h67st

1959 H67T with turbo 673 and duplex, former Ralph Smith truck. The cab is rusted beyond repair, but the chassis looks good. I have no idea what condition the engine is in. The truck appears to be complete. The title is signed but not notarized so I don’t know how easy it will be to get transferred to your name. Located in central Ohio, I have a tractor to help load but it would not push this truck up steep ramps. $800 or best offer.

I had this posted as an H67ST, but actually it's an H67T. I would say my memory ain't what it used to be, but it never was that good.

1961 H67T with 673 and duplex. The cab has a lot of rust-through but the cab frame is good and solid. This truck hasn’t been on the road for 20 years so it will need a complete restoration. The engine “ran when parked” in 2007. There were frame rail extensions welded to the back for a tag axle. The truck is complete, and I have a lot of extra parts that go with it. The guy who sold me the truck signed the back of the title but didn’t get it notarized so I don’t know how easy it will be to get transferred to your name. I also have a 1959 H67T with a bad cab but it has a 673T, 22” hubs, and the frame looks better on it so you could use the best parts from both trucks. Located in central Ohio, I have a tractor to help load but it would not push this truck up steep ramps. $1,500 firm.

On 9/13/2023 at 8:38 AM, Geoff Weeks said:

Book mark "Rome Truck Parts" for those Trico motors. If you need motors or a rebuild they are the only ones that seam to know much about the old Trico's. Because those use air to park (when the button is pushed in) and I don't think you said where it is leaking from, it could be the valve in the motor as well.

http://www.rometruckparts.com/

The guys at Rome are excellent, I got pivots, arms, blades, etc. from them. They have lots of NOS stuff at good prices.

SOLD

Looking good so far!

1. No, painting the hubs won't hurt sliding the rims on.

2. I took my brake shoes to a local brake shop and they relined them. If you have one in your area that would be easier than retrofitting. If your cams and slack adjusters are good, you'll probably want to replace the bushings. The brakes on these trucks are amazingly similar to the brakes on a new truck.

That's a fine looking Autocar, I like the dual headlights.

I have 3 NOS Dietz markers for flat roofs (L, H, F, etc.). 2 are red, one amber (glass lenses). The chrome has some very light corrosion, but a very nice shine. The bases are in new condition, comes with foam mounting gaskets. $80 plus shipping.

Edit: I used some Mother's chrome polish on them and the chrome looks great.

I have 5 KD517 markers and one Napa VP63 (identical to the 517s). 4 of them are painted silver, 2 are chrome. One has a glass lens, others are plastic. These are not in perfect shape, but very nice (chrome isn't too good). The foam mounting gaskets are a little sketchy. I also have a bunch of used parts you can have if you buy these. $80 plus shipping for all.

8 hours ago, D-Day said:

Watt's has the 40 and 50 gallon square tanks B mod. type and the brass caps

They want $1,500 for 40 gal., $1,550 for 50 gal. I'm sure there's also shipping charges.

Watts has shutterstats for $250.

https://wattstruckcenter.com/shop/b-model-parts/b-model-mack-engine-transmission-and-driveline/shutterstat

My shutterstat says 180° but my gauge says 190° when they open. At first they didn't open at all but I took apart the shutterstat and found corrosion inside, cleaned it up and lubed the pin and now it works well. There is no tstat ('58 model 673 NA).

2 hours ago, mechohaulic said:

and do you think your on that list alone !!!  list of stupid me is way tooo long to print.  give one =quit college to be a diesel mechanic !! 

It may be stupid to quit college and work on trucks, but if I had to do some college-type jobs day after day I'd have to hurt myself! At least when I was a mechanic I enjoyed what I was doing.

2 hours ago, Geoff Weeks said:

ASC out of Texas has parts for most of them. I've changed two trucks from electric to air, and it is as simple of un-bolting one form and bolting in the correct replacement. Why anyone would change from air to electric, is beyond me, but it is your truck. You would be going from 23 hp motor to 8-10 hp. 

Air systems can be self-lubing, and can outlast the truck.  The air side is simple, wet tank to inlet check, tank and air (solenoid)Relay.  I have mine hold enough air over 5 weeks of inoperation, to start, and the truck has 10 tires that can boost if the tank is low (but not empty).

To go to electric, you need to add the parts (starter button, relay cabling and enough batteries). your choice.

I like not having to buy batteries every few years...they ain't cheap. Plus if you run out of air and there's another truck nearby you just hook up the gladhand.

That Ahrens Fox is really cool! What is the chrome ball on top of the pump?

It says it's unavailable.

Seems like the 3 row would put out more heat vs. the 2 row.

On 8/11/2023 at 5:56 PM, 70mackMB said:

A good one from a great one! LOL!    .....Hippy

 

Roy Clark--he was a musical genius. My family used to watch Hee Haw every week, great show!

mechohaulic, that brings back memories! I worked at Cat and we would get LN9000 Fords that had a 3406 halfway under the cab (slightly tilted). It was a royal pain to swap cylinder packs in those.