Mackpro

Glad you found the problem and posted the fix . Yours being a common rail engine a couple of things we see with ours are clogged fuel filter inlet and the EPRV on the fuel rail sticking . The bad thing about the first few years of common rail engines is that they deleted the fuel pressure sensor. You either had to hook up a mechanical guage and read it or do a regen and watch the AHI after treatment fuel pressure with the laptop. I believe the 2023 models are back to having the fuel pressure sensor back on them . A bulletin just came out about adding the sensor to some year models. As far as low fuel pressure, remove the rear fuel filter and look on the bottom of the fuel filter housing and using a Phillips screw driver remove the orange flapper and spring and clean out the fuel inlet. Found lots with trash hanging out of the flapper valve . Mack/Volvo figured out that the common rail engines didn’t need the Electronic pressure regulator valve on the fuel rail and due to issues with them failing and causing low power complaints, they came out with a delete kit for the EPRV . This has to be done at the dealership due to engine ecm programing . We had all our truck done and now more issues.

In your dash cluster go to gauges, then pressure gauges and scroll down to boost/turbo pressure. With loaded trailer and in a hard pull you should be seeing 30-35 psi. Have you changed tire size? Top and or bottom row of the after coolers are know to split on thoses. Injectors could be worn out . Turbo caked up with soot internally. Lots of possibilities,

Yours is a 330/350 Hp with the straight keyway. You need the off set keyway , off set right white showing. The software change is only in the engine ecm.

Check/replace the flasher . It’s in the fuse box on top of the dash . It’s to the left of alll the small fuses , its square and tall and has only 2 prongs. It could possibly be melted and stuck to the fuse box , this was a common problem and there was even a recall about it . Use only a Mack flasher as it has longer prongs to reach through the thick fuse panel housing . Aftermarket flashers have shorter prongs and barley reach the wires to make contact. This caused a poor connection and it would over heat and melt the flasher to the fuse box housing .

There are 2 types of copper cups. The 04 emissions MP7’s had the raised bead in the bottom. The 07 emissions MP7 and MP8 had the flat bottom with the washer on the injector. You can get the tools on Amazon for a quarter of the cost than the ones from Mack. However I like the Mack tools way better if you are going to use it several times .

They will actually bolt on but as Joe said it’s all good till you try to put the push tubes on . I’ve tried it .

Make sure battery cables are tight on batteries and starter first. In my notes for this code , check wires on ground breaker and auxiliary starter solenoid on the outside of the firewall by the wiper motor. The ground break will be rectangular shape with black wires , right next to it is the round shaped auxiliary starter solenoid with red wires, make sure they are tight . But be careful on thoses two as over tightening can break them easily. Lastly, unplug the 2 or 3 connectors ( if you have a ASET AC engine) on the engine ecm and check for coolant in the connector and rotten pins ,

The CCRS series engine were only made from 2001.5 to around 2003.5 right before the ASET engines came out. They had no EGR or VGT turbo like the ASET AC engines. Only the CCRS 460 had a mechanical wastegated turbo. Lower HP’s used a regular turbo. The CCRS engines were pretty much a ASET AI engine but without the EGR bump on the camshaft. They had the free flowing exhaust manifold of the ETECH. The CCRS used the same EUP’s as the AI ASET and had a straight camshaft keyway regardless of HP like the ASET family. The CCRS 427 was my favorite engine.

2001 is a tricky year model, I have seen regular ETECH and CCRS ETECH‘s in 2001 trucks. If it’s a regular ETECH then a 460 program can be installed by a dealership with no hardware changes as all the parts are the same between the 427 and 460. If it’s a CCRS then I would not bump it to 460 because you have to change to the problematic waste gated turbo and you have to install a boost pressure sensor if not already installed. The 460 CCRS program looks at boost closely and if over boosting then it derates. And under boosting it derates. Narrow window of boost range to run good .

There just a few problems areas with the CTP and CXP trucks/engine. The exhaust temp sensor never lasted more than a month and Mack couldn’t find any one to build a good one so they came out with a delete kit . To remove it and the guage and a data file so it would set any more fault codes. Another issue was the EGR mass flow sensor always going bad. Mack borrowed this sensor from the ASET AC engine and one drop of water/coolant would wipe it out. There was a EECU download to raise the EGR opening temp higher to allow condensation in the EGR cooler to burn off before it got pushed through the mass flow sensor. I really didn’t help much as they still go out quite often.

Not sure on the amperage but make sure it’s a constant voltage one and not a Ford tractor starter solenoid like I’ve seen a lot of people try to use, they don’t last a day.

The 395 HP download upgrade would help with the power. Every CTP we sold we made sure it was spec’ed at 395 or turned to 395 when we sold them. The CXP’s with the exact same engine we made sure they were the 405 HP software. The 395 put out quit abit more torque than the 405 and the torque curve was suited to the vocational work of the CTP

My buddy bought 9 of the CTP713’s and they are all still on the road working every day. Some of his were some of the earliest serial numbers in the 0014** with build dates in May of 2006 and he took delivery in middle of July. His last one was in the 0053** serial number range built in 12/20/06 and delivered in January 2007. I kept lots of notes on serial numbers and models through the years . I had heard all kinds of rumors , such as long as the engine was built in 2006 they could still install them in chassis built in 2007 but the number was limited.

There was a guy on here from Nashville that raced a 2007 MP7 that was pushing 600 HP . I think his name was Staxx. Don’t see him on here anymore sadly.

I’m interested as well . I remember years ago doing a mild bump up to a buddy’s dump truck , I called the guys at Rochester Diesel for some injector advice, super nice guys and learned a lot from them . Injectors, turbo , pump timing and cam timing would need to be perfect to get reliable 600 hp but I think it could be done . A high torque clutch and trans would be a must!

All the ones I have ever seen get hot , really hot. The original ones were good but then Mack changed suppliers and the quality went down hill. I think they went through 4-5 different suppliers/styles before the ones they sell now. I remember changing them out once a month till we finally got some better ones.

Sorry for the late reply but last time I looked up the parts ( about8 months ago) most of the parts were not available. I had friends buying junkyard ECM’s to keep their VMAC 1 farm trucks running.

People think steering shaft u-joints should be lined up perfectly like drive line u-joints. They should not be lined up. If you line them up , they all break over at the same time causing the easy-hard-easy -hard feeling in the steering wheel. Also If you have the set up with a bearing bracket mounted on the steering gear . There should be a sliding collar under the bearing with a set screw. Loosen the set screw and slide the collar down a little to ease up the pressure on the bearing and try . I always mark every piece before I disassemble because I’ve put several back together and had the same problem.

If you have a air fan clutch it’s mounted on the middle of the firewall , you can follow the air line from the fan clutch to it .

Also don’t put a regular ETECH (1998.5-2001.5) cam in an AI engine. You will have very low power. I know because I did it . Back in around 2002 I was doing 3 to 4 camshaft jobs a week and a new MR came in with a cam down. The parts guys threw me a cam kit not realizing it was a AI engine. What really sucked it was a MR garbage truck

Here is the Mack service bulletin SB 213035 for camshaft part numbers per engine https://dokumen.tips/documents/service-bulletin-mckenzie-tank-service-bulletin-number-sb-213-035-date-12003.html?page=1

The AI and the 2001.5-2003.5 year model CCRS engines use the same EUP’s so in theory this should work and not have the internal EGR bump on the exhaust lobe of the AI engine. The only concern is if you have the Powerleash brake then I don’t know if it would work with the CCRS camshaft. I have heard that you can use a AC ASET cam in a AI but the difference in EUP part numbers make we wonder. They only make 3 different EUP’s . One for early ETECH, one for CCRS and AI then one for the AC engine. I’ll see if I can find some camshaft bulletins with part numbers and post them here

The filter wrench I use is the K-D 2320 , ive had it for about 34 years and is used almost daily, I believe the model number has changed to a newer number and have seen them on Amazon. On the side it says “ Fits 4 1/8” to 4 21/32” filters”. The band on mine is only 1 1/2” wide . The newer ones are around 2” wide and can cause clearance issues on some trucks

Replaced lots and lots of the oil thermostats on MP7 and MP8’s. But never replaced the piston cooling thermostats that comes in from the bottom. Sometimes the oil cooler thermostat shorts out and also sets a code for the piston cooling thermostat because the share some of the same wiring, I know the newer common rail trucks we have , have a separate fuse just for both of the thermostats. And by thermostats I mean solenoid’s. I’m actually replacing a oil thermostat in a 2015 MP 8 today

This was the only thing I was thinking. I’ve seen this happen on the turbo actuator connection but not the turbo speed sensor. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2012/SB-10044247-9335.pdf