Mackpro

Last Friday I did my first test with my Mass Flow "fooler" and it did not work. Even with the correct ohm resistors installed it came back "open circuit" on the Mass Flow sensor. But I will not give up. Blocking off the EGR valve is somewhat easy. but I want to remove everything to save weight, I started to weigh every part that makes up the EGR system and it is close to 60 pounds of crap that we could remove from the engine. This week might be slow enough I can mess with it some more.

It could be done, what you will try to do is change the engine over to a CCRS ETECH style engine, but your looking at a complete engine wiring harness, exhaust manifold, new engine ECM, intake manifold off of an AI engine (for EMC mounting) and possible all 6 new EUP's and possible new VECU. Then your looking at 2 or more days to install all the parts then at least a day of programing to make it all work then who knows what actual HP will be due to different camshaft and compression ratio between the two engines.

We always set pump timing at least 1 degree above what it says on the valve cover. 1 and 1/2 is great but the closer you get to 2 it will start to get hot. I'm thinking the same as FJH , boost/ intake issues.

Found the bulletin but cant get the chart to appear, if need any more info I can e-mail it to anyone who needs it. DATE: 05/28/02 MODEL: E-TECH™ PRE-CCRS/CCRS Title: OFFSET CAMSHAFT KEYS FOR E-TECH™ ENGINES Offset Camshaft Keys For E-Tech™ Engines (Also Applies to Mack Trucks Australia) (Supersedes Bulletin SB-213-018 dated 2/29/00) To optimize camshaft timing for certain E-Tech™ pre-CCRS engine models, an offset type camshaft key (part No. 54GC29) has been developed. This key provides a cam gear offset of 1 degree cam/2 degrees engine from the straight key position. The offset key is color coded (with one end of the key painted white, and the other end painted red) and is installed with the offset either to the right (cam timing retarded) or to the left (cam timing advanced). The offset style key was released into production during June 1997 for E-Tech™ E7-427 and E7-460 engine models (beginning with engine serial number series 7M) and during January 1998 for certain other E-Tech™ engine models (beginning with engine serial number series 8A). Correct camshaft key offset installation is dependent upon engine horsepower ratings. When utilizing the offset key, it must be installed with the proper color facing front. The figure below illustrates the E-Tech™ cam gear keys and their identifying features. If a key has lost its paint markings, it can be properly installed by placing the offset (as viewed from the front) in the direction shown below. Refer to the chart on page 2 for the various key applications. Straight camshaft keys (43AX9) are used on all E-Tech™ CCRS engines regardless of horsepower.

I was actually messing with my Mass flow resistors today. Its been so crazy around here and been stuck on to many big jobs, not enough hr in the day to get them done. I did have a 2004 in today that was running fine but had a active for the EGR valve, found the EGR cooler plugged solid, thought about leaving it plugged (same as a EGR valve block off plate) but customer wanted it cleaned or replaced, filled it full of mineral sprits for 3 hrs the steam cleaned out, all OK. The code wasnt putting it in limp mode just letting you know that the EGR measured flow didnt match the target flow ( has to be off by 10 lbs). That what I have been playing with to fool the ECM into think it does have just enough flow to keep the code from becoming active. I cant wait to hear your results.

Probably not to many RB's with 460 ETECHs in them running around? if you know of any , ask to raise the hood and measure the diameter of W/P pully or ask the local Mack dealer to pull one off the shelf and measure and compare it to what you have on the truck . I have seen wrong parts put in the right box, gotta remember we now have Volvo in charge so anything is possible. Maybe a slipping water pump impeller, rare but it has happened. Also I saw a lower crank pully so wore out that the V-belts were sinking to the bottom and not grabbing good when tight, long shot though. Mack used to make lower temp thermostats but our parts guys here only keep the standard one (180 I think). I does have a thermostat in it I hope.

Its a off-set key way that goes on the cam gear. Retards the cam timing 1/2 degree. On the first series of ETECH engines 350-400 HP had straight key way, 427-460 HP off set retarded and 275-300 HP had off set advanced. When doing a HP conversion up 427-460 we had to pull the camshaft and press the gear off and install the off set key way. I have seen CL trucks get by with out changing the keyway due to large radiator but I have personal experiance with an RD that we tried without changing the keyway, it was back before summer to have it installed. Customer was tring to save money but had to do it after all. I have a service bulletin on it here some where, will post it when I find it. The ETECH CCRS series (starting around 2002) engine all used straight keyway's regardless of HP.

We sold a new RD or Rb or mabe a R688S many years ago (mech fuel pump) and it ran hot since new, Mack sent an engineer down to help us find the problem and turns out Mack put te wrong water pump on, even in the parts book/micro fich it listed the wrong part#. (micro-fich= along time ago). I did find a shop rag in an oil cooler one time and yes it made it run hot.

Most all 1992 CH's had electronic fuel pumps, if it does, it really needs to have the idle set with a computer/Mack dealer. Is the throttle pedal have a linkage rod (manual pump)going to it or electrical wires/plug. If it is a electronic pump/throttle pedal the idle can be raised but I'll have to find it in the book and post it here.

Did it come from the factory as a 460HP? If it came orignally as a 350/400HP and someone bumped the HP up and didn't change the camshaft keyway it will overheat in the summer time. I know I have done it. If it was orignally a 460HP did it just start doing this? I have seen the wrong water pump put on and the truck over heats (pully to small or to big).

That time is about what Mack pays us on warranty but in real life it could take longer. I'm thinking about 4 hr.

Did it put oil in the radiator/coolant? Also I assume it the round tube style and not the newer square box style? I can look it up in my warranty labor code/time in the morning.

We mostly had the problems with the CHU model trucks however I have heard the the CXU truck could have it too. All the ones I heard of had MP8 engines. The Mack engineer I talked to said it was a "hamonic vibration" from the engine and the cab "soaked" it up. All of those engineers are gone from Mack now since the big move from Allentown. One small note, one of the CHU's still had a slight vibration after we installed all the new parts, it was later that we found out it had a out of balance drive shaft. Here is a E-mail from Mack back on 2/12/08. I received your voicemail regarding the CHU613 unit with the vibration complaint. Jim Gallagher is correct we have seen this issue before in which there is a reoccurring resonant vibration in the cab while under a load in mid to high range gears (at approx. 40-60mph). Here is a parts list that you will need based on a 300mm frame and “AL” suspension (see below). If you have any questions – let me know. Rear Suspension AL461 – AL401 300mm Frame Part Number Qty Front Cab Mounts 30QS4590M 2 Shelf Bracket L.H - 300 30QS4617M 1 Shelf Bracket R.H - 300 30QS4617M2 1 Upper Frame Tie - 300 30QS4619M 1 Upper frame Tie Bolts 27AM16 4 Upper Frame Tie Nuts 191AM4 4 Rear Engine Mounts 20QL414M 1 Front Drive Axle Seats N/A N/A Rear Drive Axle seats N/A N/A Edge Shocks 4000-60675001 4 Upper Sleeve N/A N/A Upper Sleeve N/A N/A Lower Sleeve N/A N/A Thanks,

I have to correct myself, they are titled as "salvage".

Nobody around here really checks anything as far as emissions go and the truck never leave a 75 mile radius from home.

They use the orignal VIN as on the cab and frame rail. He has clear titles as I have copies of 2 titles of the last 2 trucks he just built. We are doing HP conversions next week to bump them up to 460, these 2 have 2000 E-TECHs in them.

Kinda but no, a guy I know buys the cab, hood and frame from a company that strips down new Macks and builds military vechicles using the Mack engine, trans and axles. He then buys the rest and builds the truck with what ever Mack engine/trans/axles the customer wants.

Had a nice and clean CV713 come in today for some trans work. Raised the hood and found a 2 Valve Head engine in there. It looked like it was done correctly with all Mack parts and mounts. Wish they were all that easy to work on. It had a 1989 CH dash and all the guages worked.

All the info is stored in the VECU not in the dash cluster. If you replace the dash cluster the stored info will show up on the new cluster. We do replace alot of dash clusters but none for that reason. I'll search my Mack service bulletins for dash cluster issues.

Your safe on this one, Its a common Mack screw but not used anywhere inside the engine.

Yes. post a pic. is the bolt complete/not broken? Does it have a flange/made on washer?

To save money you could do it your self, it's really not that hard but I have done so many so it seems easy to me. Mack says no-no on the reuse of the fuel lines but this is for liablity reasons (alot of AC engines caught fire due to reused lines). Any time we do one under warranty we use all new everything and follow the newest service bulletins. But when we have one not covered by warranty and the customer is dirt poor, we have just slipped in some new gaskets and reused the fuel lines. If you mark the line with the location and install it back in the same hole most time it wont leak. We do a long test drive to make sure (25mile). The real problem gaskets/studs is #3 and #4. If it has the new style studs on those 2 locations I see no reason to change them all if it was my money.

From what I have seen , when the turbo makes a "squeal" during high boost it is usually a turbo gasket or the intake manifold gaskets. I know you have been through this before but the smaller the leak the louder the noise. All the exhaust back pressure in the exhaust manifold trying to spin the turbo puts a real strain on the gaskets. Make sure all your turbo nuts and manifold nuts/studs are there. I have already seen the new style/ new fix stud/spacer fail on some Tyson trucks.

This is all I could really find on the subject. Mack Service Bulletin Date: 11/04/08 Model: ASET™ AC, AI, AMI (Also applies to Mack Trucks Australia) Oil Cooler Coolant Inlet Screen Replacement (November 2008) A screen (part No. 387GC32) is incorporated into the Y-shaped hose at the oil cooler inlet on ASET™ AC, AI and AMI engines. This screen is designed to trap debris which may be circulating in the cooling system. Over time, this screen can become plugged with debris, resulting in restricted coolant flow and possible damage to cooling system components and/or the EGR cooler. Oil Cooler Coolant Inlet Screen 1. Oil Cooler Coolant Inlet Screen (Part No. 387GC32) Anytime the cooling system is drained for any reason, such as cooling system repair, maintenance or the regular coolant drain intervals, the oil cooler coolant inlet screen must be replaced with a new screen.

When the parts people look up your truck, it will only show the part # of the pipe that came on the truck. Your only hope is to find another CTP with a a chrome pipe and get the VIN# and have the parts guys look that truck up and get the part#. I have a CTP on the lot here and just went out and checked it but it was not chrome. Your dealers parts guy might send in a parts E-service to Mack Specs and see if Mack could tell them the part# if they even make one in chrome.