Mackpro

The 395 HP download upgrade would help with the power. Every CTP we sold we made sure it was spec’ed at 395 or turned to 395 when we sold them. The CXP’s with the exact same engine we made sure they were the 405 HP software. The 395 put out quit abit more torque than the 405 and the torque curve was suited to the vocational work of the CTP

My buddy bought 9 of the CTP713’s and they are all still on the road working every day. Some of his were some of the earliest serial numbers in the 0014** with build dates in May of 2006 and he took delivery in middle of July. His last one was in the 0053** serial number range built in 12/20/06 and delivered in January 2007. I kept lots of notes on serial numbers and models through the years . I had heard all kinds of rumors , such as long as the engine was built in 2006 they could still install them in chassis built in 2007 but the number was limited.

There was a guy on here from Nashville that raced a 2007 MP7 that was pushing 600 HP . I think his name was Staxx. Don’t see him on here anymore sadly.

I’m interested as well . I remember years ago doing a mild bump up to a buddy’s dump truck , I called the guys at Rochester Diesel for some injector advice, super nice guys and learned a lot from them . Injectors, turbo , pump timing and cam timing would need to be perfect to get reliable 600 hp but I think it could be done . A high torque clutch and trans would be a must!

All the ones I have ever seen get hot , really hot. The original ones were good but then Mack changed suppliers and the quality went down hill. I think they went through 4-5 different suppliers/styles before the ones they sell now. I remember changing them out once a month till we finally got some better ones.

Sorry for the late reply but last time I looked up the parts ( about8 months ago) most of the parts were not available. I had friends buying junkyard ECM’s to keep their VMAC 1 farm trucks running.

People think steering shaft u-joints should be lined up perfectly like drive line u-joints. They should not be lined up. If you line them up , they all break over at the same time causing the easy-hard-easy -hard feeling in the steering wheel. Also If you have the set up with a bearing bracket mounted on the steering gear . There should be a sliding collar under the bearing with a set screw. Loosen the set screw and slide the collar down a little to ease up the pressure on the bearing and try . I always mark every piece before I disassemble because I’ve put several back together and had the same problem.

If you have a air fan clutch it’s mounted on the middle of the firewall , you can follow the air line from the fan clutch to it .

Also don’t put a regular ETECH (1998.5-2001.5) cam in an AI engine. You will have very low power. I know because I did it . Back in around 2002 I was doing 3 to 4 camshaft jobs a week and a new MR came in with a cam down. The parts guys threw me a cam kit not realizing it was a AI engine. What really sucked it was a MR garbage truck

Here is the Mack service bulletin SB 213035 for camshaft part numbers per engine https://dokumen.tips/documents/service-bulletin-mckenzie-tank-service-bulletin-number-sb-213-035-date-12003.html?page=1

The AI and the 2001.5-2003.5 year model CCRS engines use the same EUP’s so in theory this should work and not have the internal EGR bump on the exhaust lobe of the AI engine. The only concern is if you have the Powerleash brake then I don’t know if it would work with the CCRS camshaft. I have heard that you can use a AC ASET cam in a AI but the difference in EUP part numbers make we wonder. They only make 3 different EUP’s . One for early ETECH, one for CCRS and AI then one for the AC engine. I’ll see if I can find some camshaft bulletins with part numbers and post them here

The filter wrench I use is the K-D 2320 , ive had it for about 34 years and is used almost daily, I believe the model number has changed to a newer number and have seen them on Amazon. On the side it says “ Fits 4 1/8” to 4 21/32” filters”. The band on mine is only 1 1/2” wide . The newer ones are around 2” wide and can cause clearance issues on some trucks

Replaced lots and lots of the oil thermostats on MP7 and MP8’s. But never replaced the piston cooling thermostats that comes in from the bottom. Sometimes the oil cooler thermostat shorts out and also sets a code for the piston cooling thermostat because the share some of the same wiring, I know the newer common rail trucks we have , have a separate fuse just for both of the thermostats. And by thermostats I mean solenoid’s. I’m actually replacing a oil thermostat in a 2015 MP 8 today

This was the only thing I was thinking. I’ve seen this happen on the turbo actuator connection but not the turbo speed sensor. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2012/SB-10044247-9335.pdf

I had a buddy pull up that VIN it it is a 460P with 480 HP. It came that way from the factory. Both the VECU and EECU both have software updates for them . The VECU is at Step12 and can be flashed to 12B . The EECU is at Step4 and can be reflashed to Step5 . This can help with turbo lag and poor throttle response. The 4.33 gears would be good for heavy hauling I would thing . The dealership has to do the software updates

That’s looks to be a Vehicle data file for the VECU which does not determine engine HP. The VECU and engine ecm (EECU) both have various software part numbers for vechicle type and options and engine type. Then there is the data files that go ontop of the software that determine exact things like VIN number and engine serial number and horsepower. A engine data file for a 2005 AC 460P (480 HP) would be 1MS5173P9 . The “P” number on the end determines HP , a P7 would be 400 HP and a P8 would be 427 HP. This is not labeled on the engine ECM . The software level might be on the ECM but never the data file.

I don’t believe there is a reverse switch on a Mdrive like on the traditional manual transmissions. Being the truck is a 2020 it has a light control module (LCM) that gets a signal from the either the gear selector or transmission ECM to send voltage from the LCM to the reverse lights. Check all the LCM fuses in the fuse box on top of the dash , I believe there are at least 5 and possibly as many as 7 LCM fuses.

They had a service bulletin on it . SB 261-008. https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/view/31273801/service-bulletin

We rarely ever cut counterbore on the E-7 or the ETECHs till after they made the coolant filter/conditioner optional in around 2002. Of course fleets and cheapskates ordered trucks without the coolant filter stand to save $50-$75 per truck . 8 to 10 years later coolant in the oil and damaged engine blocks with pitted counterbore ledges everywhere. 2002 was also the year we started seeing the casting core sand not flushed out of the engine blocks during assembly. This clogged the air compressor coolant line causing the air compressor to overheat , blow the air compressor head gasket and pump/force coolant up the air intake pipe and dump coolant into the back of the intake manifold where #6 piston then sucked in the coolant and hydro locking the engine, bending #6 connecting rod. Sometimes so bad we had to cut the rod with a torch to get it out . And this wasn’t rare , one time we had 2 trucks do it on the same day . However, 2002 was my favorite year , a axle forward CH with a CCRS 427 and a Fuller Super 10 trans was my dream truck and still is.

I was think the book says no more than .030” in shims but I remember cutting the counterbore way more. I wish Mack or aftermarket would make some thicker shims than .010” or at least that was the thickest we ever got to use back then. I know the Reman center cuts the counterbore 3/4” and drives a stainless ring into the block to get the counterbore to the 4.00” to top of block measurement.

As Joey Mack said there is another identical pipe plug about 1.5 inches below the one you removed but it’s behind the front timing cover. These usually leak towards the inside into the oil pan and cause low oil pressure due to thinning the oil with fuel and also your oil level will rise. But I have seen one leak to the outside. The plug that is visible is a good place to check fuel pressure. It’s standard pipe threads so it’s easy to adapt fittings and hoses to run to a 1-100 psi guage to monitor fuel pressure during test drives . The original Etech engine was made with two separate fuel galleys , one for pressure and one for return fuel. This is the reason for the 2 pipe plugs. The engine blocks were drilled front to back so there are two pipe plugs in the front and two in the back of the block . They were separated by the middle o-rings on the 6 EUP electronic unit pumps. Later Mack decided that the middle o-ring wasn’t needed so a lot the the rebuilt EUP’s don’t have a place for the middle o-ring. I always thought the middle o-ring was a good idea. That way you could run the higher fuel supply pressure (100 psi vs 60 psi ) which is between the upper and middle o-ring and low pressure fuel return was between the middle and lower o-ring. It would be less chance of fuel getting in the oil past the bottom o-ring into the oil pan . Before Volvo took over the dealerships could actually call and talk to the engineers that built and designed the engines. I talked to one who said that the bottom o-rings would seep fuel regardless but not enough to matter between oil changes. He was right as many times I dropped the oil pan on a hot engine and capped off the fuel system and pressurized to 60 psi with due in the fuel. You could slowly see with a black light the fuel seep past the o-rings but not enough to make a drip. The real leaks were easy to find as they would show up fast with a black light. Fuel supply pump gear bushing , a bad lower EUP o-ring or loose fuel galley plug on the block as talked about above we’re the usual problems of fuel in the oil . Sorry for the long post , I miss working on the old stuff.

There are 2 fuse boxes , One under the triangle shaped cover on top of the dash in the center. The second one is behind the panel by the clutch pedal,

As one of the other posters said earlier in this thread , the engine ECM grounds the starter relay that’s bolted to the starter. The vehicle control unit (VECU ) / key switch might send power to the starter relay but the final decision is made by the engine ECM to ground and engage the starter

With any MP engine that won’t crank , check and see if you can view the engine hours in the dash cluster . If you have the high end dash cluster with the stalk switch , you can view it under Trip Info. If all you see for engine hours is dashes then the engine ECM is bad or not powering up .

The cracks were not gapped open or leaking that we could tell . I believe it was from the weight of the 2 coolant lines and DEF line hanging unsupported off the end of the DEF doser that caused the cracks. We saw it in both Macks and Volvos.