fjh

I replaced my turbo on my V-8 with a custom built one from Dale Francis, building 50 pounds of boost. Talk about power. Anyway, when I pulled the air tubes off, there is oil covering the inside of the tube on the hot side only, nothing on the cold side. I am concerned on oil inside the cooler restricting the cooling of air. I thought about pulling the cooler and flushing it with fuel oil to clean the inside. Should I or is it a waste of time. Any thoughts.

I would ask the question Why? What model is the truck !CL? RW? MH? So having said that if the truck is a RW I would highly recommend putting 2 air cleaners on it if it is a CL I would find a bigger air cleaner and put it on it! With a turbo moving that much air the air restriction will likley be real high even with a clean air cleaner!

I have seen the elbow at the turbo become sucked flat with a semi cloged air cleaner and stall the engine momentarily( with engines that have been tweaked Fuel wise).RW with under the hood air cleaners and CL models are subject to this condition.

What I am getting at is air restriction may be causing the oil weep in the first place.

For many years at work we had a over head lub system to add oil and grease to trucks. We i finished a engine i would leave the turbo suppy oil line off and connect it to the oil gun from over head and pump 10 gals of oil into the engine thru the turbo oil hose back to the engine. Tuen the engibe a few times as its pumping oil in to the engine and you see how much easy it turns when it gets oil.I have fitting made up for all engines.

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We have made due for years with just cranking on the starter till ya got it showing on the gauge then push the stop in! Charge the Battery's Bro and get atter.

coming out of utah east on hwy 80, not to heavy about 70,000

noticed i was down on power.

oil temp 225

boost around 23 psi, sometimes 25

hills i usually pull 40 mph in 10th gear, im pulling 30 mph in 8th

no matter how hard i tried, i could not get oil temp to come down

taking my time, trying to get to ky.

stayed in big springs,ne.

next 375 miles were flat and i was saving fuel, so i didnt notice anything wrong.

stopped rite at mo.state line, truck was ideling so rough i was thinking tow.

i was thinking camshaft????? then it cleared up a little.

i took off south on hwy 29 rollercoaster, run up to 68 mph and hit cruse, it was pulling like it should

oil temp 200

boost 33 psi

with the cruse off or on it ran perfectly.......????????????!!!!!!!!!!pullin like it was pissed off

Chuck!

Did it throw any codes?

If not the egr valve can cause stuff like that with no codes

Also the VGT can stick !Usually with a code thou.

Try lubing the little lever on the turbo with some Penetrating oil see if that helps!

Next time your by the shop have 68 stroke out the turbo to make sure its calibrated or holding it's calibration.

Hey! Do you have access or something?? LOL!

No, the corporate and dealer forum is just a place for dealers to network with each other and the occasional Mack/Volvo reps. All the good stuff still gets posted in the regular forums!

Yup we swap Fixes and stuff Makes us look like wizards to the mortals!

Unfortunately

looks can be deceiving.

I have a 1998 RD688S with an E7400, It wouldn't start, unhook the battery for five minutes then it starts. Now after changing the oil, I started it let the oil pressure build up then it shuts down, has not started since, unhooked battery, no help. I have had a new oil pressure sensor put on (the one on the top of the oil filter) before all this happened. I'm not a mechanic but wonder if these are common problems are not. I do know it is somewhat computerized because I had the top speed increased at a Mack dealer. They are too far away and I'm trying to avoid a big towing bill. Thanks.....Festus

does it crank at all? When you turn the key on does the dash lite up if not then you likely have a bad relay the accessory relay/s are generally mounted beneath the ashtray panel on top of the middle dash. Or depending on year inside the glove box panel to the left side.

Also if you have had lots of rain in your area look behind the passenger kick panel ( 4 screws) look for a smaller looking black box (Vehicle ECU) I have seen leaky windshields cause these to fail unplug the box and check the plug for green connections just some stuff to look for!

Good luck

recently rebuilt our e7-350 and had a hard time running the overhead but believe we got it right. anyway problem now is oil pressure when warm is showing >15psi at idle and jake barely makes any noise sometimes none. we did not change pump during rebuild because it checked out good. well today we went and got a 500 pump and pickup put it in and no differnce. so my question is could the overhead adjustment cause low oil pressure? or any other ideas? we checked every bearing clearance during assembly and everything was in spec.

Check the end of the rocker shafts and make sure there are plugs in the ends they tend to pop out on these engines.The valve set likly has no connection to your problem!

does anybody happen to know the torque for the flywheel bolts for my em6 285 and also i'm getting conflickting info on the head bolts and the 5/8 bolts on the mains. thank you bollweevil for the shim info, you were exactly right.

Flywheel bolts !

180

Head bolts 220

Looks like the part number for the extended bumper with center tow pin hole is 82267126, there are several other pieces to go along with the bumper. Looks like it is also available with a rock guard. I don't know if they're interchangeable either.

If you look closely at the three titans we have sold you will see the bumper has been hydro cut to open it up to expose the tow shackles on the frame! Note Click on New Mack owners.If you compare the bumpers in the pics of the sold trucks to the pic on the opening page you can see the diffrence!

http://nanaimomack.com/

The nut/cap on the bottom of the spindle does not have a torque. Tighten the nut by hand until snug, the spindle will not rotate at this point because of the load on the bearing that sits in the nut/cap, you will then back the nut off until the slots line up and the new cotter pin can be installed. After the slot is aligned make sure the spindle rotates freely. If it doesn't it indicates that the nut is too tight or that you have possibly damaged the upper bearing or (more likely) the lower bushing. The bushing should not require reaming.

MAKE SURE TO SEAT THE PIN IN THE AXLE PRIOR TO INSTALLING THE NUT/CAP.

Yup put a jack under the pin, take the weight of the truck then smoke the axle once or twice with an 8 pound or so hammer!

If you have a Mack transmission with an oil cooler

I checked this morning and there's no antifreeze in the transmission, gas tank or on the bottom of the oil pan. There is moisture in the valve covers but no signs of antifreeze in the cylinder heads. I looked up the cylinder sleeves and pressure test the block and there's no signs of leaks. I guess its the oil cooler because when i took off the Centri Max filter, it felt kind of heavy so i let it drain and noticed some little drops of antifreeze. Since the Centri Max filter housing is connected to the oil cooler, i guess that's the problem. Well, i'll see what happens when i install a new oil cooler and give it about a week to see if i still have to add antifrreze every 3 days. Many thanks guys.

Hope your right!

If that much coolant was leaking into the engine I would expect to see it in the oil. If you have a Mack transmission with an oil cooler you might want to take a look inside the transmission case (through the fill plug opening) or drain the oil from it and check for rust in the case or antifreeze mixed with the oil.

Like rhasler has said check trans if ya don't find it there, its likly leaky liners if you have sludge in the breather that is not a good sign..

Don't people spend a lot of money modifying and/or spec'ing a truck for those cozad ramps or whatever they're called? That's a good candidate right there.

Yup just pop a fifth wheel on there and you got yur self a ready made low bed tractor me thinks,

would be good to take compression before removing head. if a cylinder or valve seat is bad you'll know it before!

Loose valve seats were comon on these engines !It wouldn't hurt to pull each valve and tap on the seats with a brass drift while holding your thumb on the other side of the seat .

you can feel em vibrate if there loose!

pro star recovery unit

Kinda odd its written on the truck as well! Guess the binders wouldn't start or something that day.

In my opinion Duralite is second to none. If time and/or money is tight you might look into having your existing CAC repaired by a radiator shop.

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I second the duralite 7 year warrenty on these as appose to 1 year on the oem! And likly cheaper.

http://www.duralite.net/

In my opinion Duralite is second to none. If time and/or money is tight you might look into having your existing CAC repaired by a radiator shop.

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I second the duralite 5 year warrenty on these as appose to 1 year on the oem!

http://www.duralite.net/

In my opinion Duralite is second to none. If time and/or money is tight you might look into having your existing CAC repaired by a radiator shop.

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I second the duralite 5 year warrenty on these as appose to 1 year on the oem!

If It ran on ether The cam or valve set are likly out the window!Somethings going on here that the ecu dosent see as a problem!OR the ecu is not functioning Period!When you get in the unit turn the key to on does the check engine light come on then go off? If not then maybe there is a relay issue!

They both apear to be the same. Is the procedure for checking valve timing on an E-Tech engine the same as a E7 mechanical(I have a 1989 E7 maual). I would think that it would at least try to start if the timing was off. It won't even try to start on its own but it will run good off ether(as much as I hate using ether). I thought that maybe the injectors were plugged but I wouldn't think that all 6 of them would be.

If It ran on ether The cam or valve set are likly out the window!Sothings going on here that the ecu dosent see as a problem!

Lines are supposed to be one time use due to the possibility of leaks, but I wouldn't worry too much about that until it was running. The way Mack says to bleed the lines is to snug them all up, pump the primer until pressure builds, loosen and unseat the lines from the pump end of the line, starting at #6 and working forward. So after primiing the system, #6 would be loosened at the pump and raised slightly until solid fuel comes out, then the line would be reseated, the primer pumped up again, and the procedure repeated on #5, and so on.

Bleed em at the head ! The (Mack way is for normal situations) you have an abnormal situation . Crack the fuel line at the head at least two if not all the cyls get solid fuel there as per rhaslers instruction ,then you know for sure where your at !Also I'm sceptical of the valve set ( IF YOU had the cam out) you said you could not find info on the set? The valve set marks are on the fly wheel, set the engine on one of the marks and check for valves rocking on one of the cyls and then check the set on the other.We Don't even know if the cam is in time at this point as you have been thrown into the middle of things here! Was the cam out ? Another WARNING For you If this engine has droped a valve, I Would be Taking a serious look at the Lifters on that cyl If it has Ceramic lifters You may be doing a cam sortly if you do get it running. Just my opinion!

Tryed that and still won't start, doesn't even smoke. I took the elbow out of the block for the fuel return and the check valve in it was ceased so I got it working and put it back together and still won't start.

When I had the return line elbow out of the block I pumped the hand primer and had fuel coming out the return. Is that normal? I don't have any fuel coming out of the small return line or in the fuel bridge between the heads.I also switched fuel pumps with a truck that was running fine.

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]Did you bleed the fuel lines to the head ?Some times they can be ornery ! pump the primer with lines loose till ya get fuel at least two cylinders and crank the engine right away! Try that and see what happens!Seems to me with either or one of the to position sencors unpluged it should have had an active code! if so then the ecu is awhere of its suroundings!

Try the fuel bleed thing just for kicks!

I'm replacing the head gaskets on the old E9 and upon inspection of the heads there is a lot of black sludge around the intake valves. Looks like it could be leaking oil from around the valve stems or unburnt diesel or a mixture of both. These heads have 500K since they were rebuilt. Is this just an E9 problem or do the 6's do this too? Should I just put new valve seals in, take them to a machine shop for another rebuild (big dollars) or just clean em up reinstall and keep going. I've had no trouble out of this engine and I sure don't want any.

Its a hard call !If you don't want to spend the bucks then clean em up and move on! V8 heads had a tendency to drop valve seats WITH OUT WARNING it would happen like this, shut the engine down for the day , start the engine in the morning and it would be banging. The point is you need to scrutenize the valve seats when you have em apart wether your rebiulding or just patchin look at em close ! Either way the heads will serve ya best by looking at the seats,

Hello All..

I seem to be having and engine "hard start problem". It's a 1987 Mack superliner with 350 in it. (E6 or E7) can't remember.

The engine is completely rebuilt with less than 100 miles on it (rebuilt heads,turbo and injectors too). The only thing that I did not rebuild is the pump.

So anyway here's the problem. If I let the truck sit for a few days it takes a lot of cranking to get it started. Usually kills my battery's and turns into a long process after that since I have to charge them back up and keep cranking.

But when It starts she runs like a champ. And I can turn it on and off all day and it will fire up immediately. In the summer if I would run the truck every day it would start pretty quick too.

The problem seem s to be when I let it sit for a long time. I personally think that somehow the fuel must be draining back into the tank. And that's why I have to crank it so much so I can fill the lines again. Is this possible?

Also on the injector pump, a couple of the fuel lines that go in to the pump appear to be leaking.(not bad but its leaking. I can see the stain) I might have to replace them because I believe they are already threaded all the way in. could this be it?

Could it be that the fuel filters are plugged? I never changed those either. (long story). I bought this truck as a project and never even got to use it. Since the economy hit me pretty hard.

It's been sitting for 3 years now and I'm ready to finish her up now and put it to work but first I have to fix that problem before I go ahead and put new battery's in it.

Do you think my pump need to be rebuilt? When its running it seem s to running great. Thanks in advance and sorry for the long story.

Go after them damp spots first see if that repairs the problem Check the plastic line between the pump and the head and the jumper between the heads!

Also the valve that the plastic line goes to, take the end off of that and check to make sure the spring is not broken.

The light comes on every now and then, is the injector sensor serviceable? is the injector 3 maybe clogged?

Thank you for any reply

Ron

You have a unit pump that is starting to get glitchy just run it till it starts getting trouble some,this can go on for months / years If it becomes to frequent then do somthing with it!

Yes its servicable but you need to have the Cal code installed at the dealer ,Also note! If I were you I would take the covers off the unit pumps and check all the bolts for tighness, I did one yesterday (Pump three ) the bolt on one side was about to break ,when I went to remove the pump the bolt broke off and the other was loose This May be the cause of or just a symptom of your problem.

It's a Spicer 6041

I'd have to agree that a COE shifter might be a bit bulky to mount anywhere and get the linkage back to aux. tranny. Not alot of room under cab and a crossmember directly behind it that I need to work around. I understand how they work and what would need to be done, but not enough room.

I've had thoughts of building a block. Thick plate with two maybe 3/4" square sliding rods that are actuated by a shift handle(with a ball riding in slots on the squares). I realize it really isn't rocket science but sure would be easier to just buy it then make it right now. Got too many projects right now to add to the mess of putting one together. I have the technology, just not the time and energy. You know, LOL!!

I Agree with Rob just build it its just a hobby truck correct?