Lmackattack

just a fyi you can remove the black pipe to/from the air filter/tip turbine and see the wheel. Check to see if it spinns without removing the turbine. Its a sealed unit and has self contained oil. Start the truck up and watch the wheel. it mostlikely will not spin at idel RPM but if you bring the revs up to around 1500 and get 1-2PSI of boost it should start to move on its own. If you can rev the engine and the wheel does not spin thats a problem. Im still wondering where that gasket goes to. If it has a rats nest in it the air will not be able to get out after it passes they the charge cooler. I say check the flow and movement of the turbine and then start looking for any blockage or restriction to the charge cooling system. also I know you said you have good boost but I did not see what it was exactly. if its less than 18-20 psi it may be overfueling with low boost and thats another way EGTs can get high. I had a bad turbo with mine and was only getting 14 psi max. I was hitting 1200* by the time I made it to 5th gear and had to feather the throttle and watch the gauges with a load on.

depends how long the shaft will be from trans yoke to the diff. you may need a center support bearing if its to long. the center support will mount to a crossmember closer to the transmission Driveshafts can be made easy and fairly cheep depending on if you reuse the old yokes and if you need a center support bearing. first find the length and you can go from there. you may be able to find a shaft out of a long WB truck and have it shortened?

yea 1300* is to high. the tip turbine is held on with a lage V clamp and the bleed tube hose clamp. remove those 2 clamps to get the turbine off, and see if that turbine wheel spins freely.

You want a little out side air to enter in the cold winter months because your body heat lets of moisture. When you have the windows rolled up the out side air will help take up that moisture and reduce the windows from fogging up. just like defrosting the windshield... you want out side air to take the fog off the inside of the glass. If your red dot unit is hooked up properly it will automaticly operate the cowl vent. max ac the vent is closed. you should be able to adjust the door to limit how much it opens to let out side air in.

the sound you hear from tip turbines is coming out of the cooler fins. That gasket is catching the air and sound and routing it to a diffrent aera where you cant hear it as good. If we had a pic of where its routing the air we may have a clue why they re routed it. if it was routed to a componet that needs cooling its likely that the air you hear leaking out is from your torn gasket. This is because it can escape thru the tear faster than where it was intended to be routed thry. again a pic of it would help us better... just as a learning experince take a better look at how the air flows. you will see that just a little boost is bleed off (1" pipe fom the box to the turbine) and used to power the turbine, then IIRC that air that powers the turbine is let out into the engine compartment. the turbine then pulls air from the filter thru the top air filter tube, thry the turbine and pushed across the charge cooler fins, it exhausts out into the engine compartment. 95% of the boost from the turbo runs into the top charge cooler, thry it, than out the bottom and into the intake manafold. Its a weird setup but simple to see how it works in an exploded view. you may also want to look at the Check Valve (located on the 1" pipe)(unless it was not needed for your applacation?)between the box and turbine. it should have a rubber "flap" in it that only allows air to flow into the trubine. if air tries to back flow into the engine it should shut.this prevents unfiltered air to enter the engine when the turbine is at idle. this valave will have a metal tab helps controls how much of the boosted air can flow into the turbine. if its missing or bent so that it lets to much air in you can over speed the turbine and louse boost, its a simple check.hope this helps.. Trent

Yea I have never seen that one before. The gasket I thought you needed was the one that goes under the box cover between the charge cooler and box top. the "gasket" you show (as mentioned) looks like it just routes the air that passed thry the cooler to a diffrent aera. Also noted that this air is not boost. its just air that the turbine pushed thru the cooler to cool the boosted air. Where does this gasket route air to? trans cooler,oil cooler??? your truck should make between 23-25PSi of boost under load. less than 23 you have a leak or tired turbo / engine etc...., if you hitting 25+ you got a strong runner. mine pushes 27-30 PSI on cold days and can keep up with a 300-350 mack

Donaldson makes the black plastic ram tubes with the louvered sides. I know there was a company that made the shorty/fat mouth ram tube that was stainless or chrome. I think Rob had one on a R700 truck he bought. I think it was called a turbo ram or turbo 9000 ram???? Rob may be able to tell you who made it... Trent

yep sounds about right... mine is set up for about 62MPH at 2300. 5.73 rears with a double over quad box.... fastest I have been with it was 25MPH tho...yard miles only

your old B model, if not worked, will run cold all the time in the winter months. make sure the shutters close when cold and open when hot. need to work them to get to 180, My R model mack will not go over 160 when started and left to idle in 20-30 deg weather. but as soon as I start working it she comes up to 180 and holds.

I thought all mack rears had the Power divider on the forward rear only? if you want to rebuild the power divider you dont have to pull the diff out. But if the diff has to much play in it than you might as well pull it out. Vibrations are a PITA to locate. Drive shaft,tires, power divider, cab mounts, shocks, even the throttle return spring can cause engine serge and cause vibrations. I have also heard that the camelback rears seam to cause a issue with the axels bouncing and fighting each other.

What motor? sounds like the water level is low or the thurmostat is missing/stuck open.Check water level in rad, if topped off pull thurmostat and replace with a new one that is correct for the engines operating temp.

I just bought 2 chrome round grover air horns for my R model mack, from my mack dealer, IIRC it was around $110 for both with stantions and roof gaskets

yea I heard they were NLA from mack. did you try PAI? . They make alot of mack knock off parts? I may have a used spare at the yard will have to get back to you on this over the weekend

Rob Search R.G. smith and equipment out of Des planes IL. They finished off alot of the Chicago Mack tractors. My dads truck went thru there and alot of Kanzlers R models made a stop before it went to its first owner. R.G. Smith did stuff like adding the 5th wheel, fenders, stainless parts, and other options that people ordered for factory delivery from Mack. My dads truck had steel 1/2 fenders and the old Mack I drove at Kanzler had them as well. I do know that alot are localy made by fabracators that repair dump trucks/ Dons welding in Wauconda IL made some full alum fenders for Kanzlers Pete. I know they can get Pricy tho!!

is that a old sanding box infront of the drives on the R model? Havent seen one of those in years. thanks for sharing

that looks to be an Rossi Construction R700. Out of Northlake IL?(western Chicago burbs) they have a yard near North and wolf Rd near the UP intermodal yard. I think they had 3 of them for lowboy trucks they also have a B model water truck that still sees use. at least it was still being used 2 years ago

very nice resto. kinda off tipic but Its nice to see that there are a few people that can see thru Pete and KW. Last couple of truck shows I went to was 95% paccar. its like going into a pete dealer instead of a show. I like all trucks but you have to have a mix of them to keep it intrested.

Sound like my luck. If you need to get out of the truck for some good sleep. The rainbow casino in Windover has (had) some nice cheep rooms

Ok. took the intake side snail off the CHRA and it had streaks of oil coming from behind the blades. The blades were dry but the snale and intake system was oily. Started the truck and saw no oil making its way out but it was not above idle. Checked the oil drain tube and put my finger up into the CHRA no dirt or muck to block oil return flow. Must be bad seals. Is there rebuild kits for these things? I have rebuilt Toyota and garret turbos before. Easy fix if you can get a rebuild kit. Trent

Thanks shaker...It has a brand new air filters and the other night it was pushing 27psi feeling strong

I can understand the slobber on the exhaust port from long idel times but it does not make sence to me seeing it at the turbo outlet (Boosted side) to the charge cooler box? At least I have never seen it before?I was more worried about it running away from the oil getting into the engine. Seen the aftermath of that also. Thanks for the numbers Rhasler always a big help on this site Trent

found it on my build sheet. Forgot it listed all this info engine assy # 11gba16894ap4 serial # endt6766r3314 turbocharger # 631gc465 Thanks for the help guys. Rob What does a single rebuild cost from him? if its not to much I may just send this one to him. I know they pop up on ebay sometimes dirt cheep too.. I also may have a lead on one from a friend but he has to check what engine it is on. Before I go to far tho I have to ask for an opinion on this. The oil leaking from the turbo outlet was pretty thick, very black, and did not run down the snale like clean or hot oil would. the same oil streak was coming from the leaky exhaust gasket. looks almost like a old slobering diesel in cold weather. Is it likely that the exhaust is passing thru to the intake and sooting it up and making it look like this. I have seen turbos fail but most of them just let the oil seal go or the shaft and wheel fail with a bad bearing..

Think my turbo took a dump today. Had the truck running for 30 mins this afternoon and noticed that it was slobering oil from the turbo snail/crossover pipe to the Charge cooler. also noticed oil leaking from the number 5 exhaust manafold/gasket. anyone have a part number for a reman or is anyone have a spare used one for sale? Vin RS78632474LST 285 maxidyne tip turbine.

Yes he would be proud of you but Rob you have to start putting them back together! just think what they will look like all dressed up with FULL TANKS OF FUEL! Im still putting mine back in once piece after this summers roof repair. And I havent forgetton about that steering box. Just have had no time yet. Between work travel and no time off I can barely get my stuff done Here are the latest pics with the new pipes added. you know the deal....But dont worry its not going anywhere And with those 5" pipes she sounds mean too.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ejQ2usv_FtU

very sorry to hear that. I had to watch my dad slowly meet his maker and it was difficult. He came back to the house to live his last few weeks and im glad I had things to do besides thinking of his state all day. What im trying to get at is sometimes a hobby such as a truck,car, moder trains,,,,etc... is something that helps us get thru the tuff times. Not sure if the truck is paid for yet, and not shre if its been a good or bad truck for you? but it may help to keep something you like so that your mind is clear and involved with things that allow you to enjoy life a little. just talking from my experince. My Best wishes go out to you. Regards Trent