hole in the oil pan when they pulled the engine that 300 should do you very well I drove an R with a 285 hp that I in chassis over hauled and it did pretty good in that triaxle dump

I have changed some clutches out in the yard with a sheet of plywood it adds to the job when the jack doesn't roll worth a darn

I always used a bottom plate and threaded rod I wore out the treaded rod a time or two just be careful to get the block holes really clean before sliding in the new liners. How bad are the bores? Maybe you can lolly pop the liners, it would be ok if no taper in the bore.

I wanted to get down to the show tomorrow, but my last competitive shoot is tomorrow, and I took home some of the targets to repair so I pretty much have to go, or a bunch of guys will be hunting me down and they shoot long distances. The last car show that I show my 31 model A and my 32 Ford hotrod at is tomorrow also too much stuff going on at the same time

I used to get this stuff at grangers that you sprayed on a gasket, and it loosened it up so scraping it off was a lot easier cleaning the gaskets off cat aluminum oil pans were time consuming and the spacer plates also. I made real good gasket scrapers from the blades off the power hacksaw