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h67st
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Posts posted by h67st
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His handle was "Truck Shop".
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Looks good! I remember when we learned how to jig time a Cummins, the instructor said there are three rules to it. 1) Read the gauges right. 2) Make sure you read the gauges right. 3) Make ****ing sure you read the gauges right!
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Looks like yours has the Luberfiner 750c oil filter, Zoro has them for $19.00. This page has the measurements on it, you could measure your old element to match it up. My truck has the shorter Luberfiner 500c.
You'll also need a cover o-ring, part # 2788, or Baldwin # G309-B. Zoro doesn't seem to carry them.
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Other guys have looked for those, they're very hard to find. If you locate one, better grab it!
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Here are some of the codes used by guys on this site:
Kirker paint #812 or 812A
Omni(PPG) Acrylic Enamel #MAE 45735
Mack part #312sx19p2
NAPA 42198
Sherwin Williams B7-42198-00-Y
Axalta 44419 Frost Green Metallic (I used this on my truck, exact match for original interior color).
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Thanks for the kind words! Back when I was a mechanic we would crack a windshield now and then when installing, thankfully I didn't break any of these. I started out using straight dish soap but found that mixing it half and half with water makes it slipperier (is that even a word?).
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I bought new glass from Sanders ( https://www.sandersreproglass.com/ ), it was around $700 for all 7 pieces with shipping. I traced paper patterns for them to cut from since the openings for the windshields and rear window were hand-formed by the guy who did the body work. They look really good, I put the windshields and rear glass in over the weekend. I bought some reproduction rubber that's not formed to the shape of the openings so it didn't work perfectly on the tight radius corners. I had to cut the miters for the windshields myself and that didn't work too well 'cause when you try to cut rubber on a straight line it wants to flex around on you.
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2 hours ago, Vladislav said:
It's still a mistery for me how a building could be jacked up without deformations and cracks in the walls etc. Even that steel sub-frame has certain grade of flexibility. Or is that way suitable for some designs of homes only? I mean you can move a wooden frame building but that's impossible for bricks, right?
Anyway I'm under impression every time I see a pic with such a scenary. Have never seen that for real. Only one house somewhere in Virginia which was prepped for move (jacked up) but still in its place.
I'm sure they get some cracks in the walls, but if the crew knows what they are doing it can be done well. They can even move brick buildings, I watched them move a stone arch from a railroad station in Columbus Ohio.
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They moved a historic school building to Williamsburg VA, as you can see a tough old Mack supplied the motivation.
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The old United Pacific C555702 is kinda oval, but I don't know the measurements. It's only $4.56 plus shipping.
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Flex shaft is an attachment that chucks into your dremel, then you can put a wire wheel or whatever tip you want in it.
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Here's a stunning western Mack wearing Monfort colors.
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These guys have four power units on this...by the looks of the exhaust at the beginning of the video, they're really straining! Also, that's some beautiful scenery.
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The Maxidyne gold against that nice green looks great!
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I bought my mat from RubberCal (the place that mowerman showed), price was good and I like the look. Not necessarily original-looking but not bad either.
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Actually the 673 engines weigh 2,000 lbs. I can dig out my repair manual, that's where I saw this info.
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You could try A & T Rebuilders, they're supposed to rebuild Mack water pumps.
https://atrebuilders.com/product/rebuilt-mack-truck-water-pump-00811m/
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Today I put the defroster hoses on, found them at https://www.dennis-carpenter.com/ . One thing for sure...it was a lot easier to stand on my head under the dash of a truck when I was 25 years old. The hose is Thermoid brand, that's a name I haven't seen for a while.
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Is it $5k for the truck, or $5k for the rust?
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On 1/9/2023 at 7:03 AM, Keith S said:
My shop is in Gainesville, FL.
I didn't want to modify too much stuff before I knew how it was supposed to work. A lot of the big stuff was learning by doing. And finding parts - big parts. And the terminology - spider, S-cam, compressor governor, line dryer...
Had to buy bigger tools too - 3/4" sockets and impact wrench, 3ft breaker bar... Prior to this, my biggest breaker bar was 1.5 ft. And, "is that a typo - torque to 450ft-lbs"!!! Why does anything need to be that tight?!? 😆
Posts from this group helped a lot.
Tell me about it...the u-bolts on my camelback rears torque to 1400 ft. lbs.!
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His name is HarryS , if you search you'll find him. I don't know if he finished the electric conversion.
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My truck had a valve on the inlet side of the fuel pump that had a cable hooked to it, maybe your truck had the same thing. The valve could be an emergency shutoff in case the regular shutoff doesn't work.
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14 hours ago, Mean Green said:
I have found if you can get a paper title that’s for the same model I have seen repo door vin tags for sale
Mean Green, do you have photos of your avatar truck on here? Judging by that little picture, it's a nice looking truck.
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H Model Restoration
in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
Posted
I picked up 10 new Nutech 10.00-20 tires yesterday, got all of them mounted today. That was a full day's work! When I fixed tires back in the 80's I would do this much before lunch. I paid $3,500 total with tubes, flaps, tax and everything; they look like decent quality tires. Of course, we'll see how round they are when I get this thing on the road! I used my "safety cage"...a clip-on chuck with the tire sitting behind the shop in case it blows. My record is intact, I've never had a 2-piece rim blow apart on me.