fjh

Hello All.

We took the pan off and the bearing on number 8 looked good. There is a little play on the wrist pin but it hard

to tell when laying under there.

My next question is how much of the intake manifold is to be removed to get the head off ? Is it like a chevy 350 where everything has to be taken off to get at the head. Or can I take the 4 bolts that the intake bolts to the head and then slide the head down and away from it ?

Thanks in advance for your replies.

Byron

You leave the intake in place.

Remove the air plumbing from the turbo inlet get it out of your way,Remove the cross over pipe that joins the to inlet manifolds together, remove the 6 intake bolts and the exhast manifold bolts and remove the rear section of the exhast from the head you are working on only . remove or pull back the two water rail bolts from the back head(under the intake) remove the valve cover and rocker gear ,woop the head bolts out and the head will pop off!Less than 2 hours you'll have it off.Once there you'll likly find bits and peices inbeded in the pistion thats valve seat, these peices can travel into the turbo so inspect the exhast wheel and stuff closely and if the wheel looks OK back blow the exhast tube on that side!You got the pan off so remove the piston if the liner is not damaged buy or get a used pistion

inspect the wrist bushing fo pits or cracking if ok reuse find a good runner head and your back in business!

Hello.

We have a 1980 superliner mack with a e9 v-8 engine. It developed a knock in the engine, with oil or diesel fuel running out the exhaust manifold. We took the injector line of to number 8 cylinder and it smoothened right out. Thinking it was a bad injector, we numbered and took them all out and down to the injection shop. They say their is nothing wrong with it and it appears to be a new one.

Does anyone have any suggestions. We are going to put the injectors back in, after they get cleaned up and see. The valve springs don't appear to be broken.

Should we take the pan off or take the head off.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks

Byron

You likly have a droped valve seat!This usually happens when the engine is shut down ,next time the engine is started it begins to knock! more of a hammering sound! Pull the head off and look!you will likly need to replace the piston, liner Maybe , and head .

and turbo if ths is what you find!

Hey guys I'm looking to fine out where the above mentioned solnoid is on the tractor.

I just went thru a feasco with not having reverse ,found that a bunch of wires had worn thru on the suction line to the trans ,got thous all repaired but ,still got no 4x4 so I want to check the solnoid and see if it is getting juice . By the way the no reverse thing turned out to be the back up alarm shorted and not any of the broken and rubbed thru wires.So if anyone has any ideas lemeno!

Thanx

Fred

There have been problems with the headlight switches failing prematurely due to current spikes. I have also seen this sort of problem when the wrong headlamp switch has been installed. The switches for the different chassis that Mack manufactures often use switches that are similar in appearance but that have different pin locations.

Have you changed any headlights lately??? be sure you have the right headlight bulb installed, there are 2 diffrent numbers 9007 I beleive is the correct one for your truck!

But check with the dealer for the proper number!If you put the wrong light in one side it will cause this.

88 E6 350 4 valve ATA motor with Ambac pump, tag on motor and pump call for an initial timing setting of 18 degrees BTDC, I was wondering what you can safely bump the timing to for maximum performance ? Thank, Todd.

Hello Todd !I have not messed with turbos to experiment with more boost no answer for that one more boost will gain you nothing with out the fuel to go with it . The Timing could be altered to 22 degrees even as high as 24 degrees BUT I don't know what effect on performance or Life of engine to expect The timing changed as years moved on as emmisions changed. Hint ,On electronicly controled E7 the timing can vary between 12 and 24 degrees So I am making these statments as a guess that the fixed 18, degree timing on yours is a compramize number on a mechanical engine, as for the pyro temp usually taken at the turbo outlet on theses engines 1175 to 1200 max and wouldn't be pushing it past 800 - 1000 on pulls for extended periods!

Just my to pennys worth.

Best I remember and it's been 15 years ago, I used a small long chisle to make a screwdriver slot in the top of the bolt and then use a screw driver bit in a 1/4" ratchet to remove it. One time I cut the heads off with a dremel cant really remember how I got the dremel in there though? I then went to Lowes/Home Depot and replaced the screws/bolts with allen headed screws. I remember doing the Robert Bosch pumps that way all the time. The AMBAC's were nearly the same.

Yup center punch it out and cut a slot in it for a screw driver.

Just curious about this statement...how's that work...???

A VGT can produce more air than an engine can use efficently.too much air no fuel to go with it!

Not that much power in Air!

Very well Put Rob couldnt agree more.

Robert

Yup the bull dog will take awhile to kill, but they'll do it ! My bet ! Within 5 years we should have a V cab.

That is the direction i was headed in, i got home from work early today and started removing the fuel line i got the feed from the tank to the filter off but since i got the info from rhasler i am taking it back to performance and let them change the data files to the correct ones and let them know a real mechanic diagnosed the problem, i wish i was close to his shop and i wouldn't have to fool with these people....so glad i found this site, who know's where i would be without all of you - thank's everybody

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Nope this updated info changes everything follow the step Rhasler has set forth there are other things to go wrong here but get the softwear sorted out first! now that the AC item is out in the open rest asured its not the fuel preasure thing!This is why we have good boost and no power.The software thing may or may not be the answer here but ya got to try! I say this cause things changed mid stroke here before any programing was done! There may be other evil things at work here,Be sure they recalibrate the turbo and the throtle pedal And enter the cal codes (read and save customer data.)

That is enough pressure but it should be done under a load.You are using more volumun of fuel under load and if a proble is there the pressure will drop off big time under a load.

If it maintains 23 with a full load on the engine and does not drop below 20 id say your good to go But by what your discribing the drop at 2100 does not sound good !I thinK you may have a restriction some where.to test this run a good known fuel line into a bucket of fuel directly to the red filter do your test again see if the same thing happends if the gauge still drops off put the hose directly into your clean pail of fuel from the transfer pump and try again.

The Pelletiers in Millinocket bought two for the new titans.. they had them on the TV show American Loggers on Discovery Channel. The new trucks seemed to pull the big loads well so far.. The show just mentioned them last episode. I'm still nervous about the electrical gremlins the other volvoized Macks have had.. The new emissions are pretty scary... Any one know of any other Titans working ? and if they are having any problems with them?

Thanks,

Deo

http://www.geraldpelletierlogging.com got to photos and schrool down you can see one of the new Titans

So far so good we got 2 lowbed tractors working in my area, they out most everything out there.

Im looking at buying a new 2010 Mack Pinnacle CXU613 Day Cab with MP8 engine @485 hp with 18 speed Fuller tranny.

Dont know anything about a Mack as I have other IH and Freightliners.

The price is good and its available now in my color and specs.

Is this a good truck? This is a pre urea engine, dealers as lots of them still in stock, why?

They are really willing to deal on this truck.

Appreciate your inputs.

(dealers has lots of them still in stock, why?) Wishfull thinking All dealers got lots in stock from what I see.

As good as anything else out there In my opinion!There aint nothin out there that I would call dependable or wouldnt be problematic with all the electric rubish on these now!We got electric power windows ,brakes, and now mufflers these days somthings bound to go wrong at some point.

Just my two bits worth.

Thanks men i do apprricate the info and you taking time to help me.I will keep you posted on the progress.I will try another lift pump

I'm not an advocate of throwing parts at things I would tee in a preasure gauge at where the fuel enters the block and drive it with a load under the condions this happens and try it, if the fuel pressure drops down below sixty then Check the drain back valve on the block make sure its OK then work thru all the lines and check or replace em .If the fuel preasure does not drop then I duno where to send ya, The test VECU would be a though.(Usually the VECU doesn't cause performance problems when it fails) But if this ecu sees a torque limit signal it will cut the engine power some what with no code,if the wire to the ecu from the torque limit is worn or rubbed thru it can possibly cause a power complaint ,But your boost would be effected.And this would be noticalbe all the time.

after every thing we have done to the truck mechanicly I firmly belive it is in the electronics and since i have changed the ecm and then had the new turned up to dump more fuel something is telling the ecm not to dump enough fuel or it's one of the other ecm's I do not kknow what this other ecm's control by the way my cruise stopped working after this happened

I twice found a rock stuck in the inlet elbow of the red fuel filter might be worth looking at Causeing a low power thing Again fluctuating fuel preasure UNDER load!

What is baffling is the boost the boost is right where it should be!

I mean just what itn say's i was going down the road and it started losing speed untill it was down to 45 mph, on a hill it all but stops i don't mean the batteries man this is why i posted here,nobody around here can figure it out.I am a pretty good mechanic in my on right ,just not a computer genuis and that is what you have to be to work on a mack. I had one of the best mechanic's in southeast texas work on it after PERFORMANCE MACK TRIED FOR 4 WEEKS but he works at a volvo dealership and dosen't have computer acess but he could check a lot of things and his last guess was the ecm after he did all he could.He even hooked gauges to check fuel pressure boost pressure.pyro tenp fuel temp, air in fuel hooked up a lap top and had another mechanic drive it down the hiway while he checked all he could But PERFORMANCE MACK is a authorized dealer they said that they removed the parameters and short of a overhaul that was all they could do. this truck only has 430,ooo miles on it -- it was running good going down the hiway all at once it stared losing pulling power and that what happened i haven't been able to restore power since. Runs good empty but add even a lite load (20 tons) and it does 45 on flat ground 25 on hills not mountains. hills i never have to down shift this pete i just bought making same runs i made w/ mack..i no it's a stumper that's why i'm here but if you can't help i do thank you for tryingn and your time it had a 10 speed road ranger but it pulled fine for almost a year

Sorry wasn't tring to ruffle your feathers just tring to get to the bottom of the problem.

So when your pulling your guts out in say seven of 8th is and as the power is going away does the boost fall off as well?Or does the boost drop as the truck slows,you should see boost hang in till about 1400 and then the boost should fall of some and the pyro should climbif its working right ! Just some observations. My thought here is that under high fuel demand the engine is starving for fuel !In the lower gears your fuel demand is not as high once in the hight gears your using and demanding every bit of fuel.Anyway It sounds like ya had some good gurus looking at it so I doubt I can help ya over the net but for what its worth here is a couple of other thoughts a plugged vent in a fuel tank or a partly pluged fuel line on the suction side of the red fuel filter Bad fuel transfer pump the gears on these pumps have be known to fail and slip on the hub the engine will still run but the fuel preasure will be erattic under load. Don't have much to say other than that!

Sorry for not bein able to help!

Updae i sent the new ecm that i bought to jballelectronics and paid $1200 dollars to have it "turned up" to give me more horse power another 1oo hp supposely.I put it on this morning, no difference Don't waste your money on these ecm horse power incress company's it does not work, not for me any way

Bro I can't help but feel were not getting the full story here!

(4 months ago while hauling a load of logs I lost power in upper gears) does this mean what it says!? you lost pulling power ? or it quit lost battery power ?

If you lost pulling power somthing you had but is now gone in the top range Can you xplain the circumstances a bit when and how it happen all at once, during a pull on the same hill, is the boost up or low in this situation, yada yada !.Also what trans do you have!If it is a mack 18 un plug the torque limit switch on the back it may be messing with your mind some ! There is somthing going on here that the puter thinks is ok and I don't know if the guys you been dealing with have checked the peramiters in the puter to make sure all the torque settings and speed settings are opened up turn off or up 100% any derates related to road speed or set them out of reach! The problem you have maybe in the Vehicle ECU not the engine ECU.We can try and send ya the right way here hopfully we can't always fix everything but weel try.

No smoke,pyro temp is good,bost is 35 psi under load,fuel pressure is 80 psi Also forgot to add changed injectors and checked fuel lines

I wonder if your wast gate is stuck closed and your going into derate! is the engine fault light coming on? 33 psi is max on a ccrs engine it will drate after that.

First Time Posting.I need help bad.I have a 2003 ch613 w/ a 355/380 hp engine that I haul logs with, 4 months ago while hauling a load of logs I lost power in upper gears. dose good thru lower gears but hit 8th and it just stops pulling and i have to go back to 7th.If climbing a hill hauling 30 tons it will fall to 30 mph.I put it in the shop, they changed charge air cooler, exaust manifold bolt's,, one was broke all new hoses and clamps,lift pump,checked all EUP's and selinoid's,checked turbo has 35 psi boost.Finally after 4 weeks they called and said they had done all they could do , charged me $5,000 and sent me on my way.Still no power so i took it to another shop where i know the mechanic but they are a volvo dealer and not authorized to work on mack so no computer access but he is good and done what he could w/ a borrowed lap top.He said he checked all the obvious things and changed ALL the sensors.Still no power so i put a new ECM on it,still no power During this time I'm not working and spending money /5 weeks. So i parked it and went and bought a peterbilt w/ a 410 caterpillar but still have the mack just sitting in the yard costing $950 a month any heip will be greatly APPRECIATED...

A little more info please! does the engine smoke black under pulling conditions ? Does the pyro climb in excess? What kind of boost does it make pulling.If you have no smoke then Did anyone think to check the fuel preasure ya need 60 psi or better.

It sounds kind of like the clutch may have worn into the splines on the input shaft. I have seen that happen before on Eatons with the same result, but they were hard to shift at all times, not just when warmed up. Here is a link to the Roadranger hardshifting diagnostic flowchart: http://www.roadrange...FILE&dID=276861

Sounds to me you need to have the clutch replaced as Rhasler said splines or the plate springs are falling to bits inside or its simple worn out , by the sound of things it dosent owe you much!Clutch brakes usually don't fail unless there being abused IE : clutch pushed to the floor while rolling in gear , or the clutch haning up inside!

It has been pointed out to me that my 1988 R688T smokes a bit more than is considered proper.

I rally don't even know where to begin, to be honest. This is not the first diesel i have owned, but i have never run into an issue like this before, so I am at a loss as to how to proceed.

This is not smoking like a stack at a coal plant, but it is visible coming out of the pipe. The engine starts right up, has plenty of power, and doesn't hesitate.

Thanx.

As stated we will be better able to help you out if you give us more details smoke color being the most important change out the air cleaner for starters if you havent done so already are you using oil ? do you have exsesive bloby? You may have boost leaks!

fjh i did that and the outer drum has notches on the front on a locker setup and the power divider setup dose not. the early rears had course splines later had fine on the pinion so you would have to get the right one. Ron

Correct, there is there is also diffrences in the pinion housing depth so you have to be working with the same ratio.

I thought about going a mechanical E7 but have been told they are pretty rare to come by in oz,. Did you use your original mounts or do you use E7 mounts on a E7.

Yes if the engine your replacing has a e6 4 valve engine with the aluminum front cover it's a bolt in fit.

Mike,

It was a rod bearing and not a main, and you are trying to get by as cheap as possible, I would say your block is OK for now. The rod is more than likely trashed, The thing to look for is why she spun. There's usualy a few things that can take out a bearing, antifreeze contamination, lack of lube, or cavitation. Check the other bearings and see if the brass is shown, could be that the bearing was starved of oil because the oil clearance was to great causing the oil to leak out of the gap between the crank and rod bearing. Cavitation will look like little craters in the rod bearing surface, with the displaced metal imbeded into the lead of rest of the bearing. This is the final stages before the bearing fails. You will see this on the other bearings in the engine. This is caused by excessive oil clearance. Contamination will look like the bearing metal is flaking off. I guess the min. work would be to pull the head, remove the damaged rod/piston assy, replace rod, remove crank and have it machined and check the condition of all the other bearings, check the condition of the oil pump and reassemble. As much as that would cost I think it would be good sence to remove the engine, re ring, and check it all out. You really don't know much about the truck at this point. I would hate to see someone throw good money at a totally worn out engine.

b61fred

Which bearing failed #1 And Number 8 the rod can be removed from the bottom with out disturbing the heads! pull the crank and have it checked and ground 20 under get 20 over bearings and your good to go as long as you can varifiy you have no leaky liners! Have done this a few times.

G'day to all, my 84 R688RST could use an overhaul on the engine and transmission, It is still working everyday doing tipper and truck and dog work but the engine is breathing heavy and leaving a few drops of oil from the breather and the transmission makes a very loud whining noise on a hard pull up hill, so loud that you cant here the turbo or engine over it and is getting hard to shift into the 5th gear position without grinding a tiny bit unless you double clutch it in which it goes in no drama,every other gear goes in fine without clutching. It is currently an E6 350 econodyne with a t2070 12 speed and it still runs and pulls really well but i am worried one day something may go bang.

So i am thinking about buying a complete ch/chr from the 90's with a 400+ E7 and 18 speed from the damaged/salvage auctions and fitting it all up in the r model , i figure i will save a fair bit of money going this way and improving the perfomance of the truck going this way rather than rebuilding the current setup, i may even get a little bit back by selling off what i dont use as well as the current engine and trans still running.

The only thing i am concerned about is will it fit without too much mucking around and how complicated is the computer setup on a ch/chr as in will it require every single sensor and instrument from the donor to work. If anyone out there has done this before or has knowledge or worked on these models before I welcome your opinions and advice,thanks.

I just installed and E7 400 Mechanical into an 84 rd fit like a glove!The mechanical engine were produced till 94 or so thou 350 300 hp were there limitations!

I would seach out one of these before going electronic! Much easier install!

In answer to your capacity question If the axle ends are pointy you have 44000 lbs diffs if the ends are flat you have 38000 lbs diffs the 38000 will be a welded housing the 44000 will be a cast housing reguardless of the axle flange.

As for this > can i just buy any used rear end and pull out the power divider and air locker and just slap it into place ?Yes! by all means buy a used one.