fjh

Just as an update , wanted to let everyone know it turned out to be a bad bosch fuel ecm. Runs fine now , has'nt shut off since. Rich

Thanx for posting your fix!Glad ya found the problem!

Hey Guys,

I'm new here, just started driving a '98 RD688s, Mechanical E-7 350. The Jake works fine but will not stop itself at an idle. It just stalls the truck out. Is there a switch or something that could be messed up? Like I said however, other than at an idle it works fine, you can hold the switches on either the clutch or throttle and keep it running at an idle, but that gets old doing it all day long. Any thoughts would be appreciated, Thanks! Matt

On mechanical engines thats the way it is! Normal!

Drain the oil, drop the pan, remove the fuel inlet line to the cylinder block, remove the fuel system check valve from the block and plug the block off with a 16mm x 1.5 o-ring seal plug, attach pressure vessel with UV dyed fuel and pressurize the fuel gallery and look for leaks coming around the cam lobes for the injectors and/or running down the block from the area of the camshaft.

Another possible place is Injectors as I beleive that year of engine still has a spill off lin in the head ,the fuel transfer pump seal is also a possible place Eups is the top of the three suspects.

I would not try to start untill i had a mack mechanic check it out. Sounds like it has stuck a barrel and plunger while in full fuel position. It may not but if you dont know mack engines you dont want to learn on this one. Who ever starts it need a choke plat and intake off down to the metal side of the intake of the turbo.

I would check out the turbo seeif it didn't creater on the way home!

Hi everyone, hope all is well. I finally got to drive the Mack last week, the 20spd was fun but I found them all... eventually

I went to go start it today because its going down for a dyno tomorrow and it would not start and the fuel has drained back again. it has new fuel lines, the valve in the right side of pump for return line was cleaned and has new o rings. what else could it be?

thanks for your help.

Grant

Did you replace all the orings ect on the return line tubes ?

As we all know Mack parts are mostly proprietary and VIN driven. Lots of stuff has to come from the dealer.....but some parts do escape.....and can be had for a reasonable price.

I would like to open this thread as a place to put suppliers and links to parts that don't have to come from dealers.

I know this would improve my bottom line and could raise yours too.....

Bro

For Me as being an employee of a mack dealer We go out of our way to be compeditive on those type jobber parts you speak of And Im here to tell ya (some) of that stuff sold is shit.

We got into that jazz for awhile selling no name reman and other (new) parts And Me And the rest of the Guys in the service were all over the parts guys to change back to buying parts thru the Parent company!Theres at least you will get a warrenty with the stuff you buy and the quality tends to be some what better.

The jobber stuff on the other hand tends to fail more often and you get to keep both halves when it breaks.

So the next time you see somthing so cheap sumwhere you can resist remember the old saying Theres likly a good reason. Not always but some times.

Also remember part of the reason the captive parts aer so high is the fact that the consumables are being exploited by the jobber types and the dealer has to keep the doors open some how! The profit on those consuables is narrow in part due to this exploitation.So theres no place spread the pain.

Just an opinion

just wandering if fjh tried that program yet, or is every one waiting for me to be the ginnypig

whats an air comp. and this thing gona cost me.$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ or should i keep going

going to houston where i can kick some largecar butt

Nope your the pig!

You will lkly have to by a Head for the compressor the whole thing is over a grand up here! the Head is 400 500.The compressors rarly fail the heads fail a fare bit!

Thanks for the help appreciate it rhasler

Yup put the rush on that if its still under warrenty!

.... :idunno:

We use to open up All the thresholds related to rpm in the customer programing to max that is the best you can do it is pretty much imposible to get max horse power where your wanting it and have any torque to go with it !

Hi everybody

I just had a quick question about a Mack that i want to buy my husband for his bd and i thought this would be the best place to ask my question.. lol

Okay here it is:

I'm looking into getting him a 89 Mack DM with a E-6 turbo 300, "the guy wrote 300 macadie if that changes anything" can anybody tell me if these motors are any good? It's a roll off and it will be working alot so i dont really want to buy him a truck that he will always have problems with the motor or something like that you know??

Been there already with the darn 3116 Caterpillars.

Now apparently the engine and transmission were rebuilt about 100,000km ago. And i think the truck has close to 800,000km.

Thanks in advance!

The Maxidyne engine is 3 times that little Cat engine depending on its treatment the engine will be the least of your worries!

Dm is a very tough truck again depending on how its been treated will do what ever it is asked to do!

If the price is right do for it!

wish i had it now, headed east threw Co. on I70 in the am

allmost worth the extra 100 miles or so to go around.

SOOO ! Did 68 get this Data file in and did it Fix your issue????

Thanx

pull your belts and run it some.

[/quote}

I'd be doing this first! nail it down first! A Metallic sound ???? Is It a churp or a scraping a rattle?

Bad lifter will make a Metallic chirping sound. Fan hub or water pump is possible. Take the belts off! and run it as Glen stated

Air fuel control diaphragm?

The LDA will repair the smoke problem to some degree but maybe not the power.

Glad ya found the problem Maybe?

Same engine used in the Ford 9000/9600 ag tractor. Valves in .015 hot, ex .018 hot, head bolts don't know.

FW

Thanx

found the head torque 160 ft pounds you gave me the lash,So I'm good to go thanks.

May get this puppy running next week!

Hi Guys

Need some specs AGAIN !

I got Chucked into the middle of another job of the unknown variety this little unit it is a street sweeper Euro Ford cab !It got over heated and the head cracked so I / We are replacing the head.

Has any one got specs on a 170 horse Ford/ New holland six I need the valve set specs and head torque for this little unit it is a street sweeper Euro Ford cab ?

Thanx

Fred

Mack sent me a new engine data file for your truck, next time your in we'll install it. they say no side affects at lower altitude.

Let Us Know if this data file thing works Chuck I got a customer that has a similar issue.

Thanx

Well guys, the guy working on my truck thinks my problem is in the injector pump. That's why the truck is over fueling when it gets aload on it. When you back off the gas some it some of the smoke clears up and you have to the truck build speed like that. He was saying when he was cracking on the lines #2 goes to flutting abit. I'm new to this, but I'm trying to learn as much as I can. I just had the injectors done, and ran the rack. He checked all the lines, hose, and the turbo. In the morning I'm taking it to a guy that does injector pumps, I'm about to go trucks with this truck!!!

Hope Hes Right!

No, that's way low.18-23 psi is normal boost.21 is about avg. turned up pump is 25 psi...Check the turbo like said above. I had a housing melt away allowing exhaust to bypass the blades and thus no boost over 14 psi could be made...

Yup

check for leaks or the turbo your way down on boost!You need to preasure up the intake side of the engine with at least 20 psi to fined leaks properly how are you checking it?

Great thanks for the info

Now with the puff limiter d/c is that why we blow a bit of smoke?

Yup Black smoke on excel

Hi all,

Just wondering if someone can help me with what I am looking at on my R688RST.

What are the two components circled?? Should they be hooked up anywhere?

Teh first pic is the engine brake trigger

The second two are the puff limit or smoke control device!Both cases won't hurt anything!

What exactly does this air line do? It isn't hooked up on my truck and is the blue line in the following pic.

I just want to make sure having these things not hooked up won't hurt my engine!!

He said not to quote him...

He quoted spec.s, All is good!

Don't quote me on this but with some horse power changes the cam key must be changed yours my be one of these!

Why yes, yes I could!

See Chuck No Problem there! Were here for ya

BUD !

Sounds like all those EGR problems paid off for someone! Somewhere in the back of my head I hear Dave Chappelle....

I think fjh is probably on the right track, especially if '68 checked that boost relief valve out recently.

yup that guy made enough money to take a Vacation! Why don't ya drop

up my way Chuck I need a vacation! How bout you Rass ? you could use a week in the Sun couldn't ya!

the correct way to check egr is to unplug it ????????????

If you unplug it it will code out!

The valve is controled by the flow in the mass flo tube the valve really only goes where its told to go the computer does not know if its getting there or not!It would show up on the advance display in diagnostics as not reaching target but won't throw a code for it!

put the block plate in, that 68 made ya and try it!

If it is the egr valve your floating boost will be gone!