fjh

I will tell ya one thing the Compressors are not the problem!Does the blowing oil happen under load? if so four places to look Turbo for sure good place to look after all you have done the engine over! Having said that is it making oil? leaking injectors or bad transfer pump can cause fuel contamination flooded engine case!!!! over full ?. bad rings , valve guides! Compressor at the bottom of the list. Keep us posted on what ya find!

The econovance solnoid is likly fubared ,take the econovance block off and remove the allen head plugs from the sides and inspect for little screens inside if there are screens behind the plugs remove them and reassemble and retry runing the engine. remember to buy a new gasket before disassembly.If this dosent fix it the sonoid is likly had it!you wil have to buy a new one.

Don did you nail this down.Please post your fix so others can benifit.

Mack Diffs ???? Try locking the power divider out!

It sounds electrical to me if it just up and quit with out sputtering!If it sputtered to a stop you will likly be looking at a transfer pump. mounted on the side off the fuel pump . remove the round plug going to the fuel pump and look at the the plug itmay need new pins does any of the holes look to be brown from geting warm.Also there is a ground faultbreaker on the fire wall black rectangular box 2x three in size jump across that make sure it hasent failed.

Why was the drive shaft out???If it was that is a possiblity!If your having a shutter at aprox 40 mph 6 and seventh check the ride height!

Don is there a valve on the front of the fuel pump with a wire going to it?if so remove the guts of that valve and reasemble!? question two do any of the accesorys work heater fan ect when the key is turned on does the check engine light come on then go out! if not you have a bad acssory relay in the dash under the cup holder 4 screws and your on top of it.If you don't her a clunk in the dash when the key is turned on its likly the relay even if you do it can still be the relay check it has power coming out when the key is on ,the heater fan should run if its ok. Check this stuff and get back. Fred

Have your ride height checked possible drive line angle problem!Clutch replaced? flywheel ground? The vib you have is likly unrelated Unrelated to the engine in my opinion But you never know!

idle stop yes. you were told it had a miss? Do you hear a miss?

If you got a 460 it should be putting out 35 psi or so boost. check for exhast leaks at #no 4 exhast port comon is a broken stud there.Check for boost leaks clamps hoses and after cooler can be suspect.There are lots of difrent things that will cause low boost on these there is a boost by pass tube with a check valve that blows off at 20 psi or better if that is fubar it will cause boost to build slow as well!The valve is mounted at the top where the air enters the engine.Air cleamer is clean? Check this post out for the fan thing may or may not be related http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?showtopic=9183 the guy that posted that used to work for mack and is a wizard with the electrics I wish he would hang here more often but I think hes had his fill of Volvo politics!

has anyone checked the engine for boost leaks!These engines are dirty but a steady stream of black is not normal.Does it have the latest programing?What has been checked if anything?

Is the engine an eteck e7 six small fuel pumps or a standard e7 one large fuel pump ?Electric or non electric? If you have the large electric fuel pump look for any worn wires leading to the tdc marker located at the side rear of the pump two wire plug! Next same pump there should be a big round plug 8 wires or so unlock the the lock ring 1/8 turn backwards and unplug and replug that plug 1/2 a dozen times and relock it and try it for several days c if the problem goes away if it does take it to a dealer and have them re pin both sides of that plug! good luck with it keep us informed we still may be able to help. Fred

Highly unlikly ! As HK said More a (Prevent) maintanance program problem.

Sounds like econovance is not working remove and check the line from the block to the econovance better still replace it!the econovance sol is likly fubar you may need to replace it!To determine if its roasted ground one side of the eonovance wire and put power to the the other if the engine cleans up and sounds diffent then its working there may be some other glitch but I doubt it!.The econovance soliniod is around 500 dollars to buy! Be aware there are two difrent gaskets be sure and take the old one with you to gat the corect one.There is one other thing you can try !There are /where some small screens in some of the ports on the econovance sol block ,remove the 4 bolts holding the sol block on and remover all the allen plugs around the out side of the block and look in the hole check to see that the screens have been removed if they havent been do so and reinstall it to try! this is a long shot at best cause the engine was running fine one day then not the next then healed it self for a time then back to bad again!

Let us no what ya find! If yer still having greif post and we'll see if we can help.

Bro The econovance will make the truck stumble and smoke blu on startup!If the engine starts and stumbles till the oil preasure comes up then starts to change sound and clean up the econovance is working as it should.I suspect you either have a loose jake sol or somthing!Bad injectors is not out of the question either. If the smoke is truely black .you may have a flapper in a hose blocking air to the engine, turbo may be not turning restricting flo or somthing along those lines.The jake stuck on produces grey blu smoke same as the timing advance!you either have an over fueling condition or and air starvation problem with black smoke.

Agree Weld the crack bolt the insert!If you are not a welder your best off doing it this way! If not done correctly just welding will break again. Also smooth the flanges as best you can that is where the crack will likly start again!

The range shift is locked in to one side or the other if you pull the lever into nutrel then lift the lever the everything is in free wheel the interlock helps prevent this!Nothin in there thats going to fly very far!

If you have a newer MR you may have the volvo front axle sealed means sealed and you wait for it to fail.not great but thats the way it is!

If you lift up on the range lever in gear and then take it out of gear you should hear it expell air then hear the range shift!If you hear rhe air expell and no range clunk its likly not the range valve more likly orings in the range cyl in the lid.They tend to get oil in them and have a little stickyness till the oil warms and thins out.

If I was in your shoes I'd be looking for a single axle dump on air ! Likly a Binder DT466 cheap and dependable .Or a 350 mack single axle ch with a dump body!either would be cheap on fuel and low maintance.

the trans gets system preasure.If the problem gets worse worry about it then once in the morning is not going to be much of a problem could be sticky orings.

Your method is correct!However begining of the end for the synro may be premature there is a good posibility that the synco is on its way out time will tell that!I would however check the yoke bolt on the rear of the trans to see if it is tight that can cause the same intermitant patern.

Bad flasher!

If you had the tab centered in the window @ 8 you should be ok to go if it seems alright probably is! 12 is normal idle timing Its running close to where it should for timing electricly the static is what will cause greif it needs to know where to start from. Or if that tone wheel has slipped it will ping and rattle or it will smoke retarded. it sounds like your ok ifits not pingng or smoking.If this all changes with out notice you will have to have the pump checked!otherwise leave it!