AZB755V8

No one said Mack stuff was cheap. Most of it is built well but rust and corrosion protection was not a high priority until they started to galvanize R model metal cabs, fiberglass for the MH. All else was left to the elements. You want to play with the big dogs, buck-up. PAI has stuff but not everything. You can stay on the porch and whine like a school girl otherwise, or search for parts. I am constantly looking. LOL There are a few here that have parts but this is not the place for everything you may need. Some really good advise here as well. You ain't messing with a Yugo here. Good used parts are fine to, just have to find them which is half the fun of keeping these trucks road worthy if your's is a hobby truck. Work truck, got to have the parts now to keep them working and pay the price.

I have had good luck with MH parts at Mack. Even got new windshields and gasket for reasonable price. Yes the prices are list but I have a relationship with a counter guy or two and get 15-20% off. Have to look but the lower box maybe MH specific. The tops are the same as most R models, with several finish options. Unless yours are really bad weld a 3/16" plat in the bottom and let it go, buy new tops, that is what everyone sees anyway.

This is how the frame splice turned out for my RW. It was done about 15 years ago and going strong. Outside of frame front weld just ahead or rear fuel tank mount see crossmember just behind. Total double frame splice is 4 feet. Rear of splice ends at rear edge of back crossmember and welded Mid splice with frame bolts. There are a total of 12 bolts per side, 4 in each crossmember front and rear, 4 bolts mid-span per rail. Front crossmember behind fuel tank. This is where the splice would be on a MH about 4 foot in length. Happy Splicing

Sure, cut the old rails behind the cab after the fish belly about 3-4 feet past. Cut the new rails to slip over the old, splice should be about 3-4 feet. New rail should go right against the widening fishbelly. Top of new frame will be about 5/16 higher than before. Have enough room to bolt a crossmember at each end of the splice. Weld the end of each frame together. Have photos of this if you need, was done to my 88 Superliner. Old rails 9.5 new rear 10.5 high and can hardly tell it was spliced. Plus the wheel base was extended to 245"

PM me. I can do a panel for you to review and start production.

Up until a few years ago a lot of the R model parts were available from Mack. When I started accumulating parts for my B it was at the 25 year old mark and parts were getting harder to get. Same for my 89 Superliner, got stuff from Mack until a few years ago, about 25 years after production for that model stopped. One big thing is in 2000 Volvo took over and most of the Pre-2000 Mack factory parts have been depleted by now & by design not coincidence. Most of the B model stuff is gone too. What is left is expensive or cheap Chinese knockoffs. A lot of the guys that were interested and made the parts are retired and the diminished demand makes for low profit so why do it to feed the family? Lancaster Upholstery did make interior kits for B & L cabs but can not get the tan material anymore. I was thinking of making R model interiors by actually stitching them instead of heat setting the vinyl. Why? because I have the machine to do it that way and have the knowledge to do it. Lastly I don't need to feed the family as I am retired and would do it as long as it was fun. Even doing it this way in the USA a full R Model kit in any color would be around $1800- $2000. After paying for material and labor to make it happen and me to get $200-250 per kit. They would not be original but what I could do with the equipment I have, it would be better than factory... but who would buy these kits? Could get it done in China for far less but not by me. The stuff can be made but by who and for how much? The people you talk about in this country are gone as well as the materials and manufacturing skills, sorry to say.

It's called Volmack. No need to keep older Macks around with their mentality. Volvo is not supporting something they had no involvement in. Better get the parts you can now, when there gone their gone for sure. R models are great trucks!

It is well know that there is claimed horsepower & torque then there is real horsepower & torque. The other engine manufactures claimed it Mack really made it. The E9 stock had a low 1900rpm governor as compared to 2400rpm with the older ENDT866. Govern an E9 at 2500rpm, add a turbo or two, like the military version and look out it came alive with 750-950hp reliably and dependably. There are many stories of a 350 Mack out pulling a 400 or 425hp of this or that engine maker. Same for the E9 way more than a few stories of just seeing tail lights and a distinct sound passing by. I think Mack under rated more than a few of their engines to sort of keep place with the pack. The E9 was sure capable of more than 500hp and easily be tuned to do so as a few guys knew how to. This was back when all injection pumps were mechanical and a simple screw turn could make a big difference. Emissions had to do with engine ratings & fuel consumption with lower being better, Right? Who actually tested individual truck as they do now back then? In Detroit Ford, Chrysler & GM played games with HP & Torque rating of the 426 and 427 big blocks. All the Hi-performance engine were rated at 425-450hp but most put out more. Think in this case it was a governmental and insurance line that had to be towed and not exceeded.

Scotty, It is your truck to make whatever you what. You need ability, money, time, patience, Enthusiast and Interest you do have, to start changing things. I read that you want to change, everything that makes it a What is an antique , Tough as it comes, hard riding, hard shifting, hard steering, hot, loud, uncomfortable, classic, leaks oil, made to last, what do you want to keep? The trucks were make to get a job done and this one survived for this long all factory original and waiting for you. It would be fare easier to put the cab and hood and fenders on a modern Ram 2500 with 5.9 Cummins, keeping the 8 foot bed, than what you are talking about. Do you have mechanical ability, not knowing trucks? Asking where to start here, sounds like a kid with a new toy, no disrespect but it is what it it is. Get it running good and road worthy, safety is first seeing you will have the wife and kids along for a ride. Tires, Brakes, Lights, Steering all in good shape is a must before changing anything. Enjoy it for a year or two before changing things, chances are it will not go together as easily as it will come apart. There are many trucks that owners have the best intentions for and never see the road again. My shortest rebuild took 2 years the longest 17 years so there are variables to any project. If it's a keep it a just my opinion though, most important have Fun

Holly Crap Batman! That is Itchy's first LTL, use to be a wrecker, The Great Pumpkin. Still has his old phone number on the door. Glad to see it still around. Boy it's got some history! Great looking survivor!

Got to this post a little late but the bright finish ceramic powder coat is the way to go. Right from the powder coat shop it looks good. It takes a few days to have done not months like chrome and a fraction of the cost plus it holds up well. If you take a good aluminum polish to it, it is hard to tell it from chrome. I was just polishing the stack and guard on my LTL that was ceramic powder coated, tank straps too. It looked good before but great after. Just look at my resent LTL post, before the polish and see. Other thing is use the chrome nut covers to dress up the hubs and pinch bolt nuts, it really makes a difference, done on the LTL also with painted cones.

Thanks for liking, Fury, you say Fury... Bought this 1960 conv. for the wife to restore, she likes convertibles. She lost interest before I got to it, thank God, wanted a new Vett conv, instead. I sold it back to the same guy I got it from after 10 years. He was happy to get it back, raccoon and rat crap still in place from when I got it. He told me what he paid for it when he bought it back, your right on the nothing thing!

The Superliner has smoked on demand since the pump was turned up along with some other stuff, bad habit but I live with it. I like to smoke a good cigar every now and then in and out of the cab, can't leave a friend smoke alone. Just found a pristine big gold dog ashtray to keep me company when I can't smoke with the RW. Had the chrome one for a while and a great companion but needed a friend to carry the ash load in a different location. Thought getting my smoking buddies together would make a good photo.

Wow, that is a collection that took years to accumulate and very impressive. I have few diecast and know the cost. Wife know how much you got into it? Hope not or you may have to buy her some stuff. Nice collection!

Ya, maybe sick or half crazy but its fun... not hurting anyone. If it weren't for the interest in working on old stuff there would be something else like, drinking, gabbling, chasing women, etc. That would have my interest, all is money and time spent. You drag race as well as I did, never get out what was put in, cost is crazy these days, but it is worth it to work on something for a week to to run it 4-6 times down the strip to work on it again. Nothing like a nice clean drag car. Belvedere: Low 9's@147 Cuda: 10.4's@128 Collecting dust, no one wants them or know how to work on them these days. 34 all steel Ford hasn't been out in years. Never washed my hand before working on anything, for 50 years, but told mechanics gloves keep things cleaner. Rages still work for me, I laugh too.

Thanks but don't be sad. I know that doing this to a truck may not be for a lot of guys. However If I took the, don't do it you will never get your time or money back, point of view with the other interest I have like the wife, kids, house, businesses I would not have tried at all. My Wife is still beautiful after 28 years together, Boys are not on drugs and in collage, home is a mansion, shop is finally done, great guard dogs, lot a guns, businesses built and sold. It all took a lot of time and money, stress, thinking, fun, etc. No regrets, made and lose millions and still retired without a worry except health. But why try and keep fixing, helping, caring for everything. It is all going to die, fall apart or not work over time? A lot more people have cars, boats, planes, motorcycles with very little use. Wife has little use her cars, a Benz conv, Vett conv, Maserati (piece of crap), because I have trucks. She likes them I like trucks. No one can actually use a 67 years old truck, sort of like a 67 year old man going to work everyday with 25 year old men digging ditches. Who is going to drive a 3 stick, no power steering, no A/C, no airide, no stereo, no emissions, antique work horse? How is going to write commercial insurance on this old a truck? No matter what if in an accident it would be because of the age of the truck and safety. No front brakes on the LTL they were optional back then. This is an original 50-57 LTL, parts from all those years, not a LT cab and hood on a new frame and drivetrain as most are. Just for thought if I built truck models, painted portraits, assembled puzzles, read books, etc. What would I have to do with the objects once I finished them, not much. I just have a hobby on a different scale. Thanks for the option, I just am having fun with some big old stuff that people like to look at and appreciate but few want or keep in great shape.

Thanks, When I got it off Itchy it was in need of some attention. Since it's been in a good caring home along with a few other good old Dogs. Had all the sheet metal striped to bare metal, had some chrome done and went from all green to tan and green for paint. Found a few pieces to make it complete with all the 141 aluminum castings that make it an LTL. It is a Great old truck and the true definition of a long hood Dog!

It's OK, got here and that counts a lot. Most guys here know what it takes to get a retired 67 year old truck to look good. There is always next year for the shows.

Since Covid19 has killed all the truck shows for most of the year it was time to give the old dog a bath and groom before going to sleep for the summer. As with any old dog she was dirty and dusty from just laying around, just waiting to go to a few shows. So had to take the dog to the detailer, sign on building, and get polished and waxed because things are starting to open up again cause of Covid19. Wanted to give my neighbor some much needed work. It took four days to detail, bugs actually etched into the paint, glass water etched, polish aluminum parts and wheels. Turned out a lot better than in the past and boy she was a mess.

Did Didn't know that a B-61 can with power steering but I learn something everyday. Maybe after market part? Is the cylinder air or hydraulic and by what manufacture? Listed in the wrong section as this is parts for sale not parts wanted.

The only gold base for a Bulldog was for Display Only. I have one that I intend on using for a Superliner. Knowing full well one was Never put on on from the factory, but I could be wrong. Bringing up the Second point, the wife (excuse me the elephant) not by size but memory. She can not remember what day it is or what we were talking about 30 seconds ago but bring up memories from 25 years ago as if they just happened. Expecting me to remember what we did on our second date, I still do remember exactly what we did on the the third date.

The condenser in any system just needs to fit the area available. The newer R-134 condensers are a lot more efficient than older R-12 ones and much smaller. There is one other thing that is important, where the ports are located and which way they are directed. It did take me a few condensers to get the right one for the RW. Using my local A/C Red Dot distributor helped a lot. Taking one and trying it then returning it at no restocking charge. The 77R1105 had the ports high enough to clear the wide frame of a Superliner II. The other condensers would have worked with a standard R or maybe an RS. The area needed is approx, 33" wide X 9" tall X 1.25" thick under the intercooler. If you need exact dimensions I can get them in a day or so.

Rob, Glad you got the parts and information needed to cool down your RW. I understand saving a buck and I freely help anyone that ask even though the information cost me time and money. I do support my local parts Guy's and their businesses. Without them the only thing we would have is internet on-line sales and hope the right parts come. Remember when the Mack parts counter Guy's could help you without a Vin# and looking at a computer screen for 30 minutes to find the correct part. Old times guy would just go in the back and bring out what you were looking for, those days are long gone. It is nice that a few Real parts guys still exist and it does not cost that much to support them. I spent $800 in parts, with the higher pressure hoses, which were 1/3 the cost. Parts without hoses were $570 adding $220 for crimped custom hoses locally. Plus, got information, talked to a knowledgeable person, returned a unused part (without restocking fee or shipping) and had hoses made in 15 minutes, all expected for Great sales/service. Also had the Evaporator coil tested for $20, it was good that was in the $570 for parts. Think I got a good deal plus share what I learned.

Yep, got to work with what I got, an E9 and Mack 18 Speed, it was the hot set-up years ago. Guy's made careers out of shifting Mack's and got by. If I was really working it a big Road Ranger would be a consideration. But just because I am getting soft in my old age! Just think there are "Truckers/Drivers" that don't know what a clutch is these days. If it doesn't have and Automatic they can't drive it. Let alone fight with a Mack trans. An old Mack 2 stick Tri-Plex would be out of the question to shift, no synchromesh, no nothing, just sound and fell. It would be considered Driver abuse to have anyone drive one now. I get deliveries and the Drives ask about the old Mack's in the building and want to see. Everyone sees the two sticks in the B-Model and says they heard of them but never seen one. Then I show them the three sticks in the LTL and blow them away. "How do you keep track of what gear your in" is the fist question. I just say it's on a indicator plate above the windshield, they look and say which one? I say it takes all three. They leave and said good thing they drive Automatics.

Whatz U Talkin about Man!! They ARE sweet to drive. Specially if they are turned up a bit. About 2400rpm (500rpm over stock governor) those V-8's start sounding like a locomotive and pull like one too. Smooth as Silk, good thing you don't need to shift for nothing those Mack T2180 trans don't like to shift much above 2000rpm's. Just hang on to the wheel and Smile.