fjh

The torque limit wires would have to short together to cause this problem unpluged the unit becomes in effective.

There is a wire that goes to the torque limit swithch on an 18 speed trans it may be shorted it will cause the engine to have half the boost of normal.

it is usually routed down and around the same area as the speed sensor pu wire.U claim to have a 12 sp and not used but even so the wire will still be there check for it.

OK That works !I have one more reqest if possible can you put a forum change box with a drop down at the bottom of the pages haveing to go back to the top to switch forums has always been a pain!

Barry my only real bitch is that the sign in takes you to an new account screen I already have an account

Could you put a seperate log in button for us guys that already have accounts?

I also liked to be able to choose my own skin! Stanless is OK but in explorer the white on gray is hard to read!

In firefox its fine!

I am used to working on Detroit 60's and Mercedez's that are in Freightliners. I have never worked on a Mack. So,I unbolted the rocker assembly not realizing that it didnt need to come off. I did not mess with any of the valve adjustments. Can i just retorque the six bolts and everything be ok or do I have to reset the valve adj.Does anyone know the proper torque specs. for thr rocker assembly on the E7 400 1993. After that mistake everything else went smooth. I removed the fuel lines from the side of the head,removed the injector cover, screwed a valve cover bolt into each injector and wiggled them out. If you could help me I would greatly appreciate it.

45- 55 fp torque down chris cross in smaller increments can't hurt to set the valves on an engine that old ! 16 intake 24 exhast!

55 pounds on the injector screw Snug the screw then loosen a bit, then tighten the injection line and then retorque the screw and properly tighten the injection line.This helps aline or seat the line to the injector to prevent leaks.

Good luck

Iam replacing all 6 injectors on my mack E7 400. Its a 1993 model. The problem is that I don't known the correct way to run the rack when I am finnished. Could anyone help steer me in the right direction?

There is a small cover center bottom of the fly housing 6 bolt or 2 bolt cover depending on year remove it turn the engine in running rotation and alin the V/S Marks to the center of the peep hole and set the valves in firing order 153624. v/s 1&6 - V/s 5&2 - V/s3-4 Valves rocking on 6 set 1 valves rocking on 2 set 5 and so on!

The valve is there to retain a small amount of fuel preasure in the pump for start up! and to maintain a minimum 15 to 30 psi while running!if you have any air leaks from the heads down to the fuel pump you can end up with starting issues.

spent 4 hrs overseeing the cleanup, another free meal, allong with ass kissing.

got offered another free prem. pm. told the guy i got one of those in my truck allready, gona have to use it for ass wipping, cause you assclowns will never be close to a piece of my equipment unless you can explain the loose driveline after all the other bs

guy says i don't know what to say. i replied my point exactly.

That Bolt thing would be the icing on the cake alright, That just blows me away to think the place is still in business! Begs to question how could all that happen to just one guy?? Or Did it happen to just one Guy???

Too many of these and you would think he will have no busisness!.He made absolutly no proffit on oil or wages not to mention all the business he looses by word of mouth Bad news all round.

Hope you get it all cleaned up bud!

if it had been cooler, i would have just left at 4pm when thet hadnt started on it.

but with the heat it was very important to get my oil change before hitin them hills west of denver.

truck comes first.

Well lucky you ya got it done twice .Rinsed all that crud out of the pan!

What bummer day!

That was the first thing I tried today! I noticed the smaller(primary filtration, I believe) was only half to three quarters full when I removed it. It actually ran worse after doing that, it seemed.

My first thought and relitivly cheap and easy thing to try is repining the vmac plug at the pumpmost mack dealers have the tools for this! Next Check the plug at the fire wall under the wash bottle remove it and check for any green conections and any rubbed wiring!

Then I would say ya need to remove the pump and have the govener end looked at by a qualified pump shop! (semi common problem is the rack sensors inside the pump need replacing)!

Do the pin thing first to varifi the pin thing un plug and replug the vmac plug a half dosen times then try running the truck for a bit and see if the problem has gone! If it has then it is likly the pins causing you greif!

Also when you have the plug apart look at it and see if any of the male ends look brown and heated looking (a good sign of a poor conection)!

Just some stuff to try!

hello, i have a 85 mack superliner with a 9 spd fuller trans, 38k rears. that runs as a lowboy truck, in overdrive boost usually hangs around 29-31 psi. the truck is geared pretty high, will run about 80mph. recent senario, it was pulling a long hill with about 10 ton on it, in overdrive at around 1700rpm, boost was at 30psi, exhuast was clean no smoke, then the water temp gauge slowly creeped in the 200-210 range. now i know with the inline six engines thats getting alittle warm. but what about the e-9's? what is ok as far as running temp on a hard hill.

thanks

I've seen em go as high as 220 no problem ,not saying thats right but have seen it ! Having said that I would venture to guess the rad has not been looked at for quite some time and the fan clutch on these did fail from time to time! So if it becomes a regular occurance I'd be leaning towards the clutch fan or stat's as it has come on rather fast! Unless the shut down comes on I'd not worry to much it may be as simple as a poor gauge or sender.

Just as an update , wanted to let everyone know it turned out to be a bad bosch fuel ecm. Runs fine now , has'nt shut off since. Rich

Thanx for posting your fix!Glad ya found the problem!

Hey Guys,

I'm new here, just started driving a '98 RD688s, Mechanical E-7 350. The Jake works fine but will not stop itself at an idle. It just stalls the truck out. Is there a switch or something that could be messed up? Like I said however, other than at an idle it works fine, you can hold the switches on either the clutch or throttle and keep it running at an idle, but that gets old doing it all day long. Any thoughts would be appreciated, Thanks! Matt

On mechanical engines thats the way it is! Normal!

Drain the oil, drop the pan, remove the fuel inlet line to the cylinder block, remove the fuel system check valve from the block and plug the block off with a 16mm x 1.5 o-ring seal plug, attach pressure vessel with UV dyed fuel and pressurize the fuel gallery and look for leaks coming around the cam lobes for the injectors and/or running down the block from the area of the camshaft.

Another possible place is Injectors as I beleive that year of engine still has a spill off lin in the head ,the fuel transfer pump seal is also a possible place Eups is the top of the three suspects.

I would not try to start untill i had a mack mechanic check it out. Sounds like it has stuck a barrel and plunger while in full fuel position. It may not but if you dont know mack engines you dont want to learn on this one. Who ever starts it need a choke plat and intake off down to the metal side of the intake of the turbo.

I would check out the turbo seeif it didn't creater on the way home!

Hi everyone, hope all is well. I finally got to drive the Mack last week, the 20spd was fun but I found them all... eventually

I went to go start it today because its going down for a dyno tomorrow and it would not start and the fuel has drained back again. it has new fuel lines, the valve in the right side of pump for return line was cleaned and has new o rings. what else could it be?

thanks for your help.

Grant

Did you replace all the orings ect on the return line tubes ?

As we all know Mack parts are mostly proprietary and VIN driven. Lots of stuff has to come from the dealer.....but some parts do escape.....and can be had for a reasonable price.

I would like to open this thread as a place to put suppliers and links to parts that don't have to come from dealers.

I know this would improve my bottom line and could raise yours too.....

Bro

For Me as being an employee of a mack dealer We go out of our way to be compeditive on those type jobber parts you speak of And Im here to tell ya (some) of that stuff sold is shit.

We got into that jazz for awhile selling no name reman and other (new) parts And Me And the rest of the Guys in the service were all over the parts guys to change back to buying parts thru the Parent company!Theres at least you will get a warrenty with the stuff you buy and the quality tends to be some what better.

The jobber stuff on the other hand tends to fail more often and you get to keep both halves when it breaks.

So the next time you see somthing so cheap sumwhere you can resist remember the old saying Theres likly a good reason. Not always but some times.

Also remember part of the reason the captive parts aer so high is the fact that the consumables are being exploited by the jobber types and the dealer has to keep the doors open some how! The profit on those consuables is narrow in part due to this exploitation.So theres no place spread the pain.

Just an opinion

just wandering if fjh tried that program yet, or is every one waiting for me to be the ginnypig

whats an air comp. and this thing gona cost me.$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ or should i keep going

going to houston where i can kick some largecar butt

Nope your the pig!

You will lkly have to by a Head for the compressor the whole thing is over a grand up here! the Head is 400 500.The compressors rarly fail the heads fail a fare bit!

Thanks for the help appreciate it rhasler

Yup put the rush on that if its still under warrenty!

.... :idunno:

We use to open up All the thresholds related to rpm in the customer programing to max that is the best you can do it is pretty much imposible to get max horse power where your wanting it and have any torque to go with it !

Hi everybody

I just had a quick question about a Mack that i want to buy my husband for his bd and i thought this would be the best place to ask my question.. lol

Okay here it is:

I'm looking into getting him a 89 Mack DM with a E-6 turbo 300, "the guy wrote 300 macadie if that changes anything" can anybody tell me if these motors are any good? It's a roll off and it will be working alot so i dont really want to buy him a truck that he will always have problems with the motor or something like that you know??

Been there already with the darn 3116 Caterpillars.

Now apparently the engine and transmission were rebuilt about 100,000km ago. And i think the truck has close to 800,000km.

Thanks in advance!

The Maxidyne engine is 3 times that little Cat engine depending on its treatment the engine will be the least of your worries!

Dm is a very tough truck again depending on how its been treated will do what ever it is asked to do!

If the price is right do for it!

wish i had it now, headed east threw Co. on I70 in the am

allmost worth the extra 100 miles or so to go around.

SOOO ! Did 68 get this Data file in and did it Fix your issue????

Thanx

pull your belts and run it some.

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I'd be doing this first! nail it down first! A Metallic sound ???? Is It a churp or a scraping a rattle?

Bad lifter will make a Metallic chirping sound. Fan hub or water pump is possible. Take the belts off! and run it as Glen stated

Air fuel control diaphragm?

The LDA will repair the smoke problem to some degree but maybe not the power.

Glad ya found the problem Maybe?

Same engine used in the Ford 9000/9600 ag tractor. Valves in .015 hot, ex .018 hot, head bolts don't know.

FW

Thanx

found the head torque 160 ft pounds you gave me the lash,So I'm good to go thanks.

May get this puppy running next week!