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Posts posted by h67st
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Could be a nice truck but quite a bit of rust for $20k asking price. Former fire truck located in Pemberton NJ.
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On 12/21/2022 at 5:59 AM, High Binder said:
"I'm gonna barbecue your a**!"
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On 12/19/2022 at 10:08 PM, 1961H67 said:
Thank You, I used most all the original copper I could, l replaced the plastic going to the spring brake valve ( we added the spring brakes in the 70s ) . I’m putting the E brake handle back for looks , I removed the drum. The Hand valve you see is not original, it had one on the column just under the floor, with a long rod ( something like my LT , but was on the column.) It started leaking around 1980 and I took this one off a parts F Model we had and extended the lines with rubber, I still have the control rod , the old valve is long gone. I have 2 LJ parts trucks and both are plumbed like I have this one . I bought a roll of copper so I could replace what I could.
I'm doing the same thing with my E brake handle, putting it back just for looks.
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On 12/14/2022 at 9:33 AM, other dog said:
I wonder if I could buy the hood off this GMC? Zina needs a new desk.
GMC....General Mack Corp.?
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On 12/16/2022 at 7:43 PM, 1961H67 said:
Got some more inside work done today, installed the hand valve and made some new copper lines ( I think it looks more “1951 “ then plastic ) . Also got my floor panels; bumper and grill guard back from blast shop, hopefully I can put some primer on them tomorrow.
Those copper lines look more original, and besides they look nicer than plastic.
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- Popular Post
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I have an R G Smith truck, but different R G Smith!
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When I was a kid, I helped work on my Dad's trucks. The memories I have are priceless, I think your helper will have the same feelings when he's an adult.
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- Popular Post
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I'd sure like to hear a Hall-Scott in person!
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On ebay, it needs a lot of work but looks solid. Too bad they rebuilt the engine and transmission, then let the thing sit.
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I got to looking at one of the caps; the large cone-looking thing on the left will let excess pressure out, while the small hole to the upper right has a ball and spring that will let air suck in when needed. I'm going to run without an additional vent for now and see if I run into any problems with it.
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I scraped and wire brushed mine, then sprayed mineral spirits all over it and steam cleaned it thoroughly. If you have access to a steam cleaner, they will really get an engine clean. I used Nason epoxy primer and Ful-thane single stage auto paint; I haven't driven the truck yet so who knows how long the paint will hold up. It would be better to paint it out of the chassis but if you don't need to pull the engine then do the next best thing.
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2 minutes ago, mechohaulic said:
THANK YOU for the encouragement some times i tend to doubt my memory. so being a guide; would that be a top or bottom picture?
My memory is fuzzy on that, but I believe that's from the bottom.
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On 11/23/2022 at 11:10 AM, High Binder said:
Brocky, A buddy of mine and I tried that earlier, but it didn't work. I'm not sure I had the brakes on the drive axle adjusted up enough. It would just scoot the Maxi's on the tag axle.
When I've had a stuck clutch before, I just drive the truck down the road as usual but with the clutch pushed down. Eventually the disc will pop loose. Especially if you goose the throttle here and there to put a little jolt on the driveline.
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41 minutes ago, mechohaulic said:
i just figured out how to enlarge the picture; now the confusion has set in. can see what seems to be another rectangular opening opposite end. on early single disc throw out assy didn't some have a 1/2hole in casting and the circled shiny shaft was a "guide " so the throw out bearing assy didn't spin rather slid back and forth. the picture is excellent ;;is it possible to get a picture of opposite end if this is a top picture??
You're right about the guide--my throwout bearing has one.
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I took my clutch to my local clutch shop, they had one in stock ('59 673 with TR720). I think it was right at $500 for disc, pressure plate, and throwout bearing.
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1 hour ago, 1961H67 said:
I just put a water pump on my C -600 a few months ago, I got it from Hi way & Heavy Parts , I think it was a couple hundred bucks, working great.
Do you have a part number for the one you bought?
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On 11/14/2022 at 1:02 PM, terry said:
I have seen aluminum ones on the 34.000 pound tandems, bet them could break easy! terry
My H67 has the 34k rears, it had aluminum caps on it. I read that Mack recalled all the aluminum caps in the 70's due to breakage, so I found some steel caps. That would be a real joyride if one of them broke.
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I couldn't log on yesterday. I tried Firefox and Chrome, same problem.
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Here's a question--I bought new fuel tanks and vented caps. Do I need separate vents for the tanks, or will the vented caps do the job?
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These guys are right, even a tight engine will crank longer and smoke more when it's cold.
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On 10/31/2022 at 5:02 PM, Craig N said:
Here’s a question for you guys. So, I see the driveshaft parking brake hub on this truck, but I don’t see the hand lever on the floor anywhere. How else would that be actuated? That’s not air operated at all is it? I didn’t look long at it and was kind of an after thought. I can’t wait to get it home to crawl all around it. The brake drums are frozen to the shoes so I was thinking about the brakes and realized I never saw the handle anywhere. First thing I do when I get it home is get the drums free.
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I had my 673 pump rebuilt at Purrformance Diesel in Fredericktown, they charged $1,100 which included several new parts. They are very particular, seemed like they wanted to make sure it was right.
R Model Roof Panel $750
in Parts for Sale
Posted
Says it's genuine Mack, located in Arkansas.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/285023338223?hash=item425cb6feef:g:yEIAAOSwOcRjYYUQ&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoF8RmYxZEXa7J20sCnif%2BPjnl%2FB0bDno4vwqdT3zNWLwuB2MjLsBVL00wVvgqBA5nJMtEiylwCfXUi5lsy6eVGOIx29ePV2C6ERAImwjWBopVFmfavW6C1gIzP%2Fbwsje9%2Fe%2Bg55fynJcoEnliVoKR%2FlyHi%2FZ7r2reL1tRlUjMoCHkf1Fbs9cXcNubsrE5BpExS%2FX%2BGLIwx8rfAtv8ff40O4%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6aVvPWpYQ