fjh

Looking at the last Bulldog magazine I see a 2010 Granite twin-steer EPA2010 ready: is there any twin-steer in US?

We sell quite a few of these here in canada for mixers !

http://nanaimomack.com/

yea I only drove the 100% air shift versions.

drove one behind a 350 and one behind a 300. I like that you can drive it like a 5 speed. or split if you need.

. with the 300 I would start in direct/1,2,3,4,5 then split to hi and go home in OD. I know the grind that you talk about. hard to get use to and know it hard not to..... Im thinking about bidding on it for my RS700L. off the top of your head...What top speed will I have with 4.17s? and LP24.5s. Im stuck at 62MPH/2100RPM right now. Speed limit in IL just went to 65MPH.

Im guessing at 70 with 4.17 having said that. there were 2 versions a direct and an O/D you want O/D I don't remember the prefix for them ya can tell by the number!

thanks for this info I may bid on this if the price is right... can you simply add a air shift for the aux box? and remove the stick?

does it take the mack pto that runs off the lower counter shaft?

also is this one of the only mack 2 stick transmissions that has the main stick on the out side?

Answer to Glenns question, yup the countershaft bearings!

answer to Trents question Air shift can convert easy remove the detent ball under the lid and your good to go!

Most have the hollow countershaft for the mack pto but you should look for your self the case is usually stamped with a 0 or pto on the bottom that dosent always mean its there!

Youll like the 12 speed with the exception of the 5 hi lo split they grind a bit! Theres only one or two guys that walk the face of the planet that can shift one with out grinding!

got a '93 ch with a eaton 9spd. just bought it a couple of weeks ago. transmission shifted fine until about 3 days ago. now everytime i click onto the high side (4th to 5th) it makes a grinding noise then it clicks in. no matter how i shift it it stil grinds. any ideas? a friend of mine said it might be a syncro. i'm hoping i can make some kind of adjustment....

Your friend is correct.

thats what I was thinking... anything to look out for with the older model 12 speeds?

Good trans for the most part! If you do a lot of backing up on steap grades they tend to take out the back bearings We use to replace the bearings once a year in off hyw gravel trucks as a maintanance item, takes about an hour! depending on ptos!

I could be wrong, but I think the second stick is just for the deep reduction gear. I think the splitter and reverse are still air shift on the main stick. I bet Herb knows for sure.

the second stick is the deep reduction

they simply put an air shift on it for certain models!

That made it available in the MH when it came along!

Glad to help.

Yup no problem!Thats what this place is all about!

Sorry fjh, I somehow missed your earlier post.

;

No prob ,were just trin to help right .either way he'll get there!

I checked the electrical conections, that was an early thought for me. I looked for flywheel marks but couldn't find any. Are they on the face of the flywheel or on the side? The only other work as tightening up some fuel lines. Is there any way you can over tighten the pencil injectors into the head and damage them?

Nope ! you can't hurt the injectors unless you get really aggressive. Go thru the valve set again somthing is messed up !Follow one or both of the afore mentioned instructions to get your self back on track!If your stuck for Valve set marks on the fly wheel , the set can be done on overlap on the rest of the cyl's as I discribed earlier, in firing order .

1 5 3

6 2 4

I'm fairly confident but that said I still may have messed up. I set in that firing order and assumed the exhaust valve is the closest to the front of the engine, this is the valve with the Jake slave cylinder on it. Also I adjusted the valves on the push rod side of the rocker arm not the bridge side. Like I said I think I did it right but this the first time doing a valve set on a Mack so let me know what you think.

You got smoke that means ya got fuel!The valve set sounds suspect!With the lids off check for overlap (valves rocking) on # no six then set the valves on one and go thru the firng order ,what your doing is confirming compression on one with this only use the pointer on the flywheel for V/S

mated cylinders below If one is on compression six will be overlaping If 5 is on compression 2 will be over laping!

1 5 3

6 2 4

we have a 2005 mack granite with a 460, 18 speed, 4.35:1 ratio in the rears.... its a dog, had mack put a different program in it, it ran noticibly better but just want more!!!...i tried searching from time to time on google to try and find companies that make any aftermarket performance upgrades (programmers, turbos, injectors, anything!), but have yet to find anything. i have also heard rumors about tinkering with the air sensors on the intake to fool the engine to work harder, but that seems like a hoak, i never noticed anything more from it... so im asking any you guys out there if you have ever came across any tricks or any website that has anything to add any more power to an ai 460. thanks, Joey

you might want to talk to thunderdog on the forum here he did some stuff to his it pulls OK now ! Drop him a PM.

Well im gonna put a new fuel pump and injectors in this winter, and was wondering if 4000 rpm is unreasonable with stock heads and cam. Im gonna try to make my own headers cause the turbo im gonna run wont bolt up to the stock manifold. Theres a couple of CATS that need mauled around here and this may do the trick.

I got to beleive you will float valves with stock heads at 4 grand! Broken lifters were a problem with these on over speed 2600 maybe. but .at 4000 you'll have push rods thru valve covers in my opinion

The valves on number 8 are noisey. Like not ticking but louder than the other 3 heads. I ran this engine for 9 hours

then reset the valves.Still seems to loud for me. Is this normal when you have new piston and liner.

Any suggestions.

Thanks

No I think you may not be set right check to make sure you are on the right cyl when setting 8 and 2 are on the same mark. 2 should be on overlap when you set 8

Just wondering what the labor cost would be to R&R 427 ai and or book time thanks including removing and installing in a granite

We would normally quote 50 hours on the out frame and 10 too 16 RR

I just bought my first Mack, a 77 DM686. Got it cheap, and it is an oil burner. I checked the dipstick, and it was dry. Added 2.5 gallons, and nothing. Fires right up, runs strong, and the last owner even drove it over for delivery. I know the engine probably holds more than a dozen gallons, so I might still be low.

I would like to find the correct length of the dipstick should be, so I dont overfill. And, what are the specs for engine oil capacity?

Last owner said this truck would burn 4 gallons in 8 hours, running the highway, working hard. I know gas engines fair, and blowby would pressurize the bottom end, etc. But, this truck seems to be strong still. As it warms up, it gets better, but never goes away. Is it just wore out?

Engine Family 7. Model ENDT 676

Thanks for any help.

32 litre or quarts total 28 in the pan. If it has 3 oil filters (Deep pan ) it takes 48 in the pan 53 including filters

The endless oil change your doing a n oil change every second day!

I suspect the cause of this problem was neglect on the part of the last tech to work on top end of this engine. I found the injector caps on cyl#5 & #6 not torqued to 45-50ftlbs. #6 had maybe 15-20ftlbs & I suspect that this it what caused the nozzle seal to be blown out. It cooked the orings on #5 also as it was not torqued correctly either. I am very happy not to have to do cam job as $ are tight but I remain causously optomistic about the condition of the cyl. head & particularily #5 #6 injector cups. Still have problem of coolant res. leaking out of overflow cap but engine runs & pulls great with lots o power & no smoke. I have not pulled the y coolant hose off & checked the screen on oil cooler but I suspect this may be problem.

You likly don't have to worry on the injector cup as it is the bottom of the head (cast) the injector is mounted in in a sheath pressed into the head.Yup ya did good I'll be puttin this one in my memory bank as I never would have thought a chirp would develop by an injector I have seen one stuck so bad the injector insert came up with the injector and had to use a porta power to pull it and of coase it was No 6 the hardest one to get to! Your Hired! even thou you are a PETE guy! We won't hold that against ya!

UPDATE: Turns out my chirping sound was #6 injector fire ring blown out(found three little pieces left of it). I replaced all the injectors & engine now purrs & the chirping is now gone. Under load this cylinder was losing compression into the injector cup (made for a real fun time getting #6 out of its hole,took me 2hrs on #6 & the rest I had changed in an hour & half. I am a Peterbilt/KW Tech. currently but I have much experience with all other makes & I very much appreciate the help you guys gave me. If there is anything I can help anyone with please don't hesitate to ask me.I specilize in diagnostics & troubleshooting & am not always right but I offer my opinion to any & all who have questions.

Once again thanks for the help & hope I can return the favor.

Sincerely,

Jim

Wow! Good news! that would have thrown anybody off track, good thing you stuck to your guns and pulled the injectors ! good find Thanx for posting your fix!

Lot Better than doin a Cam job!

Thanks

I found a place the rebuilds them in Edmonton

I will keep the number in case I need more.

Cheers

Byron

Kool! You set the valves with the pointer located on the right front of the engine aimed at the damper the damper, The set is done in firing order 1548

6372

You need to set a 8 and 7 turn the engine to 8/2 on the damper if the valves are tight and are in motion as you turn the engine you need to turn the engine 360 same for seven .once you have set 8, seven comes up on the next turn!by pass 6 and 3

what is the fix for the chirp. I do believe the cause is one of the lifters rotating in its bore due to sheared locating pin. What is the torque on the injector hold downs,jake hsng & box. Unit also has intermittent loss of power & blueish white smoke pours out. I suspect bad o-rings on injector can cause this, yes?

Bro your wasting time doing a valve set Yes Do the injector orings then pull the pan and look at the cam these Engines are time tested unlike the volvo mp engine they do certain things make certain noises this is a classic lifter chirp by what you discribe!

50 pounds injectors 20 pounds or so on the lids 45 to 55 0n the jakes But don't bother putting any of it on till you check the cam!

I only takes a half hour to pull the pan down worth the time as far as Im concerned!

You will have to remove the Jake Brake assemblies and the spacers to remove the injectors. The setting for the Jake should be .021".

Bro you need to address the churp sound before going after the valve set pull the pan and check the cam!That churp is likly a lifter or cam failing they don't always fail on an injection lobe!Injector orings can leak yes that is likly your leak!

Kingpin wear is measured with a dial indicator at the top and bottom of the spindle, parallel to the axle against the bushing/bearing bore. For a Mack FAW axle the total indicator travel (measurement from top bore plus measurement from bottom bore) should not be more than .015. I think for Rockwell/Meritor and Eaton axles the specification is .012"

By DOT limits here your allowed 3/16 at the bottom of the wheel tipping it with a bar! I would be more inclined to say 1/8 to be the maximum! Bare in mind to much wear can create unwanted tire wear!

94 ROLL OFF WITH T2060 TRANY WHAT IS THE CORRECT PROCEEDURE FOR SHIFTING FROM LOW TO HI RANGE ALLWAYS GRINDS .

Pretty much any range type trans you want to PRE SELECT the range the split is another story the split needs a low to no torque situation to work ,

Hello all

I went to the valve repair shop. They figured they could repair the head. After looking at it and magna fluxing it he found a crack between the two valves. The enginge must have got hot(not on us)and cracked the valve seat. Or the injection tube leaked and caused it.

Does anyone have a used head out there ?

The truck model number is: RWS721LST

serial number is: 1M1V121Y8BH054234

engine number is: EM9-400

It is a 1980 SuperLiner.

Can't seem to find any in Saskatchewan. We live north of where Montana and North Dakota meet.

Its too good of a old truck just to park.

Cheers

Byron Skjerdal

The engine must have got hot(not on us)and cracked the valve seat. (NOPE its was a fairly comon thing ) Just happens!

and usually the same way every time shut the engine off everything is fine ,Start the engine up Bang Bang Bang!

anyway .As Glenn pointed out ,you do have 3 more heads to possibly do, But if you need a good runner we have a few!

We just tore down a v8 got lots of parts Might even scare up a piston ,Phone Gary At Nanaimo Mack ( Vancouver Island)

1 250 758 0185 phone tommoro Gary is not here Fridays!

He'll hook ya up ! Tell em Fred sent ya!

Electrical on that yellow stuff sure can be a PITA!!!!!

We have a lot of trouble with wiring harnesses where they flex at the articulation point on the front end loaders.

Things on the front half of the machine quit working, and 9 times out of 10, that's where the problem is!

Woo hoo got the wheels turnin now !What diffrence can actualy go some where with out getting stuck now!

It looks like there was plenty of valve/piston contact. You might want to check the rod and make sure it isn't bent.

Usually this dosent bend the rod !But a good check, Also Post a picture of the liner when ya get time!Don't pull it yet! If its just a farm truck to haul from the feild to the barn you might want to just fuss up the liner with a hone and slam a used piston and head on.