fjh

yes it is, along with the married power steering pump. are the accessory drives the same bolt pattern, size, etc.?

The compressors are diffrent but some have provision for the steering pump!the oil feed tube on the 7 is bigger than the E six.

The O.P. said:

The E7 mechanical engines have the compressor in the same place as the E6 - buried down on the right rear.

HK

His e6 compressor accesory is not direct swap over thou!Also the power steering pump mounts on the front on some models lots of little things to think about is all!As long as the e7 has all of the above bolted to it .he will have somthing to work with!

not to worried about the little stuff. I have all winter to work the glitches out. mostly concerned with physical dimensions. dont want to cut firewall out or have to move radiator. Thanks for your help. Love this site.

No fire wall cut!The front mount compressor and the water pump will be your main stumbles!

also the jake puts the valve covers real tight to the heater hoses!that again is simple stuff!

Physicly pretty much the same depending on what truck the engine is coming from!

First big problem you may encounter is the front mount.RS is cradle mounted on the front cover!The e7 has a bolt on mount!

compresors differ sum .Water pump s differ from model to model!

With out setting em side by side !I'd be sceptical anything is possible with a little time thou!

I could for see lots of little and some big glitches!The RS did come with a 4 valve e6 at one point just before they did away with the model!

I am one who like no noise at all and i like to use the jake where ever with out having the fear of a ticket or botheren any one. I think it is very childess in a grown man to wake up every one in town with jakes when all it is being dont for is to say ha guys look at me. I have listen to engines run all my live and am hard hearing over the rackety and dont need any more of it.What i do like is hear a engine run under load with a short muffler and long tail pipe but can live with out that for the sake of my ears. So much for that and that is free my 2 cents worth. glenn

Glenn I'm with ya pal!

One exception thou!I like the sound of a V8 pulling, straight pipe or not!

Kind of a locamotive sound to it! Real powerful throb!

Is it ok to straight pipe a 2004 cxn 613 with a 427? What i mean by "is it ok" is will it hurt the motor or anything like that. thank you

No problem!We have done several with no ill effects!

Hello again, have another quick possibly simple question. Can anyone tell me the valve order on a e7 350? trying to run the rack and just want to make sure i get em all right. i believe it is I-E-E-I-E-E-I from the front of the head? but knowing my luck probably wrong. any help would be greatly appreciated

I beleive you are correct if in doubt I beleive it cast into the head in the bottom if you look closely below the rocker shafts!

Start with pressure testing the air/air cooler and all hoses up to and including the head with 25 psi and you may find some leaks. If you dont have the equipment then take to some one who has and if they or you cant get the valves to seal in all cylnders then turn engine slow untill you pressure comes up. There will be a place were all cylinders will have intakes or exhausts valves closed. Some times you will find intake gaskets leaking as well as the air compressor hose leaking. Dont let some one tell you it want work.

There will be a place were all cylinders will have intakes or exhausts valves closed.

Some people would call you nuts for saying that, but you and I know better don't we!

I have always heard that the squeaky wheel get the grease. If you are having trouble now, imagine what will happen when the warranty expires. Document every compliant, insist on having each and every one listed on a work order, and insist on a copy of the finished work order. Even if they say something is normal, or they can't find a problem. Get it all in writing, and save it all. Then if the sucker hand grenades two days after warrant runs out, you may have enough leverage to get something done.

Very good advice!

Play the game corectly and you will always have a wild card !

after warrenty care is called policy adjustment!Keep track of every exhast gasket job every turbo that blows ect!Its all ammo!But don't forget this engine is an inherited problem in Volvos Eyes!A Mack made problem not a Volvo made problem.The engine refinements are getting slim on the Mack built stuff!The new gen Mack /Volvo Stuff Will get the full atention from the audiance.IF you squeal long and hard they may even talk you into a new gen truck for not much more money!The MP engines seem to be reliable for the most part as well as getting Better fuel economy .Somthing to think on!

The dealer should call in to Mack and see if any new updated downloades/software are available. This is the first thing we always do when checking for low power. We have alot of issues with incorrectly speced trucks(wrong gear ratios and tire sizes). This can throw the truck out of its tourque curve and HP curve and some ASET engines are picky about that. Is the engine a 460P or 460E? Does the dealer have a dyno? If all else fails call Mack and complain 1-800-866-1177 and keep complaining. We are a dealer and when we had issues with trucks that we could not fix, we call our DSM (distric service manager)and a Mack Engineer and they get us help or info for the problem. We dont always have the answers but we know who to call that does. The interface for the lap top is around $1000 and the software is about $550-650

If all else fails call Mack and complain 1-800-866-1177 and keep complaining.

WHAT HE SAID!

have you checked the fan clutch sounds like thats the problem or the water pump is going out

Thermal

brings up a good point before jumping head first into my theroy .

Plug off the bleed hole in the waterpump case ,see if that makes a diffrence.

and make sure the fan is working correctly !AND make sure there are no air controled water shut offs in the bunk these can put air into the coolant system at odd times faking a persons diagnosus.

As for my theroy these engines had problems with low liners at 460 horse power!

What was good enough for 350 turns out is too low for 460.19 thou is low spec 28 thou is high

spec for liner protrution ,an engine that is set at 460 and has low spec liner protrution has a good chance of havig head gasket problems (symtoms like yours )A water pump sucking air can cause this as well as over heatwill also cause it! You need to check the cheap and easy stuff first!

AS TITLE SAYS ON MY 97 CH613. I WAS WOUNDERING IF SOMEONE HARE CAN CONFIRM IF I'M RIGHT OR WRONG OR, IF THERE IS A OTHER SOLUTION TO THIS PROB THAT IS NOT TOO EXPENSIVE. WHEN TRUCK IS IDLE AT 600 FOR MORE THEN 5 MIN IT PUSHES ANTIFREEZE OUT TO TOP TANK THEN IT GOES TO THE OVERFLOW TANK AND FINALLY SHOOTS OUT THRU A SMALL HOLE IN PLASTIC CAP. WHEN I IDLE AT 1000 AND ABOVE OR JUST DRIVE IT, THEN I NEVER HAVE A PROBLEM WITH OVERHEATING NOR LOOSING ANTIFREEZE. I HAVE REPLACED A WATER COOLER, A TOP TANK CAP, TOOK A THERMOSTAT OUT, FLUSHED A SYSTEM AND CHECKED A RADIATOR FOR LEEKS. EVERYTHING IS NORMAL, THE ONLY THING THAT I HAVE NOT DONE IS THE HEAD GASKET. IF THERE IS OTHER WAY OF FIXING IT WITHOUT REPLACING A HEAD GASKET THEN PLEASE HELP.

I DON'T HAVE A TIME AND MONEY TO INVEST IN THIS TRUCK AT THIS TIME, IT DRIVES NORMAL WHEN RPM'S ARE ABOVE 1000.

THANKS, RAF.

Sorry man! head gaskets MIGHT fix it for while low liners is most likly .

DO YOU KNOW IF I CAN USE IT ALSO ON E7-454? IT'S A 18 SPD MACK TRANS. I HAVE ANOTHER TRUCK THAT HAS OTHER PROBLEMS BUT THIS COULD BE AN IMPROVEMENT TO IT.

IF NOT THEN I'LL ASK THEM ABOUT IT.

THANKS, RAF.

Is The 454 ETECK ?

Doubt it!

The fuel preasure valve will not work on non eteck!straight pump 454 only needs 30 psi.

As for the 460

If the injector thing don't work, With pyro temps like that I beleive you are chasing a lack of air problem.bypass the drier.If that don,t fix it replace the turbo!

I'M ONLY GETTING SMOKE WHEN SHIFTING GEARS. MY FUEL PREASURE IS AT IDLE 80 AND RADDLE 90%. I HAVE CHECKED AT MACK SERVICE. THEY SAY, IT WAS NORMAL. MY PYRO WHEN PULLING FOR MORE THEN HOUR IS ABOUT 1200-1400 WHEN IT CLIMBS IS ABOUT 1600

THANKS, RAF

thous are high temps!

air filter is a good check!

Are the mechanics preasure testing the whole engine for leaks or just the after cooler?

The compressor is turbo charged ,you can loose boost out the air drier seen that happen on this era of truck more than once.!!

Have em by pass the air drier see if the problem goes away!

Make sure there testing the whole engine!leaksat the intake manifold are also comon!

i have also seen turbos bad right out of the box!

you need to start from the begining .

If the guys are just testing the cooler by caping both ends there missing the rest of the engine!

they need to be putting air to the turbo side of the aftercooler right thru the engine!

Does the engine smoke under load?If not!

What is the fuel preasure!The boost should be above 30 prefer 35

And clean exhast and aprox 1000 or below on the pyro.

If you have a low pyro reading its not a boost leak. it may be a fuel preasure problem!

Well you got some of this correct.

Yes, Cat is getting out of selling engines to OEM's and selling a vocational truck of it's own.

Yes, Cat did sign in June a MOU with International

But, It will be a Cat designed truck, not a badged International Truck. It will be unique, and while Cat yellow is a great color the trucks will come in many colors.

One more thing, you'll buy this truck at your local Cat dealer.

So this will mean everything on the truck will be built with 1 inch plate and 3/8 and 1 inch bolts!

I heard a few months ago about a Cat branded truck, canot remember where i read it. wonder what engine they plan on using maybe International / MaxForce engine??????

Betcha!

Heard a rumor today that Cat May be Building there own construction truck to compete with the rest of us building trucks for the construction work!

any thoughts on this!Varifing the roumor???

A cat / binder colaboration!

Ya well don't get too comfee yet, Mack will get the axle after they finish ruining the reputation.the V people are working hard at it!Don't be too surprized if it happens!

What model of truck is it in?Just poping out the floor pan May not work in your application!

If its an rd or rw it is not a nice thing to do!You need to loosen the cab mount on the tube crossover at th rear of the cab if it is an air ride cab you need to take the shocks loose at on end!

I hope that didnt crack the flange on the liners. glenn

I think it will be fine Glenn!As I explained we had this happen once with a head gasket set that had fire rings doubled up on one head there was no ill effects from it! it had been torqued down and all as well!

I haven't had chance to work on the fire ring mystery until this afternoon. With the information you provided, the sleeve just didn't look right. Well guess what... the original fire rings were still in place. The guy I hired originally to do the work never pulled the rings and installed new ones on top of the old. No wonder the head gasket wouldn't seal. Even though this is my first encounter with cylinder sleeves and fire rings, boy, do I feel like an idiot. Thanks again for the help you provided. Your comments and suggestions helped me better understand what to look for. Brian

Well done bro at least ya got to the bottom of things.

That is the later block because the first block had a cast iron tube which was part of the block and it would crack and let oil leak out and there was a tube that could be installed from the top to repair and then the later block had a replaceable tube that come in from the top but never did see one replaced. That may be too old for your mack dealer to help you with but i just dont know who would have a replacement tube and tool for it. That tube transferes oil to the heads that you see. You may need a engine . I would heat that area with a torch some and take a another look and see it it is were the tube come down out of the block but i still dont know were you will find a repair for it.If you find for sure were it is coming from call these guys because they did alot of block repairs but have gone to larger engines but some one there can help you as far as info on the repair method. 918 4461828

http://www.memorialmachine.com/mm/

I have never seen one of these leak before so Glen's solution is your only option!

Thanks for the replys -

We pulled the heads again. How can I tell which set of rings I need. I looked at the liners and I can't tell by looking what type of fire rings are required (I am going to get a magnifying glass today to see if it helps). I checked the rings that came in the package and they are all the same. If a liner did get dislodged, how can I check them? Wish I had all the old parts that were originally pulled off to compare with new but, the guy who did the work originally tossed them in the trash.

No, he isn't my son in law...

Thanks again for all the help,

Brian

When you pulled the heads the fire rings looked to be in the correct location right?

can you post a picture of the top of the liner ?If you look at the top of the liner does it look as it could use the stepped ring?Is there an odvious step ?

If new liners were installed as the directions state the liner has one narrow high spot in at the middle of the outer flange That high spot has the same heigt either side of the ridge that ridge cuts its self into the ring as the head is tighted down !You'll notice there is grooves cut in the head as well make sure thous are clean.

Also check the heads for cracks at the ends near the freeze plugs.

If you get the new gaskets get them from a dealer have them pull up the tsb service buliten for the steped fire ring!

Damit this is a real pain wish this guy had left the heads alone there was no need to pull them!

When you get the new gaskets install them on shiney clean surfaces block and head I use hitack spay on both sides of the gasket as an extra safety but not nessary.Chances are because the job was so halfassed the first time once the gasket leaks like that its impossible to seal it properly!

If you could post a photo of the pasage that you are talking about it would be better for us to tell were it is coming from.If it is coming from above the cam it may be a headgasket or a crack in the block. I still remember some info on that engine but with out knowing which passage it will be hard. I would pull the rocker and push tubes and look down that way with a good light. If the side plates are leaking oil then it would be a good time to pull them and that way you may see were the leak is coming from. glenn

If its not a head gasket I beleive you'll find you have cavitated block not totaly un heard of on these older engines!Pull the side coves that should tell the tale!