R.E.D
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Everything posted by R.E.D
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At 1800 rpm you will be at 69mph
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What tires are on the truck?
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https://wellertruck.com/road-speed-calculator This is a road speed calculator.Input your info to find out speed.Your eaton trans if it is over drive has a overdrive of 0.73. I believe
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https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/50251-mack-ai460-ai427-ami-low-torque-low-horsepower-poor-fuel-mileage-granite-dead-dog-remediation/?do=findComment&comment=372944
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UPDATE:A month ago I removed the rocker arm assembly from the back head.Replaced Rocker bolts with new ones and torqued to spec.. adjusted the valves on 4,5,6 and the ticking went away...I'm baffled..I wanted to run the truck for at least a month before I reported back to you guys..old rocker bolts were tight.Rocker arm base was seemed ok and not wearing into the head..the actual rocker arms had no play on the shaft.I did compress the spring on the #4 pushrod by hand and it also seemed ok.what you guys think? Red
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A/C Control Panel Climate Control Plate Module-
R.E.D replied to dlappleton5's topic in Electrical, Electronics and Lighting
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A/C Control Panel Climate Control Plate Module-
R.E.D replied to dlappleton5's topic in Electrical, Electronics and Lighting
I just changed mine Sunday. same thing happened to me. -
Wouldn't hurt to check fuel pressure at the galley plug at the front of engine by Crank case filter.
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Buddy at work always seemed to looked down on me because I was driving a 2004 granite...he felt high and mighty driving his 2016 t880 cummins ,Allison.He couldn't understand why I was so in love with my mack, when his , as he put it "could take off faster than a car" ...year later his out of business..trucks always down and waiting of backorder sensors and what not.. everything trip to the dealership was in the thousands of dollars.Whats the point of buying a 200k$ truck when a 60,000$ can do the same work ,cheaper ,more reliable albeit somewhat slower.Not sure what we will do when they dont let us run these old trucks. Red
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That's also true.Yet what I think everyone is trying to convey is that they could've made a new comfortable truck that was also long lasting.I bet when the R model cabs came out in the 60s those guys riding B models were able to enjoy a nicer yet long lasting vehicle..R model cab was in production like 40 years , someone correct me if I'm wrong.
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Well, that's what trucks are now, junk meant to be traded in after 500k miles or 5 years..they are not going to build a truck that last 20 years because they would go broke.that applies to everything nowadays..must be why freight shakers dominate market share..they went with cheap and easily braekable.
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Incredible!Those guys at the dealership will try to sell you tire patches for train wheels..
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The cover on the side of the diff should have a magnet ,check for metal sticking to it .There's always a tiny amount from normal wear,but you shouldn't see chunks.i would drain fluid from front and rear diff.If you've only owned it for a year and never have changed the oil ,now would be a good time.
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I get such nostalgia watching this.this style cab is still relevant after 30 plus years .
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I like my t310m , very lo and lolo gears..and probably same length as your t2090 so you wouldn't need a drive shaft change. Red
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I'm glad you got your truck on the road .Things like this is why I never take any of our trucks to a dealership.They will run the little guy out of business.Glorified parts changers that they are ,without any concerns of their customers.I have 4 local mack dealerships and all are as useless as tits on a boar 🐗 hog.I would suggest you shop around for someone in your area who is proficient with macks and that is proud of his work and his word.Just my .02 cents. Red
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I rarely deal with Mackvo...since being around macks since I was knee high of grasshopper..I think I've only being there less thank 20 times.Always bad customer service,and price mark up of more than 100 percent of some stuff..and yes ,over the last 15 - 20 years it has gotten worse..I'm working on getting a parts book of ebay that way I can get part numbers and buy PAI. RED
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Thank you sir.
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If I had to guess, I think there is big disconnect in the automotive industry between the engineering and the practical side of things.These engineers pat themselves in the back by saving weight or making something more affordable,yet never think of the mechanic or owner that's going to be f***ed down the line...just saw the other day a video of a a/c condenser on a late model ford explorer that needed to whole front end removed.wtf?...I'm ranting lol. Red
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I haven't checked.i would like to have the new bolts on hand first.
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Anyone have the part number for the rocker arm bolts?
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I make a habit of putting an inline circuit breaker..saves the motor and switch..if it pops up I know I have a short or drawing to much amperage , as when trying to wind it in going down the road.usually people don't stop trying to wind until they see smoke..lol
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I Shone a light down the side of the pushrod hole and h ring "seems " to be in place .and lifter looks to be tracking right..idk..once I remove rockers arm and shaft ,I'll get a better look..what Steeler is saying makes perfect sense.
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Yea ,this was a roll off originaly.i tried to feel if rocker arm bushing to shaft clearance was off but everything seemed tight.
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I hear ya brother!
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