Mackpro

A bad starter drawing to many amps could the the cause . Of course start by charging each individual battery separately and load testing . Them move on to the battery cables and grounds . Engine to frame ground on driver side frame rail. The ground breaker and auxiliary starter solenoid by the wiper motor on the firewall under hood . All need to be checked thoroughly. We were lucky and the shop had a large battery and starter tester and could measure starter draw when starting. It measured up to 1400 amps. We had a few bad starters they maxed that reading out . The draw was so high that it took so much voltage away from the engine ECM that it would not fire the EUPs and the engine would not start. The owner was convinced it was a fuel issue because you could use starting fluid to get the engine spinning fast enough that it took the load off the batteries and the engine ECM had enough voltage to then start running. Acted just like a fuel issue. One way to check with out a starter amp flow tester is to use a volt meter and check voltage at the fuse of the engine Ecm on the fire wall while cranking . If below 9 volts then you got voltage issue. You can also check the same way on the VECU fuse in the fuse box inside the cab .

Around the same time we were having EUP bolts breaking a lot. The angle drill was helpful on thoses too. Of course another service bulletin on updated EUP bolts came out soon after

Very very possible. We had so many bolts breaking back then I bought a angle drill so I wouldn’t have to pull the water pump housing off . The lower driver side bolt always seem to break when removing if not already broken.

If the link works, type in water pump in the search and all the bulletins will show up for the grey engines. If you type in coolant pump you will get bulletins for the MP engines. Once you choose the bulletin, click print/save file and you can view . https://macktrucks.vg-emedia.com/ProductListing.aspx?GroupId=535

I always used new factory bolts when installing a water pump on the E7’s . The new bolts come with thread sealant already applied. Back in 2002 Mack sent out a bulletin SB-215-021 to address issues with water pump bolts breaking, stretching and coming loose. This was at the request of UPS due to issues they we’re having with their trucks. I remember talking to the Mack fleet rep for UPS about the bulletin. It involved using 7 longer bolts and spacers for more clamping force and to help with bolt stretch.

The CTP and CXP were only made in 2007 and the first Mack’s to get the MP7 . It’s kinda a unique engine as it used the Mass flow sensor from the ASET AC engine to read EGR flow and temp and also used the Centrimax oil filter from the ASET engines. Best part is no DPF filter and of course no DEF. Sadly it was only produced one year. I believe the 5 you are seeing in the code readout is actually a S for SID . MID 128 is the engine ecm reporting the fault . SID 3 and 5 would be the injectors on 3 and 5 . The PPID 35 code I think is for the EGR flow. The mass flow sensor on them go out like crazy.

Being a 2007. Is this a CV713 or a CTP713 .

You truck can be programmed by the dealership to allow you to view fault codes through the dash cluster. This feature was standard in the early years of the MP equipped trucks. Then drivers started clearing the codes before the trucks made it to the dealership for repairs , due to this the feature was discontinued. It can be turned on through software download from corporate.

I don’t remember if the D12 engine used the A gauge and the D11/13 and MP7/MP8 the B . Or the other way around. The carrying case had the instructions inside. If you try hard you can time the camshaft without pulling the upper rear timing cover but it was tight. Put the flywheel on 0 degrees. Put the cam TDC mark between the marks on the cam bearing cap. Then install the cam gear but not the Damper. Then the A/B tool goes on the gear and using the correct rod in either the A or B slot on the tool , the rod will line up with a hole in the gear timing plate on the back of the engine. If the rod doesn’t line up then remove the cam gear and go a tooth right or left till it does . Always use new cam gear bolts . They are the same part number as the injector hold down bolts usually. Common rail engines don’t have a damper on the camshaft and possibly take different bolts . I only did a few common rail cams and those were due to slipped lobes . At least they were hollow and half the weight of a non-common rail cam.

I always seemed to get the cam gear a tooth off either way when doing head/cam job . I started using the cam timing tool and never had a problem. https://www.freedomracing.com/j-44514-b-engine-timing-kit.html?___store=default&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0oyYBhDGARIsAMZEuMstKXaxSdz6q2TO3MjL_8ZSRJs5c6rzxSV-w61Hq6M2SV2d1ygTAGEaAmnLEALw_wcB

I seem like I like to blame everything on cups and injectors but in my defense, here’s what I have encountered at my day job here lately. 90% of our trucks are out of warranty so we are repairing what we can till our new trucks arrive, which will probably be Spring of next year. Last week I had 2 different 2016 CXU’s MP8 with the classic hard start complaint . Each truck had 2 cups leaking and pitted injectors so replaced the bad cups and injectors and reinstalled remaining injectors with new o-rings and hold down bolts . Not to bad a job to do . I have a buddy with his own shop and works on everything ( Cats, Cummins,Detroit) but Mack/Volvo. He calls me last week and I spend a couple nights on a 2010 GU MP7 with coolant in fuel and fuel in coolant. . Yank cups out and o-rings on them are shot. New cups and luckily the injectors were OK . Re-assembled and flushed cooing system and block and fuel tanks and back on the road . Then Wednesday/Thursday night I’m on a 2016 Volvo D-13 , hard start and 3 blown cups/ pitted injectors, done and on the road . This week at the day job. 2013 CXU MP8 engine miss, injector code for #1 . Got engine hot, yanked valve cover , did electrical test on injectors and 5 of the 6 were bad . Replacing all . Should be done with that one tomorrow. Night job this week involved another 2016 Volvo D13 hard starting , 3 cups and pitted injectors on it as well. Hope to have it done by tomorrow night or Friday night . Fun times ! Lol

I’ve had to that a couple of times due to a batch of bad reman injectors. Plugged the fuel outlet in the front of the head and hooked up a air pressure regulator going into the fuel galley and set to 65 psi and shot air into the injectors. We sprayed soapy water down in the injector spring looking for bubbles. We also bumped the engine over to check both when the injector is pushed down and in the up position. One truck with leaking injectors would only do the start and die issue when the fuel tanks we’re below 3/4 full. And of course there were signs of fuel in the oil but not as much as I would think

Talked to the Tech this morning . About 5-6 years ago we had a 2013 Titan MP10 that spun a main bearing. They installed a Mack Basic Reman engine. Reused the turbo and injectors. Shortly afterwards the engine would start fine but after about 20 seconds it would stumble and sometimes die , it would take about another 20 seconds for it to clear up and run right . It was the exhaust rocker arms. We still had the core motor so we pulled the complete rocker arm shaft off and installed it on the reman motor and all was good . Found the reman engine did not have the newest part number rockers on it . Ordered the new ones, installed them and all was good. In September of 2015 mack released a bulletin and tool for new upgraded special o-rings for the injectors. No mention of the symptoms for this update other than to help with injector cups blowing

Had a similar MP 10 issue years back. However In our case I don’t think any incline was a factor. I’m thinking it was exhaust rocker arms were the problem. I know there was a service bulletin on upgraded injector o-rings that are only used on the MP10. I’ll probably talk to the guy in the morning that worked on it . Hopefully he will remember. .

For that year model truck in Tech Tool , all the codes are in the P***** code format. I have found no way to cross the SPN fault code format to the P code format that is now used. A lot of the time generic code readers or even the dash diag will read out codes in the older format. But when you plug up the to Tech Tool you get a totally different type of code format. Early ETECH and MP’s used the MID SID format, then around 2010 it changed to the SPN format and then around 2016 the P series fault code format came about. Very confusing of course. On your fan clutch at the electrical connector, pins 1 and 2 are a pair of twisted wires and this is fan speed signal . Pin 5 is the power to the fan speed sensor, I’m assuming it’s 5 volts. The other pins are for voltage and ground for engagement and over temp .

On the R /DM series cabs with the ETECH engines. The red engine shutdown light and the yellow electronic malfunction light are stand alone bulbs pushed in from the back of the dash onto the bulb holders . Problem with this style is the bulb falls out of the back or the bulb blows. Easy way to check is when you turn key on both lights should light up for a few seconds then go out. Many times I plugged the laptop in to find unknown active codes due to the lights not working.

I’ll run the fault code through Tech Tool sometime this morning and see if there are any test that can be done before replacing fan clutch

Everything is self contained inside the fan clutch. A faulty fan clutch, worn pins in connector, wiring damage or engine ecm issues could be the cause. In some model years the fan speed sensor is powered by a 5 volt wire that also powers other 5 volt sensors like the boost pressure sensor. An issue with a totally unrelated sensor can cause a fault code for something else using the same 5 volt wire.

When the FMI is 8 on a unit pump it’s usually intermittent as you have found . Most of the time the FMI 8 on any of the 6 EUP’s shows up when the engine is cold and goes inactive when it warms up to operating temp. However I’ve seen it do the exact opposite a few times. Usually there is no engine miss or noticeable change in performance. A lot of guys run them a while longer till the code starts staying on more than off, at least around here. This is most common on number 6 due to the exhaust pipe being so close to it . Hopefully all the heat shields are still on the EUP’s.

Last month I spent a week up in Pennsylvania running around Harrisburg/Hershey/Lancaster area. Of course thats Mack territory up there and saw more R models running on the road there than back home. And they were nice R models too, most of the ones down here are in rough shape .

We had 2 early MP8 cranks break. They were the 485 HP ( before the 505 was available) with manual transmissions and were used for heavy equipment moving. I remember cranks breaking quite often in the E6’s but never on any E7/ ETECH.

If Mack goes with the Volvo cab, at least I hope the put the easy removable floor panel in like the Mack cab. In the Volvo cab we always had to pull the Ishift trans all the way out to get the shifter cover off. The Mack cab has the huge removable floor panel you can take out and do a lot on Mdrive repairs without taking the trans out.

The 2013 could be a OBD engine, injectors abs cam could be different. I’d have a dealership check the VINs, it might start and run but could be low power and emissions problems.

Fuse 41 in the firewall mounted fuse panel supplies the air fan solenoid with 12 volts with key on . The ground wire side of the solenoid goes to the engine ECM. It makes the decision to ground the wire and turn on the solenoid. The solenoid can be plumped for either a Horton or Eaton fan clutch. One takes air to disengage ( Horton I believe) and Eaton works the opposite. Rarely saw a Eaton on trucks past 2001.

If the truck has a stand alone DEF tank then it’s mounted to the tank brackets facing towards the front of the truck. If the DEF tank in mounted directly to the fuel tank then it’s mounted high on the frame underneath the drivers side door. The cab suspension air bag often rubs the wires when mounted in that location. The fuse for the ACM is on to of the batteries and often loose battery cables are to blame