fjh

Yup go easy pedal don't buy reman , Dont buy solo end of story!

to far to back up when things go fubar!

I had put a used crank and balancer

PUT A NEW BALANCER on it ! you aleady have a used one the balancer is likly the issue! the blocks rarely have issues unless the engine has been cranked up! then they tend to crack near the starter and you will find the main bolts in the pan!

I have a 1998 ch612. Engine shuts down when at full operating temp. Blink code 5-4. Prior to this Mack dealer installed rebuilt injector pump and injectors. This proplem only occurs at full temp 180 degrees or so. Gray connector seems good and tight. It takes my truck a long time to warm up. I also replaced throttle position sensor.(thottle pedal) Is there another relay, if so where? Thanks

Hey Bro Chuck some cool water on the back of the fuel pump If the engine fires back up you will need to r and r the fuel pump and have it looked at at a reputable pump shop as the rack actuator is fubar!

Also check the plug behind the washer bottle on the rh fire wall 3/16 socket takes it part see if ya got any green conections there! Seen that do some werid stuff before!

If The fault light is not coming on when it shuts down its not somthing the puter knows or cares about! I have seen the the ECU fail when the cab temps get too warm!

But re start was not possible till cool down! Check all the grounds and the plug to the fuel pump If you have any pins on the fuel pump plug the look to have been warm have the pins changed at the dealer !

Drain the coolant and remove and check the screen insid the rubber tube bottom of the oil cooler if its pluged replace it!

Heres one ya want to buy it ? http://www.truckandtrailer.ca/inventorylist.cfm?pageaction=viewitemdetails&intProductID=68983

We bin bitchen for a couple of years to get our sales guys to get on it and they finally did Now all we got to do is sell it! I beleive its a pricing issue and the logging industry isn't what it was! Althou with the price of fuel on the rise these new fuel efficant units may becomeworth the money!

Usually you can see if there is fuel coming up the injector it will be sitting on top or comong out the injection line threads..the only place I can think of that this can happen excluding a crack in the block some where is the injector sleaves in the head! With such an odd problem that your having I would be inclinded to try some of stop leak products NOT BARRS but say dyke or Alumaseal the Barrs tends to plugg everything radd heatercore ect the other products are less agressive I have good luck with Alumiseal.When Desperate!

Do you have a fuel heater on your truck?

Some menebrs are missing and one is fjh. Any one hear from him recent? I miss his and some mores tech info.

Glenn I,m Still kickin around! The fourm is well served by the guys that attend here!

I have been busy with Other stuff thanks for the honorable mention thou. if ya need anything just pm I do checkin from time to time!

I'll chime in here. I just joined this forum and I feel like I'm posting all over the place.. as if anyone cares what I have to say...

I like the mDrive, also known as Volvo iShift. The only difference that I am aware of is that Volvo uses a shift knob mounted next to the driver's seat and Mack has a dashboard mounted shift pad. They pull hard. They do get good fuel economy. A week or so ago I happened to check the fuel trip history on a Volvo VN with an iShift and 475HP D13 (which is a green MP8) and according to the ECM it was getting 8.1mpg. It's kinda cool to sit there and do nothing except hold the throttle on the floor and let it do it's thing. I have only driven one mDrive so far but with a Volvo you can you can hold down the engine brake switch and slow to a crawl from 65mph just hitting that one switch. It works smooth. I think it is the smoothest operating automated truck transmission ever. It's years and years ahead of any Eaton Autoshift that I know of. Maybe Eaton has something in the works, I don't know. They better if they intend to compete with Volvo. The iShift has been in the Volvos for several years now and I do not remember seeing a major iShift failure come through our shop. The only times I can think of an iShift with a problem in our shop were just air leaks from around where the ECU mounts on top of the case and we've replaced a couple iShift ECUs. The only campaigns I can remember on it were just software updates. It's pretty cool to see inside because you look down inside the case and there's not much there. It's a single counter shaft design.

I still would not have one if I was an owner operator.

This should be an interesting read if you are interested in the mDrive. Someone please let me know if this file doesn't work. It was too big to upload so I had to compress it.

mDrive - Design and Function

PV776-88979192.zip

I beleive there is some politics going on with allison and there is no available Mp10 M drive in vocational apps yet So if ya want an M drive in a dump app you can't have it If you want it in a tractor you can!That is straight from the rummor mill

I did a search, but did not help with my question. I am installing a Jacobs 680B on my 1992 4-valve E7. Following the directions, I set the exhaust yokes so there is .010" clearance. With engine at #1 TDC, I installed the Jakes and set jake at .080" . I then did the exhaust at .024" and intake at .016". I followed the 1-5-3-6-2-4 firing order with the flywheel on the valve setting markes. I was doing some double-checking and notice things are fine when the proper cylinder is on the valve setting mark, but 2 or 3 other valves will be extremely loose. If I run them the the proper cylinder mark on the flywheel, the settings will be correct. It appears the pushrods are not all the way down, when I am adjusting the jake and valves. What am I doing wrong? Thanks.

Your seting it fine if you are setting on the v/s marks ! the loosness on the other valves is normal ! It has to do with the cam being ground for the dynatard application this cam is used irreguardless if a jake brake is installed .I don't like your method of yoke set!I hold the yoke straight down tight, turn the yoke screw till it contacts then turn the screw 1 flat of the nut and spike it tight! just another way of doing it I guess! If the book says ten thou then it must be correct.

We are not having any sensor issues that I have heard the Mp engines are doin just fine !The EGR SCR seem to be thought out and working well as a team ! Im at a point I can say that I beleive Volvo Done good for Mack And I was A ney sayer when they took over!

the only real issue is the 7th injector it apears to have to be serviced every once and awhile and the flex pipe that is between the injecter and the Cat can crack the system can not tolorate leaks, NO LEAKS PERIOD!

Yup keep it simple we all know there is enough rubish on these trucks as it is.air assist is complicating the simple.

hasler hit the nail on the head with his coments

A derate will throw a code if the check engine light is coming on there should be a logged code.

If not its likely something the puter dosent know about that but thinks is normal like the puff limit switch!

Having said that the throttle pedals have been known to glitch once and awhile with out throwing a code.

And also the fuel pump pins at the plug can give ya 50 fits at times ,try unplugging the big fuel pump plug and put it back together

1/2 a dozen times and see if this changes the operation.The key off and back to normal thing makes it sound like a derate.

Bro what horse power is the engine ? The boost your making is what 400 hp engine would make ,What trany is in the truck ?What boost was it making before you started having problems. 34- 38 being average for a 460 480 engine

I would suspect the fan hub by what your discribing

Possibly at the injector tubes! Yuo may have to pull the injectors to pressure test!

The torque limit wires would have to short together to cause this problem unpluged the unit becomes in effective.

There is a wire that goes to the torque limit swithch on an 18 speed trans it may be shorted it will cause the engine to have half the boost of normal.

it is usually routed down and around the same area as the speed sensor pu wire.U claim to have a 12 sp and not used but even so the wire will still be there check for it.

OK That works !I have one more reqest if possible can you put a forum change box with a drop down at the bottom of the pages haveing to go back to the top to switch forums has always been a pain!

Barry my only real bitch is that the sign in takes you to an new account screen I already have an account

Could you put a seperate log in button for us guys that already have accounts?

I also liked to be able to choose my own skin! Stanless is OK but in explorer the white on gray is hard to read!

In firefox its fine!

I am used to working on Detroit 60's and Mercedez's that are in Freightliners. I have never worked on a Mack. So,I unbolted the rocker assembly not realizing that it didnt need to come off. I did not mess with any of the valve adjustments. Can i just retorque the six bolts and everything be ok or do I have to reset the valve adj.Does anyone know the proper torque specs. for thr rocker assembly on the E7 400 1993. After that mistake everything else went smooth. I removed the fuel lines from the side of the head,removed the injector cover, screwed a valve cover bolt into each injector and wiggled them out. If you could help me I would greatly appreciate it.

45- 55 fp torque down chris cross in smaller increments can't hurt to set the valves on an engine that old ! 16 intake 24 exhast!

55 pounds on the injector screw Snug the screw then loosen a bit, then tighten the injection line and then retorque the screw and properly tighten the injection line.This helps aline or seat the line to the injector to prevent leaks.

Good luck

Iam replacing all 6 injectors on my mack E7 400. Its a 1993 model. The problem is that I don't known the correct way to run the rack when I am finnished. Could anyone help steer me in the right direction?

There is a small cover center bottom of the fly housing 6 bolt or 2 bolt cover depending on year remove it turn the engine in running rotation and alin the V/S Marks to the center of the peep hole and set the valves in firing order 153624. v/s 1&6 - V/s 5&2 - V/s3-4 Valves rocking on 6 set 1 valves rocking on 2 set 5 and so on!