Lmackattack

that sucks. looked like something let go or snapped? cable was cought and let louse.. glad no one was hurt!

i think that is correct that around 1981-83 the 300 air to air front mount became the standard way to intercool.

bull husk has it right. the tip turbine was powered off of boost that was bleed/regulated from the hot side of the intake system. The boosted air would spin the turbine and the impeller on the other side of the turbine would thus suck in cool air from the air filter. this cool air was forced to pass thry the charge cooler and would cool the boosted air. the air would simply exit the charge cooler and exhaust out in the engine bay. It was basicly a complacated way to get air to move over a surface. not sure if intercoolers were to expencive or if BBC dims were a part of the compact design? the tip turbines I saw were normaly a 285 HP Maxidyne but there was a model known as a 300+ or 315HP that was a Econodyne and had a air to water cooler under the charge cooler. it used the standard charge cooler but also used the trucks coolant system for intake temp control. I have heard that the early 350HP had the tip turbine/water combo as well but I have not seen one in person. the charge cooler only 285 was a very good engine. only thing that was a PITA was all the extra intake piping on the top and side of the motor. a good running turned up 285 can keep up or do better than a stock 300.

thanks for the info Dan. My Vin is RS786LST 32474. was sold to me as a 1978 model but build and titled show it as a 1977 model. I dont have the body lines the comes back towards the cab. I do have splash gaurds where the rear of the hood fenders end. Trent

packer.... look at the top of the hood in Robs first pic. the hood in his pic shows the body lines come up off the hood sides and then curve back to the windsheild. most RS/RL had the body line just run across the LH hood side, them up to the top of the hood, running behind the dog, and then down the RH side of the hood. hope you can follow that

welcome to the site.. Is it running or not? rusted out or not. in my opinion an old worn out truck would range from scrap price to about 3K depending on model and condition. for refrence I paid 1k for my 1st B model, it had a very rusted cab, good motor and trans rears etc... bad frame rails... I paid $500 (about scrap price) for my 2nd B model. rusted out cab, not running, good frame this is in Chicagoland

Rob who posted that pic on the old board of the Red Interior of a RS700? It showed a hood like that with a nice paint job. That hood reminds me of the 70s KW hoods that had simmilar lines...If I recall Meads RS700 now has a E7 400 and a 12 speed in it. If I recall it was wrecked and rebuilt or the cab had damage and a new cab was installed. somthing like that...

Rob that truck is owned by Mark Mead. I did some sled pulling with his son years ago. I dont know the reason for that hood but it seams some had them others did not. I kinda like them as they are odd. They could also could be found on RS600L/valuliner models. over where I keep my trucks the owner has a eastern built valuliner (RS600L)with that style hood.If I recall this truck has gone thru some rebuilds. I dont remember the whole story but I recall it had some diffrent drive train and fame work done. I see it every now and then still earning its keep. Nice truck it is Always wondered myself about the reason for the hood. Trent

swishy....how did you keep the "5th wheel" in the box clean from rocks,mud etc.... and how were you to get the gate off to hook up? that seams like a real PITA to use if you need to haul a load of stone with the trailer on. or try to un hook it with a load on? not to mention the gate having to come off and on with a load on LOL???? Herb I have to admit the air ride dump trailers have done pretty good for me. I still like springs on the tractor as it needs the traction but that air ride trailer takes alot of the bucking and bouncing away. and like you said, plum the tail gate to a quick air bag dump valve and it sits down on the axel stops pretty quick. I saw one guy dump with bags inflated and I was wondering if he hooked that up the wrong way or if his tailgate was closed? regardless. I stayed away from him in the dump.

$500 starting bid, reserve not met with no bids? wonder why its not selling... I bought My RS for 3k and drove it home from Kansas City. that truck needs 3K just to get out of the yard on its own power...poor dog....

my opinion. 24' steel end dump, you can haul anything with them. 1/4 frames stay level better as far as raising a loaded box. frameless is just about as good but a little unstable on one rear axel. the plus of a frameless is the dump angel is better and they are cheeper. you can order standard or low sides if you do alot of bob cat work.If you do go with a low side Make sure the tail gate is standard. this way the concrete will not get stuck as easy. ask me how I know...... Tubs look nice, and tend to stay cleaner but puts the load CG higher. air tail gate locks are nice and if you have the extra $ a air lifted gate is even better. less abuse on the trailer and the gate will seal better. also will reduce loads getting stuck. Air ride or spring is fine... normal pros and cons with them. electric tarps and crank tarp systems seam to be a bigger PITA trying to keep them working, let a branch tear off the pullys and electrical wires and you will see why. a simple pull tarp with spring return arms are cheep and easy to work and wont need expencive parts when the tree bends arms. ask me how I know. Alum trailers are good just for gravel and dirt clay etc... you cant use them for demo unless you want a trailer full of dents and holes. if you want a trailer to go to WORK with steel is what you want.

drain that box and see if rusty water comes out... sounds like water is under that oil and thats why it seams over filled with oil ?. Drain and refill to the top of the plug hole and your good to go.

if the oil press jumps from 30 at idle to 45+ I would say its good to go (still tight). that lamp may be hooked into a low water sencer? oil leaks are just about as common as any truck of its era. exhaust leaks seamed common on the V8s I have been around. a stock v8 does feel a little laggy and most turned to 1900. a few tweaks and it will run better but burn a bigger hole in your wallet. front axel beam should not have to be changed unless it was speced light. .74 over 8LL will give you around 69MPH at 1900RPM a 1.00(direct drive) 8LL will be 51MPH. My bet is its a .74 overdrive trans. the 440 V8 only had around 1600# of torque (stock. turned up 1800-1900# could be had. the stock aussi 600 v8s had around 2050#. we turned one up to 2050 RPM and I think it pulled better.

let me try R = R model 7 = GVWR (not sure if this is true on all 700 models) 22 = Engine model (not sure what the engine code for a 22 is?) R = Right hand drive S = six wheel chassie 1130 = build number for the model

a quicl search of AL laws looks as if your best bet would be to run a Quad axel dump... are they common in your aera?? http://www.dot.state.al.us/NR/rdonlyres/A795ACFA-5ED3-4C13-9606-289FE4AF3FE5/0/Title32Chapter9.pdf

that would depend on the laws of your state. Some stats will allow 72,380 on a quad axel others will require a 5 axel tractor trailer with a short 22' end dump. or you may be able to haul 80,000 with a 38+ foot trailer but then you will be limited on the roads you can travel with 80,000. I can go on and on but first let us know what state your in and we can go from there....

I have a pump guy in Il that turned up / calabrated some of our pulling trucks for $300-400 this is a no parts involved deal. most of it is his time and use of his pump stand. I think $800-$1000 would be the avg standard rebuild of a pump. never had a pump rebuilt so cant be for sure. Price will also depend if its a Robert Bosch or American Boasch pump. one seams to have cheaper parts? FJH will know more than I on the costs involved....fyi be glad its not a V8 Pump. they cost as much as a E6 300Hp motor...seriously!

I think you can safely turn a single frame tractor into a 6 wheel dump if you dont cut the frame and stretch it. I have seen alot of cracked single frames on 6 wheel dumps. put a weld in the rails and it will happen even quicker. Now with that said your the owner/driver and can limit what the truck will do. 6 wheelers tend to get the crap beat out of them. work a day on site and you will likly be over loaded all day long. Expect some operators to over load you all day...dirt falling off the sides! thats very hard on a single frame so dont expect it to last as long as a double frame spring ride can. I drove some R model dumps on a golf corse sites with 44k camelback rears that after years of abuse felt like Cadillac built the rear suspension. these trucks would do front wheel stands going up the grades to the dump aera, 1st gear only to the top, easy on the throttle, dont stop.and hopegully the guy in front of you makes it to the top safely. we had some jobs that you had to back up the hills and the drive tires would start to slip! you hear that moan from the gear box that makes you wonder if your feet are safe on the floor boards LOL...not good. If you have air ride will the air bags hold up to these kind of over loads? will it have the traction and articulation for the jobs? hopefully you wont see that severe of abuse but it happens. I took my 77' RS700L and put it into lowboy and dump truck use. It was set up for over the road and weighed in at 15,500 from the factory, now its at 16,000 with the wet kit, kinda light for a R model tractor as many eastern R models were around the 17,100 mark when set up for on/off road dump use. regardless it does the jobs good with the camelback but dont think it would be great for a 6 wheel dump. the single frame is not that thick, Drive shafts are sized for on road use and has 24.5 tires. Its your truck and you know its limitations. Only you know what you will need to get the jobs done.

sounds good to me...what did she say?

on the US models they have a door tag on the drivers door and stamped vin number on the RH frame rails.

Check the return spring and throttle lever first.. if thats ok then it sounds like the pump or gov is getting worn out. time for a check up! some have claimed they may run away if it gets worn out real bad...

you likely can fit a straight 4" stacks between the cab and camper body and put a muffler under the truck. looks like the hardest part will be getting a 90 deg bend at the cab corner. that engine is not to loud with straight stacks so a mini muffler should do the trick. just make sure the exit its well above the cab or your truck will be black on the top sides.

nice looking camper. The RS and RL R models are some of the finest they ever built. IMO all that truck needs is a diffrent color but thats just me.... Hope you have fun with it,

4 BOLTS UP TOP, 2 BOLTS ON THE BOTTOM, AND I THINK THERE ARE 2 BOLTS EACH SIDE NEAR THE HOOD LATCH. I DONT THINK THE HEAD LIGHT PANELS NEED TO COME OFF TO REMOVE IT....

I keep my tractor tandems at about 1/4 turn from tight and my trailer tandems at 1/2 turn from tight. the empty dump trailer always likes to lock up on a fast stop. Some trucks I drove you could set all axels the same and not worry. every truck is diffrent