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h67st

Pedigreed Bulldog
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Posts posted by h67st

  1. On 12/19/2022 at 10:08 PM, 1961H67 said:

    Thank You, I used most all the original copper I could, l replaced the plastic going to the spring brake valve ( we added the spring brakes in the 70s ) . I’m putting the E brake handle back for looks , I removed the drum. The Hand valve you see is not original, it had one on the column just under the floor, with a long rod ( something like my LT , but was on the column.) It started leaking around 1980 and I took this one off a parts F Model we had and extended the lines with rubber, I still have the control rod , the old valve is long gone. I have 2 LJ parts trucks and both are plumbed like I have this one . I bought a roll of copper so I could replace what I could. 

    I'm doing the same thing with my E brake handle, putting it back just for looks.

  2. On 12/16/2022 at 7:43 PM, 1961H67 said:

    Got some more inside work done today, installed the hand valve and made some new copper lines ( I think it looks more “1951 “ then plastic ) . Also got my floor panels; bumper and grill guard back from blast shop, hopefully I can put some primer on them tomorrow.

     

    Those copper lines look more original, and besides they look nicer than plastic.

  3. I scraped and wire brushed mine, then sprayed mineral spirits all over it and steam cleaned it thoroughly. If you have access to a steam cleaner, they will really get an engine clean. I used Nason epoxy primer and Ful-thane single stage auto paint; I haven't driven the truck yet so who knows how long the paint will hold up. It would be better to paint it out of the chassis but if you don't need to pull the engine then do the next best thing.

    210113.3.JPG

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  4. On 11/23/2022 at 11:10 AM, High Binder said:

    Brocky, A buddy of mine and I tried that earlier, but it didn't work. I'm not sure I had the brakes on the drive axle adjusted up enough. It would just scoot the Maxi's on the tag axle.  

    When I've had a stuck clutch before, I just drive the truck down the road as usual but with the clutch pushed down. Eventually the disc will pop loose. Especially if you goose the throttle here and there to put a little jolt on the driveline.

  5. 41 minutes ago, mechohaulic said:

    i just figured out how to enlarge the picture; now the confusion has set in.  can see what seems to be another rectangular opening opposite end.  on early single disc throw out assy  didn't some have a 1/2hole in casting and the circled shiny shaft was a "guide " so the throw out bearing assy didn't spin  rather slid back and forth.  the picture is  excellent ;;is it possible to get a picture of opposite end if this is a top picture??

    You're right about the guide--my throwout bearing has one.

  6. On 11/14/2022 at 1:02 PM, terry said:

    I  have seen aluminum ones on the 34.000 pound tandems, bet them could break easy!   terry:MackLogo:

    My H67 has the 34k rears, it had aluminum caps on it. I read that Mack recalled all the aluminum caps in the 70's due to breakage, so I found some steel caps. That would be a real joyride if one of them broke.

    • Like 1
  7. On 10/31/2022 at 5:02 PM, Craig N said:

    Here’s a question for you guys. So, I see the driveshaft parking brake hub on this truck, but I don’t see the hand lever on the floor anywhere. How else would that be actuated?  That’s not air operated at all is it?  I didn’t look long at it and was kind of an after thought. I can’t wait to get it home to crawl all around it. The brake drums are frozen to the shoes so I was thinking about the brakes and realized I never saw the handle anywhere. First thing I do when I get it home is get the drums free. 

     

    Hand brake.jpg

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