Lmackattack

Terry, I thought "GK" was for gliders???

RD600K? is it possibly a glider kit??? that would explain the small 237 engine in a new frame.

Nice pics packer! Bulldog : it looks like a small cab before the change over to the larger cab in 72-73. also the hood is not tall like the later RS was. I think the tall RS hoods came out during the change over in 72-73 as well Trent

are you welding the bungs to the end of the tank or on the sides? I had a welder friend of mine install both bungs on the sides for a cleaner look and to hide them. we welded a stiffner plate to the sides where the bung went thru to reduce the flex from road vibrations. let us know how it turns out

the tip turbine set up would seam almost as simple of a project as moving everything for an frontmount IC. The turbo may need to be clocked diffrently but other than that pretty much would be all bolt on. If it converted the engine to a true 285. Would the HP rating max out the cooling capasity of the small rad.??? Not shure when the rad support braces were changed but another thing I notice is that the air ride cabs(that I have seen) do not use the "X brace" that bolted to the cab. I had helped work on a mid 80s R that was built with a solid mount cab. We were converting it to an ride cab and removed the X brace. We bought the later style rad braces but they did not fit as the front shock absober mount was installed diffrently. we ended up making our own brackets.

that engine looks like an rebuilt early maxidyne... 237??? judgeing by the crossover pipe from the turbo to the intake (no intercooler or turbine charge cooler) The problem I see installing an intercooler on that truck is how the radiator is installed, most of the R models I have see with the IC had the radiator moved back a few inchecs to accept the thickness of the IC. This will effect the space allowed for the fan/belts etc... I think the IC cores are about 3 1/2 thick. if you have a spacer plate on the fan that can be removed to place the fan closer to the engine thats a good sign it may work?.however you will need to get diffrent pullys that are offset to accept a tighter fit? also if the truck has A/C or shutters that takes up even more fitment room. might have to sacrifice something? Trent

one thing I would recomend, as you are scratch buildng the system, is to add a 2 line wet kit. this would allow you to pull lowboys if you ever need to move one. something good to have and easy to install with all new parts.

I dont remember the min amount of hyd fluid I needed for short dumps but I think I was told 40-45 gal min? I added about 5-7 gals more because I used the large 126 gal pass side tank and was worried about it sucking dry if I was dumping on an incline. Most of the trucks here in the city use the pass side tank for hyd fluid regardless of the size. The tractors set up from the factory for a dump tractor would have a amall 50 gal pass wet tank and a 100-120 fuel gallon tank on the drivers side. my opinion is anyone trying to save weight would just use the pass side tank for hyd and have only 1 fuel tank. my 2nd B had a rectangel wet tank mounted behind the cab. it was pretty small but I guess it did the job with short trailers? never did use that tank but it was small! I have also seen many trucks have 2 fuel tanks of the same size and then the wet tank behind one of them, any choce is fine but I would rather use the frame rail space for something more usefull. on my RS I was able to put a 24" long tool box on the drivers side rail. Was a much better idea than a wet tank located there. Trent

Well, I added 40-45 gallons of hyd fluid in my 126 gal tank and it dumps and works just fine with low boys and short dump trailers. The amount of fluid capasity needed is dependant on the hyd piston. I havent pulled a long dump but would suspect it needs more fluid than a short dump because of its hight travel? are you running 2 fuel tanks right now? what size are they? if you have 2 large tanks you could convert the pass side to the wet tank. or if you want to be real trick. have a shop seaparate the pass side tank for fuel and hyd fluid. something I considered but dident want to spend the $$$ on. im not a fan of the top of frame mounted tanks that sit behind the cab. ugly in my opinion Trent

details please !!!!

Hello and welcome to the site Insurance....http://www.racensur.com/ ...pretty cheep if you use it for shop and show only plates.... go to to your DMV and ask for antique plates. if the truck is an anteque I dont think you need a CDL to drive. Diffrent states have diffrent laws. Check at the DMV. I will say It does help to have one if you get pulled into a scale house. you wont need fuel tax stickers,log books or that other commercial junk with antique plates. Again just check with local laws to be shure in your state. In IL You need a truck with air brakes to take the tractor/trailer CDL test. not shure if traile needs air brakes or not.

Could it be a timing issue after the rebuild?? did you mess with the timing or anything that would upset performance. I guess what im saying is check with the simple stuff that you can perform. fuel press,boost leaks, etc... if all checks out dig deeper into engine programs and computer stuff. the price for an engine hp "upgrade" is pretty steep here in the US as well. I know that you guys get higher HP upgrades than us over here . whats the cost for a engine code scan at your dealer dealer? that may be a cheep option

crank or rod bearing would be mu guess? did the knock change when you let up on the peadal? sorry for the bad news Trent

I know you could get a Cat in a superliner, and I belive the ultraliner and superliners shared the same frame???? someone will know for shure for me, I would drive a old mack engine before a new cat was under the "dogs house"

I see your point Brad, and its a good one. I think many people are afraid that Volvo will do to mack, what they did with White trucks. I agree that mack is better off built under volvos name than to not be built at all. Volvo is a strong company,so thats good thing. I just hope they dont suprise us with "bad news" I hope the MP8 is as good as some have said. I have heard it compaired to the old maxidynes "can feel the power band" the elec versions of the E7s shure were not known for grunt. I also think it will be a very good move if they put the big HP (600hp?) engine in the mack for the heavy haulers and low boy trucks. 405hp is not huge power that most owner operators look for. dont get me wrong 405hp is plenty for me but there is a market for big hp engines, and mack is completly out of that market currently. cross my fingers

Scott the cans were pretty cheep $5-$7 dollars if I remember correctly. i think 2 cans did the dash and interior cab steel. I have not found the meterial used for the panel faces. I ended up getting some panels out of a parts truck that was in fair condition. It does seam odd that you cant get interior parts for the truck when it was discontinued a few years back. I tried looking up parts for a few year old R,RB,DM, etc... had no luck will all those vin numbers? I even tried for the R model ledgend and had no luck. Trent

Mack sells a spray can that matches the silver or tan paint used in the R models. I sprayed my vinal dash and inside the cab with it and it is holding up pretty good so far? I had trouble getting interior parts for my R model. I even tried using a a vin number from a 4 year old R model. I thought it may have just been my mack dealer not wanting to help but I did try another dealer and got the same answers?? let me know what you find

just for refrence if you ar looking for a 4.xx ratio. Many R models with the 6 speeds (1.1 direct trans) came with high 3.xx to 4.xx rear ratios a 4.17 rear with direct drive trans will do about 63MPH ish at 2100RPM with 24.5 rubber a 3.87 rear would give do about 68MPH at 2100RPM with 24.5 just some options there for ya.

"gold paint" is just another reason that it is likely a 6 spd

Very cool Barry That would be neat to have even if it was not my truck when new. Hell, I wasent even born yet when both my trucks rolled off the assembly line

Come on larry give it a shot . Its not as hard on the truck as you think! just dont use LOW LOW!!! I see lots of twisted drive shafts with that gear. Missed both of the Truck pulls this year. one because I was out of town the other was 2hrs south of me but I was just to damm tired after working all day to make the trip. Maybee next year?

here are the pics of the internal destruction. its hard to see but the "tear" goes all the way to the turbine blade aera and bypassed most of the snail housing. Enjoy

fixed I pulled the turbo off the manafold and found the intire center separtor wall of the exhaust snail was deteriorated and missing!!. I could clearly see the back of the turbine blades LOL. i think that would explain the issue with low boost . I put the "new used" turbo on and I can now get 15 psi at 1100RPM and a full 25 psi at 1900RPM She pulls like never before and EGT temps are very low at cruise. this was fun but glad its over.. Trent

2nd Update: I did a "sniff" test today. With the truck running I sprayed either around the charge core to see if it was sucking air..i.e leaking. no change in engine speed or sound. I also sprayed it in the tip turbine fan to see if it was leaking on the inside of the core aera. no change in engine sound. I removed the turbine fan to inspect the core. it looks clean but lightly sprayed it down with water to see if any dirt came thru. all looked clean. with the turbine fan removed. I plugged the turbine feed pipe hole with a cap and took the truck around the block to see if I could get more boost. With no boosted air being able to bleed off to through the turbine fan pipe. i was able to get 16 psi of boost when I held my foot on the brake to give the engine a load. EGT temps were obviously rising very fast with out the turbine fan installed, so I only did a few test trials. I still cant hit full boost or close to factory spec boost. It did however make the boost a little faster than with the fan installed so it leads me to belive that there is a large air leak that I have not found or that the turbo is worn out? Im leaning towards the turbo fins are worn out and not allowing it to make factory boost levels? I should have a spare 285 turbo tomorrow to test my thoughts. What do you think? on a side note the check valve on the fan inlet had a rubber flap that was a little worn as well. it was more or less contoured to the metal bridge that regulates how far the flap can open. I will be replacing that flap if its still availible at Mack just to elimanate that as a problem. Thanks for the help guys.