Mack Technician

Are they doing a double pump with a face mount? That's a big unit to hang even with a good tail support! Price is too low? They are not going heavy enough spec. Or is it possibly used? Split can be nice in winter if the truck recirculates warm fuel to bulkhead wall and preheats oil. If they put a straight baffle wall in the tank to act as septum they are prone to cracking. If the welder puts a hemisphere section in the tank as septum it will last many years. IOW- cut the end off another tank and install it in the center as the bulkhead divider. Can't explain it, but it holds up... gives flex. If it's a steel tank you can just go thick and straight, aluminum is fussy.

Mismatched on return pipe size, but probably got away with it. Used as a two line so he could have it as a “grocery getter”, hauling firewood once a year with his lowboy truck maybe?

What's going on in the land of "Youbetcha"? Buying trucks? Hanging out with Uncle Ted N.? Drinking Detroit Faygo soda with the Insane Clown Posse? Checking out Ford Motor Company

Pumps don't make pressure, they make flow. Resistance to flow makes pressure and heat. That should be an open center valve set-up, so full flow back to res on both circuits when at rest. Too much GPM will build heat if you have plumbing undersized. Too much oil flowing over a relief (because not matched to the engineered flow rate) will create localized heat at the valve. Generally, you will only be running 15-20 minutes at a time so you won't go critical heat......unless….. you plan on playing "forwarder" for another truck(s)? You can lower the RPM of the truck to reduce flow on an oversize pump, but you will end up going under the minimum recommended input speed for the pump. IOW-don't guess on pump. If you didn't get one with the loader purchase.....get the right one. Are the I.D.'s of the pipes on that trailer two PSI pipes @ 1-1/4" and 1 return pipe @ 2"? Looks like someone routed your stabilizer lines outside the receiver tubes? Can't see how those won't get ripped off?

Going to vote no on CH, maybe on vision. The progressive spread frame on the Granite front would be difficult. Level of determination would play a big roll in the success of your experiment.

Thinking you can’t manually fool V-Mac I or II, even with base timing advance. We cold weather bump a couple degrees, for start up at that advanced base setting...just to get first smoke. Once the econovance pressurizes and begins to hunt and compensate it uses engine position sensors to take you right back to where Mr.Software wants you to be, even with base advanced, so long as you don’t exceed the degrees it can compensate. V-Mac II has the potential to make twice the advertised HP if properly modified. Don’t recommend it, or fully understand how, but I witnessed it.

You would probably end up with a Muncie 828S-M6513-D3A1 PTO in our shop. Go to the Muncie spec assist on the website. You can walk through the set up by answering questions it asks. Really, ethically, the dealer you buy your PTO from is responsible to get you set up. Then you can come back with an oily PTO if you have a problem. You do best at body installers than a Mack dealer. General rule on PTO is go big. You will have a guessing game to figure your torque running through the PTO. We went to 82 series Muncie because when the PTO goes it takes your trans with it. We always used a driveshaft between pump and PTO for log loaders. The pump your going to use is a bit large and will likely never come with a face mount option. On a 2100 the PTO window uses 5th/10th gear. We installed to left front trans window, seemed like chassis favors it on most trucks. If your three line I'd bet a double-gear pump running 2,700 PSI with around 30/30 GPM or 25/25 GPM, 55 gallon res. Like the top mounted Jib-boom cylinder design, save a lot of ding'ed up chrome rods. Heavy to haul, but the reaction link is similar to what Volvo uses in a lot of apps.

What size log loader and pump fit is a must know? You need to figure out your flow/pressure demands to know percentage for Pto. Pump direct mounted to pto? Pto driveshaft otherwise? Etc...

We discovered the cure for injector cup leakage. Don't ask the engine to put out more than *400 horsepower. Four D13's, no injectors replaced to date, 330 horsepower. Shooting for 25,000 hours without a cup or injector failure on the oldest machine, it's starting to get an audible injector "pock" under load, but still performing on original 6.

Clever use of what you have Joe. At the end of the day you don’t have a flow pump tool sitting in your way (fuel rotting) till you need it again in 6 years.

Never used air, that’s new to me. We had an electric flow pump loop set-up and that was what I was taught as the single method. It’s been 12 years....., but didn’t you guys also remove the puff limiter and jig it with the solid preset dummy?

A shot of Green Loctite couldn’t hurt.

Had a road call for a guy who need me to time a pump he installed. The port closure was screwing up and machine wasn't doing it for me. Called my shops "Mack old timer" and stepped through it again with him, having done it myself a dozen times. I was doing it right, but something was wrong with either my side or the pump side. Told customer you need to let us return tomorrow morning to complete this once we figure out what's going on. He was the shop's mechanic, he was watching me the whole time. Next morning he called and said "don't come, I got it going, runs great". I asked what he did. He said "I got it set using the priming pump". Two weeks later I was replacing his piston that had a hole burned through it. He made the situation much worse. Make sure you get it right.

Click on...…

Who would pay $$$$ for a truck that was rolled over onto a 4 year old who became a reanimated, murderous, mini-zombie...… unless it was a Mack Superliner.

Pull the oil pump relief cartridge. If it’s galled clean it with a fine grit. Check the seating face seal taper. View it as valves in a head.... is it clean? and even halo where it engages the seat? no erosion or pits? Keep a sample of the oil and send it in to see if you have presence of soft metals. If your pressure is low, and your pump looks ok, you may have spun, and may not especially be main bearings. Pump’s rotating group rarely fails, have seen parts of pump fail on multiple occasions. Lot of folks buying junk engines these days sold by people who oil test. In other words “people who know exactly when to sell”.

Pull the front driveshaft off the front diff. Split the power divider case by removing flange bolts. Inspect and replace inner cam and peanuts. Outer cam is seldom bad. Reassemble with two rubber bands holding peanuts into cage, rotate slightly as you engage. Clean magnet tray. Fill power divider before running.

Interference fit. I’ve always pounded them out with a punch. Not always fun. Imagine #6 is nearly impossible to get a decent swing on.

I'd check oil pressure spec, I'd run a continuity checker to the pump switch to visibly watch when my pump position sensor is opening/closing relative to heads coming in and out of function (maybe even a makeshift test light), adjust overhead brake according to attached sheet and last, (if that didn't help) install a rebuild kit/update if they still make them. Timber.pdf

From the title..... does that mean the E-brake starts becoming intermittent above 1,500 and gets worse as RPM's descend, or the E-brake is only intermittent above 1,500 but stable at lower engine speeds?

Project Grape Vine must be a truck so sweet that you travel hundreds of miles and don’t speak of it on BMT till you hands are on the hood and cash is down on the accepted offer.

From the folks up here.....

Yes and no. I figured the “nerve food” would allow me to dance confidently like the Gumby brother on the video. No such luck. I instead danced more confidently......but like Forest Gump. Hope that answers your question?