fjh

Wondering if a little lube would help.I am thinking of taking the range shift valve filter out and see if it is dirty,if I can get to it.Thank you for your help.

If you lift up on the range lever in gear and then take it out of gear you should hear it expell air then hear the range shift!If you hear rhe air expell and no range clunk its likly not the range valve more likly orings in the range cyl in the lid.They tend to get oil in them and have a little stickyness till the oil warms and thins out.

Yeah, it's definetely a huge jump. I can tag the UD to 60,000lbs with a trailer (GCWR), I think I can tag a Granite all the way to 80,000lbs (GCWR).

So having 2 rear axles (tandems) is enough to get me through snow and ice without having a powered front axle? I generally stay out of the mud, that means I'm tearing up a customers lawn. It's best to stay on pavement, less sod to replace.

The man reason I'm looking at buying my own truck is I'm tired of having to run my business around truck availability. Few things are as frustrating as being ready to start a job and getting the call that I've been bumped for beter paying (oversize permit) loads and it will be a few days before my "compact" equipment is trucked to my jobsite. I'd rather truck it myself and pocket the mobilization fee I charge. My equipment is just outside of what can be safely and legally moved with a 1 ton, but well under the more lucrative oversize loads. Hence I get bumped at the last minute for big loads all too often.

Equally frustrating is ordering XXX yards of material and waiting hours for it to show up. In the last 4 years I've lost enough money in waiting for trucks to pay for a UD easily.

I'm not bashing truckers, I understand stuff happens and it's just business. It's time for me to make the move into mobilizing my own equipment.

If I was in your shoes I'd be looking for a single axle dump on air ! Likly a Binder DT466 cheap and dependable .Or a 350 mack single axle ch with a dump body!either would be cheap on fuel and low maintance.

It only happens when the truck is range shifted the first time in the morning,with a loose yolk wouldn't it happen periodically all day?Is there an air regulator that can be adjusted to increase air pressure to the synchronizer cylinder to give it a little more uumph.

the trans gets system preasure.If the problem gets worse worry about it then once in the morning is not going to be much of a problem could be sticky orings.

Glad to have found this forum.I have recently been assigned a different truck,concrete pump truck on an MR 688 with an E-7 400 engine,with a T-310 transmission.The first time I range shift from lo to hi while leaving out a distinctive grind is heard from the transmission,but does not happen for the rest of the day.I believe the is the beginning of the end for the synchronizer.or am I wrong.I was taught to always pre-select ,please tell me if I am wrong,never to shift from lo to hi or hi to lo without being IN a gear.If the range select lever is changed while in neutral damage to the synchronizer will occur.This truck was operated by someone else for almost a year and I believe his shifting procedures were wrong,i.e.,range shifting in neutral.Now,with it grinding only one time in the morning could this mean there is a problem with the o-rings in the range shift valve or synchronizer cylinder due to some kind of binding or shrinkage over night?I am not sure for the proper part but the cylinder that is on the back of the transmission that has 2 air lines running to it,could the inside be dirty or scarred preventing problems in the morning?I am looking for some help although I think it is the beginnings of synchronizer failure.Any ideas?

Your method is correct!However begining of the end for the synro may be premature there is a good posibility that the synco is on its way out time will tell that!I would however check the yoke bolt on the rear of the trans to see if it is tight that can cause the same intermitant patern.

Have a 98 mr90 cant get one of the turn signals to stay on hazards flash three times then it shuts off. Any ideas?

fjh:

I moved the sensor on the pump upwards to retard and all started working again. Econovance is working and in timing range again. Truck has good power again.

I timed the pump to 8 with with the tap on the sensor window and the marks on the flywheel, and scanner say 11 at idle. You think i shout send the pump to a diesel lab to verify the position of the tone wheel ?.

Thank you

Klaus

If you had the tab centered in the window @ 8 you should be ok to go if it seems alright probably is! 12 is normal idle timing Its running close to where it should for timing electricly the static is what will cause greif it needs to know where to start from. Or if that tone wheel has slipped it will ping and rattle or it will smoke retarded. it sounds like your ok ifits not pingng or smoking.If this all changes with out notice you will have to have the pump checked!otherwise leave it!

Is there a way to eliminate the 'econovance' so my truck doesn't go into a 1000 rpm smoke show on a cold start right after turning the key...? Or do I need an E-tech to have the smooth jump to 650 rpm at start up...

The engine needs oil preasure to power the econovance into an advanced timing to eliminate the smoke.

Hi, i have a problem with the timing on a E7-400. Engine did not like 8 degrees static timing, it smokes very bad with a strong miss. The only position where engine runs without smoke in idle but still with a miss in high speed and lack of power is from 20 !! degress static timing. Computer sets code 35 (timing actuator).I checked all the wiring and conectors, changed the complete econovance unit two times to be sure. With these 20 degrees timing scanner displays 23 at idle to 31!! at high idle with the econovance plug disconected. If anyone could help please

? how are you setting the timing! With what? I have run across engines( fuel pumps) where the tone wheel inside the pump has sliped and the engine does not know where its at!The puter gets its timing event from the plug on the side rear of the pump!the engine should stumble and sputter till the oil preasure comes up then it should clean up!The timing should be set static at 8 with the tone tab in the window where the event marker goes!Apply 12 volts to the timing acuator if the advance if it is working the engine will clean up and run smoother.if it doesent the timing sol is not working.

just had truck serviced and it was fine then started making clunking noise that sounds like its coming from transmission it goes in each gear ok but as you pick up speed or under a load the clunking get faster also . drive shaft and everything under the truck looks good , what would cause a clunking noise.

Serviced ? oil change? You could have a rear diff gone!Ususlly clunks don't come from trans area! or clutch area!

Proper clutch adjustment if your clutch brake is set corectly is like this!Open the door of the truck put your right or left hand on the clutch pedal push light ly down there should be 1 1/2 of easy pedal till there is big resistance if its like that then its adjusted correctly.If its instantly hard then its past due for adjustment!

Clunk problem !> Have seen steel bud rims crack and clunk check the rims if so equiped!

Does the truck have MACK diffs IF so what ratio If 4:17 or 4:42 remove the top side cover of both diffs and look for missing teeth!

The other thought I have before the top gear sets is to lock out the power divider see if the clunk goes away miss matched tires will cause the powerdivider to clunk!

just a few places to start.

can some one tell me how to adjust the clutch on a mack ch613 super 10 trans

What is wrong with your clutch is it sliping?

The Mack power divider is a diffrent animal!It is is a series of piston like wedges with an inner and outer cam as one piston or wedge is forced out when wheels speeds are diffrent one is on its way in the iiner cam is offset it acts as a ratchet or limited slip only between axles.Is a very diffrent thing to try an discribe with out you actually seeing it!Bottom line think of it as a limited slip!

It makes the power divider limited slip not the diffs!But Mack also made a differenial with the same set up contained in it!

On my early 80's Mack I have a question about the rear end power divider. I had always wondered why it seemed quite hard to even spin the tires on the back of this thing when on a soft surface until the other day. I had the roll off tub lifted clear up in the air and I was going to back up, but didnt realize it was up so high and it had both sets of duals on the right side just a smidge off the ground. When I went to back up, i noticed the truck didnt move of course and both axles on the right were turning at the same time. I thought, maybe the power divider was locked in, so I flipped the switch and the buzzer went off, I had just engaged it, it had already been off, so i flipped it back off and of course the air switch hissed air. I tried to move again and the same thing. Both sets of tires on the right would spin at the same time and the same speed. Is there something wrong? We've had the truck almost a year and have put several thousand miles on it and have never engaged the power divider. How does it work on this truck? Does it always use power to both rears and the power divider's purpose is to lock in the rear ends as posi? I hope this isnt in the wrong area of the forum. Excuse me if it is. Thanks everyone!

The Mack power divider is a diffrent animal!It is is a series of piston like wedges with an inner and outer cam as one piston or wedge is forced out when wheels speeds are diffrent one is on its way in the iiner cam is offset it acts as a ratchet or limited slip only between axles.Is a very diffrent thing to try an discribe with out you actually seeing it!Bottom line think of it as a limited slip!

Hi out there, new to the site. Was wondering if anyone could tell me the differance between the em6 & the e7 engines. Also,could you take a (jake) brake from a e7 & put it on a em6 with dynatard?

wlcome to the site!

E6 engine has dri lners and less stroke than the e7, the e7 has wet liners more stroke and built somwhat

heavier than the E6 also all the threading on E7 is metric! The jakes are not interchangable!

OK thanks guys

I need to Stand Down, I saw the picture and jump too quick but I have never seen oil on E6 and E7 studs and don't want

to own a e-teck

Stand down Naw!With out input nobody would get things fixed!Ya need to step up to the plate when ever possible!

Check for a boost leak in the CAC, piping, or boots.

That would explain both the "siren" sound, and the low boost pressure.

Also Depending on where the compressor is plumbed in check the compressor inlet tubes .

For a 1999-2000 Etech 460 and 460XT(490HP) the Mack tune-up book says 27-35psi. The 460XT is the exact same engine/turbo/injectors just different download and a 100 Ftlbs more torque.

The 460 with xt file will produce 40 psi on a cold day and We had seveal customers CLs that would hit 40 consistantly!It was quite common for the compressor wheels on these to pop in half ,that problem has since been repaired thou!

I dont remember the problem on the older E-7's, I have only seen it happen on the ETECH style engines, including the ASET's.

Ive seen it happen on All 4 valves sixes it was most prevelant on the eteck cause of the larger coarse thread studs.

Valve seals

Nope pull the stud out and put pipe sealant on it and put it back in!the stud opens up into the pushtube hole oil is coming from there!

OK so I called the local Mack dealer today, the one that I got the new lines from. I talked to the service manager about my problem, I asked if there was any kind of a oring kit or anything for where the injection line meets the injector. I was told that there was nothing, I was told that where the injection line mates with the injector it is metal on metal. His advice was to loosen the line again and then tighten the living crap out of it. So who is right? I guess I would think that there should be something to seat the line to the injector. Like I said before, I just had the head gaskets replaced, to my knowledge the injectors where never taken out-just the lines taken off. This is on a 92 E7 400. Thanks for the info and for the record I think you guys know more than the local service manager.

I am going to say Im right!Get new orings and washers for the injectors and replace em!He is right in regard to orings at the line it is metal on metal!Now having said that try what he said to do Back them off and retighten em if it don't work do what I said to do!I have seen this happen lots but you welcome to try the other method it will cost you nothing to try!

Thanks for the reply.Can the gear at the front of the shaft be removed without taking off the front gear train cover?

If I remember corectly the gear stays in the cover theres a big nut on the front 2 inch or so Shaft is splined to gear. can be done fairly easily can be acsessed behind the ps pump or ps cover block off which ever you have!

Ok-So do I need to pull the injectors out to put the orings in?

Yes, valve covers off you need a 5/16 fine bolt to pull them up and a 15 mm socket and 6 inch extention to pull the plug that holds them in! and the injection line has to be out.

Hello-I am working on a 92 CH613 with a 400 E7. I just recently had the head gaskets replaced and now the fuel injection lines on cylinders 1 and 2 are leaking. They are both leaking out of the head where the injection line is threaded in. I loosened the outside nut and tightened the stud thinking this would help stop the leak. The fuel is coming through the threads of the stud that the fuel line goes through into the head. Next I was told that this was common anytime the fuel lines are taken off and sometime the only way to get them to stop leaking is to replace the lines. So I bought two new injection lines for cylinders 1 and 2 and I installed them today. Guess what they both leak! I am thinking it is something on the mating surface of the injector where flanged part of the injector line meets. Is this possible? What should be my next corse of action? Thanks.

You need to reseal the injectors!Buy 6 oring kits and do em all!

I'd also bet that there's something going on in one of the rear ends.

In most cases I''d tend to agree with you hk but if I read right ,its jumping out of gear as well ,a rear end problem would not cause it to do this. I have seen the tail shaft snap ring come off and cause the split not to work properly.

ok ,thanks for the assist.

all bolts tight on bellhousing

this noise happens both in hi and low range.

i put a air pressure gauge on the air supply(s) of gear lever air shifter and have 69 lb, i did adjust air regulator up to 90 psi, drove with no difference then adjusted it back to 70 psi.

i can walk beside truck moving in yard and noise can be heard when driver ask for power and then lets off pedal with clutch out.just a big clunk and gear noise.

it was suggested by power trane of louisville to lock power divider in with air sw on dash,drive to see if problem went away, driver did for about 10 miles from job,thought we has found it, then 1/2 mile from shop in 25MPH zone he is sorta coasting and heard the noise clunk,didnt come all way out, then started pulling again and all smooth.

any help appreciated.

larry perkins

Did you pull the drain plug and see of there are hunks coming out of it? Usually the first thing you need do on a 12 speed with noise problems!

the next thing is pull the side covers on both diffs and check the drain plugs there as well!You have already locked the power divider out so thats confirmed!

Before pulling the trans pull the side BIG pto cover and look inside check to see that the split is operating corectly and going all the way in!

Quick question about the engine shutdown/electonic malfuntion light...what else would trigger it besides low coolant? The other night it was coming on on me every now and then. All the fluids are fine and there was no shutdown and/or power loss. Truck is a 97 CH.

Oil preasure / coolant overheat and low coolant set the lights off on a 97!If you have the inactive codes check that will tell the tail.