fjh

We would often remove the clutch from the fly wheel in RD applications due to the lack of space under the cab! Just sayin! It actually is a lot easier to re and re this way ! doing it this way! no wasting time aliening splines yada yada ! The hardest part installing is getting the pressure plate bolts started back in once you got two or so bolts started your laughing!

lots of variables ambient temps load ect Your in the zone ! Heating up ? Do you have a pyro? Three indicators of a boost leak quick High pyro low boost . Trailing smoke while under load @ rated RPM anywhere from 1200 - 1600 you apear to have a maxidyne it may pull lower than twelve how ever key here is pyro temp 1100- 1100 deg 1200 is pushing it! with the maxidyne you have a wide power band

lots of variables ambient temps load ect Your in the zone ! Heating up ? Do you have a pyro?

Yup I got a shop full of junk that MAY have a use some day😡 ! at some point something has to go! I have an old vintage lathe I no longer use I want rid of Can't sell or give it away! Has Dozens of accessory's! It may have to go to the scrap guys!

22-28 lots of variables ambiant temps load ect!

Not necessary !This was developed for real cool climate warmup believe I have wired a few of these closed !It by passed the after cooler for quicker warm up rather usless to the average guy!

RACK is the rod that connects the plunger segments Joe is Talking about they are calibrated together ! If one or more segment gets stiff it can lead to stalling or worse a run away ! That said chances are it could be a governor issue also how ever ! Sounds like you have solved part of your issue there try a dose of Standyne Or Howes fuel conditioner in the tank and see if it changes your Drivability issue!

Bud if it will start again make sure the tank is venting crack the fuel cap loose and go for a drive ! if the tank breather is plugged it will create a vacum and suck the fuel back to the tank!

Agree with this you need to start at the front and work back on this! Drain back valve First / check valves in the transfer pump ? Have you looked at the lines and filters yet? Judging by how quick the start issue happens it may be the fuel pump rack sticking at low RPM! Try some fuel conditioner Standyne or howes fuel condtioner See if it smartens up! Just something to try!

Good score! Real bargain!

you should check Amazon Free shipping when in stock! 😜 You may find that the crystal Ball assortment quantity's are low to there' s been huge shipping delay's I hear!🙃

Chances are you won't Find it ! As you said you WILL replace the lift pump! ain't worth taking the chance on your dime! You can't fix what you can't see! Magic wand time! 😁

Buddy My thought here is that transfer pump ! bench testing is not a reliable test in my mind ! As the engine is not tuning the shaft ,Static the shaft may not leak but turning it and any gear vibration may change your scenario it may leak ! Just sayin! Ya the fact that three machines in a week is suspicious !but at this point I can't connect any dots myself! Hope fully you fine some cracks in the heads but its a long shot! That said was the bore on number 6 injector pitted from rust and not sealing!?

Yup if that spring has any slack either side it will can surge! Unfortunately as you obviously know the breakin is important Once everything is glazed over its hard to correct! The best breakin is hard work! warm the engine to temp And give it all its got loaded! in moderation! bar non the best thing you can do for a new engine or rebuild ! Odiously some common sense is required here however...................

Joe if the engine is NOT CCR the Injector top Oring on the injector can let fuel into the heads Seen this happen as noted ! You may not see it unless you pull the caps! Also running that high of fuel pressure may have compromised The fuel pump Seal new or old! Just sayin!

Your lines are defiantly out of whack And the ambac pumps after warmed and years of use would surge as you described from Governor wear!The other thing that will make them surge is the throttle lever breakover spring being loose and worn!

Is the fuel pump plug still in tact if so try disconnecting it and putting it together a half dozen times and see if this helps your situation it may need re pining ! If it has been hard wired then all bets are off! obviously! If the issue goes away after you do this Either have the plug repinned if you Can find anyone that has the tools OR Hard wire the pump ( Due away with the plug!)

I think your on the right track ! I would check fuel filters then check the fuel pressure should have a minmum 60 80 psi under load

For Now!

E7 Gray Or Mp 7 -8 Red ??? If its a Gray engine you may have to replace the compressor Head! They get carboned up!

Yup you have posted this in the right spot for replies ! So most people here are former or current Employees or owners ! Most guys don't like dealing with deletes as there are so many variables Mac pro is one of several guys here still current and may be able to assist ! I Am Not and have never been A MP engine fan So my Advice is only Observation and hearsay ! So listen up to what he has to say! Others may chine in They may try to help How ever Deleted engines make it hard to work with ! I do have one suggestion and that would be unplug the EGR Valve and see if this changes your situation It will throw a code But if the power gets worse or better it may give you a direction to go!

Bro absolutely no way your making 47 boost! So try and observe if you are trailing grey black smoke while pulling hard ! If you are then start looking for boost leaks you cant keep blindly throwing parts to expensive! Common Failures are Aftercooler cracks The steel tube that goes behind the engine that feeds the air compressor has a hose at either end that can burst! There is a whole bunch of guys on this site that will lend a hand to try and help just keep checking back here! Check for a crack top rh charge air cooler and them hoses I talked about! Others may chime in with other fixes! You needed to have created your own post for this however! when you post here present All of the truck info And All of the stuff you have done so far! the model /year and hp rating really help nail things down We will try to help! Right now I'm confused as to what engine it is no EGR on trucks 2004 and earlier !So what year and model of truck is it! I am currently giving advice for a non EGR Engine! Makes A big difference! If you have an EGR engine it is possible to plug the boost blow off and acheive over 40 psi boost! It sounds like you got the fuel aside from some programing glitch or boost leaks your truck should pull!

Bro so what kind of boost is the truck developing! ? you should be developing 30 psi boost depending on horse power rating! Thinking boost leak here! Trailing smoke pyro running hot!?

OK some is there anyone who can check the codes on the trans? again ! Try a new boost sensor maybe!

trans make model ? Mack trans? If its a Mack trans disconnect the torque limit switch a the rear shift cyl!