fjh

Check the return spring and throttle lever first.. if thats ok then it sounds like the pump or gov is getting worn out. time for a check up! some have claimed they may run away if it gets worn out real bad...

Yup like Trent has said check the the throtle lever internal spring if there is any movment between the spring ends this will cause the engine to surge!If its not loose then the govener is at falt!

I recently bought a 1994 MS 200 Midliner with 377CI diesel engine that had been sitting for a year. It now blows some anti freeze out of the engine breather pipe when driving. It also looks as though there may be some anti freeze in the oil. Was wondering what to check first.

Its a wet sleave engine, you need to pull the pan down a look to see where the coolant is coming in!

It is likly liner orings But oil coolers have been known to fail as well!Parts a quite pricey so think VERY heavy on looking for a diffrent truck!

I WAS TOLD THAT IT IS THE WAY MACK PUTS THE CARBIDE ON THE LIFTER AND HAS AIR TRAPPED BETWEEN THE TWO.

GG2

Giant 2 the engine he has has roller lifters!His failure is as 68 discribed ,Nature of the beast! The cam failures are pretty much few and far between now once, the newer ceramic lifter is installed!(For the most part)

The flat tappet lifter of the pre ETeck engine was improoved just before the ETeck engine came along!Since that time I have never seen that improoved lifter fail.It is used in all the earlier engines including the E6 And V8.

10-4 Allowing water in combustion chamber and its trying to combust that water

A poor spraying injector will also cause problems like this!

Thanks for the info, I will try clearing the plug and see what happens, what is this plug called?? It keeps getting progressively worst so I'm thinking it is fuel related, at first I was thinking a sensor or something electrical.

It is simply the main fuel pump plug !When you have this apart look at it head on and see if there are any signs of heat, brown looking areas on any of the plastic pin bosses If you find any that look discolored I would go to the dealer and have it repined!

Have it hold its breath and hang upside down for 30 seconds...usually works for me...

Anyway, maybe try taking that 9-pin plug apart (unscrew approx. 1/4 turn and pull apart) on the back side of the injection pump and blow it out good with an air gun and reconnect.

Take this plug apart as directed above and put it together and take it apart 6 or 7 times blow it out and try it this may help.If not take it to a dealer and have them re pin the plug.

There are actually four bolts between pump and first cast section which is fastened to next section which I believe contains some sort of timing advance system. Not there right now but I think three bolts between these two. Loosening the four bolts between aluminum pump and first cast iron section does not seem to loosen pump at all.

Thanks Peter

I beleive there are three ,If you take it off at the 4 bolts it will hang up on the hub inside!There is one real long one on the bottom 6 - 8 inches and two shorter ones 3-4 inch on the top 13 or 15 mil heads can't remember sizes.The timing advance stays on the engine.the first little section stays with the pump.There is a loose or floating coupling inside.

Hi

Can any one give me a proceedure for removing a Bosch Electronic contolled pump from engine of 93 CH613 {believe E7 350] to have it repaired.It appears there are a couple spots it could be split from engine but I assume only one that works.

Thanks for now.

Welcome to the site!

You simply unbolt it from the fuel pump end!First you need to set the engine on its static timing mark on the fly wheel veiwed thru the six hole small plate on the bottom.You remove the timing event marker on the side of the fuel pump (single two wire plug) and peer in the hole there should be a wide blade screwdriver looking tab if its not there you need to turn the engine 180 deg and look again once you have that tab dead center in the timing event marker hole and the engine on the timing mark typicly 7 Deg you can safely remove the pump removing the 3 bolts holding it on!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130283840291&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

That price is what we pay for a recon up here in Canada.

I would like to see someone get one installed for $1200 to $2500!

I would like to see someone get one installed for $1200 to $2500!

We got to fine sum first!Don't think anybodys making one as of yet!

This is where we need to get in here 68, put a tiger torch in an old oil barrel mount it under the passenger side cab and call it a dpf

We could stand to make millions!

Thought I would post this for discusion!

The BC government has lost there marbles If they ever had any!

SUBJECT: Upcoming Diesel Retrofit Requirement

Managers, Victoria Carrier Safety Inspectors Driver Services Centers

Motor Vehicle Inspectors Government Agents TRANS (Director, Chair

Passenger Transportation Board Supt. of Motor Vehicles Transportation Policy)

Deputy Director, CVSE Trucking Industry

Regional CVSE Managers Law Enforcement Agencies

Managers, ICBC Licensing Commercial Transport Insp.

ADM (Compliance and Consumer (Inspection Stations)

Services) Passenger Transportation Branch

____________________________________________________________________________________

PURPOSE OF CIRCULAR

To advise that an amendment to the Motor Vehicle Act Regulations will come into effect on

October 1, 2010. This will require that heavy duty diesel vehicles of the model years 1989-1993

be retrofitted with emissions reduction devices. This requirement will apply to vehicles with

licensed gross vehicles weights of more than 8,200 kg that are required to be inspected under

the Commercial Vehicle Inspection Program (CVIP). The following vehicle classes will be

exempt from the requirement:

 Buses

 X-plated vehicles

 Emergency vehicles

 Farm vehicles with LGVW under 17,300 kg

Acceptable emissions reduction devices reduce particulate matter (PM) emissions by at least

20% and are verified by the following agencies:

 US Environmental Protection Agency: http://www.epa.gov/otaq/retrofit/verif-list.htm

 California Air Resource Board: http://www.arb.ca.gov/diesel/verdev/vt/cvt.htm

The diesel retrofit will be an additional inspection item included in the Commercial Vehicle

Inspection Program. Impacted vehicles will not pass their required periodic vehicle inspection

without a retrofit. CVSE roadside enforcement will also be monitoring compliance of this

requirement.

BACKGROUND

The diesel retrofit requirement was originally announced by the Minister of Environment in June

2007 as part of the Air Action Plan. The intent of the initiative is to reduce harmful particulate

matter emissions from heavy emitting diesel vehicles by at least 20%. Particulate matter is a

significant air quality and public health concern and is linked to cardiovascular and respiratory

hospitalizations, respiratory diseases, chronic obstructive lung disease, chronic bronchitis,

pneumonia, heart disease and lung cancer.

Vehicle owners will be responsible for the cost of the retrofit estimated to be between $1,200

and $2,500 depending on vehicle type.

Further information (FAQs) can be found at: www.th.gov.bc.ca/cvse/diesel_retrofit/.

Link to Air Action Plan: http://www.bcairsmart.ca/.

For questions on this initiative contact: diesel.retrofit@gov.bc.ca or call 250-356-9797.

Greg Gilks,

Anyone know where we can get aprox 10000 dpf addon kits quick?????????????/

These guys are serious!

I agree with a lot of what you have said here !

Althou I beleive the v8 died long before Sven and Ollie took over,Blaming volvo for that is not the right thing, the EPA killed the v8.

would it be best to make it home take off turbo and drive it to where ever they rebuild them???

or just bite the bullit or (naval artillery shell) and purchase a brand new one?????

jerryb just bought one on ebay for 500 bucks.

maybe i could work something out with him, like my turbo and what ever it cost to have one rebuilt

havn't heard from him in a while. don't know whether he's bizzy or mad?????????????

>Let it idle for 16 hours last night and when i left the truckstop this morning smoked like an old pos detroit that was on fire. <

Far as Im concerned ,look no further than that statment above For your oil burning problem and the turbo leak!

Idling is the absolute Worst ,thing you can do to a diesel or any kind of engine No ,load is a no no period!

Just came through Wyoming, glad I didn't go through Colorado because my enginebreak is doing the samne thing. High is low and low is nothing. Scarey in the hills.

If its a warrenty item you should get it delt with!Is the fault light coming on?If there is a solnoid problem the computer will throw a engine brake driver code!Question Did those guys replace any rocker bolts?Were there any charged out on any of the reciepts you got, Just a thought (not tring to put the fear of god into you) but if rocker bolts are backing off you may be loosing oil preasure to the rocker shaft.

Thanks for the welcome fjh.

I just got into this truck yesterday and when I was done late last night all I wanted to do is get into me little Neon and go up hills fast to get home.

I'll have to read the info if available in the truck's paperwork.

I just thought there would be a general idea of what cold be wrong like weak tubo or fuel pump preasure adjust or somthing off the top of someone's head type of answer that would be linked to the rebuild.

I'll have to get back here Monday or Tuesday with more information.

Thanks for the reply.

Rick

With out good info comments are usless until you have good info!As I mentioned things change from year to year horse power to horse power.

Purchased truck with 440,000 miles on it. Was told it had a fresh service. At 251,000 did complete service oil and filters. At 251,000 it did not use a drop of oil.

It appeared 1 quart low on the dipstick when I filled it up. At 255,000 it showed about 2 quarts low. At 456,600 it read almost a gallon low. Noticed frame was wet below turbocharger. I don't know if it is coming from the turbocharger but it is wet below it. And the linkage that controls the ditch appears to be damp. Am headed west out of Cheyenne Wyoming today. Am going to be pulling over major mountains today. Will do my best to keep exhaust temp below 1000 degrees.

This truck had turbocharger replaced between 390,000 and 400,000 miles. Was wondering if there would be any warranty on this turbocharger and if the warranty would carry over to the new owner?

I know I lean on you guys a lot but I really appreciate your help.

I.m doubtfull on the warrenty thing Chuck 68 be the man to talk to.

Parts warrenty I beleive is a Year, Transferable ? Duno!

Make sure its not the turbo drain tube!

This truck was just assigned to me when it came back from the Mack dealer. They say it just had a partial rebuild that replaced the sleaves and rods and all that stuff.

I don't have the details on the truck other than it's a late 1990s tractor with a 6 cylender diesal.

The truck runs real smooth and sounds good but it can't go up hills and takes for ever in each gear to get up to speed on the highway. It will do 75+ mph but it takes forever to get there.

Our mechanic is a nice guy but hasn't got a clue as to what's wrong. I'm sure they wouldn't have spent the money they did on it if the first 410k miles were put on as slow as the 500 miles I put on it yesterday. Droppng a gear going up about a 3 or 4% grade with 8,000 lbs of freight in the trailer just ain't right.

Does anyone have any suggestions on what I can tell our mechanic to check or adjust to help me go up hills with a little less embarrasment.

Thank you.

Rick

Welcome to the site!

You need to provide more info!

the horse power of the truck

Is the truck electronic or manual fuel pump

late 90's is to vague to many changes between years!

any symtoms it may have helps loads

-black smoke no smoke pyro and boost readings!

-these all help in reguards to repairs

Hey Folks,

Thank you for taking the time to read this post. I have a problem with a 1996 Mack 427 engine and I am lost. The original driver complaint was exhaust temperature had been running hot in the past but has settled down. Loss of power and excess smoke was also now occurring. After tearing the top end off the engine, I found that the exhaust manifold had gotten extremely hot where it has burned off that rust coat that forms on these cast iron manifolds near the #5 cylinder. It got so hot that it started to melt the port that attaches to the turbo. The cast iron inside the exhaust manifold was actually turned to molten metal. My first thought was that I had a leaking injector but they were tested and are good. Next, I noticed that there was "soft" (powdery) carbon in all exhaust ports as if all the cylinders were burning at a normal temperature. So, my next thought was that maybe this "hot" condition happened some time ago and the condition clear up but the damage that was done previously was just now surfacing to cause problems. One note here. A year or so ago, the exhaust pipe blew out and had to be replaced. The boss fixed it but took off one of the mufflers and stack and converted it to a single exhaust system. After the driver complained about loss of power, it was converted back to dual exhaust. Could this have caused the engine to run hot?

So, now my question is, what condition can cause one or two cylinders to run extremely hot on a 427? There is definitely heat damage to the exhaust manifold and turbo. It does have an exhaust brake but that appears to be OK - open at rest and no sticking linkage. What's left that makes a diesel run extremely hot? It does have a computer but I believe that it only controls the rack and does not control each cylinder individually so I don't think that is it. All that is left is the pump. Any thoughts? Anything will help. Thank you to all in advance!

Chris

Welcome to the site!

Some items of intrest!All dual stack mufflers are not created equal!

The dual stack mufflers DO NOT flow as well as a single stack muffler so removing one may have caused this problem.

Why no# 5 don't know You may have a fuel pump problem as well!Or Check to see if the compressor inlet line is not leaking at the compressor head It enters the manifold near No#5 cyl That may be the problem!I have seen the air drier check valves fail dumping the boost out the air drier, The best test for any intake leaks is to preasure test the intake system by puting 30 psi shop air to the whole system .You say the exhast brake is working BUT is it coming off all the way

this maybe causeing greif if it is not returning to the off position.

Just some stuff to think on!

We usually raise the truck (or at least the front) about 12" off the ground. It is easier to work on and get the trans under the fuel tanks while on the trans jack. Like fjh said you can jack under the clutch housing to raise and lower. After the mounts are removed we bolt angle irons legs on the side of the clutch housing for safty and to get the floor jack out of the way. For installation the only trick we've found is to install studs (or bolts with the heads cut off) in the clutch housing to help with alighment. After the trans is in place you can pull the studs and INSTALL THE BOLTS WITH LOCTITE.

To add to Daves coments,

Another trick is to pull the drivers fuel tank as he air tank has to come out anyway it makes things a bit easier

4 bolts and the crossover line and its off as long as you got a fork lift,this way you don't need to lift the truck as high. We have a set of chains with hooks on em to bolt to the bellhousing once the trans is out we hang the engine from the engine mount where the rubbers go!

hey guys, if any of you you recall from my other thread, i mentioned that my 12 speed was having issues. well, the decision has been made to pull it out and have it rebuilt. i will be doing the removal and installation myself, so i am writing this to get some advice and tricks of the trade for this undertaking. i noticed that the engine and tranny are held in by three mounts; one in the front center of the engine and two on either side of the bell housing. can i pull the tranny and leave the bellhousing on the engine? seems like that would help me avoid what could be a big job. also, while the tranny is out the clutch will be changed, so does the bellhousing have to come off for that or not necessarily?

any advice will be greatly appreciated

Remove the floor boards

Jack under the engine bell housing!remove the engine mount rubbers on the rear this means the top ones as well!This lets you have room to lower the engine and trans for removal.You may have to remove one side at a time to get the upper rubbers out!I highly sugest going in thru the bottom cover and removing the clutch from the fly wheel it make everything much easier with the clutch left with the trans!don't forget to Remove the clutch linkage.If this is the first time out for the trans the rh engine mount bolts will be in from the top down you may have to cut the heads off em to remove em install em with the bolts up from the bottom on install, MARK ALL THE AIR LINES apon removall!

My hints for now if ya need more help just ask!

Mack sold Hayes around '75 so that engine would have had to be a re-fit.

Yup !The truck was born cummins then repowered with 3408 then

repowered mack about 10-15 years ago Its funny this post popped up now!

We just rebuilt the engine again last week cause number 4 the main bearing cap had shuffled and would not accept new main bearings (This an odd occurance on a V8) as we were doing a bearing rollin!Ended up building an engine from a diffrent block from scratch to get it hauling logs again!Its a 500 with an 18 speed behind it!It had a 12 speed behind but was upgraded several years back to the 18.Its a neat old truck there were only several ever built!

Somehow there is a way to check all the warning lights in the instrument cluster but I have forgot how...Anyone help?

Book mark this! for your further enjoyment!

http://www.nortrux.ca/index.php?page_id=1033

Check exhaust manifold and gaskets for leaks. May find a black mark or soot in the area.

Head gasket leak between the heads is a possibility ! Or a bad cam roller.

Yep, you got the best pump out there. It's the P-pump seen on the 94-98 Dodge pickups, Cummins 8.3, 93-97 DT408, 466, 530 IH, and the 93 Ford 7.8, I'm sure there's plenty more. Start out with pulling off the AFC(top cover with 4 bolts) and slide the little plate(fuel plate) forward. Details and pix are listed with the DT466 in the link Phantom posted, which is my site.

Easier said than done on this there is a tamper proof screw on the back side that is a real pain to get to!The fuel lines are right above It

Whats the difference between the E9 400, 440, 450, 500, 600? is it just pump adjments? reason Im askn is Im look at a tractor with a 450. It will be used for heavy dump work. Did the different hp ratings have diffent torque rating? bobo

Fuel pump settings and injector settings! sum times a diffrent turbo!