Mackpro
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Everything posted by Mackpro
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1996 mack ch613 e7 cranks but no start
Mackpro replied to southside's topic in Engine and Transmission
I forgot, being a 96 it's a VMAC-2 with 1 ECM. I have attached the VMAC-2 troubleshooting service manual but sadly there is no "Crank no start" troubleshooting info in it like the VMAC1 and 3 manuals. It does have some ECM info in there though. VMAC 2 manual.pdf -
1996 mack ch613 e7 cranks but no start
Mackpro replied to southside's topic in Engine and Transmission
Jump across the big solinoid in the fuse box ( assuming its a pre-ETECH truck). That should power up both ECM's -
Looks like DPF Diff sensor showing high soot, Look at MID 128 PID 81 FMI 12 2008 MID fault codes.pdf
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If you can't shut off engine and the throttle pedal won't work and your idling at 900 rpm , the vehicle control unit VECU has lost coms with the engine ECM on the 1939 data line yellow and green twisted wires
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Install some coolant shut off valves on the heater hoses on the engine if you don't already have them, it should help a lot.
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manual to electrionic speedo
Mackpro replied to superdog405's topic in Electrical, Electronics and Lighting
Speedometer older models.pdf -
Part # is 243AX6F
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It's push on fuel return line. The very early 98/99 ETECH engine has them coming off the back head. They later moved the fitting to the front head.
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I remember replacing lots of the copper pump washers on the early Robert Bosch pumps. The new replacement washer was steel. I still have the socket for it. The later pumps had no washers at all
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Pressure regulator part # is 21458307. Its located in front of head facing fan. Takes a 7/8" wrench to remove. Other possible causes, injector cups or fuel filter stand
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We see alot of early ETECH air compressors fail due to clogged coolant port on rear of engine . If the head of the air compressor is rusty and looks like the paint is cooked off of it then the head gasket of the compressor could be blown causing coolant push.
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air compressor coolant lines.pdf
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coolant temp sensors ETECH.pdf
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At the back of the water manifold on the LH side of engine. See if you have 2 temp sensors. One should face straight out the back towards the firewall and one out the side towards the frame/hood. If you do have two. The one out the back goes the the engine ECM and the one out the side goes to the guage. If your not getting fault codes and shutting down then the sending unit /wiring for the guage might be bad.
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If your on 2 lane roads most of the time , I'd say it's about perfect. If your mostly on 70+ mph interstate, I would want some higher rear gears( lower number) to lower my rpm's for fuel mileage,
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All this gun talk makes me think of my other hobby. I spend 8-12 hours a day working on trucks 5 days a week. The summer weekends are spent on the lake boating. The 3rd thing that takes up a lot of my time is being at the gun range. There is a nice small private gun club less than 10 minutes from my house. Most days I'm the only one out there. It's quite relaxing to lay some lead down , a little fireball action the other day!
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The 2003 in 460 HP was a pain as well. The 427 and lower HP's were great. Also as you have figured out 2004 was not good in a CX and CH. In 2005 the CXN and CHN came out and got much better.
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I thought it was high soot level but wanted to get to work where I could look it up and be for sure . Hope you got it figured out.
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What year model? ETECH, CCRS and the two different ASET engines (AI and AC) all are difffernt in what needs to be changed or not changed in doing HP upgrades. Model of truck and last 6 of the VIN and I can tell you in the morning
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I dont know about export but in the year model 1997 you could still get manual fuel pump E-7 engines as well as the VMAC1 and 2 electronic pump engines. In the year model 1998 you could also get the manual pump E-5 engine too. There are somehow, some export MP-8 engines running around here with no EGR, DPF or DEF
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Turckster is right . Your EGR valve should only have 2 lines going to it. One from the back and one up from the bottom. If it has a extra line on the bottom ( steel braided drain tube) then I would change it, The ones with the drain tube gave us lots of issuses. EGR valve no drain tube.pdf
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You got something going on for sure. Let me do some digging in the morning. Did you ever have any injector fault codes for this truck? If so , what were the FMI's?
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You do a "cylinder balance test" in Tech Tool. Sometimes it shows a bad cylinder thats hard to find.
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Yes , thats normal, the EGR Valve is not air tight , even when new. The air comes back around into the exhaust manifold. I wonder if the truck has an engine brake? The brake pistons could be backing out but you should have noticed it while adjusting the valves. Engine Brake piston.pdf
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