R.E.D

The cover on the side of the diff should have a magnet ,check for metal sticking to it .There's always a tiny amount from normal wear,but you shouldn't see chunks.i would drain fluid from front and rear diff.If you've only owned it for a year and never have changed the oil ,now would be a good time.

I get such nostalgia watching this.this style cab is still relevant after 30 plus years .

I like my t310m , very lo and lolo gears..and probably same length as your t2090 so you wouldn't need a drive shaft change. Red

I'm glad you got your truck on the road .Things like this is why I never take any of our trucks to a dealership.They will run the little guy out of business.Glorified parts changers that they are ,without any concerns of their customers.I have 4 local mack dealerships and all are as useless as tits on a boar 🐗 hog.I would suggest you shop around for someone in your area who is proficient with macks and that is proud of his work and his word.Just my .02 cents. Red

I rarely deal with Mackvo...since being around macks since I was knee high of grasshopper..I think I've only being there less thank 20 times.Always bad customer service,and price mark up of more than 100 percent of some stuff..and yes ,over the last 15 - 20 years it has gotten worse..I'm working on getting a parts book of ebay that way I can get part numbers and buy PAI. RED

Thank you sir.

If I had to guess, I think there is big disconnect in the automotive industry between the engineering and the practical side of things.These engineers pat themselves in the back by saving weight or making something more affordable,yet never think of the mechanic or owner that's going to be f***ed down the line...just saw the other day a video of a a/c condenser on a late model ford explorer that needed to whole front end removed.wtf?...I'm ranting lol. Red

I haven't checked.i would like to have the new bolts on hand first.

Anyone have the part number for the rocker arm bolts?

I make a habit of putting an inline circuit breaker..saves the motor and switch..if it pops up I know I have a short or drawing to much amperage , as when trying to wind it in going down the road.usually people don't stop trying to wind until they see smoke..lol

I Shone a light down the side of the pushrod hole and h ring "seems " to be in place .and lifter looks to be tracking right..idk..once I remove rockers arm and shaft ,I'll get a better look..what Steeler is saying makes perfect sense.

Yea ,this was a roll off originaly.i tried to feel if rocker arm bushing to shaft clearance was off but everything seemed tight.

I hear ya brother!

Well this one is a real Head scratcher.no chunks on magnet or bottom of pan.my next step is to remove the pushrod and inspect it.i couldn't do it today because I don't have new rocker shaft bolts.didnt want to remove them and re use the old ones.. Joey I would never be insulted sir.im come to this site to learn and it would be foolish of me not to listen to learned people such as you , fjh,mackpro and many others that have given good advice over the years of me being a part of this forum. With that said lol.i do know how to set valve lash .cam lobe looks great with no pitting or noticeable wear indentation...I removed the valve yoke so I could push lifter up and I rolled it with my finger and it's doesn't have a flat spot or broken..I figured as long as this issue has been ongoing something might have f-up already..I'll keep you all posted on the progress...as of now I don't see the point of throwing a cam at it before I figure it out .thanks to all for the help. RED

This is #4 exhaust is on the left.im checking pushrod now.

Okay, so I have the oil pan off right now as I'm typing this post. Camshaft lobe for the number four exhaust valve is good. I reached and felt the lifter roller and it is also good. Now I'm baffled because this valve is the only one that always needs to be adjusted. I will take a picture of the cam lobe and post it and see what you guys think.

Fellas, Truck is a 2004 cv713. Ami370 No engine brake No adjustable valve yokes. It already has the 5" exhaust with s400 turbo and etech exhaust manifold. Also has the 427/460 stock injectors. Monday I will be call ATL diesel to order the AC camshaft 454gc5247 along with the valve and eup lifter kit. I got this cam number from my buddy's truck.he has an 04 ch with an. Ac427 with no engine brake.

Thanks you sir.

What is the best way to do a valve lash after cam install?how can I tell that # 1 is at TDC compression?and not #6? I was told that It was done by lining the timing marks on crank ,cam , and idler but I don't trust it.i know that all those 3 gears line up in time every 16 revolutions therefore I wonder how it's done.Thanks in advance. Red

https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/50251-mack-ai460-ai427-ami-low-torque-low-horsepower-poor-fuel-mileage-granite-dead-dog-remediation/?do=findComment&comment=372944

Please excuse my nagging.just want to be sure I'm installing the cam that will work.i know this is a experimental procedure that should make an improvement and that I'm taking a risk ,But last thing I want is to put everything back together and it doesn't work right.I can't spare to be down a truck.im barely handling my work load ..lol.

This for a non engine brake engine correct?

Thanks.

The thing is that I'm trying to get Ami exhaust bump camshaft out and put a cam from an Ac motor that has no exhaust bump.Just not sure which ac cam to use.

I'm guessing it's one of these two.