tjc transport

so true. i tried registering a 2014 F250 for 10,999 lbs. the idiot behind the desk asked me why so much. my answer was because the truck weighs 8,200 pounds EMPTY. same with the new F150. DMV idiots put it at 5,000 pounds. the truck weighs 5,500 pounds empty.

nope, no city here. we are in our own little world that even the people on the other side of town do not even know exists. the closest city is perth amboy. about 5 miles north across the bay, or 10 by road.

not to worry Paul, with the way we derail threads, we dont know what we are talking about either.

about all i cam add is a quick google search showed there are a few electric motors for sale for $242.

sorry, no. i have not been in a DM in a good 30 years.

maybe if you live along the pa border. for me a trip to pa is AT LEAST 1 1/2 hour one way..

very cool. is it a twin drive, or single drive with helper axle?

hopefully all of them? if you remove everything the lib tards have, maybe....just maybe, they will realize THEY are the problem, nd not the rest of us.

do you have any info on this Strike Technology retro fit kit? google search comes back with a big blank nothing.

maybe they were discussing what to do with pedo joe and clan.

we had the same issue on the 2005 T800 Kenworth with C-13 Cat. never had a leak. then within 3 months time had to replace every single damn hose on it. fix one, and a week later another started leaking. the only hoses not replaced were the trans cooler lines....and when the guy that bought it was waiting for me to get home from work to pick it up, one of them blew as i pulled the parking break for the last time.

that is a pretty good unit. when you get it running, turn the fuel valve off and see if it shuts off, or stays running until the carb runs dry. if it does not stay running open the cover and unplug the kill switch hooked to the fuel shutoff. this way you can let it run and drain the carb after use before you put it away. ALWAYS put it away with a dry carb.

agreed. it is unbelievable how many people ask me about those "as seen on TV" solar generators because i have 7 different size generators. i try to explain they are not generators. they are battery packs. and if it is "as seen on TV" it is about as useless as teets on a bull.

not sure if it is the same as the "R" but i ran many DM's with electric wipers.

if the gas in the tank is more than about 2 months old, it most likely will not start. i put a double dose of marine stabil, and a double dose of regular stabil in with 1 gallon of gas and i get about 6-8 months out of the gas.

Joey, has anyone told you lately you are the southbound facing side of a northbound facing horse? 😁

first thing that comes to mind is release the pressure from the coolant system after shutdown when parking. this would reduce coolant being pressure forced out of the system. then as Joey said, do a cold engine coolant pressure test on the clean engine to see if you can find any leaks.

and i guarantee he will screw that up too!!

so hiring people that are not qualified to do the job makes the city safer??

yes, the 4 wire separates the ground from neutral. which then get reconnected in the power panel. the big unit is hooked directly to the house with an automatic transfer switch. before that i used to connect the "portable" sets through the mig welder plug in the garage. turn main breaker off, connect generator, then fire it up. once street power came back on i would shut generator off, unplug it, and then turn main back on. this setup is not legal, but safe if done correctly.

zuckaduck is just like every other lib tard. i dont trust ANYTHING any of them say.

when figuring out what size generator you need, you have to look at use. is the house all electric, or all gas? a gas oven/cooktop, furnace, water heater, and clothes drier you could get away with a 10 KW set. for a house with electric oven/cooktop, electric hot water heater, and electric heat, you will want a larger unit, in the 15+ KW range. i went with the 17.5 KW unit because of the 50 amp plasma cutter, 5 HP 240 air compressor, and Lincoln 215 power mig in the shop. the house itself is all gas appliances, so only electric use is AC, fridge, freezer, computer and lights. i have run the house in winter off a 5 KW set. but for summer use with AC i would want at least 10 KW.

i used to have a hitch mount carrier. my old scooter would come apart into 5 pieces, none heavier than 50 pounds... and that was the battery pack. took about two minutes to take apart, and about 5 to put together. the new one is one piece, but i have the 16 foot enclosed trailer to just drive it in. the old one had top speed of 7 MPH, with rheostat speed control. so it would do any speed you want. the new one is computerized. and has two speed settings. low and high. low is 7 mph, high is 14 mph. and let me tell ya, 14 does not sound fast until you are sitting in the open 18 inches off the ground on three wheels.

my 17.5KW is a RDJF, the king of the Onan diesels. it came from North Bergen DPW. it was the backup power plant for the high pressure sewer pump . never used for anything but run time once a month for 5 minutes a month, for 40 years. power went out ONCE in the 40 years it was in service, and it ran for 2 hours. the other 4 hours were put on it by the guy i got it from. he bought it from the town to use in an automotive shop he was starting. was there 6 months when the building owner sold it and the new owner kicked him out. the new building he found already had a generator, so he no longer needed this one

ya need a three wheel mobility scooter. otherwise known as an old man cart. 😁 with me bad knee and hip i am only good for about 1/2 hour walking, but with the 15 mile range on the scooter i can go 2 days without charging it.