h67st

1959 H67T with turbo 673 and duplex, former Ralph Smith truck. The cab is rusted beyond repair, but the chassis looks good. I have no idea what condition the engine is in. The truck appears to be complete. The title is signed but not notarized so I don’t know how easy it will be to get transferred to your name. Located in central Ohio, I have a tractor to help load but it would not push this truck up steep ramps. $800 or best offer. I had this posted as an H67ST, but actually it's an H67T. I would say my memory ain't what it used to be, but it never was that good.

1961 H67T with 673 and duplex. The cab has a lot of rust-through but the cab frame is good and solid. This truck hasn’t been on the road for 20 years so it will need a complete restoration. The engine “ran when parked” in 2007. There were frame rail extensions welded to the back for a tag axle. The truck is complete, and I have a lot of extra parts that go with it. The guy who sold me the truck signed the back of the title but didn’t get it notarized so I don’t know how easy it will be to get transferred to your name. I also have a 1959 H67T with a bad cab but it has a 673T, 22” hubs, and the frame looks better on it so you could use the best parts from both trucks. Located in central Ohio, I have a tractor to help load but it would not push this truck up steep ramps. $1,500 firm.

The guys at Rome are excellent, I got pivots, arms, blades, etc. from them. They have lots of NOS stuff at good prices.

SOLD

Looking good so far! 1. No, painting the hubs won't hurt sliding the rims on. 2. I took my brake shoes to a local brake shop and they relined them. If you have one in your area that would be easier than retrofitting. If your cams and slack adjusters are good, you'll probably want to replace the bushings. The brakes on these trucks are amazingly similar to the brakes on a new truck.

That's a fine looking Autocar, I like the dual headlights.

I have 3 NOS Dietz markers for flat roofs (L, H, F, etc.). 2 are red, one amber (glass lenses). The chrome has some very light corrosion, but a very nice shine. The bases are in new condition, comes with foam mounting gaskets. $80 plus shipping. Edit: I used some Mother's chrome polish on them and the chrome looks great.

I have 5 KD517 markers and one Napa VP63 (identical to the 517s). 4 of them are painted silver, 2 are chrome. One has a glass lens, others are plastic. These are not in perfect shape, but very nice (chrome isn't too good). The foam mounting gaskets are a little sketchy. I also have a bunch of used parts you can have if you buy these. $80 plus shipping for all.

They want $1,500 for 40 gal., $1,550 for 50 gal. I'm sure there's also shipping charges.

Watts has shutterstats for $250. https://wattstruckcenter.com/shop/b-model-parts/b-model-mack-engine-transmission-and-driveline/shutterstat

My shutterstat says 180° but my gauge says 190° when they open. At first they didn't open at all but I took apart the shutterstat and found corrosion inside, cleaned it up and lubed the pin and now it works well. There is no tstat ('58 model 673 NA).

It may be stupid to quit college and work on trucks, but if I had to do some college-type jobs day after day I'd have to hurt myself! At least when I was a mechanic I enjoyed what I was doing.

I like not having to buy batteries every few years...they ain't cheap. Plus if you run out of air and there's another truck nearby you just hook up the gladhand.

That Ahrens Fox is really cool! What is the chrome ball on top of the pump?

I've had the H out for three 5 mile runs, the temp gauge gets up to 190 and shutters still closed. I have a spare stat, took it apart and everything looks good inside. I did a test with it, here's the youtube video. I put it in my truck and now the shutters open at 190. The Capital City Chrome truck show in Pataskala is Saturday, if it's not raining I plan to take my truck there.

It says it's unavailable.

Seems like the 3 row would put out more heat vs. the 2 row.

Someone asked for interior photos, here you go. I had the cushions reupholstered a couple of weeks ago, the guy called this "bus vinyl". He did a nice job, $800 for all 4 cushions. I found some vintage green seat belts on Jegs.com for $25 each, I like the look. You can see there's no horn button, I went to install it and the wheel is a little egg shaped so I'll have to do some reaming to fit the button. I tried to get a mattress to fit the truck, but anything even close was $300 or more so I went on ebay and bought a piece of 6" thick upholstery foam for $90 and it fit snugly. I even got a green bed sheet for about $20 on ebay. You'll notice the driver's seat is a Bostrom West Coaster, it came out of my Brockway. I knew I'd better have an air ride seat for this truck, even with that it still rides like a bucking bronc.

I had the chassis that my cab and engine came off of, and the cab that came off my tandem chassis. I'm trying to get things sorted out and cleaned up, so I put the cab on the chassis. It goes a lot faster when you don't have to worry about scratching the paint! The cab structure is all rusted/broken so you can see the strap I put on the side of the cab to stiffen the steps. My wife wants to use it as yard art.

If the ball on the drag link isn't worn too much you can tighten it up. Remove the cotter pin, tighten the screw plug all the way down, then back off to the first cotter pin hole. Hopefully your coil spring behind the ball isn't broken.

Like this?

The dunnage in your pickup looks like it came from someone who used to pull a flatbed. 😉

But if the DD was tilted over, wouldn't it slobber oil? Oh, wait...