R.E.D
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Everything posted by R.E.D
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You are right.but won't stop small debris from getting in the cooling system from what could be negligent driver error from putting the coolant cap down somewhere or adding water to make the right mix..in my opinion a filter would add a second barrier of protection..but I might be wrong...just my .02 cents Red
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No such thing in my area.they keep part numbers more secret than the coca cola formula
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My cv713 did not come equipped from factory with a coolant filter .I would like to add one.attached is a picture of a truck that has the mount for the coolant filter , mine has two npt plugs in its place.Does someone have the part number for the coolant filter mount?or is just better to install a generic one from Amazon or eBay that mounts to engine or chassis.thanks Red
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One thing I did notice is that my MPG went up by .5 miles per gallon.and the power is more constant throughout the RPM range.
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I'm not sure , because I just replaced the one with high pressure and the one that was stuck..but he did say 291 was kinda on the threshold and would need to be replaced if it went lower than that.
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The old one seemed hard to spin when removing it ,but new one spun better .I'll check it out and keep you all posted
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Forgot to add that truck today started humming..is this the centrimax or oil pump causing it? I don't think it's because rod bearings , everything was good on that part
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UPDATE I took off the oil pan, checked lifters and from what I could see the were oriented in the correct way.cam lobes looked great .I adjusted valve lash and ticking went away..then it started ticking again,valve cover off I noticed valve yoke for 1 piston laying there , by this time truck was miss firing..I adjusted the valve again and noise went away...I triple check my torque on all valve jam nuts to 45ft pounds.seems to be running great.ill keep you all posted. Ps:also check rod bearing and they have plenty life left in them.
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Spacer looks like the one the picture attached .has a grommeted hole for the brake control wire.
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So what I'm saying is that it might not be the original ecm to the truck,but since it didn't bother performance it never got taken to mack to be programmed to the trucks vin.
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Mine has those same two codes because my original ecm pins corroded and I had to switch it with one out of a truck that had engine brake.it cant see the engine brake circuit therefore it throws the code.
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First time doing these exhaust spring push rod engines...I was used to etechs and mech e7s.....how I miss my old mechanical e7, 350hp with an adjustment on the puff limiter and it would run circles around the ami..best of all..no computer
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No disrespect at all, I'm here to learn . I went by the mack repair manual .I lined up the valve marks at the flywheel on 1 &6 . 1 being on compression i checked the lash.then proceeded to 5 which is 120degres apart and the next on the firing order. And so on an so forth , two full revolutions to check all valves...but please advice if I missed something.like I said .I'm here to learn..also pressed the spring on the exhaust pushroad and held it pressed when checking exhaust lash...
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I sure do hope so...but the weird thing is that the truck is not down on power or blowing any kinda colorful smoke..next step is to run the overhead as I only checked it the other day , didn't want to start messing with it and have it affect diagnosis..like I mentioned before, valve lash was only slightly off on a couple valves..not enough to cause the ticking ,I supposed back then
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Joey I kinda was getting the same idea,but didnt unhook the belt, I stethoscoped the water pump and alternator and they sounded good..noise kinda sounds like a blown exhaust gasket on a small block Chevy.
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And this is where I bought the Bosch remans. https://www.mddistributorsstore.com/bosch/0986-445-008/reman-eup-injection-pump
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Machine that tested the eups here in houston sounded just like this one. https://youtu.be/elCZ3HMp8k4
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Local shop in houston.they are tooled to test them.I replaced the higher pressure eup.so all in all replaced two with reman Bosch .yet the ticking is still there ..not as bad but it's still there..I'll investigate a bit longer and let you all know.
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One of the eup was higher in in pressure.413 he said, all other ones were in the 340 to 370? could this high pressure cause a fuel knock?
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Guide pins look good, haven't measured them but all look good,I think the book says 2mm stick out ,can't quite remember.i had all the eup tested ..the 3 suspected to be good passed the test.two of the ones with loose springs just needed a new clip the injector shop guy said....so far , one was bad for sure.ill pick them up tomorrow morning and see what's what..I got some Bosch reman on will call at m&d distributors ready to be picked up in case I decide to just replace the 3 questionable ones..431$ a piece.
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It's required per the manual , but I really couldn't tell you.Im just gonna be there anyway for the hp upgrade so might as well.
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Yessir..I already have a efile open from them to upgrade to 427hp..i plan to kill two birds with one stone..also need to remove the 5 minutes shuttoff.
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They looked great, so did the rollers.no scratches.valve lash was still good.. could use adjustment on some valves , I'll run the overhead once everything is back together
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Update ,3 eups bad , springs seem to be collapsed because keeper was just dancing around..roller are excellent , eup guide pins look good too.
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