Lmackattack

Everyone has their own opinions on correct brake adjustments..but this is what I do. Build up air press to 120 psi.turn off truck, chock tires,release brakes, adjust the tractor tandems slacks so that they force the shoe to contact the drums. now back of 1/4 turn. trailer.... adjust the trailer tandem slacks so that they force the shoe to contact the drums. now back of 1/4-1/2 turn. if any wheel tends to lock up during normal braking. back that one off another 1/4 turn. to check if they are properly adjusted have someone measer the push rod travel when the brake is applied.(parking brake released/full air press in tanks) it should not travel more than 2" on a 20-20 or 30-30 chamber.

If I recall its on the driver side of the box? I think the back up alarm and light work off the same switch.. I dont have either on my trucks but have hooked up one years ago on a 6 speed. Its all done from the outside of the gear box....

check filters and lines for issues first. sounds like it has lost fuel somehow because if it had the same fuel flow as before but at a low 15psi your EGTs would likly be over 1000+. 23-26psi is normal boost. I get a solid 5mpg with the pump cranked up boosting 25psi. it will spike to 28 sometimes when the weather is right. is the android valve working correctly? some times it can restrict fuel if its not operating as it should.

great vid thanks for sharing. I model trains in Ho scale and love old macks... what a great combo to see from back in the day...

Someone send this to Mack HQ or the local news paper!! bravo!

I consider my self good at driving and better than most backing up. But the best guy I have seen backing up was this old guy named Don. he was in his late 50s and always a live wire. to much caffine? drugs? I dont know. He was one of the drivers that helped me get my licence and while teaching me the correct way to drive 99% of the time, once a week he had to show me some new "trick". He drove a 87 mack with a air shift 7 speed. would always back up in 4th and could get that 22' end dump trailer in any spot in his first try. (2nd try if he saw a hot chick walking across the street) Seen him do front wheel stands at a stop light. drive thru any soft muddy wet ground and make it look like he was on dry pavement. dump a load in spots you would think he should have gone over... talk his way out of a ticket. have 10k more of a load in his trailer but walk you from every stop light... you name it he could out do you. Not a guy anyone would really want in your truck but he was good at what he did and a pro at backing. And even with all the abuse he put the trucks thru he never tore stuff up like the others did..always wondered how he did it LOL!!!!.

Good job 53' trailers back easy but the blind spots can be a PITA. and yes a backing a long tractor with a short trailer is no fun ....even when your good LOL!!!

2 car batts will start it right up if it not to cold out and the engine does not need more than a 1-2 min of cranking to get it going. most of these old diesel will fire right up if the fuel system is still primed. most late 70s macks I have been around were 12V start so you can just use 2 standard batts. however it could be a 24V start system but you will just have to check. look at the volt meter sometimes it gives it away if its 12 or 24V system. post some more pics and welcome to the club....

let me know because Kanzler intrested in them....I just put them in their shop to store them today.... These would be good for spare tires or for a truck that does not see alot of miles. they came off the race hauler at work. I think its a full matched set that only saw highway miles. Call me tomorrow if you want more info....

been using PB for about 10 years alot faster than wd40 IMHO. also helps clean things better LOL!!!

not sure if anyone is looking for a set of used bridgestone M725 drive tires. none have been recaped. all came off the same OTR truck with .030-.040" tread left (11/32). make offer or OBO Trent

Rob I have (2) 4 valve head covers but not sure if they fit a engine brake? I thought there was a spacer under the valve covers for the engine brakes?. one cover has been polished via a REM machine. not chrome but better than a dull funish

try Tighten and then lousen a few times then hit it dead on with a hammer. see if it comes out....

not bad looking but does need a lower filler panel or better yet a tool box that blends into the sleeper sides

Dont know of any data on line. all the books have a few versions of the electrical systems with the diffrent options listed. If you truck was like mine you will have a few splices and such in alot of wires... I find that you should just replace all the exterior junction blocks and clean your grounds first and then follow the wires. I had to make new looms for my hood and rear tail lights on my 1977 RS. Trent

I have been on the road for 10 days now... last Sat was the ALMS 12 hours of sebring and now im in Atlanta picking up parts for a IRL race in St Pete. Wont get back home until a few days before easter weekend. I like racing but also like my weekends at home!!....

for a maxidyne the 12 speed was one of the best trans options to have. you can drive like a 5 speed if on the flats or split 3-4-5 in the hills. still had all your reverse gears. and plenty of low hole gears. and it was OD in top gear.. im still looking to add one to my 77 Mack

the 12 speeds were basicly a 6 speed that you could split each gear in 1/2. It would have a low low gear that was on the dash switch. a very good trans for a maxidyne spec engine. you also had 5 gears in reverse. with a maxidyne/loaded I would shift 1-2-3 then split 4th and 5th empty 1-2-3-4-5. V8 fuel economy is poor considering todays standards. 5 mpg is about the avg it will get. parts prices can be compaired to CAT prices..(= big $$$$)the v8 fuel pump alone is almost the same cost of a E6 engine overhaul! Some parts are getting harder to locate as they are old engines now and volvo dont care for the old dogs.

If you come across a 36" sleeper that you dont want please let me know. Its what my truck had but was removed before I bought it. I have a few contacts to make next time I head west.

nice find My RS has a 206" WB and is a little short for a 36" sleeper. that frame gives you plenty of options.. looks like a good project truck!

I have straights on My RS700L, 285 maxidyne its got tall stacks and is not loud at all in the cab. has a nice note when it goes by but not to the point that it would attract the police. as long as the stack is a little over the top of the cab you will be able to live with it. Not my truck but this is what it will basicly sounds like with straight stacks.

I liked that one Rob!!!!

All the exhaust needs is flex pipe to allow the cab to move up and down a few inches. on the work truck (97 IH with eagle sleeper) the dual stacks are mounted between the cab and sleeper. the pipes go under the cab to a tee pipe that is bolted to a bracket. there is a flex pipe to each stack off of this Tee pipe. truck has 400k and we had to replace the flex pipes once due to rust. cab air ride is mounted at the back of the sleeper so the flex pipes sees half of the cab movemnt that is seen at the cab air bags. Pete and KW also mount stacks to the cab. they did a simmilar set up with the flex pipes that run from the Tee pipe to the bottom of the stacks. the cab air bags should only need about 20-40 psi to lift a cab. I dont have a solid number but they only fill to a PSI that levels the cab. if its over filling it will be rock solid. all the air ride cabs I have seen you could feel the cab move if walking in the sleeper or getting in and out of the truck? regarding exhaust temps... on my RS with twin straight stacks, no heat gaurds. I cant touch the stack or external mufflers after its been running down the road. If you have 1000 deg at the turbo I would think 200-300 deg (minimu)is what the stack is at?

the bags should have give in them. I would be suprised if they did not.I would Check the leveling valve first. some times they fail or get out of wack and the rear of the cab will sag and ride on the bump stops. its a simple adjustment to get the cab to sit level. you simple adjust the arm so that the cab sits level and then tighten it back down. Just like you would on the air ride rear axels.. I have to adjust my leveling valve about every 2 years as the bags get older and have more give to them.

cool find. I forget where I saw the pics but a few years ago someone posted some info about a guy that put a mack 237 or 300 in a bulldozer. cant recall if it was a cat or what but seamed like a cool idea