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Yup I 'm game I would try it If I had nothing else!😬

I assumed by the look of the top there it was a filter you made the tool from! Guess I am a dumbass 🙃! Its round it fits the the hose I would go there if I needed to make a quick tool for pressure testing! And Volvo uses some perrty asshole sizes when it comes to most things! What ever fits!

Congrats on getting the injectors out ! No need to replace the studs unless they are pitted to hell! Hopefully all goes well from here on ! the only thing now is if the studs are rusted or carboned to the head This can ad to the frustration of working with old iron!

That can strip the boss at the top combine that with what you doing!

Yup Thats a good base for a restore pretty unit! Good bones as they would say in the building trade!

Don't know if that fitting will stay in there at 40 psi how ever very innovative on your part Onyx ! which filter did you use?

HA HA ! I got a spare one to in the cupboard above the washer that I didn't use due to a similar scenario ! So funny! found a leak else where!

Don't forget the head bolts are Proper STUDS and nuts Coarse on the bottom fine on the top! pulling the heads is not always a cake walk either You may find your self struggling here too don't be surprised !Joe , Glenn Myself and others will likely be able to walk you thru the scenarios!

If you pull them apart they have to be reset

its amazing what a little vibration will do! vibration and pry at the same time! pulling them apart is an absolute last resort

I’m not far behind you Glenn! its way worse to do on a 285 the aftercooler adds some extra excitement to the job ! You’ll get them ! Do you have an air hammer? That would get it moving!

Thanx for posting your fix!

Certain Tire bars work well for this as well Glenn has the ticket on this! mentioned tapping them back and forth to get them to turn first its only a little but there is a enough movement on the studs there to get them broke free!

Yup been like that for years! moved into a fifth wheel while building my last house 15 years ago ! Did the laundry mat thing twice and decided I would buy a used Kenmore washer and drier and put it in my shop that I had already built on the property! The washer and dryer 250 for the set payed for them selves over 3 washes! To top it off they lasted another 6 years after moving in to the new house! I'd be willing to bet that the people that sold us the machines (She wanted new stuff) are on their third NEW washer and drier since they sold us their stuff! But even buying new would out weigh going to the laundromat even if you had to replace every two years! We replaced these with another used set a while back the washer is now acting up as the progression to newer and newer stuff looms closer! Soon I will be stuck buying a new washer with no option to buy the good old stuff! Until I cant find the old stuff I will continue to buy the used ! Don't care how fancy the new shit looks they Don't last ! Just like The Mack/Volvo Trash trucks of today! So much for the environment!

In my opinion Do a proper lab oil test! Correct me if I am wrong however this problem existed prior to the rebuild and directly after ! that in my mind kind of rules out fuel dilution! Worth a look thou leave no stone unturned cheap and easy! The gear slipping would follow along un detected! That said the oil sample should also pick up on some metal in the oil from a slip! No disrespect intended In my comment ! The halo test is fine if you strongly suspect dilution or coolant ! cardboard will pu on coolant these however won't pu on metal! hence the lab test comment! This here issue if it exists is one of those if it isn't broke don't fixit things the E6- E7 motor had no issues with the accessory shaft till they moved the PS pump to the front It all starts there!😬 this all started when they started morphing the E6-4V to the E7 !

The EGR Valve is operated by oil pressure! This is lily why you have blu smoke! My thought here after reading this whole thread over a couple of times! (One) Take the pump down Make dam sure the pump is correct is the high volume pump! (Two ) I have seen the accessory drive shafts break I don't remember if its is welded to the shaft or not but the accessory shaft on some of the older stuff was bolted Is it possible that the pump drive is slipping on the accessory shaft?? that question is for Joey as I don't remember my self! If you don't resolve this by normal means I suggest you need to shim that relief valve Because the oil pressure needs to be higher just to run correctly ! Double check the pump Numbers Mackpro Got the where with all, to do this I believe ! You may want to check the accessory drive Bolt for tightness its behind the PS pump on the front 300 Ft pounds I believe ! Everything we choose to do from here on is A shot in the dark Sounds to me you have checked and double checked all the normal stuff! Just my opinion!

What was the reading on the manual gauge?Please?

Yup another company swallowed by the Vilvo Group! Autocar / gmc / White /Mack ! busy boys !

Ya those are clumsy looking but effective !

Yup you got it! Those numbers were just examples! I don't have the exact specs for your engine just used those as examples! model years seemed to dictate timing usually 19 to 24 area! Probably emissions related!

Nope install then set! if you’re at say 21 park the pointer at 24 23 and set with the a/b light!

https://40ton.net/kierowca-wynalazca-sam-zaprojektowal-ciezarowke-paymaster-mogl-byc-rewolucja/ Interesting read on a guy way ahead of his time!

I like it too ! ANY filter prior to that goofy Volvo setup is a bonus! This is one of the things we need to add to our growing list of Betterments for the V engine! Forgot to add the electric Primer Pump to the list too! Should be mandatory on all fuel systems these days! I'm feeling feisty this morning want shit to get fixed!😂

CUPS ! It will only get worse! Mackpro nailed it from the get go in my mind! When you have this job done have them check the engine brake slaves as well your already in there!