Mackpro

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2014/RCRIT-14V078-3643.pdf

Fuse panel down by the clutch pedal is known to get water in them . Major recall on them years ago

I’ll see if I can find the digital copy

For some reason # 5 or # 6 was always the location this happened at

Roller looks perfect

Screw in new bolt down in the hole to about the depth it normally rest. See if you can wiggle the bolt in the threads.

I believe I have a MH heating and air conditioning service manual at work. I’ll see if I can locate it and see if it has any thing you might could use

The cam sensor and crank sensor work together. When one goes out it will still run but like you said, hard starting. I believe it’s like 8 seconds of crank time before it starts .

Have you had any work done on the back of the engine like bull gear, camshaft or upper timing gear cover replacement? If not just use your original shim or shims. I don’t think I’ve ever had to re-shim one even after the above mentioned repairs. Hopefully the new sensor fixes it. I’ve only see maybe 2 sensors go bad. Most we’re erratic signal codes and it was the engine harness bad. I believe these sensors produced AC voltage and the faster the engine spins the higher the voltage. The harness usually test good but at high RPM’s the faulty harness can’t handle the higher AC voltage and sets the code.

Yes , that’s for the MP10/D16

I got to test drive the truck I been working on for a couple of days before I went home today. 2012 CXU 445 Econodyne. 10 speed Fuller. New turbo , new EGR differential sensor upgrade kit installed, new EGR temp sensor, no boost leaks, clean DPF with only 1% soot . Pulling a empty but heavy feed trailer . On the interstate coming up the biggest long hill we have around here. I accelerate up the hill and took this pic at 1650 rpms at 72 mph and max boost I got was 33 psi , I hit 75 at the top of the hill. I’m wondering if emission years and HP differences make a big difference in actual max Boost pressure. My buddy who had the 2016 505 Plus program can’t remember his boost numbers in a hard pull. I road with him once to the grainery and we we’re pulling same hill loaded easier that I pulled it with my empty trailer. Gross weight was 101,000 when we weighed at the grain bins. Best pulling Mack I ever road in.

I guess I should have asked but what year model is the truck and is it deleted now or was that in the past ? And what’s the Hp on the sticker on the valve cover?

To gain access to the sensor you can turn the steering wheel all the way to the left , remove the black plastic fender/splash shield from the cab and step bracket and get down between the tire and frame and get to the sensor. Some trucks this works on and some not . Plus it helps if you got skinny long arms. To check the harness at the back of the engine you gotta go in from the inside and pull the doghouse cover off as Joey said. Also , is this a MP7? If so there were issues of the harness rubbing on the air compressor head and causing injector codes and cam sensor and crank sensor codes. All those wires run together towards the back as the injector wires go in the back of the head. On a MP8 the injector wires go in the front of the head so there’s less wiring towards the back of the engine.

There is a depth measuring tool to tell how many if any shims are needed to install a new sensor. Really the only time you need it is if you have had the upper timing gear cover off or replaced the cover. Honestly, it’s usually the harness or harness end. I’ve only replaced 1 or two of the sensors ever. Pull the sensor and check for damaged end. Using a ohm meter you should have 775-945 across the pins on sensor.

Oh yea. There was oil in the air line going to the AHI . Not good

Yes . They work pretty good if you change the filter. And the filter is super easy to replace so there no excuse not to keep it changed . Probably not the best out there but the ease of filter change makes up for it

Yea don’t know why we would have air pressure supply problems?

Yes , bolts broke on the #2 cylinder position top and bottom. Usually they come out easy but I had to drill and re-tap the threads. Same truck that has the turbo not reaching full stroke. Lots of issues. Finally get it together and try a regen and it failed. No air pressure to the AHI . Found the air drier filter was the original from 2012! Air pressure regulator to AHi stuck. Hopefully the AHI can be saved . I’ve seen some YouTube videos of taking the AHI apart and cleaning it as 90% of the failures are dirty air supply.

The turbo gauge part number is only for MP7 and 8 and the Volvo D11 and13 . The MP10 and D16 use a different gauge.

Yea the description make you wonder if your getting the right parts sometimes!

Yes , that’s what Volvo calls it lol

One of my most used tools on the MP engines. Part number 9998288 from Mack/Volvo. Goes on the inlet side of the aftercooler and pressurizes the after cooler. Intake manifold and EGR piping and cooler. Cost about $75. It comes with a metric quick connector but we remove it and tap it to 1/4” pipe threads and add a gate valve and sometimes pressure regulator and hook it up to shop air.

Always do learned data reset when changing most any engine part. On the newer trucks it’s called Adaptive Factor Reset under calibrations in Tech Tool

I’ve seen a few hit 35 them back off to 33 and be good. I’ll talk to my buddy that has the 505Plus program in a CHU and see what he’s hitting. The only ones I have seen in the 38-40 range had issues with the turbo. Which can be good in some cases if the sticks in the right position.