Mackpro

Lol , your right . I corrected it .

If your having EGR temp sensor readings that are erratic. I believe there is a service bulletin on the pins in the harness causing faults. I’ll see if I can find it .

I just went down this same road with a 2012 Volvo D13 last week. Started with EGR flow codes. Updated to the newest EGR differential sensor and venturie pipe. It’s a kit that comes with everything you need. After doing this the EGR codes went away but the failed EGR diff sensor caused EGR valve to stay open more than it should and caused over sooting of the DPF filter. So I started a regen and couldn’t get the center T2 DPF temp over 750. Borrowed a flow tester and 7th injector had really low flow . Started at 2 LPM ( liter per minute) flow , cleaned and re-tested and had 3 LPM . Spec is 4-8 LPM at 30psi . So replace the 7th injector ( no fun on the big ones, a super thin 7/8” wrench is a must) . Started a regen and temps slowly and I mean super slowly got to 880 after about 25 minutes. The DPF differential pressure was around .8psi and slowly dropping to about .5 psi at end of regen. Usually the regen temps shoot up pretty quickly on the T2 when the fuel starts dosing. To make it right I finally had to pull the filter and have it cleaned and went ahead and had the top part ( catalyst) cleaned too. After that the temps rose quickly and my DPF differential pressure only got to .3 psi at it’s highest.

Can you view the DPF differential pressure during regen?

Oh . So you have the early big 7th injector with the coolant lines ?

For AHI stuck closed or stuck open fault code . We would start with flow testing the 7th injector and replace it if not in specs. Hardly anyone outside of dealers have the flow testing kit so replacement is the normal routine. Remember there are 3 and now possibly 4 different 7th injectors on Mack’s /Volvo engines now. Testing the air to the AHI as I mentioned above and replacement of the air drier filter are must . The air pressure regulator for the AHI is usually mounted on the bracket the air drier is on .

Put a 1/4” air line Tee in the air line going to the AHI . Hook a good air pressure gauge to the Tee . Start regen and during regen it should be right at around 31-33 psi. This is very important. Not changing the air dryer filter causes the regulator to the AHI to fail and cause failed regens.

https://www.macktrucks.com/-/media/files/body-builder/manuals/heavy-duty/2022/mack-section-1--oil-and-filter.pdf?rev=3fe5689395524824988bae78e9d93183&hash=4A654651964E2CF482A1F80AB207CF46 Link to Mack website that list oil weights for manual trans and carriers

Also , there is a fuse box for the sleeper it’s self. Should be under the bed somewhere.

No. Different circuits I believe. The newer sleeper trucks a a bunk fan switch also on the dash . Make sure it’s on

The cab blower motors are a known issue to go out . The HVAC control pane on the dash is another problem area. Mainly due to people not changing their cabin air filter. A clogged/dirty filter causes the motor to over heat and also melts the back of the HVAC panel. Also melts the dash harness connector.

If they are both T-310 and not a 310M or another variant of the T-310. The only difference I can think of is one having a oil pump for a trans cooler and one not having the pump. Just a guess

I sent you an email . After looking at the wiring diagram it doesn’t show the power and relay . The Mack/Volvo diagrams are horrible as they don’t show the complete circuit on one page. I’ll do some more looking

Message me your email and I can send you the bulletin and troubleshooting

The new interior GR, AN and PI’s use a door control panel that is actually a ECM . You can actually flash out a fault code on the control panel . Quality was horrible on the first couple of years and I believe Mack changed supplier and quality improved. On one of our Anthem’s we changed the drivers side DCP 3 times . Lucky we have the extended chassis warranty on all our trucks.

Hope someone in here has a answer from you . I myself am looking at a 1967 Chevy C50 my buddy has for sale. Going to use it to haul boat, camper or boat short distances.

As Joey said screwing them out let’s the steering gear turn farther. There is one on top and one on the bottom. Depending on the location of the sector shaft determines which poppet screw does either right or left turn . If you back them out to far they will fly out due to the pressure. They have O-rings on the ends to keep them from leaking. Most newer boxes have AUTO casted on the housing and are auto setting poppets . If it’s a Sheppard box , all the manuals are on R H Sheppard website

I wish other manufacturers would follow Eaton Fuller and have free access to all their manuals and bulletins. Sheppard steering gear is another good company with free manuals and a good technical hot line. TRW steering gear company also had manuals online however its been many years since I’ve checked to see if it’s still free. Bendix has a good website and Meritor/WABCO air drier did too last time I checked. .

The wire usually falls back behind the batteries and is forgotten. Used to see this a lot at the dealership when batteries were replaced or tested

The power wire to the ACM was left off the batteries . This powers the ACM , def pump and level sensor . It’s a smaller wire with a in line fuse

Email sent . The fuel dye test is always the best option.

On the common rail engines there is lots of planes under the have cover to leak . If no one has been into the injectors then probably not the injector lines . There is a service bulletin on this issue and have seen this first hand . It was only on the Common rail MP7’s. The is a plug left loose in the back of the head behind the cam gear. Message me your email and I can send you the bulletin

If the red and yellow light both are on it’s usually low coolant issue. This can cause the engine to shutdown if set in the parameters. If it’s only the red shutdown light on then it’s low oil pressure or high coolant temp which can shut the engine down as well. The Etech RD series of trucks use a mixture of electronic and manual gauges. The oil pressure gauge is mechanical but has a sensor on the filter stand that feeds info to the engine ecm . So your gauge could read correctly but the engine ecm is only seeing what the sensor is telling it which could be 0 psi causing the engine to shutdown. Coolant temperature is the same way . The coolant temp sensor that sticks out the side of the water manifold is for the gauge only. The one that sticks out the back towards the firewall is for the engine ecm only. And just like the oil pressure, what your gauges tell you your ecm might be seeing something different.

The LSR ( Left Side Re-design) started in early February of 2000. I thought I’d was only on the CCRS engines as well. But the early Etech’s had it to .

https://macktrucks.vg-emedia.com/ProductListing.aspx?keyword=H-ring Here are the two bulletins on h-ring checking