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They both apear to be the same. Is the procedure for checking valve timing on an E-Tech engine the same as a E7 mechanical(I have a 1989 E7 maual). I would think that it would at least try to start if the timing was off. It won't even try to start on its own but it will run good off ether(as much as I hate using ether). I thought that maybe the injectors were plugged but I wouldn't think that all 6 of them would be.

If It ran on ether The cam or valve set are likly out the window!Sothings going on here that the ecu dosent see as a problem!

Lines are supposed to be one time use due to the possibility of leaks, but I wouldn't worry too much about that until it was running. The way Mack says to bleed the lines is to snug them all up, pump the primer until pressure builds, loosen and unseat the lines from the pump end of the line, starting at #6 and working forward. So after primiing the system, #6 would be loosened at the pump and raised slightly until solid fuel comes out, then the line would be reseated, the primer pumped up again, and the procedure repeated on #5, and so on.

Bleed em at the head ! The (Mack way is for normal situations) you have an abnormal situation . Crack the fuel line at the head at least two if not all the cyls get solid fuel there as per rhaslers instruction ,then you know for sure where your at !Also I'm sceptical of the valve set ( IF YOU had the cam out) you said you could not find info on the set? The valve set marks are on the fly wheel, set the engine on one of the marks and check for valves rocking on one of the cyls and then check the set on the other.We Don't even know if the cam is in time at this point as you have been thrown into the middle of things here! Was the cam out ? Another WARNING For you If this engine has droped a valve, I Would be Taking a serious look at the Lifters on that cyl If it has Ceramic lifters You may be doing a cam sortly if you do get it running. Just my opinion!

Tryed that and still won't start, doesn't even smoke. I took the elbow out of the block for the fuel return and the check valve in it was ceased so I got it working and put it back together and still won't start.

When I had the return line elbow out of the block I pumped the hand primer and had fuel coming out the return. Is that normal? I don't have any fuel coming out of the small return line or in the fuel bridge between the heads.I also switched fuel pumps with a truck that was running fine.

[/quote

]Did you bleed the fuel lines to the head ?Some times they can be ornery ! pump the primer with lines loose till ya get fuel at least two cylinders and crank the engine right away! Try that and see what happens!Seems to me with either or one of the to position sencors unpluged it should have had an active code! if so then the ecu is awhere of its suroundings!

Try the fuel bleed thing just for kicks!

I'm replacing the head gaskets on the old E9 and upon inspection of the heads there is a lot of black sludge around the intake valves. Looks like it could be leaking oil from around the valve stems or unburnt diesel or a mixture of both. These heads have 500K since they were rebuilt. Is this just an E9 problem or do the 6's do this too? Should I just put new valve seals in, take them to a machine shop for another rebuild (big dollars) or just clean em up reinstall and keep going. I've had no trouble out of this engine and I sure don't want any.

Its a hard call !If you don't want to spend the bucks then clean em up and move on! V8 heads had a tendency to drop valve seats WITH OUT WARNING it would happen like this, shut the engine down for the day , start the engine in the morning and it would be banging. The point is you need to scrutenize the valve seats when you have em apart wether your rebiulding or just patchin look at em close ! Either way the heads will serve ya best by looking at the seats,

Hello All..

I seem to be having and engine "hard start problem". It's a 1987 Mack superliner with 350 in it. (E6 or E7) can't remember.

The engine is completely rebuilt with less than 100 miles on it (rebuilt heads,turbo and injectors too). The only thing that I did not rebuild is the pump.

So anyway here's the problem. If I let the truck sit for a few days it takes a lot of cranking to get it started. Usually kills my battery's and turns into a long process after that since I have to charge them back up and keep cranking.

But when It starts she runs like a champ. And I can turn it on and off all day and it will fire up immediately. In the summer if I would run the truck every day it would start pretty quick too.

The problem seem s to be when I let it sit for a long time. I personally think that somehow the fuel must be draining back into the tank. And that's why I have to crank it so much so I can fill the lines again. Is this possible?

Also on the injector pump, a couple of the fuel lines that go in to the pump appear to be leaking.(not bad but its leaking. I can see the stain) I might have to replace them because I believe they are already threaded all the way in. could this be it?

Could it be that the fuel filters are plugged? I never changed those either. (long story). I bought this truck as a project and never even got to use it. Since the economy hit me pretty hard.

It's been sitting for 3 years now and I'm ready to finish her up now and put it to work but first I have to fix that problem before I go ahead and put new battery's in it.

Do you think my pump need to be rebuilt? When its running it seem s to running great. Thanks in advance and sorry for the long story.

Go after them damp spots first see if that repairs the problem Check the plastic line between the pump and the head and the jumper between the heads!

Also the valve that the plastic line goes to, take the end off of that and check to make sure the spring is not broken.

The light comes on every now and then, is the injector sensor serviceable? is the injector 3 maybe clogged?

Thank you for any reply

Ron

You have a unit pump that is starting to get glitchy just run it till it starts getting trouble some,this can go on for months / years If it becomes to frequent then do somthing with it!

Yes its servicable but you need to have the Cal code installed at the dealer ,Also note! If I were you I would take the covers off the unit pumps and check all the bolts for tighness, I did one yesterday (Pump three ) the bolt on one side was about to break ,when I went to remove the pump the bolt broke off and the other was loose This May be the cause of or just a symptom of your problem.

It's a Spicer 6041

I'd have to agree that a COE shifter might be a bit bulky to mount anywhere and get the linkage back to aux. tranny. Not alot of room under cab and a crossmember directly behind it that I need to work around. I understand how they work and what would need to be done, but not enough room.

I've had thoughts of building a block. Thick plate with two maybe 3/4" square sliding rods that are actuated by a shift handle(with a ball riding in slots on the squares). I realize it really isn't rocket science but sure would be easier to just buy it then make it right now. Got too many projects right now to add to the mess of putting one together. I have the technology, just not the time and energy. You know, LOL!!

I Agree with Rob just build it its just a hobby truck correct?

The MH shifter transfers the two dimentional movement of the stick to a single rod with a u joint on each end. The rod twist and push/pulls. You would need to fab a conection at the trans so the twist would alternate the push/pull action between the two shift rods. Call me at 919-932-3344 if I can help.

The MH set up is lkly to bulky to what he's doing bro!

Train can you post a picture of the A box!???

Besides, most (or at least quite a bit) of the bolt on crap is made by Cummins. I only see that volvo chooses to use it in a less than desirable manner.

DITO

Yup they send the shit to mack and keep the good stuff for them selves! Oh did I say that ? OOPS

Tis a Cummins plot.Take out the competion make em eat shit!

All of the US truck manufacturers except Daimler and Mack offer Cummins Diesel engines. Why not Mack? Get your head out of your backside volvo.

James there aint a whole bunch wrong with the MP engine.AGAIN as with the cummins and the rest Its the bolt on crap that is causing the most grief with all the engines for the most part.

The Mp 10 produces ample power easily compared to an ISX! The guys around here that are running them and the isx side by side and and say the cummins gets left behind on the hills!

Why would you want to by a Cummins ! Its Takin me three years to say this I am a Doubting Tom type guy ,But do beleive these to be Decent power plant for a Mack truck we just need to get the rest of the truck back up to snuff

Thanx mike that helps loads I will likly be puting the pump back on this week That cold set is just the ticket I can set the valves after the pump is on!I have spoted the engine on 25 and marked the housing in hopes of keeping it in the same spot!The pump is a standyne / rosamaster pump You can tweak the pump on the fly with these I believe But hope to have preserved the original set!I'll run it thru a valve set before I start it as I beleive part of its problem is there is no valve lash! Hopefully there are no burnt valves!

Well boys Finally got the machine back to do the re install of the pump its all together and she runs like a champ I set the valves at 17 or so and timing at 25 and she lit right up. The customer is totally happy with the job.Thanks for all the tips ! Apparently the timing advances to 8 degrees after starting so that would put the engine right in that 34 range you spoke of, Mike!

I ripped up the carpet in the superliner tonite, getting it ready to put factory rubber floor down. Having never done a clutch or tranny in a RW, it doesnt look like the floor needs to come up to get at the bell housing bolts, like it does in a RB? to me there is more than enough room to go from underneath or from engine bay? Ive only ever pulled trannys out of RB's, and they are a pain in the ass! SO... my question is, does the floor have to come up in a RW to pull the tranny? B0bo

Yup it can be done no problem you just unbolt the stick and remove the air lines from the low range cyl if its a twelve speed BUT there a usually some clamps holding wires and the air compressor line thou and they are usually a pain to get to with out the floor up!

hey did this work on your truck, i bought a 2004 mack cx 613 a month ago and atifreeze just started coming out of the exhaust,

thanks jeff

Just a note for you guys one of the trucks that had the block plate started using coolant again we ended up plugging off the coolant to the cooler as well .So point being here the heating and cooling cycles of exhaust gas is only part of the equation when dealing with egr cooler leakage if you want a complete reprieve from any leaks you need to plug off the coolant passages as well.

As I stated in an above post, the FMI was 2 and 11 on seperate times. The dealer ended up fixing it without an active code. I had the first go around as stated above with the dealer. The very next day it threw the code again, but before we could get it to the dealer the lighting bolt went out and in return it was no longer an "active code" though it was stored in the "inactive codes". After having a nice discussion with the dealer that "APPERENTALLY THERES A PROBLEM" it fianlly got fixed. We get good service from our dealer both in the service and parts department. And I understand there are certian procedures they have to go through on this warranty stuff. I just think this is were Mack could maybe step up and be a little better to customers. As stated before in another topic, every manufacture has there flaws, it's how they get taken care of with the least amount of bullcrap determines how happy the customer stays.

Since the swede's took over the whole customer service thing has gone out the window!I have to pause and think Do they treat there Volvo customers the same way???

Or is it just the Mack side of the company? They wanted all of you Mack guys as customers but don't want to build mack trucks the way they need to be built ( MACK Tough)

These Guys are actually worse than dealing with Cummins!

You can also take note that that dealer that took the bull by the horns and repaired the problem Will likely not be payed for his efforts by the warranty people as they didn't follow proper proceed-er.

same here, always sent the heads out to have this done...well, worse case scenario I'll put it all back together and if for some reason the heads gotta come off, atleast its only the front head!

I think you'll be fine with the drift idea they have J tools for everything It don't mean we use em all!Theres a special tool for setting dynatard engine brakes I used it once and never again! Most things arent magic on these things as much as they would like to baffle you with BS !The new riggs are a diffrent story thou you can't really do anything with out a puter!

Also check load housing for cracks were the carrier seals to housing.

What Glen speaks of is important here ! Check closely for cracks around the 9 to 12 oclock area (facing forward) on the mating surface of the diff housing! Clean it up good then run a torch over the surface and look for oil bleeding up from cracks.

Pretty much what I have, I would have to assume that the sleeve bottoms out in the head just by the way it looked when the injector came out...the injector was bottomed out on the sleeve. I'll more than likely use a brass puch and drive it in slowly...hopefully it will work

The sleeve bottoms in the head!In stall it with a little red locktight! Slather the injector with LOTS of neversease on install! And make sure the copper washer came up with old injecto, If not ya need to get it outa there!

where can I get information about mack trucks that tells me what engines are the good and bad. As far as engine serial numbers and what can be done to engines to pep them up.

YOUR THERE Already!

I have a older mack with a 4v engine going to set valves on it , i have 3 or 4 older mack manuals in every one it shows the exhaust rocker for jake and non jake engines requires a special tool with a 1-1/8 socket and big flat blade inside it , where do you get that tool or is there an alternative tool?? or way?? Thanks

Simply use a 1 1/8 boxed end wrench and a screw driver OR your thumb to push and turn till snug on a 24 thou feeler and retighten and recheck after tight!

Hi Fred - Does your motor have a Bosch or Rotary Roosa-Master Pump and Fuel system, or the in-line Pump. I found the timing is totally different when I had to change one over.They seem to vary from 30deg to 34deg BTDC, depending which pump and what machine they are on. If it is on a Generator on constant revs it may be different to a front end loader. My book has a cold tappet setting of 18thou and a hot set of 15thou. Regards - Michael.

Thanx mike that helps loads I will likly be puting the pump back on this week That cold set is just the ticket I can set the valves after the pump is on!I have spoted the engine on 25 and marked the housing in hopes of keeping it in the same spot!The pump is a standyne / rosamaster pump You can tweak the pump on the fly with these I beleive But hope to have preserved the original set!I'll run it thru a valve set before I start it as I beleive part of its problem is there is no valve lash! Hopfully there are no burnt valves!

Was looking through some old trucking magazines this morning,came across some pictures of this 360 series Brockway,with a pretty nice hood ornament! they sure don't make em' like this anymore! Re-reading some of these old articles,OVERDRIVE was really good to both Mack and Brockway,calling the new (then) 360 "the most rugged truck in the world" of course seeing a good looking woman with a truck is'nt "politically correct" anymore,but i thought you guys might get a kick out of seeing some "old school" pictures.....................Mark

Gee I wonder where that bolt came from on the tire? :pat:

Usually the "O" rings in the engine oil cooler are leaking internally. Easy to repair in an afternoon.

Rob

Rob it may have a plate type cooler Not quite as simple as an oring job but almost! Would be guessing at the cooler as the failed part thou!

FP Diesel (Federal Mogul) has a pretty extensive line of parts for Allis Chalmers. Here's the link to the catalog: http://www.fme-cat.c..._Kits/index.htm. I'm sure I had seen somewhere on one of the aftermarket parts places websites that they had several specifications listed, but haven't been able to find it. Wait...think I just did. Try here: http://www.tractorda...d21-engine.html

You da man

http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/1/7/176-allis-chalmers-d21-engine.html

Now all I need it the injection timing and that aint no big deal I can wing that if I have too!If I couldn't find nothing I was going to set the valves @ 10 just cause I'd rather have something rather than nothing!

Pump Should be coming back Tuesday!

Cool

Thanx Bro!

Fred:

Would that engine be the 426 c.i., turbocharged 175 HP unit? If so, I might suggest that you contact Bill Johnson, The Executive Director at the ATHS. His email address is bill@aths.org.

Best regards,

John

Thanx John

Quite possible

The engine is not in a truck or tractor, its in a Genset, I'm not sure of its HP but your description looks close ,6 Cyl turbocharged ,I got chucked in the middle of the job cause the younger ones only now the computerized things,Anyway while removing the valve cover to verify just where the engine was in its cycle I noticed that the valves are very tight And would like to verify the proper set on these before I reinstall the lid as the parts are extremely hard to buy for this thing we had to buy a whole engine rebuild kit to get a valve cover gasket for it.

As my topic suggests I'm looking for valve set specs for this engine !

I am currently working on this engine and have determined it needs a valve set as it has no valve lash to speak of at the moment.

I have the fuel pump off as well at the moment being, rebuilt It would be nice to get the timing number on this unit as well, if there is anyone here on the site with some specs on this

I really would like to hear from ya When I removed the pump I set the engine on 25 deg btc and the drive key was at 12 oclock when the drive gear was removed!

Thanx!

Fred