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Onyx! You are Totally correct! (Hate to admit it 🙂) Crying over spilt milk! Got to get on with some sort of fix here if We can ! So again! from my side walk super intendant point of view! I have heard this compliant before! I remember the guys checking for boost leaks ,exhaust leaks , another situation is the the 7th injector fouled (they replaced that )and the Turbo starting to stick if I remember correctly also the diff sensor clogging opening the egr valve to much to compensate for the clog! in turn polluting the cat with more carbon hence a necessary P-R in very shot order! point is something up stream is likely causing the issue just got to find it! Look for any broken intake bolts just below the front where the EGR comes in , a crack in the intake manifold in that same area .just look for stuff you can find yoursellf! I'll refrain from mentioning all the pricey shit that could happen here and focus on the semi cheap and easy stuff! I 'm sure Onyx and pro will set me straight here but you got to try stuff and look for stuff your self at times ! Another place to look for leaks is the flex from the turbo to the cat they crack a fare bit! The more expensive stuff like engine brake slaves protruding causing an in complete burn , injectors going bad Creating soot , turbo sticking . Long list ! Need to start ruling out stuff!

Yup it’s a constant battle! This Volvo outfit is organized like a shit fight no foresight ! The parts system sucks you got to be a guru to run it! You need a degree if want to run it! And still can’t find stuff. There was a reason for prefixes in the part system the Mack system was way superior to the current Volvo rubish ! Even us dumb mechanics could find parts with the old system!

Have you changed you air drier cartridge lately? If not do so! Wet air can take out the hi module! This is just a comment not a fix for your issue! It all could come down to where you were driving lately long drives heavy loads keep the regens away! As stated!

My Davey brown had a clutch switch!

Yup 👍 good news thanks for posting the fix!

Don't rule out the starter as Glenn mentioned!

Rule of thumb ! If the engine starts up clean running on all 6, suspect electrical. if it stumbles to a start suspect air in fuel! Could even be something as simple as an ignition switch !

They will be after market! How ever most of the mack sensor parts are made in Mexico ! Pick your straw!

They all do even stock turbo? The lengths are different!

I don’t know where you live how ever if you got a local fuel shop you might want to check with them! Also mak sure your air filter is clean this has caused issues in the past specially with a high output turbo and fueled up engines! In the land of oz the v8 was or could produce 650-700 hp we installed an ozy turbo on several trucks here and as your observation 35-40 psi boost was not uncommon! Just tweaked the fuel to the need! Note the drain tube was a little different so beware!

Could be a Differential issue

With the engine running I would suspect lots of bloby at the draft tube in the low compression dept! Im sticking with my tank vent or or his suction line theory for now Joey ! Just running with his symptom's at the moment! The lost of prime makes the most sense at this point! In the first statment only in the morning next statement after ten minutes of shut off! Rule of thumb ! If the engine starts up clean running on all 6, suspect electrical. if it stumbles to a start suspect air!

Yup cheers to all Bros !!

So keep us posted on this interesting issue! If the issue persists after the suction Lines are replace check the tank vent!your description really describes the scenario to a tea! Vacuum created in the tank sucking the fuel back when shut off!

Yup

once again check the grounds on the block under the starter and the starter connections! Rule out the cheap and easy first! you have all ready parts cannoned it by the sounds of it! Just saying! also check your tank vent!

What is your battery voltage? if you got less than ten volts on the crank it won't let the engine have fuel! also check the grounds on the block and the starter connections!

I would use the Mack spec pump the inc pump shows banjo fittings!

Think you should stick with the brand specific one ! The ihc one has banjo fitting bosses!

Yup that’s a crap shoot! Performance six pack ! There’s why you don’t use your own parts !

True! pick your poison !

Good for removing oil after an oil cooler failure! Don't know about rust thou!you have to flush the system several times with water to purge the soap out!

IF THEN DON"T have to do it twice! Do they have Experience? That be my worry! Just sayin

I seen how pampered these need to be assembled ! I also seen guys use the injectors over and fail 2 months later! Its hit and miss if you don't replace everything from what I seen! Onyx I Think For the most part the MP engines bottom end are a solid in design! The top Not so much! The Fragile and temperamental head and fuel system design spoils the pudding for me! If Joe were to take on doing these cups at his shop he wouldn't sleep at night wondering WHEN they will be back ! sure there's lots of work out there in this department however he has no dealer or boss to hide behind when things go sour! And sour is Easy to achieve with this set up! I have not tried this or heard of any one trying of re torqueing these injectors after a weeks running or so how ever I think it may aid in prolonging how long they would last! That said a bunch more messing around! Joey got a good gig there just working on a sure fire gray engine that you can for the most part count on not to come back on you! untill The Big V opens there Eyes and Redesign that fuel system nothing going to convince me of anything different! Guess it comes down to my insecurity and not had the opportunity to really bond with the product in some respects! I bonded to the gray stuff knew its weaknesses and strengths Very for giving to repair BlaBla Bla! As always my opinion!

Really ! not up to the challenge buddy ! ? Or just smart! I choose the latter!!😇