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As I stated in an above post, the FMI was 2 and 11 on seperate times. The dealer ended up fixing it without an active code. I had the first go around as stated above with the dealer. The very next day it threw the code again, but before we could get it to the dealer the lighting bolt went out and in return it was no longer an "active code" though it was stored in the "inactive codes". After having a nice discussion with the dealer that "APPERENTALLY THERES A PROBLEM" it fianlly got fixed. We get good service from our dealer both in the service and parts department. And I understand there are certian procedures they have to go through on this warranty stuff. I just think this is were Mack could maybe step up and be a little better to customers. As stated before in another topic, every manufacture has there flaws, it's how they get taken care of with the least amount of bullcrap determines how happy the customer stays.

Since the swede's took over the whole customer service thing has gone out the window!I have to pause and think Do they treat there Volvo customers the same way???

Or is it just the Mack side of the company? They wanted all of you Mack guys as customers but don't want to build mack trucks the way they need to be built ( MACK Tough)

These Guys are actually worse than dealing with Cummins!

You can also take note that that dealer that took the bull by the horns and repaired the problem Will likely not be payed for his efforts by the warranty people as they didn't follow proper proceed-er.

same here, always sent the heads out to have this done...well, worse case scenario I'll put it all back together and if for some reason the heads gotta come off, atleast its only the front head!

I think you'll be fine with the drift idea they have J tools for everything It don't mean we use em all!Theres a special tool for setting dynatard engine brakes I used it once and never again! Most things arent magic on these things as much as they would like to baffle you with BS !The new riggs are a diffrent story thou you can't really do anything with out a puter!

Also check load housing for cracks were the carrier seals to housing.

What Glen speaks of is important here ! Check closely for cracks around the 9 to 12 oclock area (facing forward) on the mating surface of the diff housing! Clean it up good then run a torch over the surface and look for oil bleeding up from cracks.

Pretty much what I have, I would have to assume that the sleeve bottoms out in the head just by the way it looked when the injector came out...the injector was bottomed out on the sleeve. I'll more than likely use a brass puch and drive it in slowly...hopefully it will work

The sleeve bottoms in the head!In stall it with a little red locktight! Slather the injector with LOTS of neversease on install! And make sure the copper washer came up with old injecto, If not ya need to get it outa there!

where can I get information about mack trucks that tells me what engines are the good and bad. As far as engine serial numbers and what can be done to engines to pep them up.

YOUR THERE Already!

I have a older mack with a 4v engine going to set valves on it , i have 3 or 4 older mack manuals in every one it shows the exhaust rocker for jake and non jake engines requires a special tool with a 1-1/8 socket and big flat blade inside it , where do you get that tool or is there an alternative tool?? or way?? Thanks

Simply use a 1 1/8 boxed end wrench and a screw driver OR your thumb to push and turn till snug on a 24 thou feeler and retighten and recheck after tight!

Hi Fred - Does your motor have a Bosch or Rotary Roosa-Master Pump and Fuel system, or the in-line Pump. I found the timing is totally different when I had to change one over.They seem to vary from 30deg to 34deg BTDC, depending which pump and what machine they are on. If it is on a Generator on constant revs it may be different to a front end loader. My book has a cold tappet setting of 18thou and a hot set of 15thou. Regards - Michael.

Thanx mike that helps loads I will likly be puting the pump back on this week That cold set is just the ticket I can set the valves after the pump is on!I have spoted the engine on 25 and marked the housing in hopes of keeping it in the same spot!The pump is a standyne / rosamaster pump You can tweak the pump on the fly with these I beleive But hope to have preserved the original set!I'll run it thru a valve set before I start it as I beleive part of its problem is there is no valve lash! Hopfully there are no burnt valves!

Was looking through some old trucking magazines this morning,came across some pictures of this 360 series Brockway,with a pretty nice hood ornament! they sure don't make em' like this anymore! Re-reading some of these old articles,OVERDRIVE was really good to both Mack and Brockway,calling the new (then) 360 "the most rugged truck in the world" of course seeing a good looking woman with a truck is'nt "politically correct" anymore,but i thought you guys might get a kick out of seeing some "old school" pictures.....................Mark

Gee I wonder where that bolt came from on the tire? :pat:

Usually the "O" rings in the engine oil cooler are leaking internally. Easy to repair in an afternoon.

Rob

Rob it may have a plate type cooler Not quite as simple as an oring job but almost! Would be guessing at the cooler as the failed part thou!

FP Diesel (Federal Mogul) has a pretty extensive line of parts for Allis Chalmers. Here's the link to the catalog: http://www.fme-cat.c..._Kits/index.htm. I'm sure I had seen somewhere on one of the aftermarket parts places websites that they had several specifications listed, but haven't been able to find it. Wait...think I just did. Try here: http://www.tractorda...d21-engine.html

You da man

http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/1/7/176-allis-chalmers-d21-engine.html

Now all I need it the injection timing and that aint no big deal I can wing that if I have too!If I couldn't find nothing I was going to set the valves @ 10 just cause I'd rather have something rather than nothing!

Pump Should be coming back Tuesday!

Cool

Thanx Bro!

Fred:

Would that engine be the 426 c.i., turbocharged 175 HP unit? If so, I might suggest that you contact Bill Johnson, The Executive Director at the ATHS. His email address is bill@aths.org.

Best regards,

John

Thanx John

Quite possible

The engine is not in a truck or tractor, its in a Genset, I'm not sure of its HP but your description looks close ,6 Cyl turbocharged ,I got chucked in the middle of the job cause the younger ones only now the computerized things,Anyway while removing the valve cover to verify just where the engine was in its cycle I noticed that the valves are very tight And would like to verify the proper set on these before I reinstall the lid as the parts are extremely hard to buy for this thing we had to buy a whole engine rebuild kit to get a valve cover gasket for it.

As my topic suggests I'm looking for valve set specs for this engine !

I am currently working on this engine and have determined it needs a valve set as it has no valve lash to speak of at the moment.

I have the fuel pump off as well at the moment being, rebuilt It would be nice to get the timing number on this unit as well, if there is anyone here on the site with some specs on this

I really would like to hear from ya When I removed the pump I set the engine on 25 deg btc and the drive key was at 12 oclock when the drive gear was removed!

Thanx!

Fred

Forget messing with Mack, go to a real turbo shop and have them make you one up. We use United Fuel and Turbo in Birmingham Alabama.

Amen!

31 psi out of a truck that old is hoggwash!We had (stock units) of that era cranking 40 psi! these wore all mack drivline and were allowed the XT data file at the time! Likly nowhere to be found now!

Had to change the camshaft on our E-7 460 due to wear on a couple of lobes . The unit pumps were removed to allow removal of the camshaft .

My understanding was that when the fuel lines are removed they are to be replaced with NEW lines and the old ones discarded .The shop foreman tells me that the old lines can be reused yet another Mack dealer in Edmonton told me that the lines are to be one time use only due to the 20,000 psi that the fuel system runs at .

After bringing our truck home I found fuel sweating on the 4 lines that were reused and the 2 new ones installed have no issues .

What is your opinion and what is the correct procedure in this situation ? I think I'll be arguing this issue for sometime with the dealership that done the work and hopefully get this fixed properly. Thanks .

If Your engine is an EGR engine By all means replace the lines! Its actually the law in Mack land! You can sumtimes get away with it But Its not worth the chance .

thanx for the info hopefully the 1850 will do it i will get that info from u if it doesnt work

OK Men we got the 1850 in there and havent heard from the Rodent Man So I'm Hopen we put this issue to bed!

This Was yet another lesson in reman clutches for our parts guys which they likley will NOT learn from!

I have a 1988 Mack Mr600 with an E6 engine. The bolts holding the harmonic Balancer broke off. What would cause this, and what are the torque requirements for the the new bolts when I install the new Harmonic Balancer.

I don't remember the specs for that but I would guess somwhere in the hood of 50 foot pounds they are 7/16 bolts! DON'T REUSE that damper REPLACE IT if that came loose out of the blue somthing is wrong and its likly the damper its self!

Hi Ellis, Are you getting any oil in your air tanks, it does sound slow but the govneror may be playing up, holding the unloader valve open or the unloader maybe leaking Gearbox

DOT Requirment here in canada is 60-90 psi in 3 minutes!As far as I am concerned even that is to slow.

Hi Ellis, Are you getting any oil in your air tanks, it does sound slow but the govneror may be playing up, holding the unloader valve open or the unloader maybe leaking Gearbox

DOT Requirment here in canada is 60-90 psi in 3 minutes!As far as I am concerned even that is to slow.

she finished radiation treatment last friday, go to doctor in 30 days to see if it helped.

holly cow i didnt know someone could be that sick.

Well I hope Christmas brings Her A huge Present! And you both can move on in a more pleasant manner Bro!

I 'm sure GB is Just Truckin.

Check the air compressor air intake tube that run around the back of the engine to the back of the intake manifold, the short rubber hose could have blown off, it happened to me.

Hey 68 He, mentioned he had no black smoke I was thinkin a fuel input issue!

Do you have any intermitant or consistant Codes??

Have already replaced the supply pump, changed filters, etc. now wondering if there might be a short somewhere, if you have any more ideas let me know, i'm about to give up on these mack trucks.

what trans do you have? If it Is a Mack trans check to see the torque limit is un pluged that will cut your boost in half instantly.

Check plastic gear on fuel supply pump. See already were the truck half runs, but there is an issue with the supply pump.

WHAT HE SAID!

got a v pump? if so back of the pump in the bowl their is a copper contact probably stuffed.

The most common failure on these is the fuel pump switch or the above mentioned tab on older models! On The switch style one the cable is ussually what causes the problem

You may have to add and extra spring to the lever.

Have a CH 613 in the shop for engine work . Asked to have the air to air system pressure tested .

Tested at an 8 psi drop in pressure in 15 seconds at initial 30 PSI charge . Specs call for a 5 PSI drop in 15 sec . Shop foreman said leave it till it gets worse ,at least 15 psi loss . What are your thoughts, leave it alone or change it to a Duralite core ? Would certainly appreciate your comments . Thanks !

I agree , Hes givin ya straight goods,If Ya got the money DO as as hes says duratlite If not, don't waste the money that is not a a bad leak It really has to be a gusher before it will affect performance!

One of our guys was driving this truck today when the engine shuts off. The heater and guages were still on. He said it started up again with no trouble. Happened 4 times. Anybody else have a problem like this or have an idea what may cause it? I wondered if it could be the fuel shut off solonoid?

If Your truck still hass the inline fuel pump on it!I would suspect the fuel pump pins first off !Try unpluging and replugging the fuel pump plug a couple of times and see if this changes your situation!It can possibly be the fuel pump itself but try this first!