fjh

It should be more responcive and have more black smoke on take off and gear chabges now if all is ok other wise.If this cures the problem then replace the reversing relay with proper # valve.

To Make sure were talkin apples to apples!The hose from the puff limit to the fuel pump should be capped off !

as Glenn pointed out.

Hi guys i am a volvo master tech ive been at the same dealer in Northeast,PA for 11 years i know there is other posts for volvo and mack related topics but i decided to start my own and try to clear the air about some things at the most throw a few very good opinions out there i have seen guys on here say volvo engines are junk they are garbage.....not true besides the new 13 liter dpf engines this is not true the actual meat and potatoes of volvo engines are damn near bulletproof now the emissions related items and electronic components are giving the volvo engines a bad name the only engine that you mack guys out there wont see to much of and will love cuz they are so easy to work on is the 16 liter which i believe will be called the mp-10 (its the big horse dpf engine)now the 13 liter is also a great engine however they r droppin like flies mainly due to injector cup failures,turbos,engine wiring harnesses now i have also seen some people say they have totally dropped any mack ideas and basically said screw mack...on the volvo side of things this is not true they r coming out with stainless steel cups which was a mack design,they are also goin to be using mack designed wiring harnesses which seem to hold up alot better,also yes the new mack engines are dressed up volvo engines do not let anyone fool you or tell u otherwise,now as to working on these engines they are very very very easy to work on they are basically idiot proof however this will take awhile until you mack guys get to know them very good and also when diagnosin them throw all of your logic and basic skills out the window there is so many design flaws and alot of engineering flaws when it comes to these engines,now alot of people have said that they are not reliable and are junk....lol this is 100 percent true this merger i feel will build volvos reputation due to the fact of volvo using alot of macks great engineering ideas for there products and its going to kill the amazing reputation that mack has built there bottom line on just because of one big thing and i hate to say it and everyone can call me a liar but its true you are gonna see alot of new design items being put on mack engines before you see them on volvo engines because mack engines are going to be the test whores,i just came back from a new products school and wait til u guys see the newest epa engine hahahahahahahaha J.O.K.E JOKE after this class i found a 87 superliner with a magnum 500 i bought it and am in the process of fixing it up with the little things it needs and will be paintin it next week cuz in a year and a half i am done with this bs and am going to be signing on with a local transfer station and ill be haulin 53 foot garbage trailers makin 300 bucks mor a week and no aggrevation manufactuers are getting out of hand with these federal law regulated designs and its a shame cuz alot of honest truck owners and workers are the ones that are getting hurt well im done ramblin on if anyone has any complaints or questions feel free to shoot them my way and ill try my best to help resolve them but All You Mack Guys And DieHard Mack Enthusiasts The End Of Great Products And Trucks Is Here

Thanx for chiming in!I sumwhat agree with some of your comments Yup we need help lots of it!If Barry will see to it that you can join in on the Corporate forum Please get signed up. You will see what is being talked about. Your help will be greatly appreciated As for the mp ten we have only two here running the hyw and off road yup they need to buy better wiring.

and Its nice to work on in the Titain which right now is the only model its offered in!

As for bullet proof The mp engines replaced an already bullet proof engine that had the same crap bolted to it which also ruined that engine The base engine was good the bolt ons were trash as they are on the volvo Engine!The diffrence being it was easier to work on than the mp engines .

you'll have to pardon my negitivity towards the mp but the out landish flat rate times they give you to do stuff is rediculus to say the least.

Just getting to do half the tests you have to do for some of the most stupid problems that have already been learned by mack we are doing the same stuff over agian!

I would really like you to take part in the corporate forum PLEASE contact BARRY and GET signed up Bro.

I HAVE A 1999 CH 613 E7 427 ENGINE. IDLES FINE WHEN U ACCELERATE IT RUNS ROUGH. IT GIVES A FAULT CODE OF 1 - 8 CAN SOMEONE TELL ME WHAT THAT IS .

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Well thanx for the post!I aint never adjusted a wheel that way in 35 years of truck work But if thats a proper way then fine.

Buried on the Mack web sight there is reference to a new econodyne engine and a rear axle

carrier. But the big news is reference to a new model**********! Could it be the revival of

the **********? We shall see.

Burried where on the site?

i'll get a different pinion gear and change it out and hope that fixes it. ive basically got a new truck now and lots of experience and lessons learned,lol Thanks for all the help guys. I'll will post a update towards end of week, on whether it fixes it or not.

You need to count the bull and spur too, there CAN be a difrence there as well!Pull the fill plug on the rear diff and count the teeth thru the hole!

Jack it up and have somone turn the wheel and count!other wise you'll be in the same pickle jar!Make sure the rear matches the front!

now we're cooking.

SO the question IS practicality!

THE Answer in my mind is NO! Not practical.

...and then, if you are caught, the EPA will be after whatever is left in your bank account.

Seems like it would be easier to just find a wrecked pre-emission truck with a good engine and swap everything.

You'll have a nice lawn orniment when your done thou!

now we're cooking.

OK you 2, I seen this comin !

I'll nibble! I think it would be too costly to do! To time consuming to do ! Maybe once youv'e made your second Million and your semi retired then get a donor truck and swap all the wiring stuff over into your CH and Jerrys CX then it will be worth it!Dont forget the engine brain is on the other side of the engine on the older trucks theres a lot more to this than just poping off a turbo.

And removing the egr cooler crap! huge can of worms!

Just my opinion!

don't look at it that way post about it anyway. I don't think anybody here thinks you're a posting whore. I read all your threads because we have a lot of similar probs/interest and the guru guys give good clear answers and always help.

I wish Mack or the repair manual publishers would hire folks like fred and MackPro to sit down and show them how to write manuals and what to put in them.

Naw My manual would resemble a comic book with hyrogliphics! unFortunatly those poeple are writers and don't know the open end from the ring end of a wrench !The guy I REALLY want to meet thou, is the guy that does the flat rate times for the new engines and stuff, He will be a true ledgend!These guys are greased lightning compared to almost anyone ,They do any job Twice as fast as anyone I Know , in almost All cases.AND the engines and stuff they work on work flawlessly when they are done.If you read the manual AND all the stuff they can acomplish in the Time given Its inspiring, He must be an Icon.

That Guy is one Guy I would love to meet! maybe, His Greatness will Rub off on me, Heres for hopen!

Untill then though I'll just GET IT DONE and hope for the best.

honestly the american manuals arent to bad. You work on so Korean or Japan made stuff the translating is real poor! Its a real double wammy!

Well.... changed the oil cooler, It looked good(not pluged). BUT there were some metal filings in the coolent tubes!? and no cavatation on the caps. Last time I checked the only moving part in the cooling system is the waterpump. any one got an xray gun I can borrow so I can check the pump LOL! james

any one got an xray gun I can borrow so I can check the pump LOL! james

Fresh Out

Bro!

Ahh yes Water pump Time!

Gambi

How are you checking it Bro?Are you preasuring it up? Or are you just looking?

Preasuring it up is the ONLY sure Fire way of finding leaks, And you need to Preasurize EVERYTHING at once the tubo the after cooler and the engine!

I'm Not Trying to degrade you in any way!But somtimes people think just looking is good enough!Its NOT!

If you havent already done so, your going to have to make testing equipment a rubber hose that will fit the turbo snail inlet and a bung to plug that with put regulated air to it 30-35 psi You may only need 10- 15 to find what your looking for cause it sounds like A big leak to me!You may also need to turn the engine sum to get the preasure to biuld and it will .If you don't find anything the turbo May be At fault I have seen turbos that will not spool properly right out of the box! But It sounds like a leak to me!

If you have already done this I stand corrected .

Fred

I've checked checked and re-checked all that. Just keeps gettin doggier... 702k miles and the fuel system hasn't been touched, I'm sure its due for a check-up.

Gambi

How are you checking it Bro?Are you preasuring it up? Or are you just looking?

Preasuring it up is the ONLY sure Fire way of finding leaks, And you need to Preasurize EVERYTHING at once the tubo the after cooler and the engine!

I'm Not Trying to degrade you in any way!But somtimes people think just looking is good enough!Its NOT!

If you havent already done so, your going to have to make testing equipment a rubber hose that will fit the turbo snail inlet and a bung to plug that with put regulated air to it 30-35 psi You may only need 10- 15 to find what your looking for cause it sounds like A big leak to me!You may also need to turn the engine sum to get the preasure to biuld and it will .If you don't find anything the turbo May be At fault I have seen turbos that will not spool properly right out of the box! But It sounds like a leak to me!

Fred

I'd like to know too.

...can that VGT crap be programmed out of the computer or no?

Anything is posible with A little money I guess!Is It worth It???

Probably not to many RB's with 460 ETECHs in them running around? if you know of any , ask to raise the hood and measure the diameter of W/P pully or ask the local Mack dealer to pull one off the shelf and measure and compare it to what you have on the truck . I have seen wrong parts put in the right box, gotta remember we now have Volvo in charge so anything is possible. Maybe a slipping water pump impeller, rare but it has happened. Also I saw a lower crank pully so wore out that the V-belts were sinking to the bottom and not grabbing good when tight, long shot though. Mack used to make lower temp thermostats but our parts guys here only keep the standard one (180 I think). I does have a thermostat in it I hope.

Lower stat is a lower stat It will open lower but still be open That probly won't fix the problem.

i like the water pump check idea makes sence!

Like I said let us know how it goes with the cooler change if it does the trick or not!

Guess thats worth a try if ya got the hose Glenn!

This is a real valid thought! Check into that one!

I have seen the wrong water pump put on and the truck over heats (pully to small or to big).

I wish I could find a daycab all snazzed up like that. I rarely see any Macks all decked out...never a daycab tho.

When you get your 5th one bought, lemme know. lol

Wonder how Mackpro68 is doing with his EGR experiment...

We got our first plate in!I made it up last week took ten minutes and a peice of 1/8 plate ,We'll see!????

Haven't heard back on the results yet!Heres for hopen!

I'm still a little leary on turbo wheel speed!

Most all 1992 CH's had electronic fuel pumps, if it does, it really needs to have the idle set with a computer/Mack dealer. Is the throttle pedal have a linkage rod (manual pump)going to it or electrical wires/plug. If it is a electronic pump/throttle pedal the idle can be raised but I'll have to find it in the book and post it here.

68

350-400 hp were Vmac the 300 could be either or in this vintage! If its mechanical there is a screw under the lever on the side of the pump the rear ward screw adjusts the idle!I belive 8 mil or 10 mill wrench to do the job.

You can, If its turned on in the puter adjust the idle with switches as well if its Vmac!

I know that the pyro max is 1200 deg, but I'm sure that's not a sustained 1200. My truck constantly/quickly climbs to 1000+ on a regular basis. Just curious if the cause can be in the injection pump-retarded/off timing..?? I was going to make an appointment at Midwest Diesel Injection, they say they've got a diagnostic code reader deal that they can plug in to the truck and adjust things and what not. How much info can be gathered before the pump has to come off and be checked out...? I was thinking of having them replace the injectors and pull the pump as they can bench test them and calibrate.

First off Id check for Boost leaks High pyro indicates among other stuff lack of air!Pluged air filter poor turbo performance yada yada Before spending big bucks!

Just my two cents

i have known this guy for 35 years, like myself he is a tradesman who is old and body aces we just happen to drive trucks now.

we are not truck drivers i am a carpenter he is a mason,it is an economy thing, housing market has driven us elsware.

i would feel no different sending him to ca. in my truck than myself, he like myself would take better care of some thing we have been entrusted with, than something we owned.

we have worked for each other threw the years,

when you are a man of your word, there can be no problems

he had kids

i saved.

Well if Hes a bro and you want to help out then Its A call that you got to make!

Its a truck, trucks break! Can he help keep the bandaids on!

I'd feel better putting him in an older unit Sumthing I new wasn't going to break down leaving him with decisions to make with your money is all!

Just somthing to think on!

Its a 460. the real problem is it runs hot, not gonna say over heats but hot(it has shut it down twice last year) it always has since new! Ive had 5 core rad made for it, I clean it alot(take air/air off to blow out) have checked time and time againg for air leaks, checked air comp., done bubble test and comb. gas test, changed water pump, put mechanical gauge in, new vicus fan, switched to longlife(red) coolent, had at dealer number of times and we cant fig. out!? so oil cooler was cheap enough and had the cash, if Im gonna take rad hose off to check for scale, might aswell change it out. like i said its orginal cooler. any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

I have wondered if i could put a bigger fan(blades) as there is about 2" from tip of blades to shroud. not enough distance from rad to waterpump to put air fan.

Man you done everything your doing the last resort thing now!Let Us know how it goes!!!!!!

Your in the era for casting sand in the block I beleive, was there ever any compressor over heat problems?

Also low liners! has it been blowing coolant out?Or over preasuring the rad?We had one truck 2000 era blowing water filters off!Bubble tests don't work well as you can't check under load Been my observation the gas test kits are junk on a diesel engine they show nil!

Just guessing but If this cooler don't do the trick Liners would be my bet!

I think your real close for time on the cooler change out!

Just some thoughts

they told me they would bring the truck and all paper work to the states, and take care of every thing. it would be no more trouble to me than a local purchase???????????

I Can tell you tell ya that the truck was dressed out at our shop on Vancouver Island and made its way to the other side of the Nation! http://nanaimomack.com/ Check out westcoast edition!

As for buying another truck Naw two headaches.Ya can't count on somone else to do the job properly!Your just buying him a job!

what about the nylon fuel pump gear? seen it where it will run due to torque on gear but would not start. just a guess!?

This here is too vague. Is this a VMac engine?What is fairly common on a vmac pump is the rack actuator fails!In this case the pump has to come off to be repaired!

HK brings up a good point is the dash lighting up when the key is turned on?The acc relay will cause the heater and dash not to work! And will not let theengine light up!

i checked top gear sets when i pulled carriers out cuz ya have to remove covers to get two of the bolts. I'm stumped, i thnk the next step is to pull frnt carrier back out and count all teeth. it has dayton whls all around. and i will go double check and make sure all are tight.

I agree its time to count!

yeah there is and yeah it seemed to be ok to me when i changed trans

Ryan I bin following this post and the input has been all valid here!I would how ever check the top gear sets on both diffs for peices if you havent already,pull the side covers and look at em.your ratio mis match is highly likly at this point wouldn't take very much with this style of interaxle drive to cause a problem like this! I beleive this was mentioned But again, If one of the diffs has a Mack limited slip in it, this will bang and pop.

Bud or spoke Wheels?

spoke Are they Tight?

Simple but valid questions

Cracked bud wheels make one heck of a noise!