fjh

If it has mack diffs It sounds like a power divider issue to me .Are you running un even tires between axles?

Guys the dogish nature of this engine is caused by the cam! If you go tweaking puters and the like you will just be wasting more fuel! the solution is to install the AC Cam In the AI engine The problem being it counterveens the emisson laws! all the smoke you see as you take off is unburned fuel that could have got you going but the rules had their hands tied!There are quite a few trucks in my area where we have no emisson tests and the ac cam makes the engine lift off as it should If you live in an area where you can get away with this do it! You'll never look back! But It aint cheap the job will likly cost u 3-4000 depending on where you go! but the up side is it will pay you back with the power and better fuel milage over time 1 mile to the gal is not uncommon.

84 superdog I sent ya a pm but thought others would like the info aswell!

Heres the part #nos for the auss turbo and the turbo drain line for you guys that are into it!

Barry should be able to hook you up with this stuff or any Mack dealer.

Inlet has to be modded to use this, and the charge air pipes if your installing on an engine with a V pump!

681GC334A drain tube

631GC3142AM Turbo!

Thunderdog, has your E9 had any fuel turned to it? If not a good bolt on replacement for the stock turbo is a Aussi 610 turbo. I can't rember the whole part # but I know the last four digits are 5134. I think the part # is 631GC5134. This is a good turbo for a stock 500 E9, but if your gonna turn the fuel to it or put some hot injectors in it don't run it. It will cause high pyro temps and high water temps. I know from experience.

This statment is ture !The auss turbo spools real nice on these But if your turning up the fuel you need to be watching the pyro ! Which you should be anyway! we have done a few of these here on the island and every body thats done this is very happy with the results!The bonus is the dynatard works much better as well!

And you need to remember to keep an eye on the air cleaner/s your moving lots of air!

This is not just an mp8 problem we have replaced 2 on the same mp10 and we have received one in the same condtion as the one we were replacing out of the box we refused to install it! They seem to be having issues with quality control on these hope they get this fixed soon!They make a mess of the engine compartment when they start leaking!

I'd like to know the answer to this one too!

Ron

Yup no air no stop! Makes about as much sence as having an air starter but they are out there. But In some apllications where a remote stop is needed this would be an asset .

The truck driver asked to have a easy to push clutch pedal! They provided it for you!!! Oh you wanted it to disengage the clutch???You'll have to carry and extra cable for that!

Well I predicted A multi fit Cab 5 years in! DIDN"T HAPPEN ! I Didn't like THE BIG V either , We still have our own cab ??? So I guess Its still a Mack till the cab changes! And they quit offering genuine old school components. When that happens then the thing is truely dead . Swen and Ollie will have had their way at that point! Until then its a Mack.

I have Found over the years that engineers are never satisfide they are all ways seeking ways to reinvent the wheel even if there isn't a problem ,in this case to over complicate the simple ,a simple cable worked fine so lets add an air cyl to make it more unreliable.The 18 speed trans when behind a high hp engine has an " updated" tail shaft that shaft ALWAYS comes loose Didn't come loose before the update Why did we fix it! Only they know for sure ,OR Do they? Fact of life I guess!

Check your brake light switch on the back of the maxi button brake drl it is triggered by that!

Glad it went ok for you, I personally do not like working on them things in chassis. Luckily, I rarely have to do that.

Me neather! You want a job? WE do one of these a month at our shop you can come up my way and get some more practice if you Like!!!

We have to plates you can do two at once!

good luck with it!

If you suspect the turbo take the inlet tube off and look at the wheel if it has been rubbing the housing or if you can physiclly make wheel the touch houseing the turbo is definatly suspect I have seen the adjusting nuts break if it has a jake brake but the noise would be continuous and your would have a poping sound in the intake!

judging by your coments Look for exhast leaks at manifold gaskets, There is also a vaque possiblity of a blown head gasket by your description!

Yup go easy pedal don't buy reman , Dont buy solo end of story!

to far to back up when things go fubar!

I had put a used crank and balancer

PUT A NEW BALANCER on it ! you aleady have a used one the balancer is likly the issue! the blocks rarely have issues unless the engine has been cranked up! then they tend to crack near the starter and you will find the main bolts in the pan!

I have a 1998 ch612. Engine shuts down when at full operating temp. Blink code 5-4. Prior to this Mack dealer installed rebuilt injector pump and injectors. This proplem only occurs at full temp 180 degrees or so. Gray connector seems good and tight. It takes my truck a long time to warm up. I also replaced throttle position sensor.(thottle pedal) Is there another relay, if so where? Thanks

Hey Bro Chuck some cool water on the back of the fuel pump If the engine fires back up you will need to r and r the fuel pump and have it looked at at a reputable pump shop as the rack actuator is fubar!

Also check the plug behind the washer bottle on the rh fire wall 3/16 socket takes it part see if ya got any green conections there! Seen that do some werid stuff before!

If The fault light is not coming on when it shuts down its not somthing the puter knows or cares about! I have seen the the ECU fail when the cab temps get too warm!

But re start was not possible till cool down! Check all the grounds and the plug to the fuel pump If you have any pins on the fuel pump plug the look to have been warm have the pins changed at the dealer !

Drain the coolant and remove and check the screen insid the rubber tube bottom of the oil cooler if its pluged replace it!

Heres one ya want to buy it ? http://www.truckandtrailer.ca/inventorylist.cfm?pageaction=viewitemdetails&intProductID=68983

We bin bitchen for a couple of years to get our sales guys to get on it and they finally did Now all we got to do is sell it! I beleive its a pricing issue and the logging industry isn't what it was! Althou with the price of fuel on the rise these new fuel efficant units may becomeworth the money!

Usually you can see if there is fuel coming up the injector it will be sitting on top or comong out the injection line threads..the only place I can think of that this can happen excluding a crack in the block some where is the injector sleaves in the head! With such an odd problem that your having I would be inclinded to try some of stop leak products NOT BARRS but say dyke or Alumaseal the Barrs tends to plugg everything radd heatercore ect the other products are less agressive I have good luck with Alumiseal.When Desperate!

Do you have a fuel heater on your truck?

Some menebrs are missing and one is fjh. Any one hear from him recent? I miss his and some mores tech info.

Glenn I,m Still kickin around! The fourm is well served by the guys that attend here!

I have been busy with Other stuff thanks for the honorable mention thou. if ya need anything just pm I do checkin from time to time!