AZB755V8

We out in the country where I lived $1000 bucks is hard to come by. If I had a thousand buning a hole in my pocket that puller may be on my list. If someone on here is asking on a how to, I will certainly help. Most on this forum are do-it your-self Guys. Thanks for telling me/us how to spend money most of us don't have. I acually did a sleeve/ piston, head and turbo replacement on a Saturday/Sunday on my only truck at the time that dropped a valve seat and made a mess. I had a 1400 mile load to deliver by that Wensdesday. There were no tool stores open nor internet at that time. So made my own for Mack diameter pistons and pulled many sleeves with it. Yes, fine thread would be better but course was all they had at the hardware store and it still works. If you can't turn a wrench weld the nut and use a big air impact back in my day, battery now. Funny but I had to pull the sleeve and piston/rings out of another junk engine to fix the one in that truck. It ran for years that way. Rod bearing was like new so reused that as well. Country living and making things work was how things got done.

I know you are talented in making things. For a few Mack engines that I have pulled sleeves on. I made a liner puller for the cost of a 1/2-13 threaded rod, maybe $5 at the time. 5/8" if you want to be heavy duty. All that is needed is a piece of 1x2 or so bar stock. The bottom piece need to have the four corners go under the lower edge of the sleeve and be taped 1/2-13 in the center for the treaded rod. You can put it in the sleeve from the top. the top piece needs to be wider than the sleeve and have a clearance hole 17/32 for the rod. A piece of the 1x2 is welded or screwed to each end of the bar stock and clear the sleeve. Double nut the end of the threaded rod and wrench it up. All that is needed is have the sleeve move manybe 1 inch and it is unseated and come out with your hands. this will save $1000 for a puller that you will use just a few times. To install the sleeve turn the top piece upside down ontop of the new sleeve and Dead Blow it it into place.

Well I just showed a shiny one, not common but were made for ashtrays and collectibles. It will be on the Superliner when it is restored. A few photos of it and engine, 1200hp, Ya its turned up a bit or two, Rolls coal with the best of them, staight 6" pipes, and what it does best, hauling the load. That is after turning it down a little to haul a trailer at road speed, it was a Pull Truck and did very well in Wisconsin. Full Rockwell Lockers, 18sp, big clutch, steel flywheel, etc. Was going to the Reno show a few years ago with the trailer.

This is the place I got my Superliner Hood from years ago. It is a nice heavy hood and fits correctly. Not brached or renforced exactly as original but I think just as strong. Think they sell to the truck shops and may be what you have seen. https://jonesperformance.com/categories/truck-hoods/mack-truck-hoods/mack-superliner-hoods I dont thing they still do the round headlight version but you can ask.

These are the three finishes the Bulldog came in. Also Chrome and painted for military use.

The bulldog was done both ways, Gold Plated and Painted. The best bet is a perfect one is on an ashtray. Both big and small bulldogs are on the trays. If the finish is shinny it is Gold plated. Brushed or matt finish, Painted

Forgot to mention Mack had many engine options from the E6 to the E9 all with several different HP ratings.

A RW 700 is a real Superliner and a RW 600 is a want to be when it grows up 🤣 Really heavier Spec the higher the number pretty much with all Mack's. Different numbers for the different engines basically.

Looking at that website I would at least give then a call for a rebuild on your clutch. That way there is no wrong parts or at least a minimum. Check to see about the wear shims as mentions. When I did my double disc Mack pusher clutch it went to Southbend Clutch in IN years ago. They put in heavier pressure plate springs and ceramic pucks instead of organic clutch lining. Not to hard on the foot, holds well and no chater. No clutch smell when slipping it a little ether.

You are not looking in the right places. I had a few pumps in a Bosch shop several years ago. P3000 & P7100's to have governor and flow calibrations. There were on the shelf for years and wanted them set for a project engine. Fact is there was One Guy in the whole shop that could work on them and limited at that. No Spec's on any of them being all mechanical. I had to tell him the settings I wanted. Of course "Well that seems off" Well then tell me were the settings should be, OK I'll set them to your numbers. Said don't worry about it took the pumps and sent them to Fair Valley Performance in Wisconsin, 608-643-0200. They do AG, Pulling, Truck injection. P3000 & P7100 pumps are their specialty. For stock to full-on smokers. They had everything to rebuild these pumps and more. Send your pump there, almost sure it will come back with new plungers, if bad at a reasonable price and work ready.

If there are 22" bias or radial tube tires available anywhere I am interested. I have 22" Alcoa's split rims on a LTL. My tires are OK for short runs and shows but I would never take a trip or have any weight on them now. These tires where hard to get 20 years ago and had to be ordered from India. Cheat is the brand. I put 24.5s on another truck as good 22" Alcoa's are nonexistent today as well as the tube tires. Then try and find a tire shop that will work on split rims. So 22.5 or 24.5 is your only option now. Also a great point by, mattb73lt, if you get a flat or need a tube tire no one will have anything but 22.5 or 24.5 tubeless radials in a shop anywhere.

Late to the Party on the Turbos. What is the turbo part number you have? I have several 865/866 turbos on the self for years now. Have to dig them out. Used and spin freely, no slop in shafts. If interested let me know. $300 plus shipping each.

That is not an 864 but ether an early 865 or 866 with rounded valve covers and single turbo. The 864's had issues and were replaced by the owners with the later V8 or converted to 6 cylinders. The B-755 I have has an 866 V8 in it now.

Most guys on here would agree that a LTL, B-75 or Superliner are true classics. In that order of age and scarcity. Also for parts availability, none to some. The wow factor is an original LTL. Think you would want an LTH that has steel instead of aluminum components. The Good LTL is beautiful and seen it in person but the only thing LTL is the sheet metal. Even my LTL has been repowered but all else is true 53 LTL. Depends on what you want to get and pay for. But you are asking: If you like what you got find some nice sheet metal, be it LTL, B-75, Superliner and mount it on the frame and drivetrain you have already. There are many truck done that way, remember the BRC from Mack? You would have a one and only. There were 6x6 B-models but very few and no 6x6 LTL's. It would certainly be a standout. Just a thought and money ahead.

I bought L and B cab vent window seals from Steele Rubber Products in the past. Along with the window track with whiskers and lower wiper strips. That was 10 years ago. I just looked on their website and they still offer the B Cab vent window seal and window track. It would be worth a call to ask if there are any old stock L cab seals still available. I think I have a set of L cab seals left from the last restoration in good shape. I got new ones and shelved these. It will be a few months before I can get back there to look if anyone is interested?