R.E.D

I hear ya brother!

Well this one is a real Head scratcher.no chunks on magnet or bottom of pan.my next step is to remove the pushrod and inspect it.i couldn't do it today because I don't have new rocker shaft bolts.didnt want to remove them and re use the old ones.. Joey I would never be insulted sir.im come to this site to learn and it would be foolish of me not to listen to learned people such as you , fjh,mackpro and many others that have given good advice over the years of me being a part of this forum. With that said lol.i do know how to set valve lash .cam lobe looks great with no pitting or noticeable wear indentation...I removed the valve yoke so I could push lifter up and I rolled it with my finger and it's doesn't have a flat spot or broken..I figured as long as this issue has been ongoing something might have f-up already..I'll keep you all posted on the progress...as of now I don't see the point of throwing a cam at it before I figure it out .thanks to all for the help. RED

This is #4 exhaust is on the left.im checking pushrod now.

Okay, so I have the oil pan off right now as I'm typing this post. Camshaft lobe for the number four exhaust valve is good. I reached and felt the lifter roller and it is also good. Now I'm baffled because this valve is the only one that always needs to be adjusted. I will take a picture of the cam lobe and post it and see what you guys think.

Fellas, Truck is a 2004 cv713. Ami370 No engine brake No adjustable valve yokes. It already has the 5" exhaust with s400 turbo and etech exhaust manifold. Also has the 427/460 stock injectors. Monday I will be call ATL diesel to order the AC camshaft 454gc5247 along with the valve and eup lifter kit. I got this cam number from my buddy's truck.he has an 04 ch with an. Ac427 with no engine brake.

Thanks you sir.

What is the best way to do a valve lash after cam install?how can I tell that # 1 is at TDC compression?and not #6? I was told that It was done by lining the timing marks on crank ,cam , and idler but I don't trust it.i know that all those 3 gears line up in time every 16 revolutions therefore I wonder how it's done.Thanks in advance. Red

https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/50251-mack-ai460-ai427-ami-low-torque-low-horsepower-poor-fuel-mileage-granite-dead-dog-remediation/?do=findComment&comment=372944

Please excuse my nagging.just want to be sure I'm installing the cam that will work.i know this is a experimental procedure that should make an improvement and that I'm taking a risk ,But last thing I want is to put everything back together and it doesn't work right.I can't spare to be down a truck.im barely handling my work load ..lol.

This for a non engine brake engine correct?

Thanks.

The thing is that I'm trying to get Ami exhaust bump camshaft out and put a cam from an Ac motor that has no exhaust bump.Just not sure which ac cam to use.

I'm guessing it's one of these two.

Ok sounds good..I'm looking through the camshaft bulletin posted on another thread and trying to figure out which is the Ac cam I need.my truck does not have an engine brake.

These parts from ATL are PAI brand?

Thanks Joey, I found it in my book..

Do asets have offset cam keys?I thought it was only etechs? But I'll make sure anyway.

I figured as much .just wanted a second opinion.i have seen you mentioned Atl before and since then I've been checking out their website...only thing I need is the part number of the ac cam ..will be getting rid of the ami exhaust bump..is has been talked about in the "dead dog remediation"post but I haven't seen a concrete answer on the subject yet as to what part number...my buddy has a 2004 sfa ch with a AC 427hp rating..been thinking of using his vin to find cam that way too . please advice. Why steel lifters over the ceramic?

No sir..fixed valve bridges.trans is t310m...I'll take a look this weekend concerning the h ring.funny thing is that it only takes almost one full turn of the adjustment screw to get back into the .024 lash..truck runs good and little by little the ticking gets more pronounced...I always torque to spec ,and never has the jam but been loose.

No engine brake...I haven't dropped the pan since I started this post ,and everything looked great.this motor does not have valve joke adjustment from what I saw ,just the valve lash...no Poppin sound just ticking..I will check the pushrod and shine a light down there to see if the h ring has come loose.Truck does not smoke at idle or under load..just smokes black when I get it on it and roll some coal..lol.

The ticking sound has returned...over the past few months I've isolated it to the exhaust valve on the number 4 cylinder..it constantly needs to be adjusted every two weeks and ticking goes away. Besides a bad roller on a lifter , what else causes a valve to loose it's valve lash adjustment?I'm currently running the truck and it seems fine just that one valve is acting up.im just ready to throw a cam from an Ac motor if this one is toast.

Nice!🔧🔧

Brings to mind the movie "windtalkers" staring Nicholas Cage

If you go to mack emedia you can download load the whole pdf file on this transmission.for free ..just type 10-122 , which is the part number for the publication and then click on view file.it will download the PDF.

Blow gun all the junk from the top of transmission as to minimize dirt going in to the trans..the rear cover you need to remove has two dowels on left and right side.you will need to pry evenly on the cover because if one side gets brought up to high it will want to bind .