fjh

I can tell you some about appointments. Most guys that want a appoinment for saving some time but who out there is going to keep the appointment if a good load comes up and the truck will run one more trip or what if his wife tells him she has other plans. I have seen it many times so appointments in most cases are a joke. A joke on both sides.No shop is going to keep a slut open not knowing if you will come or not so they take what comes in to keep from paying help to wait and see if you come in.A doctor can do that but a shop can if all other jobs go as planed.

I have found that very few guys will phone and cancel an appointment !Somtimes I wish I could charge for missed appointments like the docs office, Its hard to plan around things when guys don't show!

Just think, in another 29 years, when you have to change an air compressor on an MP8 in an old wore out GU, you'll look back at this and remember the good ole days. A leaking air chamber diaphragm will keep the compressor from building air. Remember, when appplying the spring brake you are not putting any air into the chamber. If you have the spring brake applied and it's leaking air out of the chamber you need to check further up line to find out what is supplying air to the chamber when the spring brake is set

News for ya!The GU won't Be here In 29 years!It will be in the scrap beside all the other throw away Trucks that are being built today!

But having said that ,Yup remeber what ya hope for!Cause a Any RD CH or older truck Even a RS tandem tandem steer is easy compared to a GU count your self lucky.

Now my truck is starting to run hot. My V-8 Superliner is acting up. On long hard pulls, the temp. goes up to 220 with the oil temp reaching 230. When I level off, the water temp. comes down to 200, but the oil temp, takes a lot longer. I changed the clutch fan because I could not hear it lock up when it should. I still can't hear it lockup with the new one on. I do run dual open stacks so it is loud, maybe I just can't hear it. Does anyone know how to test the clutch fan? Maybe I have an oil cooler problem? The motor is fresh, pulls hard, pyremeter never goes past 1000. Turbo boost hits 27lbs. at max. The motor is turned up to around 650Hp. but never gave me problems of heating up. Lately it has bin using a little anti-freeze. No outside leaks, no signs of where it is going. Oil shows no sign of water in it. I think maybe I have a cracked head or a blown head gasket. I am going to do a exhaust gas check on the anti-freeze to find out for sure.

If you have the engine turned up as high as you say you should be making way more boost check for boost leaks! The boost should be more in the 32 to 34 range with a juiced engine.

also keep your air cleaner clean the engine will suck the elbow on the intake flat when pulling hard Once you got it running right!

as for the fan test cut card bord to fit the rad cut a 4 inch hole in front of the fan hub and warm up to temp.

Are the stats new? The over fuel combined with boost leaks can cause overheating!!! check that first as the engine is not putting out what it should!

The relay you hear clunking when the key is turned on is likely at fault replace that.

Alright guys, I finally got around to using a chisel and hammer to get that special screw out so that I could finish getting the cover off and then i find out that it doesn't look like what was being explained. I'll post the pic on here that I took. It looks like there are a couple bolts that are attached to a long adjusting screw from the back that you can see in the image. It has 2 screws that hold the whole assembly down, but it doesn't look like it can slide without hitting the gasket for the cover. I was afraid to move anything after seeing what it looked like. What do you all think? Thanks in advance!!

Try loosening the bolt on top turn the screw on the( end one) turn tighten the bolt and try it! ( Note )I beleive ya turn that one counter clock wise to increase!You can always put it back where it was if you don't get the results your after!

I have worked on engines since the jake started and i have seen and corected the fact that some guys have tighen the jake lash up and that is only a story they hear on the radio. Like been stated be carefull with the lash and dont experment withe the lash setting. Here is a look at why your tighter than factory lash setting will not help but be some less than usefull.When you set lash closer than it should be that makes the valve start to open faster due to the timing efect on lesser lash. Of if the valve opens faster now or another way of looking at it the piston will be at a lower postion in the hole than normal so that means the air being compressed to use as a compression brake is not compressed as much as if the piston was alowed to come on up at a normal postion.The pop off air pressure is not as much now is another way of looking at it.If you put more lash in the jake it would let the piston be at a higher postion in the hole and would be a better brake but dont you know jake brake has tested this and found the best lash for that brake. They have all to lose and nothen to gain by printing the incorrect lash info.I have hear this story since the early 60s and if dont help to try and change what has been tested.When you play with the jake lash you stand a change of having valve to piston contact if another problem was to happen.I also have found there is not any difference in the braking power in the two brake systems. If you have all of the parts for the dynatard and want to sell them contact me.

Glen Having said what you have said About the jake is all true! The dyna tard being a diftrent animal I have set the exhast a little tighter on them and had some good results acheiving better engine braking even three thou tight on the exhast provides better engine braking But you need to be mindfull of the rpms you DO not want to go into over speed AT ALL with the tight setting.

The jake does not work any better than a dynard on these engines .Comparing it to a more modern engine is not a fair comparison.As for the set what you experianced is normal for setting valves on a dynatard cam (loose valve lash 1 back).Your set is fine! I would not atempt tweaking the jake set any more than 1 or 2 thou tighter you could end up with bent valves.80 to 85 depending on turbo #nos is spec i beleive.

Our 2001 460 was, pardon the pun, a DOG!! It should have been a very powerful truck, was specced to the hilt. The engine was backed by an 18 speed. But our 400's with 15 speed tranny's (glorified 10, actually) would run circles around it. Had it in to the dealer several times, reprogrammed, dynoed it, tweaked it.... They never did bring it up to satisfaction. Finally sold it off. Gotta be some duds out there. I know of several fleets that have had very good luck with the 460. All of our 427's performed very well, way above the 460 and 400's.

Damn near forgot about the one Mack I operate now, it's my profile pic. An MR 688 with a REED 42 Meter concrete boom pump mounted on it. It's a 460, but it suffers with the 9 speed, not enough gears to keep it in the 'sweet spot'. It weighs 80,000 lbs and a 600 RPM drop between gears is too much. A 12 speed mack or a 13 or 18 Mack or Fuller tranny would have suited it much better. But then again it doesn't make it's living running up and down the road. The transmission feeds into the 'Steibel box' (gearbox in-line with the drive shaft that disconnects the driveline and powers the powerful hydraulic pumps to operate the concrete pump. It may 'torque up' once there are more hours on it. Although it is a 2006 truck, it was new, old stock when I bought it in the fall of 2009.

Every pump truck on the planet gets speced with a 9 speed and the wrong engine don't know why that is!We had a pump in the other day with a power complaint It came down to the fact it had a 9sp no selection to keep the thing in the power band! some one really needs to get there shit together when specing these! Another bitch I have with them is specing pumps with 24 type brake pots all the way around,The heaviest peice of equipment on the claim and we spec it with 24 brake chambers Not very bright.Ive seen this alot As far as I am concerned it should be illegal to have small chambers on anything speced for a pump rig heavy by design.

i guess im in the mood to argue with anyone that will let me

if i have to change it with the oil, its gona be dangned pricy service.

if it blows the end out it's doing no good anyway????????????

Go to the chat room!

i was gona run this one about 25,000 and check it.

head to the to chat room!

hey fjh havnt talked to ya in a while, that means my trucks doin ok,lol

after about 40,000 mine was stopped up so bad it blew the end out.

to block or not to block, this question has cost me a lot of sleep.

trucks running good, getting 5.75 mpg

but i am thinking about taking out the coolant screen???????????????

I would block the egr before taking out the screen!

whats your opinion about removing the coolant screen from the y pipe

Its there for a reason!!!! Just replace it once in awhile.

I've read your other posts about this and can't figure out why it would work unless your mass air flow tube had bad sensors in it that were feeding the mass flow ecm bad information. Maybe you got lucky and got some parts that were "bad" in just the right way!

I got two customers running with the plate. the one claims to be getting 40 bucks a day better fuel milage with egr code The other more power, but no milage gain as of yet with an egr code!Why you have no egr code is a real mistery as 68 mentioned before its real odd!Having said that the egr code took along time to come on with the one truck several hundred miles but it did show up.

Chrysler, like the car company? Dont they own Freightliner?

i think they parted ways awhile back.

That sucks. So are you guys set up with Huss or someone else to install the DPF kits?

Huss has been a pain to get a hold of !I beleive we have found some one to supply Compeditive? duno? ! ?? Donalson has one and they are our filter supplier ,but KW was on the ball and got an exclusive contract so we can't buy there with out going to a KW dealer that puts us at a disadvantage price wise.A real rock and a hard place!I asked Barry a while back if he new of a supllier but Huss was the only one he new of and You guys down south haven't needed to retro fit yet! Guess we are the guinea pigs on this round.I hate this emmions shit with a passion it's cause the most unreliable peices of junk to be produced in along time. and now were going to screw up something that was once depenable with an add on.

GREAT !

Went and looked for any kind of wire today...no dice. There's no switch in the cab, no wire off of the fuel pump. I started it up for giggles and it ran just fine. I'm very confused. One other note, this engine is governed at 1800. Is that normal for the ETAZ?

From what I can see of the picture theres a wire to the valve cover disconect that also it apears there is a wire at the fuel pump on the little square cover that is where the switch is located if it is there!I have see lash ajusters stick from time to time That as others have mentioned will cause a miss and white blu smoke!The solnoids under the valve covers can work loose and can cause oil preasure to bypass the solnoid orings and go directly to the engine brake gallery in the rocker shaftThis causes a three cylinder miss and smoke!

I've actually had Mack tell me components like the rear ends & clutch had to be replaced with heavier parts when moving from an AMI370 to AI460 of this vintage about 2 years ago, well out from under warranty. I prefer going through Mack and getting their appproval on the upgrade for two reasons:

#1 If the drivetrain shells out because the customer was made aware of the required upgrades but chose not to install them then I'm covered

#2 By installing the parts to change the engine horsepower per Mack the emissions certification is ok. This keeps the customer, me, and my employer out of trouble with the EPA, I can't afford that kind of trouble.

fjh, aren't you in Canada? What are the rules like up there? I mean are there different emissions levels in different provinces where some are stricter than others, like California here is?

In some respects the laws are as strict, as I posted earlier this month the province has decided that any 89 to 93 unit has to have a dpf fitted to it as of october or you will not be able to licence it.

I keep hearing from lots of drivers on how to stay away from the Volvo engines. So what does that say about Mack???

[/quote]The engine is no worse than anyone elses engine .The stuff bolted to the engine is the problem and is also everyone elses problem cat would be still producing engines for trucks if it wern't for the rubush that had to be bolted to the engine to meet emmisions.

The engine is a dual horsepower rating. At cruise speed it runs at the lower horsepower, and uprates when pulling. What you were told is technically correct. Road speed reprogramming is no big deal. Changing horsepower can cost a lot of money because it requires several component changes. Your engine might require new injector, turbo, and the like, depending on what it is stepped up to. Mack has to approve a horsepower changeover. If you go above a certain horsepower they (Mack corporate) will tell you that you need to install an oil cooler for the transmission, a higher rated clutch, and possibly heavier differentials. What they tell you to change is dependent upon horsepower & gcvw. You would probably be able to step up to a 380/410 engine without the changes to chassis components. I would have to look at the tune up specs to see if there are different injectors & turbo for it.

And re and re the cam to replace the cam key if you want to go to 460.I highly doubt they would have any say over a truck that old!

If the truck was still under warrenty then yes there would be limitations!

From the stories I've heard, the new DPF equipped MP's never actually run long enough to get the oil dirty, so a centrifugal filter is no longer necessary.

.

Yet another Good call Herb!

We actually been finally having deceant luck for the most part with the few that have been sold here!

The Asset was away more touble for longer, when it came out!

Sorry I haven't been around for a while work has been hectic. I probably really won't be around with the good news I got but I'm not going to share it until it's all "official".

Talk about baiting people on!!!!!!

I think the reason they aren't used on the MP series engines or maybe it was because they couldn't come up with a way for it to break and set a fault code every other day!

Good call rhasler!

Mack used the Centrimax centrifugal oil filter from the introduction of the E7 PLN (manual and electronic inline pumps) through the MP7 US04 Emission engines. There are several variations of the filter now, I can count 5, but there may be more. I believe the Mack filter is made by Mann & Hummel, but there are several filter manufacturers that also ssell them (Fleetguard, Baldwin, etc.).

I cant speak for the bolt on ones!But!

You can buy the mack style cartrage at Napa as well! Also not being an arse but the centramax was introduced on the 4 valve E6.The best thing since sliced bread for getting crap out of the oil ,in my opinion Iv'e seen em pluged solid with goo!

Yet another good Idea thrown out the window by the Volvo people! If they didn't think of it its not a good idea! Its really to bad these guys didn't take a good look at what they inherited and examine the some of the good property's and ideas that were incorporated in it!

Have you changed oil and filters yet? It could be an air cleaner. That's probably one of the easiest and cheapest things to check. Also, did it start after reconnecting the Jake?

Agree check the air filter!Its likly an air issue possibly boost leak ,highly unlikly an injector issue