fjh

Its a shame the extra dollars has to go to some type of insurance ! Instead of building a decent part that doesn't fail in the first place! Just criminal in my mind! Unfortunately EVERTHING has gone this way ! Waste full throw away mentality !

Well used 475 as my guide hopefully all will be good she dropped right on there!

anyone remember the temp to heat the cam gear to! to install on new cam! ? 475 comes to mind how ever un sure!

If its AMBAC its doable on the truck ! I Have done it! The governor can be removed with out disturbing segments and rebuilt if you can find a Good fuel shop to deal with It!

Yet a another brain dead Volvo move!😡

Yup don't go beating on the damper with a hammer surefire way to ruin it! just remove two opposing bolts install a puller and jack off a socket or sawed off piece of bolt that will fit inside the hole! you may have to apply a little heat around the hub area! Ive seen these real tight and sort of loose and anywhere in between! joes heading you in the right direction!

Yup do the simple stuff first rad cap also!

Anything is possible if you have the the where with all and the money depending on the hp you plan on using! The Allison likley won.t work well behind a V8 How ever a E6 E7 It will do fine! your best to get a donor truck for parts the biggest draw back is the trans cooling lots of extra plumbing!

Last Time I trust you buddy! 😅

fuel pump numbers will reveal if its maxidyne or thermal!

I agree I hate doing these in frame too easy to drop a lifter easy to make a mistake ! If you accidently drop or smack one with a cam lobe is it any good?? The ceramic seemed to solve the etching issue how ever who really knows what the real problem was with the steel they worked well in some engines and not others! know one ever clarified why they were failing!

I have a Makitata 12 amp 12 inch ! Had for years We had the very same machine at work and worked its ass off stood the test of time so I bought one for my own use! Still going strong That said stuff aint built like it used to be! so all bets are off !

Im very concerned here that you may have a restriction in the return line! Once you establish where the fuel is coming from as joe has explained there And IF its coming from the fuel pump Again I You need to be checking the return line for a restriction replace the drain back valve and check the fuel pressure to be sure its not going to much over 80 psi! also make sure the return line is clear just my opinion! If the pump has failed there may be a reason ! Just sayin!

I will suggest this once again Before you throwing a big bag of money at this! go to a parts store get some standyne fuel conditioner and Overdose the fuel tanks with it ! I" ve seen this stuff perk up pumps before its worth a try before pulling the the pump in my mind! As Glen is saying here if you have the cover off Providing this is an AMBAC Pump you will be able to see if the rack is sticking by simply looking pulling the stop back if the rack does not return to idle after the stop is pulled and released there is definitely a issue in the governor or rack area! the The standyne lubricity formula MAY Help free things Up ! Just sayin! Worth a try!

Well may be contact the PAI guys and ask! They are quite knowledgeable dudes and from my experience here in Canada Good at answering questions! Can't hurt to ask!

is the check engine light coming on?

sorry can't answer the question either Joe! kind of weird the reman center center didn't pick up on that ! all thou someone may have been into it after the fact! That said is the engine equipped with engine brake! This could have made the difference? just sayin!

Or you can look it most often happens on the top RH of the cooler due to hot incoming air! You should also be trailing smoke under load!!

We would often remove the clutch from the fly wheel in RD applications due to the lack of space under the cab! Just sayin! It actually is a lot easier to re and re this way ! doing it this way! no wasting time aliening splines yada yada ! The hardest part installing is getting the pressure plate bolts started back in once you got two or so bolts started your laughing!

lots of variables ambient temps load ect Your in the zone ! Heating up ? Do you have a pyro? Three indicators of a boost leak quick High pyro low boost . Trailing smoke while under load @ rated RPM anywhere from 1200 - 1600 you apear to have a maxidyne it may pull lower than twelve how ever key here is pyro temp 1100- 1100 deg 1200 is pushing it! with the maxidyne you have a wide power band

lots of variables ambient temps load ect Your in the zone ! Heating up ? Do you have a pyro?

Yup I got a shop full of junk that MAY have a use some day😡 ! at some point something has to go! I have an old vintage lathe I no longer use I want rid of Can't sell or give it away! Has Dozens of accessory's! It may have to go to the scrap guys!

22-28 lots of variables ambiant temps load ect!

Not necessary !This was developed for real cool climate warmup believe I have wired a few of these closed !It by passed the after cooler for quicker warm up rather usless to the average guy!

RACK is the rod that connects the plunger segments Joe is Talking about they are calibrated together ! If one or more segment gets stiff it can lead to stalling or worse a run away ! That said chances are it could be a governor issue also how ever ! Sounds like you have solved part of your issue there try a dose of Standyne Or Howes fuel conditioner in the tank and see if it changes your Drivability issue!