Mackpro

I am the Warranty Admin at our Mack dealership, always read the fine print on the Mack warranty , the salesmen will tell you anything to sell a truck. Most everything inside the cab (except certian AC parts by Berh) has a one year warranty its been that way for 10-15 years on Mack. As far as the steering column goes, we have had the same thing happen on several trucks but never changed out the whole column, A cable kit/ gas cylinder usually cures it. Thank Volvo for that crappy design, it came from their trucks along with that air assist clutch crap!

I found that the first CV's had a 5" turbo exhaust pipe all the way down to the very end of the pipe where it then necked down to 4", this necked down part could be trimmed off to allow for 5" flex pipe to be slid over. The later CV's some with ETECH's and all with AI's (like yours) had the turbo pipe neck down to 4" an inch or two behind the turbo. I finally came across a CV with the 5" pipe and got the VIN and looked up the part and Mack still has it instock but it's $500 and is drilled for pryo sensor. Would like to see your 5" setup before I gather up all the parts for my buddies CV 5" high flow system. I did find some 5" in/out high flow mufflers that are the same size as the stock muffler.

I would like to find someone in the US that sells these. Every thing I have found on these is overseas. Hard to send $2100 across the ocean and not know if you will get anything in return.

Sadly we have no paper wiring diagrams for the newer trucks anymore. Their all on Macks Dealer website. And it's a bitch to try to read them on a laptop while working on a truck.

Bigen was at our shop the other day and we were talking about a guy that was on here that had almost figured out how to sucessfully remove the EGR system on a ASET and not have any malfunction codes or negative side affects. That guy just vanished with no trace, secret EPA police hit?

If I was buying new I would have no problem buying a MP7 or 8, but a used one makes me wonder, have the dealer give you a warranty with it!. Otherwise i would buy another CV with a AI engine. Look for some low mileage Highway/DOT trade ins, They usually have smaller engines butthe HP could be bumped up.

On our CV's around here with manual transmissions they get 5.2- 5.4 overall at best. I think it's the AI engine that's the problem. The RD's and first CV's with the regular ETECH engine seems to get better MPG. We have 5 or 6 CV's here with Allison automatics in them but I have never checked the MPG on them.

Just had a chance to pull up your truck and it looks like a Mack dealer just did the step 12B update the other day or at least downloaded onto their laptop to install in your truck. With the T-318 transmission, 4.73 rear gears you should be spec'ed right if you have tall 24.5 rubber. Spec'ed like alot of the trucks around here, some go with the taller 4.42 rear gears for more top speed but your OK.

In the Mack parts system it says your truck came with the 200 series rear carriers and 3.94 gear ratio. The rear leaf spring part # is 4QK4008A. In the parts system it doesn't come out and say what pound rating the rear axles are and I dont do enough on the parts side to know what all these numbers mean but I know that spring part number is very common and the 200 series carriers can be rated pretty high!

Has the truck always done this? If so, there are several threads about this problem, Doing the "Step 12B" download seems to help alot. Mack knows it as the "poor throttle responce program". We do sometimes 2 or 3 a week here. Give me the last 6 of the VIN and I can see if it has been done,

Yes, the oil temp/oil level sensor in the oil pan is known to push oil up the engine harness into the engine ECM, we actually had one today. The oil in the ECM /harness causes all kinds of weird codes. We usually wash out the ECM, replace the sensor and enine wiring harness and test drive to see if the ECM is OK, About 90% of the time the ECM is OK.

We bought 3 or 4 CH612's about the same year as yours, all had the EM7 300 ETECH engine, Some of the customers/buyers wanted the HP bumped up. As it turned out these enines had the offset camshaft key ways "advanced" . To go any higher with the HP we would have to pull cam and either put a straight key way in for 350 or 400 HP or flip the key way around "retarded" and go for the 427 or 460 HP. Plus turbo and or injectors would have to be replaced depending on desired HP. Customer ended up keepin them the way they were. A Mack dealer can request a HP conversion to see what parts to change and download cost. Its free to ask.

We always pull the hub along with the balancer off at the same time then use a press if needed to get them apart. The downside of doing this is you need a new front seal. Just dont try to pry the balancer off by using a prybar. I have cracked the timing cover trying to do that before.

Wonder if they resurfaced your flywheel or or put a used resurfaced one in ? We keep a used resurfaced flywheel and sometimes use it if customer is in a hurry and doesn't have time for us to get it to the machine shop. The problem we run into is the E-7 (Pre ETECH) and the ETECH/ASET flywheel look almost the same and will bolt up fine and seem to work except the timing sensors on these two engines are in different locations and if swapped the timing sensor wont read. If your engine is a E-7 Pre E-TECH, the timing sensor screws into the flywheel housing under the starter. If screwed in to far or backed out to far you will get a miss above around 1700 rpm. I think the book says screw in all the way the back out 1 full turn. On some engines this is to far and you have to trial and error adjust it. Also this sensor must only be turned by hand, if wrench or plier marks are on the sensor body its junk. Might need to run a thread tap through it to clean it. We have found out all this stuff the hard way.

As BTS-4120 said just get a Mack dealer to do a HP conversion download. Going from a 460E to a 460P it's just a download, no hard parts. The download varies in price from Mack as I have seen them free all the way up to $1500 . In your case I would think 500 max on the download and 1-2 hr labor for the install. The dealer has to submitt the request to Mack then it might take a day or two to get the download turned on in the mack mainframe.

The easiest thing to check is the fuel pressure relief valve on the front of the head ( had one with the end broke out last week). Also , if there is a Tee on top of the 7th injector this is a check valve that can go bad and air can be forced back into the fuel system. Also check where the fuel supply pump bolts to the power steering pump and make sure it not dripping fuelor seeping from where they mate together. Check the plastic fuel lines and plastic fittings at the fuel tanks and make sure their not cracked. We have had a few filter stands go bad and start sucking air but in reality it probably the injector cups bad, the symtoms vary greatly when it comes to bad injector cups. Done 2 sets in the last 3 weeks and got another GU sitting in my bay to start on tommorrow. There is a test we do to check for air in the return fuel. If there is alot of air bubbles then it's the cups. I would call a dealer and give him the VIN , miles and engine hrs and see if its still under warranty. If still under warranty get the conical (stainless)cups and injectors installed (If there not on backorder) . If not under warranty you can just replaced the copper cup that went bad to get by cheaply.

How in the world did we survive back in the day when we were pulling the same weight and the biggest HP we had was a 237 or a 350. Now we wonder if 505 HP can do the job. So far with the 2012 MP-8's we have had no issuses here with the DPF/SCR. We did have 2 trucks that broke the #6 injector in half but thats it. My friends 505 has gone 15,000 miles and never regened and is getting in the high 7's (MPG) and he runs it really hard. He went and picked up a new hopper bottom trailer and brought it back (around 300 miles) at 70-75 mph and got 9.1 mpg. When geared right they can do whatever you want.

Its probably the oilfilter stand to block gasket ( which is very common) but I have seen a pipe plug on the back of the filter stand leak as well, but regardless the filter stand/oil cooler has to come off to do either. The new oil filter stand gasket should have a steel core where some of the orignal gaskets were all paper/gasket materal.

We had a nice new MRU-613E (E=export) here the other day. Nice big MP-8 400HP with no DPF or SCR. Wish they were all like that to work on ! It was headed south to take a boat ride to Panama.

That oil temp is normal and actually could go alot higher and still be OK. We get this complaint alot, Mack made a service Bulletin about it. I am trying to attach it but its in a weird format. Document.rtf oil temp.txt

From what I have looked up the M-drive is not rated for the MP-10 torque output. We had a customer wanting a MP-10 605 HP with M-drive and we could not get it. Customer wanted big HP and an automatic, he bought a Kenworth with a Cummins and unknow automatic trans.

I would say yes it would be under powered. But our tri-axle dump truck guys around here want enough power to run up and down hills 85 MPH loaded to 80 thousand lbs then crawl through 3 foot of mud then run wide open back to the quarry for another load. It would be good for a guy pull his backhoe around and do small site work though. HP can be bumped up through a Mack dealer with turbo, injector and download depending on the actual engine model and how high of HP you want to go.

These guys have to turbo you need, I talked to them awhile back, good guys with lot of free info! http://www.rochesterfuel.com/products/mack-c-149.html

I would love to work on your truck as I have had 2 weeks of MP's falling apart, bolts stripping out , bolts breaking off in turbos and other failures due to poor parts quality. Someone give me a grey motor to work on quick!