R.E.D
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Everything posted by R.E.D
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The vmac 3 service manual is available for downloads from mack e media for free.Part number 8-211.
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I believe 2180 which is the older model has a bit more overdrive.71 instead of .73 of the t318..so you would be loosing a tiny bit of top speed..also I think the older model trans ptos will not work on the t318 .. hopefully someone will chime in and verify this . Red
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If everything mentioned above checks out , have someone move steering wheel left to right.. paying close attention to u bolts and springs.
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If you have these two plugs (see picture ) then it's probably a filter someone added ,as these two plugs are the mount for the factory filter(coolant conditioner)
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Is coolant filter an add on type?.. reason I ask is because these engines rarely came with the factory filter because they were meant to use bulldog extended life coolant.
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My 10 speed t310m had a similar issue, shift fork was very worn also in conjunction with worn synchro gear ...I took the rear cover off and welded the shift fork up and grinded it down to size..this quick fix got me through the busy summer..then rebuilt the whole transmission..like FJH mentioned,the rear part can be removed but will need a specialty bracket to hold the 3 shafts in place...if truck is new to you ,I would remove transmission completely and have it gone through....main boxes are kinda bulletproof, synchros are the Achilles heels. Just my .02 cents RED
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Could've been that our drivers were banging the gears in ,since the super 10 were kinda slow to rpm drop in the next gear...
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My pops had 2 chs with super 10, they were tandem dump trucks.shift forks would brake like clockwork every year.It was with different drivers too..we ended up just swapping them to 9 speeds.... problem solved
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I had this issue...and it's the air dryer constantly blowing air out.. remember air compressor is feed clean boosted air from your intake manifold....my would purge and would not build boost...all the sudden it would purge and boost would shoot back up....I'm not saying your 4-5 code isn't also causing issues,but definitely take a look at you air dryer....this low boost condition causes really high egt and if you don't have a pyro ,you could cause damage to your engine. Just my .02 cents RED
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Agreed..I usually back out the eup hold down bolts a couple turns.then pry on the corner of the eup to break the seat of the orings..if under pressure from the cam lobe , they eup will lift without much effort...then I rotate the engine to allow the spring to decompress..Joey you're correct..the plunger is made to precise tolerances.and should be removed from eup in a clean environment...when I took all my eups to get tested..the injection shop tech told me that the slightest spec of debris could cause the plunger to bind.
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If you ever do this job again, it is best to rotate the engine so the cam lobe it's not pushing on the eup spring. If the eup would have been good, it could have gotten damaged from flying out of that hole... Same for procedure for installation.. and if by any chance you have ceramic eup rollers , don't drop them in and let them hit the cam.
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I've gotten all of mine from eBay, I keep em in a several ring binders , which I can take to the yard and scroll through when my memory needs refreshing..the electronic copies of stuff I have ,I just print out the pages of what I will be working on that day.
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Go to the mack e media site..on the search box input the part number of the repair manual that Joey showed on his picture (5-106).it's gonna take you to another screen where it tells you that it's 30$...click on the part number again , which is underlined..then it will take you to another screen which lets you view the file for free.Download it to your phone or PC in PDF format.This works for many manuals .Look on eBay for the manual and once you find the part number go to mack e media and see if it can be downloaded for free.Cant beat free when starting out !😂 Red
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If you do end up removing the eup, install new bolts and o rings ..the bolts tend to break.. specially if never been changed.As mentioned above , pull the eup roller and check the protrusion of the roller guide pin... attached is an image of the roller pin almost flush with the eup housing wall,it made the roller spin and trashed the cam .. this is my on my cousin's truck , it had a miss and blink code for the eup. Hopefully yours is not that bad. Just my two cents RED
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While you have the plugs off, check for signs of coolant or oil seepage. The coolant or oil sensors go bad and allow the wiring lining to be used as a hose. The coolant especially will react with the electricity and create kind of a electrolysis and corrode your male connector pins. Had this happened to me once.
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Nice looking rig👍
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Sold
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Selling my quint axle dump truck.ami 370 hp , t310m transmission,4.42gear ration on 44k camelback.19.5 foot bed with 60 inch sides.870,000 miles and counting.truck has 3 steerable drop axles ,dump body vibrator.Works every day .located in Houston area .60k$ asking price,open to all offers.
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Well this happened to me once , I was working on the truck and removed the air cleaner canister.after putting it back, engine would stutter and stumble..ended up being the air canister cone mount that's supposed to seal against the hood and drag in cool air from outside..it must have moved in the process and truck was sucking in all the hot air from the engine bay..
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Try to get the steel Bell housing not the aluminum one...the torque from the e9 will probably end up ripping the insert rivets and the mount will fail.Had this happened to me with an e7.
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Yeah..it engages and disengages at will..Great design
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I'm not sure that mack rear ends had "full lockers".they did have interwheel locking differentials which I believe uses cams just like the interaxle power divider.But I think they are pretty rare and parts would be hard to source..
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Mine is governed at 70mph.. grossing 72k in a quint axle dump , I don't feel like I need to or want to go any faster.. Red
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These engines have a scavenge bump of the camshaft lobe..which makes them intake some exhaust gas with the fresh pressurized air..it makes the oil very dirty and easily full of sludge.I find that every time my engine is getting close to the oil change, the egts also Begin to climb.
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