Mackpro

88800265. It’s about $63 from Mack

Arm to the rear as far as it would go and would not get to the black mark on the gauge. It’s turbo replacement time .

Actuator removed and gauge installed and arm forward. And the arm touches the black mark on the gauge.

Normally with a non-deleted MP8 33psi of boost is the max. If we got 35-40 the turbo actuator was sticking due to soot or not calibrated correctly. Also have had soot clog the turbo and restrict the VGT vains on the other end and cause low boot. We have had Mack reman turbos right out of the box not calibrated or the turbo VGT vains not moving full travel. Possibly turbo boost pressure sensor caked with soot can cause weird issues. Also the incorrect part number for the boost pressure sensor causes issues. If it were mine you Id have the turbo actuator remove and the stroke manually checked with gauge. I’ll attach pics .

Looks to be ABS related . Make sure the steer axle wheel speed sensors are pushed in all the way . Jack up the steer axle . Unplug the sensors and hook a good volt meter to the 2 wires on the sensor and set the volt meter to AC voltage. Spin the tire and the faster you spin the higher the voltage will get. Should be able to get .25 volts. Make sure the wheel bearings are not loose. Also does on only happen when it rains or wet conditions?

https://macktrucks.vg-emedia.com/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductId=6246&GroupId=-1 Click on view file . It’s the engine manual for the 2008 and 2009 MP8. This was the last of the paper manual for the MP engines. Not much has changed till the common rail came out. The injector torque and the rocker arm torque did change though. I believe they came out with a new design timing gear plate with gasket instead of silicone sealant. There is big difference between the MP8 and MP7’s when setting up the gear train in the rear of the engine.

I remember in the mid -80’s working on the old trucks , we would re-core the radiators . Unbolt the upper and lower tanks and install them on the new radiator core. It was time consuming but not to hard. Hopefully in your case ,maybe the core is more universal ( fit many models) and you can use your upper and lower tanks on it .

Renault KERAX/Lander Wheel Hub reduction is what I believe it is .

I looked at all the Titans here in the states and they use the Mack 202/203 series and the 95/96 series carriers or the Meritor RP/RD/RR 23164 carriers . I looked at the hub variations too and nothing wild and crazy. I know things down under vary greatly than here. Is is possible to get a VIN number or whatever ID number used there? I can look into it specifically that way.

Sorry for the delay . It’s a CXU613, built 8/5/2010. MP8 engine but unable to see what HP rating. Mack T-310 manual trans, Eaton rears on air ride with 3.55 gear ratio. It came as a sleeper truck. Only thing I don’t like on this truck is the Eaton steer axle as I prefer the Mack FXL steer axles. And also it’s got the old style 7th injector for the DPF which can be problematic in later years. Wouldn’t keep me from buying it though if the price was right .

I remember seeing a 2004 ASET AC engine that was converted from the VGT turbo to the 60 series Detroit turbo. He had a homemade metal reducer between the turbo and the aftercooler. Thing ran really good even though lots of fault codes.

The software page said no engine brake but I went back on the parts side and it does have the Jacob’s engine brake. As Joey said , the jakes on these engines are mostly noise makers . But there are a ton of updates that can be done to help them perform better, everything from high volume oil pumps to external oil line kits to plunger lots. Some items might no longer be available though.

Built 7/21/2000. Regular ETECH 460. Fuller 10 speed FR016210C , no engine brake, 56” flat top sleeper, originally a 427 HP but upgraded to a 460 at some point. Air ride suspension with Mack 92/93 carries 4.17 gears

Seen lots of cracked/split injector tips in the MP7s of that era. Compression blows back up through the injector and blows the fuel out of the fuel galley. Rarely see it with the MP8’s though. You can possibly take the fuel inlet line off the LH side of the cylinder head and crank over and see if compression/fuel blows out of head. We would check the injectors while we had them out. Looking at the tips carefully with a large magnifying glass. Also , we would get a rubber tip blow gun and while wearing rubber gloves, put thumb over one hole ion the side of the injector body and blow air in the other hole opposite and the crack will sometimes show.

That VIN comes back to a RD688S, built 4/11/2000. Engine is a standard ETECH 400. Trans is a Mack T-2090. steer axle is a FAW12 ( 12,000 pound I believe) . Rear carriers are Mack 200 series with 4.73 gears. . Has 10 leaf camelback springs .

Was the VECU with the connectors facing up or down? Was there any green or white corrosion in any of the 3 connectors of the VECU? Inspect the green and yellow twisted wires that go between the VECU and the ABS module beside it . The green and yellow wires are the high speed data links .

I don’t know if I mentioned this. Common problem with R series trucks with ETECH engines. The VECU ( vechicle electronic control unit) is mounted on the kick panel in front of the passenger seat down by the floor. The factory mounts it to the kick panel with the electrical connectors facing up . The windshields are bad about leaking and when the RH side does it drips right down onto the VECU. I have found the VECU’s to actually have water in them. This causes all kinds of crazy problems. Issues include having to crank engine 8-10 seconds before it will start, various guages not working, engine won’t die when you turn the key off until 8-10 seconds pass, low power/ sluggish response. This is because the high speed J-1939 data link is down and it’s running off the slow/low speed data link J-1587 so everything is responding super slow.

Unless your dealership parts guys have been there a long time , this is a common issue. Mainly because Volvo/Mack corporate likes to move and hide and erase service/parts bulletins at random times without notice. So unless the parts/service guys are exploring Dealer Portal 24/7. It was hard to keep up . The clutch cable conversion bulletin is not in the parts look up side, it’s buried in the old E-media section of Dealer Portal. The people that Volvo/Mack get to make and design their dealership software ( Dealer Portal) know nothing of the difference between the service and parts. The worst was our on-line training and testing. Our district service manager would get mad because we we’re always behind on our training and testing. We explained that the website would totally change the format every 2-3 years and no one ever could keep up on how to navigate the system. He reluctantly agreed.

The DRL module is a not a regular relay, it’s a specific relay/module and they’re a few different part numbers fir different years/models of Macks. The GR’s that replaced the GU’s have a totally different electrical system for lighting and use a LCM ( light control module) to control all lighting. Hopefully yours is a GU and not a GR when it comes to lighting problems.

On the early version Venturi pipe , the pedestal that the sensor bolts to can be removed from the Venturi pipe itself. Four small screws hold the pedestal ( that sometimes break) to the pipe. Removing the pedestal makes it easier to clean . Here’s a pic of the Venturi pipe with pedestal removed, you can see the bottom hole clogged solid . This caused low EGR flow codes and daily regen requests.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=AsPtct6bw3M Here is a video that explains cleaning the ports. Your EGR diff sensor and Venturi may look different but all work the same way and port clogging still happens to the newest versions. The ports are not drilled straight through so compressed air or running something flexible through it is the only way to clean it out. Mack recommends the old pipe cleaners that the old tobacco pipe smoker used to use years ago.

On the P0401 code, it’s for low EGR flow. On a MP8 or D13 the flow is measured by the EGR differential sensor which is mounted on the vertical Venturi pipe on the RH side of engine on the outlet side of the EGR cooler. There are 2 holes in the Venturi pipe that the sensor sits over and reads EGR flow and pressure. Naturally this is soot/exhaust that flows through the pipe/sensor. Over time the 2 holes soot up and clog and restrict flow and pressure to the sensor. The engine ECM sees low flow and commands the EGR valve to open farther to reach the target EGR flow and pressure. This happens slowly over time so for awhile your pumping excessive amounts of dirty exhaust back into the engine which causes DPF over sooting and frequent regen requests. Finally the P0401 sets. There are several variations on the EGR differential sensor and Venturi pipe. The newest style has large holes in the Venturi pipe to keep from clogging. You can remove the sensor and clean out it the holes with compressed air/blow gun. The diesel smell smoke from under the cab is probably a leaking exhaust flex pipe and the engine doing or finishing a regen. Seen this many times while doing a parked regen. I’ll attach pics on the EGR diff sensor later.

Sounds about right . I been waiting for almost 4 months for a set of injectors for a 2009 MP8 . My corporate won’t let us buy aftermarket engine parts due to past issues.

Also some are some are service-able some are not. Most are in the front port and will have the plastic fuel return line going to them

It screws into the side of the fuel injection pump then the fuel return line ( that goes back to the fuel tank) screws into it. Various different styles throughout the years. Most can be re-shimmed to increase pressure. The spring can break or loose tension or the ball and seat can wear and can cause low fuel pressure or hard starting