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It fought hard, but after finding a bad battery in the left side box we finally got it spinning over good enough. Then we had issues with the valves not sealing very good. I could hear it hissing out the intake. We started hosing the intake down with WD-40 and finally got compression on one cyl. It started letting out one little knock every time it would make a revolution. We finally gave up on it and I went home and Dad went up and ate dinner. He called a few minutes ago and said it fired up on 3 cyls and after about 10 seconds of missing it smoothed out. He says it sounds pretty good now, has good throttle response, and filled the whole shop with smoke!

Well as long as its a runner thats all a guy can ask.Paint it gray now it will really haul a$$.

Good job!

I have an E6 motor with an E7 bosch pump. I am not sure if it is an american or a robert. I have been playing with it a little bit. There is a cover on the back that had a seal on it. Inside is two screws with locking nuts. One has 8 mm nut, the other has 10mm nut. Can anyone tell me what these are and what they do. I turned the 10mm screw in about 3 turns and it made it more responsive. Am i messing up or what?

Your messing with the smoke control if you don't mind the smoke , you won't hurt it with that!

1 turn would have done the job!

Yeah, I'm not crazy about it either. I guess the guy has 2 big barrels of paint he uses, one white and one red. Sorry, no gray. If it runs I'll be happy.

It L run!

But it will run better gray! At least 20 hp more too!

Here's the proof!

It's hanging on the hook ready to go back in.

Thanks again guys!

Wrong color!

Thanks guys! I have it on 6 degrees BTDC on number one and both lights on, just have to get the gear put in and see how close I can get it.

Was there originally a pointer in that little hole in the bellhousing? I found a #2 phillips fits right in there, just curious.

Yup just center it the best you can the screw will be close enough!The degree spec is + / - 1 degree

What are some of the common causes for a 1995 Mack CH to lose its fuel prime overnight? The truck has lots of hours on it (around 20,000+) and ever since the cold weather has hit, the truck will not start in the morning without priming the fuel pump.

Could it be the primer unit, injector seals, return line grommets, or return line itself?

Any common possible solutions to my problem would be greatly appreciated.

Mike

Anseeuw Brothers Ltd.

Number one cause of fuel prime loss is any filters you have with plastic bowls on them on the primary side!

Racor ect!If you have one of these on your unit by pass it and see if the problem goes away!

Aside from that start at the begining check for loose fittings if the engine is vmac it has an orfice no leak off valve ,the primer Could be the problem but start with the cheap and easy stuff first!

if it is a mechanical engine check the leak off valve, the spring may be broken.

You are right . The lttle plug tells the story. glenn

the very first engines came out like that then changed back to one!If in doubt the plug tells the story as Glenn statedThe first engines also came with a Elab valve or fuel shut off valve which was also deleted after a bit!Guess they wanted to make sure the epump concept was going to work before trusting it with out the valve.

Adentified by a wire heading to a small valve at the inlet.

Thats a gotcha Glenn.

That would be awful tiresome to "crank that puppy over by hand" to get any work out of it.

I know you meant a mechanical injection engine, not an electronic one.

Rob

We found an A-B box at our local pump shop! They even UPS'd it to us today to use. Nice guys! Now if I someone had thought to put the static timing mark on the valve cover my worries would be over. I did find a few timing settings in the VMAC manual, but only up to 92. They ranged all over from 5 to 11 degrees. The truck owner says he has a twin truck to this one and he'll check the cover on it, so we'll see.

I got all the parts swapped between the engines so next week we'll bring the truck back and see about getting it stuffed back in. I forgot my camera or I'd have snapped a couple pics of it.

What horse power is the engine?

8 degrees would be a good starting point!

Has anyone figured out a way to get the pump timed on an electronic E7 without buying that expensive little box with the 2 lights on it?

Another problem, I can't even find a static timing figure to set the engine to if I had the timing box??? I looked at the flywheel today to see if it was marked but only see a couple nicks on the edge around 32 and 38 degrees? That's gotta be just some random digs by something that went around the bell housing I'm thinking.

Thoughts?

You can get it close by putting the engine on its static timing mark somwhere between 6 - 10 deg(what ever it says on the valve cover)peer into the hole were the timing tool fits and center the tone wheel tab in the hole with the fuel pump gear loose on th slots turn the pump cam till the tab is centered in the hole tighten the bolts .Be sure your marks are lined up on the fly wheel.

Also As Glen stated Some Pumps were timed on six!To identify the timed cylinder look for an allen head plug on the pump body on 1 or six if the plug is on 1 its timed to 1 if its on 6 its timed to six!

Note that this is a get by not somthing to go to the bank with just a get by!

Looks like a RD800.

Agreed

I recently purchased a 1990 mack ch 613 with a t2090 transmission, which instantly changes ranges when the pre select lever is flipped. this truck was set up for a dump bucket when it was new(but has all been since removed) i was wondering if anything could have been removed (such as a pressure regulator) from the transmission that could be the cause of this problem. other than this the transmission is smooth and functions properly,( i just have to go to neutral before flipping the lever)

some early trans had an adjustment for the range pin height!Having said that I have added a blob of weld to the bottom of that pin to make it a tad longer it only takes a little 32 of an inch.Lift the range valve off the top of the trans pull the pin out of the trans and add a bit to the bottom off it!Put it back in and give it a try!It may take a couple of trys to get it right,It is alot easier than messing with the adjuster( IF )it has one, some did some didn't.

seen a 2002 mack with a 460 &18speed .what history is there on the power train for that year.

What model? CH? RD?Nothing wrong with that combo in that year!

< >

Well, the truck owner priced the parts to fix it, and has shifted his search to a used engine. Oh well, at this point I just want to get it running and out of the shop.

Is the block damaged?

I bought a bunch of little 5 lb magnets at harbor freight tools today.

We just heard about the wood dowels for the B-series Cummins a couple days ago. The last one of those we did we pulled the side cover and put gas line size hose clamps on the tops of the lifters to hold them up.

The magnet stick kit from Kent tool is quite pricy! if you got pocket magnets from your tool source thous will work just ducky.I just hope your block is not damaged.

years ago when i worked alot of macks we had a can of black hard grease that you could put under the lifter and it would hang all day. I dont know about a E7 but the little cummins we use chop sticks to hang from the top.

What Glen said! we had a can of black hard grease that you could put under the lifter and it would hang all day. I dont know about a E7 but the little cummins we use chop sticks to hang from the top.

There are magnet sticks for this job !Grease is the get by way!Just geter done.

Heard the miles are around 600 thou. Damper seems like new, liquid type by the looks of it.

I'm still thinking the front cam bearing went out first. Once the cam broke, it stopped running almost instantly. All that was left of the bearing was in the pan though. Looks like it was wearing for some time before the breakage. Once the bushing fell out the leverage pulling on the cam broke it.

The cam bushing out should have droped the oil preasure some!

V8s would some times get the front cam bushing riped out by the crank shaft counter weight!

it would cause an instant 10 psi drop in oil preasure and did not affect the engines runing other wise.

we had one run for months like that till the guy found the bushing in the pan on an oil change!he came asking what it was!We called Mack on it they said O ya Just put a new bushing back in with lock tight it will be fine that was it ran for years beyond that!

this may be a total diffrent story who knows.

This one is in a 94 dump truck with a lot of miles. I'll post up more as I dig into it. Bad part is the truck just recently had the whole top end done at Mack.

I'd be taking a close look at the damper as

Glenn stated The early E7 cams wen't problematic!The Eteck cam that started this post was.

We had failures as low as 50000 kms.They still fail from time to time! not droping like flys thou!

Then your saying the Holsit will not work on a E6. I am glad you told me that because i have a Holsit on a junk engine that i was saving for my E6 if and when i need one.

Glenn I have never tried to mix and match!But my obsevation is the e7 tube is a larger od than the e6 by quite a bit!No great loss on the holset thing! they anit all what there cracked up to be!

yes it is, along with the married power steering pump. are the accessory drives the same bolt pattern, size, etc.?

The compressors are diffrent but some have provision for the steering pump!the oil feed tube on the 7 is bigger than the E six.

The O.P. said:

The E7 mechanical engines have the compressor in the same place as the E6 - buried down on the right rear.

HK

His e6 compressor accesory is not direct swap over thou!Also the power steering pump mounts on the front on some models lots of little things to think about is all!As long as the e7 has all of the above bolted to it .he will have somthing to work with!

not to worried about the little stuff. I have all winter to work the glitches out. mostly concerned with physical dimensions. dont want to cut firewall out or have to move radiator. Thanks for your help. Love this site.

No fire wall cut!The front mount compressor and the water pump will be your main stumbles!

also the jake puts the valve covers real tight to the heater hoses!that again is simple stuff!

Physicly pretty much the same depending on what truck the engine is coming from!

First big problem you may encounter is the front mount.RS is cradle mounted on the front cover!The e7 has a bolt on mount!

compresors differ sum .Water pump s differ from model to model!

With out setting em side by side !I'd be sceptical anything is possible with a little time thou!

I could for see lots of little and some big glitches!The RS did come with a 4 valve e6 at one point just before they did away with the model!

I am one who like no noise at all and i like to use the jake where ever with out having the fear of a ticket or botheren any one. I think it is very childess in a grown man to wake up every one in town with jakes when all it is being dont for is to say ha guys look at me. I have listen to engines run all my live and am hard hearing over the rackety and dont need any more of it.What i do like is hear a engine run under load with a short muffler and long tail pipe but can live with out that for the sake of my ears. So much for that and that is free my 2 cents worth. glenn

Glenn I'm with ya pal!

One exception thou!I like the sound of a V8 pulling, straight pipe or not!

Kind of a locamotive sound to it! Real powerful throb!